.4WB  mn 


LIBRARY 

OF  THK 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 

Class 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN 


THE    GARDEN    LIBRARY 


Roses  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

By  MANY  EXPERTS 

Ferns  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

By  G.  A.  WOOLSON 

Lawns  and  How  to  Make  Them 

By  LEONARD  BARRON 

Daffodils-Narcissus  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

By  A.  M.  KIRBY 

Water-Lilies  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

By  H.  S.  CONARD  and  HENRI  Hus 

Orchard  and  Fruit  Garden 

By  E.  P.  POWELL 

The  Vegetable  Garden 

By  IDA  D.  BENNETT 


The  Flower  Garden 

A    MANUAL    FOR 
THE    AMATEUR    GARDENER 

By 
IDA  D.   BENNETT 

ILLUSTRATED 


NEW  YORK 

DOUBLEDAY,  PAGE  &  COMPANY 
1909 


tofflw  noon 

Copyright,   1903,  by 
McCLURE,   PHILLIPS  6f   CO 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.    THE   LOCATION    AND    ARRANGEMENT 

OF  THE  GARDEN  ....       3 
II.    SOILS         .         .         .         .  .     17 

III.  FERTILISERS     ..         .         .         .         .23 

IV.  THE     HOTBED,     COLD-FRAME     AND 

SAND-BOX   ....      ......     30 

V.    PURCHASING    OF  SEEDS      .         ,         .     41 

VI.    STARTING  SEEDS  IN  FLATS         .         .     48 

VII.    TRANSPLANTING  AND  REPOTTING       .     53 

VIII.    HOUSE-PLANTS  FROM  SEEDS       .         .     62 

IX.    OUTSIDE  WINDOW-BOXES  .         .88 

X.    VARIOUS  ANNUALS  FROM  SEED  .         .     98 

XL    VINES 128 

XII.    ORNAMENTAL  FOLIAGE  PLANTS  FROM 

SEED   .          .          .          .          .          .   141 

XIII.    BULBOUS     AND     TUBEROUS  -  ROOTED 

PLANTS        .         .  .         .   147 

XIV.    AQUATICS 165 

XV.    THE  CARE  OF  THE  SUMMER  ROSE-BED   173 
XVI.    THE  HARDY  LILY-BED     .         .         .179 


9.1  9/3  £; 


vi  Contents 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

XVII.    THE  CARE  OF  CANNAS,  CALADIUMS, 
DAHLIAS,     AND     OTHER    BULBS 
DURING  WINTER       .         .         .185 
XVIII.    HARDY    SHRUBS    AND    PLANTS    FOR 

FALL  PLANTING         .         .         .196 
XIX.    WINTER  PROTECTION       .         .         .  203 
XX.    THE    CARE    OF    HOUSE-PLANTS    IN 

WINTER    .....  208 
XXI.    COMMON    AND   ENGLISH    NAMES  OF 

FLOWERS  .          .          .          .          .217 
XXII.    BLOOMING      SEASON      OF     VARIOUS 

TREES,  SHRUBS,  AND  PLANTS     .  234 

XXIII.    A  CHAPTER  OF  ODDS  AND  ENDS    .  245 

XXIV.    A  CHAPTER  OF  DON'TS  .         .         .  253 

INDEX       . 259 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

Sweet    Alyssum     and     Golden     Saxatile     are 

desirable  for  Rockwork       ..     ; .:.«.-.     Frontispiece 

PAGE 

Ornamental  Grasses  and  Foliage  Plants  .  4 
Height  and  Season  of  Bloom  of  the  Different 

Perennials  .  .  .  .  .  i  5 

Plan  for  a  Hardy  Border  .  ..  \  *  .  12 

Plan  for  Rose-garden  and  Foliage-bed  .  .  13 
Manure  Water  Is  a  Good  Way  to  Apply  Animal 

Fertiliser  .  .  ,  .  .  .  28 
When  Plants  Appear  too  Thickly  in  Rows 

Transplant  .  .  .  .  .  ,  29 

A  Well-constructed  Hotbed  .  .  /  .  29 

Starting  Seeds  in  Flats  .  *  .  .  52 

Sifting  Loam  Through  a  Sieve  V  .  .  53 

Repotting  .  .  .  '.  .  .  60 
When  Two  or  Three  Inches  High — Transplant 

Carnations  into  Pots  .  .  .  V  61 

An  Easily  Made  Carnation  Support  ^  .  J;  61 
Injured  or  Faded  Leaves  Should  be  Removed 

at  once  .          .          .          .         T        .80 

vii 


vm 


Illustrations 


PAGE 

Outside  Window-boxes        .          .          .          *  81 
Boxes  in  which  Scythes  Are  Packed  Make  very 

Good  Window-boxes      ...         •         •  96 

Hanging-baskets  for  Windows      .         .         .  96 
Small  Water  Gardens          .          .          .         .97 

Cool,  Moist  Spots  between  Stones         .          .  .  98 

Dusting  with  Sulphur          .         .         .        ..  99 

Spraying  with  Bordeaux  Mixture          .          .  99 
Sow  Poppies  in  the  Perennial  Border  among 

the  late  Flowering  Plants        .          .          ,  no 

A  Dead  Tree  Draped  with  Vines          .          .  1 1 1 

Furnish  Support  for  Vines  to  Run  on             .  128 

Vine-covered  Shed      .         .         .         .          .  128 
Clematis    Paniculata     Blooms    when     most 

others  Have  Ceased       .         .         .         .  129 

Shift  into  Larger  Pots  as  Required       .          .  144 
Should  Bulb  Outgrow  Its  Quarters  Shift  into 

Pot  Two  Sizes  Larger     .       .          .         .  145 

Wild  Water  Flowers  for  Edging  Lily-pond   .  166 
Water-lilies  with  Background  of  Bamboo  and 

Native  Grasses  .  .  .  .  .  167 
A  Full-blown  Cat-tail  .  ,  .  .  170 
Native  Plants  Edging  a  Natural  Water  Garden  171 
A  Rose-covered  Building  .  .  .  .178 
A  Portion  of  the  Grounds  Protected  by  Shrub- 
bery Is  the  Place  for  the  Lily-bed  .  .  179 


Illustrations 


PAGE 

Turn  out  Ball  of  Earth  to  Ascertain  if  Pot 

Is  Filled  with  Roots  .  .  *  .  190 

Plants  for  Late  Winter  Blooming  Should  Be 

Brought  into  the  House  Before  Fall  *  191 


THE   FLOWER  GARDEN 


Chapter   ONE 

CJje  flotation  anti  Arrangement 
r  of  tf)e  <§arUen         I 

A  SOUTH  slope  is  the  ideal  situation 
for  a  garden,   since  it  insures  good 
drainage  and  the  greatest  amount  of 
sunlight.     The    garden   should   also 
be  open  to  the  east  and  west,  if  pos- 
sible; that  it  may  have  the  benefit  of  the  morning 
and  evening  sun.     Shelter  on  the  north  is  desirable, 
as  north  winds  are  disastrous  to  Roses  and  tender 
perennials.     Partial  shelter  on  the  west  should  be 
given   in  localities  where  the   prevailing   winds  of 
winter  are  from  that  quarter. 

The  south  side  of  a  building,  or  even  of  a  high 
fence,  with  trees  and  tall  shrubs  at  a  little  distance 
to  the  west,  is  best;  though  any  site  that  receives 
abundant  sunshine  through  the  morning  and  early 
afternoon  may  be  made  satisfactory  by  planting  trees 
and  shrubs  on  the  north  and  west. 

The  garden  should  always  be  at  the  rear  or  side 
of  the  dwelling,  never  in  front  or  along  the  street. 
The  reasons  for  this  are  obvious.  The  garden  proper 

3 


4  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

is  intended  to  furnish  cut  flowers,  to  provide  a  place 
of  experiment  with  new  varieties,  and  to  grow  hardy 
perennials  which  have  certain  seasons  of  bloom  and 
cannot  be  depended  upon,  at  all  times,  for  orna- 
mental effect.  One  should  feel  free  to  work  there 
unobserved  of  the  passer-by,  and  this  is  impossible 
in  a  garden  close  to  the  street. 

Again,  while  the  permanent  garden  is  beautiful 
in  itself,  it  is  not  suitable  for  the  lawn  and  greatly 
mars  the  effect  of  the  grounds.  Beds  of  ornamental 
foliage  plants — Cannas,  Ricinus,  Coleus,  and  the  like 
— appropriately  placed,  add  much  to  the  beauty  of 
a  well-kept  lawn,  but  should  be  carefully  considered 
in  relation  to  its  size  and  the  trees  and  shrubbery 
already  there. 

On  a  small  city  lawn  not  more  than  one  such  bed 
should  be  allowed.  On  a  large  lawn  three  will  give 
a  better  effect  than  a  great  number,  especially  if  care 
is  taken  to  have  them  all  visible  from  different  points 
on  the  lawn  and  from  the  house,  never  isolating  them 
by  so  placing  that  clumps  of  trees  or  shrubbery  in- 
tervene, but  using  these  rather  as  a  background  for 
the  beds. 

It  is  from  the  hammock  that  the  amateur  gardener 
will  most  enjoy  the  results  of  her  labour.  It  is  there 
she  will  find'  leisure  to  watch  the  growth  of  plants, 
to  compare  the  effect  of  different  varieties,  to  note 
where  she  may  improve  the  vista  by  a  different  ar- 
rangement next  year,  to  observe  the  effects  of  locality, 


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^ex"  'to 
2.  Fasonies  ZOU.TS  t&nffoutte  or 


Z.  White  ftBonre-s.    3.  Pink  Paeonres. 
5.  &srenn/a/  ffihx    **  Hardfy  Zs/Ses. 


KEY  TO  PLATE  I. 

GIVING  THE  HEIGHT  AND  SEASON  OF  BLOOM  OF  THE  DIFFERENT  PERENNIALS,  ETC. 


OUTER  CIRCLE. 
Pansies— all  summer. 

FIRST  CORNER  BED. 
A — Montbretias  in  corners,  scarlet  and  orange, 

2  to  3  feet — all  summer. 
B — Gladioli  in  centre,  in  variety,  3  to  4  feet — 

September,  October. 

C — Tuberoses,  3  feet — August,  September. 
Border  of  blooming   Oxalis,  pink  and  white,  6 

inches— all  summer 

CENTRE  BED  OR  MOUND. 
i — Dark  red  Peony,  2  feet — May. 
2 — White  Peony,  2  feet — June. 
3— Pink  Peony,  2  feet— June. 
4 — Large    flowered    perennial     Phlox — August, 
September,  October. 


xA— Auratum  Lily,  2  feet — August,  Septem- 
ber. 

x  B — Speciosum  Album,  2  feet— August,  Sep- 
tember. 

x  C— Melpomene,  2  feet — August,  September. 

x  D — Auratum. 

x  E — Longiflorum.  white,  2  feet — June. 

x  F — Rubrum,  2  feet — August. 

x  G — Candidum,  white,  3  feet — June. 

Border— Phlox  Subulata. 

REAR  CORNER  BEDS. 

North  Bed — Anemones,  Whirlwind  and  Queen 
Charlotte,  white  and  pink,  3  feet— Septem- 
ber. 

Border — Wood  Anemones. 

South  Bed— Asters.  2  feet — September,  October. 

Border — Auricula,  8  inches — May. 


one]  jlocatton  attti  Arrangement     s 

of  the  afternoon  and  morning  sun  and  all  the  pecu- 
liarities of  plant  growth  that  escape  her  when  busy 
with  trowel  and  watering-pot,  so  that  the  view  from 
it  should  be  first  consideration. 

A  very  good  arrangement  is  to  put  a  large  bed  of 
Ricinus  on  the  most  remote  space  of  the  lawn — four 
plants  in  the  centre  of  a  twelve-foot  bed — surrounded 
with  a  row  of  Salvia  splendens  edged  with  Little  Gem 
Sweet  Alyssum.  Nearer,  an  eight-foot  bed  of  the 
large-flowered  Cannas  may  be  introduced  and  edged 
with  Coleus  or  the  second  size  of  Caladiums,  while  a 
six-foot  bed  of  ornamental  grasses — Arundo  Donax, 
Erianthus  Ravennae,  Eulalia  gracillima  univittata — 
will  make  a  satisfactory  third.  Such  beds  are  rich  in 
tropical  effects  and  give  more  distinction  to  a  lawn 
than  any  other  class  of  plants. 

Where  there  is  an  ample  water-supply  these  beds 
may  be  elevated  a  few  inches  above  the  lawn  to  make 
them  more  conspicuous;  but  where  the  seasons  are 
hot  and  dry  and  water  must  be  carried  it  is  better  to 
set  them  slightly  lower  than  the  lawn,  so  that  all  the 
available  moisture  may  be  utilised.  A  few  inches  of 
margin  must  be  allowed  around  the  edges  of  beds 
on  the  lawn  so  that  the  mower  may  run  close  to  the 
beds  without  injuring  the  plants,  though  even  then 
it  will  be  best  to  use  the  lawn-shears.  Such  beds  call 
for  carefully  trimmed  lawns.  Unless  the  grass  can 
be  properly  cared  for,  it  is  better  to  exclude  flowers 
from  this  part  of  the  grounds  entirely,  as  it  is  time 


6  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

thrown  away  to  plant  flowers  which  will  presently  be 
hidden  by  tall  grass  and  weeds.  A  neglected  lawn 
involves  an  amount  of  labour  in  the  semi-annual  clean- 
ing of  spring  and  fall  out  of  all  proportion  to  the  re- 
sults, while  a  lawn  well  cut  and  raked  is  more  easily 
cared  for  with  each  recurring  year,  the  grass  growing 
clean  and  straight,  and  the  rake  and  mower  passing 
freely  and  easily  through  it. 

The  scheme  for  a  permanent  garden  must  be  de- 
cided by  the  size  and  shape  of  the  plot  of  ground  at 
command,  an  irregular  plot  sometimes  lending  itself 
to  more  graceful  arrangement  than  a  symmetrical  one. 
The  operation  of  laying  out  the  beds  will  be  the  same, 
whatever  the  shape.  Having  decided  the  boundaries 
of  the  garden  it  will  be  best  to  mark  the  outlines  by 
a  cord  attached  to  pegs  driven  into  the  ground.  The 
sod  should  then  be  removed  from  the  entire  area  by 
cutting  just  below  the  crown  of  the  grass.  Desirable 
arrangements  of  beds  are  shown  in  accompanying 
illustrations.  Two  and  one-half  or  three  feet  should 
first  be  allowed  for  walks.  The  beds  may  be  placed 
to  advantage  by  finding  the  centre  of  the  plot  and 
driving  there  a  stake  to  which  a  cord  is  loosely  at- 
tached. Mark  off  on  this  cord  half  the  diameter  of 
the  bed  desired,  for  centre  of  plot,  four,  five  or  six  feet 
— fasten  to  the  cord  at  this  point  a  sharp  stick  and 
describe  the  circle  on  the  ground.  In  this  way  the 
garden  walks  may  be  outlined  and  the  inner  and  outer 
circles  of  the  round  beds.  The  oval  beds  must  be 


one]  Dotation  anU  toangement    ? 

measured  off  and  defined  by  stakes  driven  into  the  ! 
ground.  The  width  of  the  beds  should  be  not  more 
than  can  be  easily  reached  across  for  weeding  and 
cultivating.  Where  the  soil  has  not  been  previously 
cultivated  it  must  be  spaded  at  least  two  feet  deep, 
and  thoroughly  pulverised.  All  roots  and  stones 
should  be  removed.  If  the  soil  is  clayey  or  gravelly 
it  will  be  best  to  remove  it  entirely  and  to  fill  in  with 
soil  better  adapted  to  the  growth  of  flowers.  Or  the 
surface  may  be  removed  for  several  inches  and  laid 
aside.  Then  the  poorer  subsoil  should  be  dug  out  and 
removed  and  the  surface-soil  replaced  in  the  bot- 
tom of  the  bed  with  a  liberal  quantity  of  old,  well- 
rotted  manure.  The  bed  should  then  be  filled  to  its 
original  level  with  leaf-mould  or  muck.  If  all  the 
original  soil  is  to  be  retained,  remove  the  top-soil  for 
top-dressing.  Spade  the  manure  into  the  subsoil  and 
replace  the  surface-soil.  In  ground  which  has  not 
been  cultivated  this  surface-soil  is  rich  in  humus  or 
leaf-mould,  which  furnishes  food  in  its  most  available 
form  for  the  young  plant,  and  should,  therefore,  be 
left  where  the  plant  can  use  it  and  not  be  turned  under 
as  is  usually  done.  Nature  never  turns  the  soil  upside 
down ;  nor  will  the  wise  gardener,  except  when  a  richer 
and  better  soil  is  to  be  added  or  when  it  is  necessary 
to  work  in  manure. 

In  making  beds  that  have  been  worked  before 
and  need  no  enriching,  excellent  results  may  be  se- 
cured by  pushing  a  long  spade  into  the  ground  the 


8  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

whole  length  of  its  blade  and  twisting  it  around. 
This  breaks  up  and  mellows  the  ground  more  effectu- 
ally than  turning  it  over,  while  it  leaves  the  good  soil 
on  top  where  the  young  plant-roots  can  get  it.  Later, 
when  the  plant  grows  sturdier  and  stretches  out  its 
roots  in  search  of  food,  the  manure-enriched  earth 
in  the  bottom  of  the  bed  will  attract  and  draw  them 
down  into  its  cool,  moist  depths,  away  from  the  heat 
and  drought  of  the  surface.  But  the  young  plants 
must  have  mellow,  nourishing  soil  from  the  start, 
or  they  will  perish  before  they  reach  this  store-house 
provided  for  the  mature  plant. 

Never  prepare  a  garden  by  turning  under  the  sod. 
I  am  well  aware  that  this,  together  with  turning  under 
the  surface-soil,  will  be  the  method  of  the  average 
man  who  has  had  some  experience  of  farming,  but 
the  flower-grower  cannot  always  follow  farming 
methods  with  safety. 

After  spading  the  beds  it  will  be  well  to  inclose 
them  with  some  such  permanent  material  as  brick, 
cement  curbing,  or  narrow  boards.  Four-inch  siding 
set  in  the  ground  an  inch  or  more,  and  held  in  place 
on  each  side  by  pegs  of  wood  (old  waggon  spokes, 
which  can  usually  be  found  at  the  blacksmith's,  are 
excellent  for  this),  make  the  cheapest  and  most 
quickly  constructed  inclosure,  and  may  be  quite  cov- 
ered with  such  border-plants  as  Dusty-miller  or  Phlox 
subulata.  The  boards  may  be  given  a  coat  of  dull- 
green  paint  or  shingle-stain  before  being  put  in  place. 


jLocatton  ant)  Arrangement    9 

The  permanent  garden  beds  should  have  some  such 
protection,  as  it  greatly  lessens  the  work  of  caring  for 
them.  Sod  borders  are  very  attractive,  but  involve 
an  amount  of  care  altogether  out  of  proportion  to 
the  effect,  as  they  must  be  kept  closely  shaved  and  the 
constantly  encroaching  roots  of  the  plants  must  be  as 
constantly  curbed.  This  is  also  the  case  with  grass 
walks,  attractive  to  look  at,  but  a  supreme  nuisance 
to  the  gardener.  Walks  of  gravel,  cinders  or  coal- 
ashes  are  preferable,  and  should  be  dug  deep  enough 
to  smother  out  all  weeds  in  the  soil.  If  coal-ashes  are 
used  the  paths  should  be  nearly  filled,  the  roughest 
part  raked  off  and  the  surface  gone  over  with  a  heavy 
roller.  If  left  unrolled,  however,  the  surface  will  be 
found  firm  and  hard  after  the  first  heavy  rain.  Very 
good  and  inexpensive  walks  are  obtained  in  this  man- 
ner. Walks,  of  whatever  kind,  should  never  be  hoed, 
and  the  weeds  must  be  removed  from  them  by  hand. 
Hardness  and  smoothness  are  the  requisites  of  a  good 
walk.  It  is  well  to  avoid  self-sowing  flowers  like 
Sweet  Alyssum,  or  Petunias,  near  the  inside  walks,  as 
they  come  up  by  thousands  in  the  spring  and  can  only 
be  removed  by  salting,  scalding  or  uprooting. 

The  beds  should  be  well  above  the  surface  of  the 
walks,  especially  those  containing  hardy  perennials 
like  Peonies  and  Lilies.  In  the  case  of  most  plants, 
water  standing  around  their  roots  in  winter  is  abso- 
lutely fatal. 

The  location  of  the   beds  and  their  consequent 


io  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

moisture  and  sunshine  must  determine  the  flowers  to 
occupy  them.  If  you  are  fortunate  enough  to  have  a 
corner  low,  damp  and  shaded  in  the  afternoon,  that 
is  the  place  to  set  out  the  beautiful  Japanese  Iris, 
Cypripedium  acaule  and  other  moisture-loving  plants, 
while  the  Gladiolus  may  be  given  a  prominent 
place  in  full  sunshine.  Asters  and  other  flowers  that 
do  not  bloom  until  fall  should  have  a  less  conspicuous 
place;  they  are  so  showy  that  they  will  not  fail  to 
attract  attention,  wherever  they  may  be  planted. 
Pansies  and  other  low-growing  plants  should  be  set 
out  in  the  bed  next  the  lawn.  The  general  effect  is 
finer  when  only  one  kind  of  flower  is  grown  in  a  bed, 
but  when  two  or  more  varieties  of  flowers,  harmonis- 
ing in  colour,  are  grown  together,  the  tallest  must  be 
placed  in  the  centre  and  the  others  grouped  according 
to  height.  Various  plants  may  be  used  as  edgings, 
due  consideration  being  given  to  the  plants  which  are 
to  fill  the  beds. 

A  mass  of  one  kind  and  colour  is  more  effective  than 
a  mixed  bed.  The  beginner  will  find  that  the  per- 
centage of  success  is  greater  in  growing  a  large  num- 
ber of  one  kind,  all  requiring  the  same  conditions  of 
soil,  moisture  and  sunlight,  than  in  trying  to  force 
plants  of  widely  different  habits  to  grow  under  the 
same  conditions.  Hardy  perennials,  however,  not 
many  of  which  deserve  an  entire  bed,  do  very  well 
with  several  varieties  in  the  same  long  bed  or  border, 
and  may  be  so  grouped  as  to  give  a  succession  of 


one]  notation  anti  Arrangement  « 

bloom  throughout  the  season.  A  raised  bed  of 
Peonies  interspersed  with  the  new,  large-blooming 
Phlox  and  bordered  with  Japan  Lilies  will  give  a  suc- 
cession of  flowers  from  May  to  October;  or  a  long 
bed  of  Hollyhocks,  or  Hibiscus  with  a  row  of  large- 
flowered  Phlox  in  front  and  edged  with  dwarf  Phlox 
Drummondii  will  give  months  of  lovely  bloom.  This 
last  combination  also  makes  a  serviceable  screen  be- 
tween the  vegetable  garden  and  the  lawn,  or  to  hide 
a  rear  fence. 

In  arranging  parti-coloured  beds  of  flowers,  due 
attention  must  be  paid  to  the  harmonising  of  tints. 
Do  not  combine  magenta  and  scarlet,  or  purple  and 
blue.  Separate  them  by  the  interposition  of  white — 
the  most  valuable  colour  in  the  garden,  as  it  not  only 
harmonises  all  colours  but  wonderfully  enhances  their 
brilliancy.  White  with  scarlet,  with  blue,  or  with 
yellow  is  always  good.  Lavender  and  heliotrope  are 
lovely  with  nearly  all  shades  of  scarlet,  rose  and  pink. 
Blue  flowers  planted  in  the  rear  of  the  garden  increase 
its  apparent  size,  while  white,  bright  yellow  and  scar- 
let, by  bringing  the  background  nearer,  decrease  it. 
Monkshood  and  the  tall  blue  Larkspur  are  excellent 
for  rear  beds. 

The  accompanying  diagrams  will  be  of  assistance  in 
planning  the  garden — not  so  much  in  supplying  plans 
to  be  followed  literally  as  in  suggesting  other  plans 
and  variations,  while  giving  practical  information  as 
to  number  of  plants  required,  their  distance  apart  and 


12 


The  Flower  Garden 


the  like.  Soil  and  other  details  will  be  treated  else- 
where. 

In  planning  a  shrubbery  (see  Plate  II.)  it  is  neither 
necessary  nor  desirable  to  use  boards  or  other  curbing 
for  the  beds,  but  the  turf  should  be  kept  neatly 
trimmed  and  cut.  A  plot  60  by  40  feet  or  more,  in- 
closing a  considerable  area  of  turf,  gives  room  for 
rustic  seats,  a  stationary  hammock,  and  a  tree  or  two. 
The  circle  in  the  border  greatly  increases  the  accom- 
modation for  plants  and  furnishes  an  ideal  spot  for 
Lilies.  The  "lily-pond  in  the  centre  will  be  discussed 
at  length  in  the  chapter  devoted  to  aquatic  plants. 

The  rather  complicated  design  in  Plate  III.  is  in- 
tended for  a  rose-garden  or  for  foliage-beds  on  a 
large  lawn.  It  is  not  at  all  difficult  to  construct,  and 
a  little  practice  with  paper  and  pencil  will  remove  any 
apparent  obstacle.  If  you  will  draw,  on  a  scale  of 
one  inch  to  a  foot  with  a  compass  a  succession  of 
circles  of  six,  eight  and  a  half,  twelve  and  a  half, 
fifteen  and  nineteen  inches,  respectively,  the  founda- 
tion of  the  plan  will  be  laid.  Now,  divide  the  fourth 
circle  into  fifths  and  draw  a  half  circle  4~|  by  14  feet 
or  inches  on  the  circle  of  each  fifth  by  placing  the 
point  of  the  compass  midway  between  the  fourth  and 
third  circle.  This  will  leave  a  crescent-shaped  bed. 
Mark  off  from  each  side  of  these  half  circles  or  cres- 
cents, on  the  space  between  the  third  and  fourth  circle, 
two  and  one-half  feet  for  paths.  Making  the  lines 
parallel  with  the  crescents,  the  remaining  spaces  will 


'^^i:  :fc  4  i  ivii';'iar «  a^fts.® 

,,,-^^^-,,  ^,-^11 


KEY  TO  HARDY  BORDER.     PLATE  II. 


Name  of  Plant. 


Color. 


Height. 
Feet,  Inches. 


Season  of  Bloom. 


Hypericum Yellow i  6 All  summer. 

Deutzia  Gracilis White i  8 May,  June. 

Lychnis  Rpseum Pink i  8 All  summer. 

Spiraea  Filipendula. . .    -...White i  o May,  June. 

Platycodon    Blue 2  o All  summer. 

Anemone  Whirlwind White 3  o September,  October. 

Spiraea  Anthony  Waterer Crimson 2  to  4  o May ;  sometimes  all  summer. 

White  Foxglove White 3  o All  summer. 

Scarlet  Lychnis Scarlet 3  o All  summer. 

White  Foxglove White 3  p All  summer. 

Lychnis  Splendens Red 3  o June,  July. 

White  Veronica White 2  o August,  September. 

Blue  Veronica Blue 2  o July,  August. 

Spiraea  Van  Houttei  ...    .    White 3  o May,  June. 

Monkshood  Fischeri Pale  Blue 4  o September.  October 

Hollyhocks  in  Var ...4105  o Summer,  fall. 

Monkshood,  Uncinatum Dark  Blue 4  o June,   August. 

Bocconia Cream .... 5  to  6  o J  uly,  August. 


i.  Tall  Shrubs. 


x  x    Hardy  Lilies. 


Low  Shrubs. 


3.  Herbaceous  Pereum. 
—  Edging  Plants. 


PLATE   III. 
PLAN  FOR  ROSE-GARDEN  AND  FOLIAGE-BED. 


flotation  anti  Arrangement  13 

form  triangular  beds,  that  for  convenience  may  be 
called  the  third  or  outer  row  of  beds. 

Now  if  radiating  lines  be  drawn  from  the  corners 
of  the  crescents  to  the  centre  of  the  plan  the  point 
where  they  cross  the  third  circle  will  be  the  upper 
corners  of  the  first  row  of  beds — the  lower  corners 
being  formed  by  the  point  where  the  radii  from  the 
centre  and  left  corners  of  the  crescents  cross  the  sec- 
ond circle;  the  third  and  second  circles  forming  the 
upper  and  lower  sides;  the  ends  being  formed  by 
curved  lines  drawn  from  the  upper  to  the  lower  cor- 
ners. Or,  having  completed  the  row  of  five  crescents 
and  five  triangular  beds,  mark  off  with  pole  or 
ruler  radiating  lines  from  the  corners  and  centre  of 
each  crescent  to  the  centre  of  plan ;  the  point  where 
these  radii  from  the  circle  of  crescents  cross  the  third 
circle  will  be  the  upper  corner  of  the  first  row  of  beds; 
the  lower  corners  being  formed  by  the  radii  from 
the  centre  and  left-hand  corner  of  crescents;  the  ends 
being  formed  by  curved  concave  lines  from  upper  to 
lower  corner — the  intervening  spaces  forming  paths. 

For  Laying  Out  the  Beds 

USE  a  long  pole  with  a  sharp  stake  passed  through 
a  hole  at  one  end  and  fastened  with  a  nail 
driven  through  it  horizontally,  so  that  it  can  turn 
easily,  with  a  number  of  holes  for  pegs  at  the  required 
distances — six,  eight  and  one-half,  twelve  and  one- 


14  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

half,  fifteen  and  nineteen  feet.  Drive  the  mov- 
able stake  firmly  into  the  ground,  and  do  not  remove 
until  the  work  is  finished.  Slip  the  sharp  mark- 
ing peg  into  the  hole,  which  it  should  fit  closely,  and 
mark  out  the  circles.  For  the  half  circles,  or  crescents, 
a  nine-foot  stick  laid  straight  across  the  edge  of  fourth 
circle  will  give  an  approximate  fifth,  the  loss  in  the 
curve  about  equalling  the  fractional  loss  caused  by 
multiplying  by  three  alone.  Drive  a  peg  with  a  stick 
or  string  attached  into  the  path  a  foot  inside  the  third 
line  and  mark  the  circles  on  it;  mark  the  paths  by 
lengthening  the  stick  or  string  two  and  a  half  feet  and 
drawing  sections  of  circles  on  each  side  of  the  half 
circles  from  the  fourth  to  the  fifth  circles.  Now  bring 
the  end  of  the  long  pole  to  the  left  corner  of  half 
circle  and  mark  the  radiating  lines  and  half  lines  to 
the  centre,  and  mark  off  the  first  row  of  beds  as  you 
did  on  paper.  In  this  way  almost  any  form  of  flower- 
bed may  be  laid  out.  The  following  diagrams  for 
foliage-beds  on  the  lawn  will  be  helpful. 

For  a  Twelve- foot  Foliage-bed 

ONE  Ricinus  in  centre ;  three  Ricini  four  feet  from 
first,  an  equal  distance  apart — or  about  eight 
feet.  Alternate  with  these  three  clumps  of  tall-grow- 
ing Cannas.  Surround  with  a  row  of  scarlet  Salvias, 
set  one  foot  from  edge  of  bed  and  twenty  inches  apart. 
Edge  with  Little  Gem  Sweet  Alyssum. 


one]  location  anti  ^rrangemetit  15 

Another  Twelve-foot  Bed 

ONE  Ricinus  in  centre,  surrounded  at  three  feet 
distance  by  six  of  the  largest  sized  Caladiums 
three  feet  apart.  The  third  row,  three  feet  outside, 
to  be  composed  of  low-growing  Cannas — Queen 
Charlotte,  Chicago,  Florence  Vaughan,  or  Papa — 
eighteen  inches  apart.  Edge  with  dwarf  Nastur- 
tiums. 

Nine-foot  Bed 

ONE  Ricinus  trimmed  in  umbrella  form — that  is, 
the  lower  leaves  removed  so  that  the  upper 
may  serve  as  a  shade  for  the  Cannas.  First  row,  six 
Allemannia  Cannas;  second  row,  twelve  inches  out- 
side, twelve  Burbank  Cannas,  fourteen  inches  apart; 
third  row,  twenty-five  Italia  Cannas,  fourteen  inches 
apart.  Edge  with  Coleus,  set  fifteen  inches  apart 

Nine-foot  Bed 

ENTRE  three  discolour  Cannas,  grouped  in  the 
corner.  First  row,  twelve  Black  Beauty  Can- 
nas, eighteen  inches  apart;  second  row,  eighteen 
inches  outside,  twelve  large  Caladiums,  twenty-seven 
inches  apart. 

Twelve-foot  Bed 

THREE  Ricini  in  group,  equal  distance  apart. 
First  row,  three  feet  out,  scarlet  Salvias,  twenty 
inches  apart;  second  row,  twelve  inches  out,  white- 


1 6  The  Flower  Garden 

flowered  Vincas,  twelve  inches  apart.  Edge  with  scar- 
let Phlox  Drummondii  or  blue  Tom  Thumb  Agera- 
tum,  six  inches  apart. 

Nine-foot  Bed  of  Ornamental  Grasses 

LARGE  clump  of  Arundo  Donax  in  centre.   First 
row,  three  feet  out,  three  Erianthus  Ravennae, 
six  feet  apart ;  second  row,  twelve  Eulalia  gracillima 
univittata,  two  feet  apart. 

Eight-foot  Bed 

A  LARGE  clump  of  Setaria  magna  in  the  centre. 
First  row,   Coix  lachryma,  eighteen    inches 
apart ;    second  row,  twenty  inches  out,  Pennisetum 
Ruppellianum,  eighteen  inches  apart. 

I  cannot  too  highly  recommend  the  planting  of 
ornamental  grasses  on  the  lawn.  They  are  exten- 
sively used  in  parks  and  in  other  public  grounds,  but 
not  nearly  so  extensively  as  they  should  be  on  private 
grounds.  Many  of  them  are  perfectly  hardy,  and 
once  established  grow  in  Jbeauty  from  year  to  year; 
others  in  the  Northern  States  may  be  easily  wintered 
in  the  cellar,  while  still  others  may  be  cheaply  and 
easily  raised  from  seed  each  year. 


Chapter  TWO 


IN  every  garden  the  matter  of  soil  is  of  first  im- 
portance.    In  case  of  an  outdoor  garden  the 
existing  conditions  will  largely  determine  the 
class  of  plants  to  be  grown. 
A  good  loam  —  that  is  a  non-coherent  mixt- 
ure of  clay  and  sand  with  a  proportion  of  such  de- 
cayed vegetable  matter  as  leaves  and  the  fibrous  roots 
of  grasses  —  is  the  best  garden  soil,  being  what  is 
termed  warm  and  early.    Soil  containing  a  good  pro- 
portion of  sand  is  warm,  while  a  preponderance  of 
clay  makes  what  is  known  as  cold  or  wet  soil. 

If  there  is  good  drainage,  cold  soil  can  be  rendered 
lighter,  sandier  and  more  friable  by  the  liberal  applica- 
tion of  manure,  which  in  two  or  three  years  will  quite 
change  its  character.  But  this  is  a  long  time  to  wait, 
and  to  get  quick  results  it  will  be  necessary,  after  lay- 
ing out  the  garden  and  outlining  the  beds,  to  remove 
the  earth  to  a  depth  of  twenty  inches  or  more,  filling 
in  with  soil  suitable  for  the  class  of  plants  to  be  grown 
in  each  bed.  In  the  beds  intended  for  Roses,  however, 
the  clay  may  be  left,  as  Roses  require  this  soil.  Where 

17 


1 8  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

it  is  not  present  it  should  be  supplied  and  added  to 
each  year,  as  the  heavy  manuring  which  Roses  require 
constantly  reduces  the  relative  proportion  of  clay. 
For  the  Pansy  bed  nothing  better  than  leaf-mould 
from  the  woods  can  be  procured.  For  this  bed  re- 
move six  or  eight  inches  of  earth,  spade  in  a  good 
supply  of  old,  well-rotted  manure  from  the  cow-stable, 
top-dress  with  several  inches  of  leaf-mould.  You 
will  have  a  bed  that  will  give  magnificent  Pansies  and 
few  weeds.  For  the  Salvia,  Canna,  Ricinus,  Caladium 
and  other  strong-growing  plants  no  soil  is  better  than 
the  muck  or  peat  of  swamps — soil  composed  of  partly 
carbonised  vegetable  matter  decomposed  by  the  action 
of  water.  Leaf-mould  consists  of  vegetable  matter 
which  has  decayed  without  being  submerged,  and  it 
usually  contains  a  liberal  quantity  of  sharp,  white 
sand,  to  which  it  owes  its  friable,  non-adhesive  char- 
acter. Leaf-mould  is  commonly  found  around  de- 
cayed stumps  and  in  hollow  places  in  the  woods,  where 
the  leaves  have  drifted  and  decayed.  It  is  ready  for 
immediate  use.  Muck  or  peat,  however,  which  is 
found  in  bogs  and  swamps,  is  unfit  for  garden  use 
when  freshly  dug — except  for  aquatic  plants — being 
tough  and  fibrous.  It  should  therefore  be  dug  during 
the  summer,  thrown  in  a  heap  and  left  for  the  winter 
frost  to  rot  and  render  tractable.  For  immediate  use 
the  best  method  is  to  place  it  in  a  deep  hole  in  the  bed 
and  cover  with  several  inches  of  loam,  or  old  muck. 
If  this  is  kept  worked  or  mulched  to  exclude  air  and 


Two]  §5>0tlfi  19 

retain  the  moisture  in  the  muck,  excellent  results  may 
be  secured.  The  bed  may  also  be  partly  filled  with 
muck  and  covered  with  loam,  the  whole  object  being 
to  prevent  the  muck  drying  out  into  hard  lumps,  as 
it  will,  when  green,  on  exposure  to  sun  and  air.  The 
following  spring  the  loam  may  be  spaded  into  the 
muck,  giving  a  warm,  mellow,  exceedingly  rich  soil 
that  will  grow  anything.  The  importance  of  starting 
out  with  good  soil  cannot  be  too  strongly  urged.  It 
seems  at  first  sight  to  call  for  a  considerable  expendi- 
ture of  time  and  money — especially  where  the  earth 
must  be  purchased  and  the  labour  paid  for — but  in  the 
long  run  it  is  a  decided  saving. 

With  unsuitable  soil  there  must  be  many  failures, 
resulting  in  loss  of  both  plants  and  seeds,  and  this  in 
itself  is  no  small  expense.  The  labour  of  caring  for 
such  a  garden  is  many  times  greater,  for  the  top- 
dressing  of  manure  required  produces  an  incessant 
crop  of  weeds,  which  must  be  removed,  not  once,  but 
many  times  during  the  summer,  while  beds  filled  with 
leaf-mould  or  muck  need  but  one  or  two  weedings. 
The  weeds  which  grow  naturally  in  these  soils  do  not 
flourish  in  the  open  ground.  A  few  Smartweeds  and 
Nettles  may  be  expected  in  the  one  case,  and  Violets 
and  Spring-beauties  in  the  other.  In  the  manured 
garden  soil  an  endless  procession  of  Purslane,  Malice, 
Ragweed  and  the  like  must  be  constantly  watched  for. 
The  presence  of  clay  and  gravel  in  the  soil  always 
renders  it  hard  and  given  to  caking,  necessitating  fre- 


20  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

quent  cultivation;  while  muck-beds,  after  the  pre- 
liminary spading  in  the  spring,  remain  free  and  mel- 
low throughout  the  season. 

Replacing  soil  presents  more  difficulties  to  city 
dwellers  than  to  those  living  in  the  country,  or  in  small 
towns,  but,  as  there  are  in  the  vicinity  of  most  of  our 
cities  rich  peat  lands,  it  ought  not  to  be  difficult  to 
obtain  one  or  two  loads  of  this  useful  material.  Near 
the  small  towns  are  always  to  be  found  farmers  who 
own  or  live  near  marsh-land,  and  can  supply  muck, 
especially  where  they  have  been  ditching.  A  good 
waggon-load  may  be  had  at  prices  ranging  from  fifty 
cents  to  two  dollars,  according  to  the  distance  to  be 
hauled.  The  cost  in  the  city  would,  of  course,  be 
much  greater. 

It  is  well  for  the  amateur  gardener  to  learn  early 
in  her  experience  to  keep  her  eyes  open  to  all  things 
pertaining  to  the  success  of  the  garden.  When  driv- 
ing, note  the  marsh-lands  easily  accessible  from  the 
highway,  especially  where  they  have  been  ditched 
or  partially  reclaimed,  and  interview  the  owner  or 
tenant.  In  the  dull  season  on  the  farm  the  owner  of 
such  soil  may  be  glad  to  earn  an  extra  dollar  or  two, 
and  it  may  also  be  suggested  to  the  farmers'  boys, 
who  have  marsh-  and  wood-lands,  that  they  may  earn 
pocket-money  by  calling  on  people  known  to  be  cul- 
tivating flowers  or  building  new  homes,  to  solicit  their 
orders.  Many  people  who  grow  flowers  do  not  know 
where  to  apply  for  earth,  and  an  advertisement  in  a 


Two]  gJOUS  2I 

local  paper  would,  doubtless,  prove  advantageous  to 
customer  and  purveyor.  On  hillsides  along  the  road, 
and  places  which  the  rain  has  washed,  one  may  gather 
quantities  of  pure  white  or  grey  sand  for  potting. 
Yellow  sand  is  not  suitable  for  such  use,  as  it  contains 
much  clay  and  cakes  badly  after  watering,  while  the 
white  or  grey  sand  remains  fine  and  loose. 

Leaf-mould  is  not  so  readily  procurable,  as  it  must 
be  gathered  from  suitable  patches  through  the  woods, 
and  the  farmers  do  not  like  to  bother  with  it.  Besides, 
they  are  likely  to  dig  up  much  undesirable  under-soil. 
It  is  better  to  go  one's  self  for  this.  A  still  better  way 
is  to  make  your  own  leaf-mould.  Thus:  when  sod 
is  removed  from  the  ground  for  any  purpose,  shake 
out  the  fine  soil  that  adheres  to  it  for  future  use;  or 
slice  off  the  fine  roots  with  a  sharp  knife  just  below  the 
crown  of  the  grass.  This  is  known  as  fibrous  loam, 
and,  in  combination  with  leaf-mould,  old  manure  and 
fine,  sharp  sand,  makes  the  very  finest  potting  soil. 
Throw  the  tops  of  the  sods  in  a  heap  in  some  out-of- 
the-way  corner  and  add  the  rakings  of  the  yard  in 
fall  and  spring,  all  weeds  pulled  during  the  summer, 
all  vegetable  refuse,  potato-parings,  apple-peelings, 
corn-husks,  and  berry-hulls — anything  that  has  vege- 
table matter  and  will  decay.  All  dish-water  and  slops 
that  are  not  needed  on  the  garden  may  be  thrown  on 
the  pile,  which  should  be  turned  over  occasionally 
during  the  winter.  By  the  following  spring  you  will 
have  the  finest  kind  of  leaf-mould.  Not  all  of  the  pile 


22 


The  Flower  Garden 


will  have  decayed,  but  along  the  sides  and  underneath 
it  will  be  found  ready  for  use.  Add  to  it  every  bit  of 
available  vegetable  matter  during  the  year,  including 
the  annual  flowers  pulled  up  after  their  season  of 
bloom,  the  tops  of  such  root-plants  as  Cannas,  Cala- 
diums,  Gladioli,  etc.,  and  you  will  soon  have  a  supply 
quite  adequate  to  the  needs  of  an  ordinary  garden. 
Where  there  are  water-works  the  hose  may  be  turned 
on  frequently  to  hasten  decomposition.  If  it  is  im- 
possible to  replace  all  poor  soil  in  the  garden  with 
better,  by  the  addition  of  leaf-mould  and  manure, 
much  may  be  accomplished  in  the  way  of  building  up 
the  old  and  rendering  it  suitable. 

If  the  plot  to  be  used  can  be  ploughed  up,  well 
manured,  and  sown  to  clover,  the  clover  turned  under 
in  the  fall,  a  good  top-dressing  of  manure  given, 
and  the  whole  turned  again  in  the  spring,  the  soil 
should  be  in  good  garden  condition. 

Where  the  soil  is  a  good,  warm  loam  the  addi- 
titon  of  fertilisers  will  always  give  excellent  results, 
though  there  is  the  disadvantage  of  weeds  and  extra 
cultivation  to  consider.  The  first  cost  of  suitable 
earth  is  great,  but  it  pays  in  the  end  in  the  saving  of 
fertilisers,  labour,  expensive  seeds  and  flowers. 


Chapter   THREE 

^fertilisers 


FERTILISERS  in  the  form  of  animal  ma- 
nures, chemicals  or  vegetable  matter  come 
next  in  importance  to  a  good  soil.    Horse, 
cow,  sheep,  and  poultry  droppings  are  the 
cheapest  and  most  direct  in  results.     Of 
the  four,  cow  manure  is  probably  the  best  for  the 
majority  of  plants,   especially  Pansies,   Iris,  Violets, 
Ferns  and  others  which  love  a  cool  soil.    Cow  manure 
is  known  as  a  cool  manure,  and  is  suitable  for  a  warm 
or  sandy  soil.    Horse  manure,  which  is  more  heating, 
especially  when  from  young  stock,  is  better  on  cold 
or  clayey  soil,  as  it  has  the  effect  of  breaking  up  the 
adhesiveness  of  the  clay  and  promoting  the  formation 
of  sand.    Hen  manure  is  very  warm  and  is  therefore 
most  suitable  for  cold  soils.     Sheep  manure  is  espe- 
cially  desirable   for   Roses   and  house-plants,   about 
one  part  manure  to  six  of  earth  being  the  propor- 
tion. 

Good  results  may  be  obtained  by  the  use  of  any  or 
all  of  these,  if  in  the  proper  condition  and  judiciously 


24  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

applied.  Manure  is  in  proper  condition  when  it  has 
passed  completely  through  the  heating  or  fermenting 
stage.  Fresh  manure  should  never  be  placed  where 
it,  or  the  water  that  leaches  from  it,  can  possibly 
come  in  contact  wth  the  plants;  manure  should  be 
six  months  or,  better  still,  a  year  old  before  being 
used.  Old  and  well-rotted  manure  has  much  the 
appearance  of  rich,  black  earth,  and  is  readily  assimi- 
lated by  the  plants.  It  should  be  fine  and  free  from 
such  rough  litter  as  corn-stalks,  cobs,  and  long  straws, 
and  should  be  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  soil.  As 
manure  is  full  of  the  seeds  of  weeds  and  grasses,  it 
is  better,  when  applying  it  in  the  spring,  to  remove  a 
portion  of  the  top-soil  and  work  the  manure  into  the 
subsoil  by  spading,  and  then  to  return  the  top-soil. 
This  will  prevent  their  germination  and  save  a  great 
deal  of  weeding  during  the  summer. 

Manure  that  retains  its  original  form  is  too  fresh  to 
use  and  should  be  thrown  in  a  heap  and  frequently 
forked  over  to  hasten  decomposition.  It  will  be  fit 
by  another  season,  but  older  stuff  must  be  procured 
for  present  use.  Where  there  is  room  it  is  a  wise 
provision  to  keep  a  pile  of  manure  from  year  to  year, 
in  order  to  avoid  the  inconvenience  of  looking  for  it 
when  you  need  it.  No  better  expenditure  can  be 
made  by  the  gardener  than  in  purchasing  several  loads 
of  old  manure,  when  it  is  discovered  in  some  neigh- 
bouring barn-yard.  If  one  has  no  supply  and  must 
purchase,  the  matter  should  be  attended  to  in  the  fall 


Three] 


at  latest,  to  allow  ample  time  for  saving  it.  Farmers 
usually  draw  the  manure  on  the  land  as  it  accumulates, 
so  that  it  is  difficult  to  obtain  in  the  spring. 

Ashes  contain  a  certain  amount  of  phosphates, 
which  tend  to  sweeten  the  soil.  They  are  also  bene- 
ficial in  increasing  the  strength  or  stiffness  of  the 
stalks,  and  for  this  reason  are  valuable  for  Aster  and 
Gladiolus  beds;  they  should  never  be  mixed  with 
manure,  as  is  frequently  done,  but  should  be  strewn 
over  the  surface  of  the  soil  after  the  other  fertilisers 
are  worked  in.  Ashes  mixed  with  manure  release  the 
ammonia  of  the  latter,  depriving  it  of  one  of  its  most 
valuable  properties.  Ammonia  itself  is  not  a  fer- 
tiliser but  a  stimulant,  creating  in  the  plant  a  desire 
for  the  food  stored  up  in  the  manure  —  in  other  words, 
an  appetiser.  Plants,  like  people,  will  not  eat  unless 
they  have  an  appetite,  and  manure  mixed  with  ashes 
is  poorer  and  much  less  valuable  in  every  way  to  the 
farmer  and  gardener.  Soot  is  another  excellent  chem- 
ical fertiliser,  adding  much  to  the  richness  of  colour 
in  both  flower  and  foliage.  Apply  either  dry  or 
mixed  with  the  surface-soil,  or  in  the  form  of  a  tea 
made  by  pouring  water  over  the  soot  in  a  vessel. 
Draw  off  the  liquid  after  the  mixture  has  settled  and 
apply  it  around  the  roots  of  the  plants,  taking  care 
that  it  does  not  touch  the  foliage.  It  is  especially 
good  for  Pansies  and  Roses. 

Manure-water  is  a  good  way  to  apply  animal  fertil- 
iser, as  it  is  fairly  free  from  the  seeds  of  weeds,  which 


26  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

constitute  the  chief  drawback  to  the  solid  form.  To 
prepare  it  take  a  water-tight  barrel  or  half-barrel  and 
put  a  spigot  in  the  side  near  the  bottom.  Place  three 
or  four  inches  of  clean  straw  in  the  barrel,  letting  it 
come  well  up  above  the  spigot,  then  fill  half  full  of 
manure.  It  is  not  necessary  that  the  manure  should 
be  so  very  old;  it  needs  only  to  have  passed  the  fer- 
mentation period.  Fill  the  barrel  with  water.  Fit  a 
tight  cover  over  it  and  it  is  soon  ready  to  use.  As 
long  as  the  liquid  runs  the  colour  of  coffee  or  a  strong 
tea  the  manure  will  not  need  renewing,  and  more 
water  may  be  added  from  time  to  time,  but  when  it 
shows  signs  of  exhaustion  empty  the  barrel,  put  the 
refuse  on  the  compost  heap  and  fill  the  barrel  as 
before.  If  the  liquid  is  to  be  used  on  pot-plants  it  will 
be  better  to  use  boiling  water  in  the  barrel  to  destroy 
the  eggs  and  chrysalis  of  the  white-worms  and  other 
larvae  that  infest  the  manure;  or  add  a  half  tea- 
spoonful  of  Paris  green  to  the  water.  The  first 
drawings  from  the  barrel  should  be  well  diluted 
before  using,  especially  when  applied  to  dry  soil. 
If  hen  manure  is  used,  it  should  be  made  much 
weaker  than  other  manures,  as  it  is  very  heating  and 
likely  to  burn  the  roots  of  plants.  A  convenient  way 
to  handle  the  manure  barrel  is  to  carry  a  watering-pot 
of  water  to  the  barrel  each  time,  emptying  it  in  at  the 
top  and  drawing  off  a  corresponding  amount  at  the 
spigot — in  this  way  the  barrel  is  kept  constantly  full 
and  extra  steps  saved.  Liquid  manure  may  also  be 


Three]  jferttltsets  27 

prepared  by  filling  a  pail  half  full  of  manure,  adding 
boiling  water,  and  dipping  off  the  liquid  when  the 
sediment  is  settled. 

After  a  heavy  rain  there  will  often  be  a  pool  in  some 
corner  of  the  barn-yard  where  sufficient  liquid  manure 
may  be  dipped  up  to  fill  a  barrel  or  hogshead.  Where 
the  barn-yard  is  paved  with  cobble-stones — as  all  barn- 
yards should  be,  for  health  and  cleanliness — a  catch- 
basin  may  be  easily  arranged  which  the  natural  slope 
of  the  land  will  fill  when  it  rains.  This  will  more  than 
pay  for  the  trifling  outlay  for  its  construction,  as  it 
need  only  be  a  depression  in  the  soil,  covered  with 
cement.  Even  stiff  clay  will  answer.  It  is  surprising 
how  carelessly  farmers  let  such  valuable  property  go 
to  waste  while  they  buy  load  after  load  of  manure  at 
the  stables  in  town  and  haul  it  long  distances.  The 
yield  of  the  strawberrry-  and  asparagus-beds  alone 
would  be  sufficiently  increased  to  pay  for  such  a  catch- 
basin  many  times  over. 

Soapsuds  furnish  another  excellent  fertiliser,  and 
every  drop  of  water  from  the  wash-room,  bed- room 
and  kitchen  should  be  saved  and  applied  around  the 
roots  of  plants — especially  Roses,  Dahlias,  and  vines, 
which  never  seem  to  get  enough  of  either  moisture  or 
nourishment.  Slop-water  should  not  be  put  on  the 
foliage  of  plants,  as  it  leaves  a  scum  that  is  difficult 
to  get  rid  of. 

A  very  good  substitute  for  commercial  bone-meal 
xiiay  be  manufactured  at  home  by  saving  all  tne  Done* 


28  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

from  the  kitchen,  throwing  them  into  a  stone  jar, 
covering  them  with  strong  lye,  and  allowing  them  to 
remain  until  soft  enough  to  be  pulverised  and  dug 
into  the  soil.  The  lye  that  remains  may  also  be  ap- 
plied to  the  soil  after  being  diluted  with  water.  Blood 
obtained  at  the  slaughter-house  is  an  excellent  fertil- 
iser, containing  much  easily  assimilated  plant  food  in 
a  soluble  form.  Feathers  contain  much  valuable  ma- 
terial in  the  way  of  phosphates,  but  are  not  suitable 
for  the  annual  beds.  They  may  be  applied  to  shrubs 
and  hardy  perennials  by  digging  them  into  the  ground 
at  a  little  distance  from  the  plants,  where  the  roots 
will  reach  out  and  find  them.  Hoof-parings  from  the 
blacksmith  shop  are  also  valuable  for  the  perennial 
bed.  Indeed,  with  all  the  forms  of  plant  food  avail- 
able there  is  no  excuse  for  starving  plants.  There 
are,  of  course,  many  commercial  plant  foods  and  fer- 
tilisers on  the  market,  bone-meal  and  guano  being 
the  most  reliable  among  them,  but  many  of  them  are 
expensive  and  uncertain  in  their  action.  Being  highly 
concentrated  they  are  likely  to  do  harm  in  the  hands 
of  the  inexperienced.  The  natural  manures  are  the 
safest. 

In  using  liquid  manures  either  on  the  open  ground 
or  on  potted  plants,  they  should  only  be  applied  when 
the  soil  has  been  well  watered  the  day  before,  never 
when  it  is  dry.  The  plant,  being  supplied  with  all  it 
needs  to  drink,  absorbs  only  what  it  requires  for 
nourishment  and  is  less  likely  to  be  injured  by  an 


O     i-l 
O    f^ 


Three] 


overdose.     The  moisture  in  the  soil  serves  also  to 
reduce  the  strength  of  the  manure. 

In  applying  old  cow  or  horse  manure  to  new  beds 
a  wheel-barrow  load  to  every  nine  square  feet  is  not 
too  much  for  strong  growing  plants  such  as  Ricinus, 
Cannas,  and  Salvias.  Half  that  quantity  of  hen  ma- 
nure will  be  sufficient. 


Chapter  FOUR 

Ci)t  ilotfeetu  Coiteframe  auto 


THE  hotbed  is  an    enclosure,  affording 
bottom  heat  and  protection  from  cold, 
for  the  propagation  of  tender  plants 
unsuited  to  sowing  in  the  open  ground, 
and  for  starting  plants  too  early  in 
the  season  for  open-air  operations.     The  hotbed  is 
usually  started  in  February  or  March  in  the  latitude 
of  Philadelphia,  while  April  is  early  enough  in  the 
latitude  of  Detroit  and  Chicago.     Plants  are  trans- 
ferred to  the  open  ground  when  all  danger  of  frost  is 
past.    With  the  exception  of  a  few  plants  like  Poppies, 
which  do  not  bear  disturbance,  all  seeds  yield  better 
results  if  planted  where  they  have  protection  in  their 
early  stages  from  drying  wind,  burning  sun  and  nip- 
ping cold.  This  protection  the  cold-frame  gives,  while 
the  hotbed  affords  the  additional  advantage  of  artifi- 
cial heat.     Plants  thus  started  will  be  ready  to  trans- 
plant about  the  time  seeds  could  be  started  in  the  open 
ground  —  an    important   gain    in   northern  latitudes, 

30 


31 


where,  between  the  early  and  late  frosts  there  is  hardly 
time  for  the  maturing  of  annuals. 

The  hotbed  should  be  situated  on  the  south  side 
of  a  building,  wall  or  fence,  where  it  will  have  the 
full  benefit  of  the  sun  and  be  protected  from  cold 
winds.  It  is  also  desirable  that  the  land  should  slope 
toward  the  south,  that  all  surface  water  may  drain 
away,  and  that  the  bed  may  receive  the  greatest 
amount  of  sunshine  during  the  day.  In  constructing 
a  hotbed  dig  a  pit  two  feet  deep.  This  may  be  lined 
with  planks  or  bricks,  or  left  with  its  earthen  walls. 
Over  this  build  a  frame  of  rough  lumber  around  four 
posts  of  three-  or  four-inch  stuff,  three  feet  two  inches 
high  in  the  back,  and  two  feet  eight  inches  high  in  the 
front.  If  the  pit  is  not  lined,  this  will  bring  the  frame 
below  the  surface  and  allow  a  sufficient  slant  for  the 
free  shedding  of  water  and  the  concentration  of  the 
greatest  amount  of  sunshine  on  the  bed.  Regular 
hotbed  sash  are  three  feet  by  six,  and  cost  about  two 
dollars  and  seventy-five  cents  each,  glazed  and 
painted.  These  are  usually  arranged  to  rest  on  the 
frame,  simply  sliding  up  and  down,  the  size  of  the 
bed  determining  the  number  of  sash.  A  bed  three  by 
six,  however,  is  more  easily  handled  than  a  larger 
one  ;  and  two  or  more  beds,  set  end  to  end,  or  one 
long,  narrow  one  divided  by  partitions  into  three-by- 
six  beds,  will  be  more  satisfactory  in  every  way  than 
a  wider  one.  The  partitions  are  necessary,  not  alone 
to  strengthen  the  frame  and  support  the  sash,  but  to 


32  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

insure  to  each  section  the  special  treatment  it  requires. 
Not  all  seeds  germinate  in  the  same  temperature,  or 
require  the  same  degree  of  moisture.  There  is,  also, 
a  great  difference  in  the  period  of  germination ;  some 
seeds  sprout  in  from  three  to  five  days ;  others  require 
as  many  weeks.  With  separate  sections  seeds  of 
similar  habits  and  requirements  may  be  planted  to- 
gether. 

Florists'  sash  makes  an  expensive  hotbed,  and 
quite  as  satisfactory  results  may  be  obtained  by  using 
such  old  window-sash  as  may  be  picked  up  for  about 
twenty-five  cents  apiece  where  buildings  are  being  torn 
down  or  from  junk  or  hardware  dealers.  Old  sash 
will  probably  need  some  glazing  and  painting,  and 
these  are  among  the  things  the  amateur  gardener 
should  learn  to  do  for  herself,  as  sash  must  be  water- 
tight and  in  order  at  all  times.  A  sudden  hail-storm, 
a  mischievous  cat  or  careless  handling  may  leave  one 
with  broken  glass  that  must  be  replaced  at  once. 
When  old  sash  is  used  the  back  of  the  frame  should 
be  higher  than  the  sides  by  the  thickness  of  the  sash, 
so  that  the  sash  may  be  fastened  to  it  with  hinges  if 
desired.  A  cross-piece  from  the  back  to  the  front  for 
the  sash  to  rest  on  will  give  greater  stability  and 
prevent  draughts  of  cold  air  on  a  sudden  fall  of  tem- 
perature. 

Having  constructed  the  pit,  fill  it  with  fresh  manure 
from  the  horse-stable — that  from  young,  grain-fed 
stock  being  best.  It  must  be  perfectly  fresh,  gathered 


Four]  Cf)t  ilOtfcetl  33 

from  the  stalls  in  the  morning,  and  should  be  mixed 
with  a  quantity  of  litter — long  straw  or  leaves.  This 
serves  as  fuel,  insuring  a  continuous  heat.  Without  it 
the  heat  germinated  by  the  manure  would  quickly  die 
out  and  the  bed  become  cold.  Throw  the  manure 
loosely  into  the  frame,  close  the  sash  and  wait  for 
fermentation  or  heating.  This  should  take  place 
in  from  twelve  to  twenty- four  hours;  if  longer  than 
that  it  will  be  as  well  to  throw  out  the  manure  and 
begin  again,  making  sure  this  time  that  the  manure  is 
absolutely  fresh.  When  the  thermometer  by  rising 
to  100  or  more  degrees  shows  that  fermentation  is 
well  under  way,  the  manure  should  be  well  tramped 
down,  as  level  and  smooth  as  possible.  Over  this 
place  a  couple  of  inches  of  fine,  old,  well-rotted  ma- 
nure. This  will  afford  nourishment  for  the  young 
plants  should  they  make  sufficient  growth  to  need  it, 
or  on  account  of  stress  of  weather  be  detained  in  the 
hotbed  longer  than  expected.  If  this  is  not  supplied 
the  tender  roots  of  the  plants  are  apt  to  go  in  search 
of  the  crude  manure  in  the  bottom  of  the  hotbed,  and 
be  injured  by  contact  with  it.  When  plants  that  have 
come  up  thrifty  suddenly  turn  yellow  and  look  as  if 
they  had  been  scalded,  though  sufficiently  protected 
from  the  sun,  it  is  probable  that  their  roots  have  been 
burned  by  the  manure.  This  may  be  determined  by 
digging  down  to  the  roots..  If  they  have  reached  the 
manure  the  cause  is  evident;  other  plants  in  the  same 
beds,  with  shallower  roots,  it  will  be  observed,  are  not 


34  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

affected  in  the  same  way.  As  this  is  not  likely  to  hap- 
pen until  the  plants  have  made  considerable  growth 
the  season  will  probably  be  enough  advanced  to  per- 
mit of  planting  out,  especially  with  protection  at 
night,  or  they  may  be  transplanted  into  the  cold- 
frame  until  the  weather  is  warm.  Such  mishaps  sel- 
dom occur,  but  when  they  do,  they  must  be  met 
promptly.  Few  plants  will  make  over  four  inches  of 
roots  before  transplanting,  and  when  they  reach  the 
old  manure  they  usually  spread  out  without  going 
deeper. 

To  return  to  the  construction  of  the  hotbed:  Cover 
the  manure  with  four  inches  of  rich,  fine  loam,  free 
from  rough  lumps  and  stone ;  it  would  better  be  put 
through  a  sand-  or  coal-sieve  if  not  mellow  and  fine. 
Make  as  level  as  possible,  and  place  a  thermometer  in 
the  soil  to  register  the  temperature.  When  it  has 
risen  to  90  degrees  or  above,  and  then  fallen  to  75  or 
70  degrees,  the  seed  may  be  sown. 

In  planting  seed  it  is  best  to  use  narrow  strips  of 
wood  to  separate  the  different  varieties.  This  pre- 
vents mixing  and  running  together  when  watered. 
It  is  impossible  to  distinguish  between  different  vari- 
eties of  Asters,  Ageratums  and  Pansies  once  they  have 
become  mixed.  Where  one  lives  within  reach  of  a 
box  factory  narrow  strips  of  wood — admirable  for 
this  purpose — of  uniform  width  and  very  thin,  may 
be  readily  obtained.  It  is  best  to  begin  at  the  upper 
right-hand  corner  with  seeds  that  require  the  most 


cije  flotfceti  35 


time  to  germinate,  labelling  each  section  plainly  with 
name,  date  and  the  period  of  germination. 

Flowers  that  make  the  tallest  growth  may  be  placed 
against  the  back  with  advantage  —  as  Cobaea  scandens, 
Ricinus,  the  Dolichos,  Cosmos,  and  the  like;  giving 
them  the  advantage  of  the  extra  light  and  keeping 
them  from  withholding  the  light  from  the  plants  in 
front  of  them. 

Coarse  seeds  should  be  planted  in  drills  and  covered 
to  twice  their  depth.  A  furrow  may  be  scratched 
with  a  sharp  stick  from  an  eighth  to  a  half-inch  deep, 
and  the  seed  sown  thinly  in  it,  the  earth  being  replaced 
and  pressed  firmly  down  with  a  piece  of  wood.  This 
is  important,  as  it  brings  the  seed  in  close  contact  with 
the  earth,  and  the  tiny  sprout  can  lay  hold  of  it  at  once 
when  germination  takes  place.  Many  seeds  of  weak 
germinating  power  are  lost  when  sown  in  loose,  coarse 
soil  by  failure  to  obtain  immediate  contact  with  the 
nourishment  contained  in  it. 

Fine  seeds  like  Petunias,  Nicotianas  and  Ageratums 
must  be  sown  broadcast  in  little  squares  reserved  for 
them.  Sow  on  the  surface,  press  into  the  soil  with  a 
piece  of  board  and  merely  sift  fine  sand  over. 

A  piece  of  thin  wood  eight  or  ten  inches  long  and 
four  or  five  inches  wide,  with  a  handle  on  one  side,  will 
be  found  very  useful  to  press  the  soil  down  quickly  and 
firmly.  This  should  be  an  adjunct  to  every  well- 
regulated  hotbed.  So  should  a  thermometer,  hung 
on  the  back  wall  of  the  hotbed,  the  bulb  level  with 


36  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

the  soil.  After  the  seeds  are  all  sown,  if  the  soil  is 
at  all  dry,  sprinkle  carefully  with  a  rubber  sprinkler, 
or  a  whisk-broom  dipped  in  water  and  shaken  over 
the  bed.  Do  not  use  the  watering-pot,  as  it  will  wash 
the  seed  out  of  the  ground.  When  the  plants  are  up 
and  of  some  size  the  watering-pot  may  be  resorted 
to,  but  not  before.  When  all  the  seeds  are  sown  as 
directed  cover  with  newspapers  and  close  the  sash. 

The  most  careful  attention  must  now  be  given  the 
hotbed.  If  the  temperature  rises  above  75  degrees 
in  the  warmest  part  of  the  day  the  sash  must  be  raised 
an  inch  or  two.  In  doing  this,  if  the  wind  is  cold,  it  will 
be  best  to  slip  a  strip  of  wood  between  the  sash  and 
frame  on  the  windward  side,  or  protect  the  opening 
on  the  windward  side  with  a  bit  of  carpet. 

When  the  seeds  in  any  particular  plot  show  a  single 
pair  of  leaves,  remove  the  paper  over  that  much  of 
the  bed,  still  shading  from  the  sun  during  the  hottest 
part  of  the  day  by  a  bit  of  paper  on  the  glass  directly 
over  the  plants.  When  the  plants  appear  too  thickly 
in  the  row,  transplant  them  as  soon  as  they  have  their 
second  leaves  into  other  rows  between  the  first,  or 
into  another  hotbed  or  cold-frame.  Encourage  vig- 
orous growth  by  giving  room  to  develop  and  as  much 
air  and  light  as  possible. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  are  of  sufficient  size  and  the 
weather  is  warm  enough,  remove  the  sash  during  the 
day,  replacing  it  with  screens  made  of  lath.  These 
screens  are  easily  made  by  nailing  strips  of  lath,  the 


Four]         C!)e  Cotteframe  37 

width  of  -the  hotbed,  to  strips  of  wood  the  length 
of  the  bed.  The  lath  should  be  set  its  own  width 
apart,  and  the  nails,  of  which  there  should  be  two  in 
each  end,  clinched  on  the  under  side.  Such  screens 
are  a  necessary  part  of  the  hotbed,  and  will  last  for 
years. 

Before  transplanting  to  the  open  ground  these 
screens  should  be  removed  entirely  and  the  plants  left 
exposed  to  the  weather  for  a  few  days  to  harden. 
Screens  of  chicken  netting  may  be  substituted,  if  pro- 
tection from  cats,  dogs  or  chickens  is  needed.  If,  in 
the  early  stages  of  the  hotbed,  drops  of  moisture 
gather  on  the  glass,  the  soil  is  too  wet  and  the  sash 
must  be  raised  to  allow  the  surplus  moisture  to  pass 
off,  avoiding  always  a  cold  draught  across  the  bed. 

The  cold-frame  is  simply  a  frame  of  boards  fitted 
with  sash  and  placed  over  a  prepared  bed  of  earth. 
As  the  bed  will  be  raised  slightly  above  the  surface 
of  the  soil,  the  frame  should  be  set  over  it,  shutting 
out  the  cold  from  the  sides  as  well  as  the  top.  A  cov- 
ered bed,  prepared  without  heating  material,  is  a  cold- 
frame  ;  and  one  in  which  the  heating  material  is  spent 
is  often  used  as  a  cold-frame  after  it  has  served  its 
purpose  as  a  hotbed  earlier  in  the  season,  for  growing 
Gloxinias  and  rooting  cuttings  during  the  summer,  and 
in  August  for  sowing  Pansy  seed  for  the  next  sum- 
mer's blooming.  Cold-frames  are  useful  to  protect 
beds  of  such  tender  perennials  as  Tea-roses,  Pansies, 
Canterbury-bells,  Foxgloves  and  Violets.  Violets 


38  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

may,  by  this  means,  be  kept  in  bloom  during  the  win- 
ter. They  are  also  useful  for  bringing  forward,  early 
in  spring,  beds  of  Hyacinths  and  Narcissi.  They 
should  be  protected  by  carpets  or  mattings  at  night 
and  during  the  colder  days,  and  exposed  to  the  heat  of 
the  sun  on  bright  days  when  the  soil  is  not  frozen. 
When  it  is,  they  must  remain  covered  and  thaw  out  in 
the  dark,  to  be  aired  when  the  weather  is  above  freez- 
ing, but  draughts  across  the  bed  must  be  avoided,  as 
they  will  certainly  blast  any  buds  there  may  be. 

The  cold-frame  in  winter  must  have  good  drainage, 
or  much  damage  will  ensue  from  water  standing 
around  the  roots  of  plants.  The  surface  of  the  bed 
must  be  above  the  level  of  the  land  outside  and  a 
trifle  lower  at  one  corner.  From  this  corner  a  trench 
should  be  dug  having  an  outlet,  or  a  deep  hole  may 
be  dug  and  filled  with  broken  crockery  and  stones 
to  carry  off  all  surplus  water. 

The  sand-box  is  a  receptacle  for  the  summer  stor- 
age of  plants  which  are  not  to  be  bedded  out.  It  is 
also  used  to  prepare  plants  for  winter  blooming,  and 
for  experiments  with  novelties  in  house-plants.  It  is, 
finally,  the  ideal  place  for  rooting  cuttings.  I  have 
never  known  a  plant  capable  of  being  started  from 
cuttings  that  would  not  take  root  in  the  sand-box. 
Any  shallow  box  that  may  be-  reached  across  easily 
is  suitable  for  this  purpose ;  or  a  deep  box  may  be  cut 
down  to  six  or  eight  inches  and  rendered  available, 
the  length  depending  on  the  plants  to  be  accomm^- 


Four]          cije  |s>ant)4)0):  39 

dated  and  the  room  at  disposal.  The  sand-box  should 
be  placed,  if  possible,  in  a  convenient  place  on  the  east 
side  of  the  house.  Elevate  on  saw-horses,  blocks, 
posts  or  a  regular  frame  to  a  height  easy  to  reach 
when  sitting  in  a  chair.  Fill  nearly  full  with  clean 
white  sand ;  in  this  bury  the  pots  nearly  to  the  brims 
and  keep  the  sand  constantly  wet. 

Plants  that  can  stand  full  sunshine — as  Geraniums, 
Crotons,  Heliotropes,  etc. — should  be  placed  in  front ; 
those  requiring  more  shade  may  be  in  the  second  row, 
and  those  needing  the  most  against  the  wall.  Vines, 
also,  may  be  trained  against  the  wall,  and  over  the 
sides  of  the  box,  if  it  is  desired  to  make  it  beautiful  as 
well  as  useful.  A  wooden  chair  should  be  placed  con- 
veniently near,  and  the  space  underneath  may  be  util- 
ised for  ferns,  or  the  storage  of  tools  and  pots. 

Once  established,  the  sand-box  will  be  found  one 
of  the  most  fascinating  of  spots.  Cuttings  of  all  kinds 
may  be  thrust  into  the  sand  between  the  pots — Gera- 
niums, Carnations  and  Roses  in  front.  Gloxinias  and 
Begonias — with  the  leaves  laid  flat  on  the  sand  in  the 
rear — wiH  quickly  take  root  in  it.  No  one  who  cul- 
tivates a  garden,  or  house-plants,  should  try  to  get 
along  without  a  work  table  or  bench,  and  this  should 
be  situated  in  some  cool,  shady  spot  out  of  doors.  It 
may  be  either  a  large  kitchen  table  or  a  large  packing 
box,  the  latter  being  preferable,  perhaps,  as  affording 
shelter  for  the  various  tools  used  in  working.  It 
should  be  high  enough  to  work  at  conveniently  when 


40  The  Flower  Garden 

standing  up,  and  a  tall  stool  should  be  provided  for 
sitting  on  when  desired,  to  be  pushed  under  the  top  of 
table  when  not  in  use.  There  should  be  a  shelf  under- 
neath, sufficiently  roomy  to  hold  a  supply  of  pots  and 
flats,  and,  below  it,  a  box  of  potting  soil  and  one  of 
fine  white  sand  should  be  kept  ready  for  use.  If  the 
potting  soil  lies  on  the  ground  it  will  keep  moist  in 
the  dryest  weather.  A  tin  pail  of  pebbles,  broken 
crockery  and  charcoal  for  drainage,  and  a  supply  of 
sphagnum  moss  should  also  be  kept  handy.  A  trowel, 
knife,  shears,  pencils  and  a  stick — or,  better  still,  a 
piece  of  a  broken  carving-steel — for  pushing  a  plant 
out  of  the  pot  by  inserting  it  in  the  drainage  hole  when, 
for  any  reason,  it  is  not  readily  removed  by  tapping, 
will  greatly  lessen  the  labour  of  repotting  and  shifting 
house-plants  in  summer. 

A  shallow  tray,  with  a  bail  of  wood,  large  enough 
to  hold  a  number  of  pots,  will  be  useful  to  carry  plants 
from  the  potting  table  to  the  sand-box,  and  will  save 
many  steps.  With  a  well-equipped  table  to  depend  on 
and  no  litter  around  the  house,  one  is  much  more  likely 
to  give  plants  necessary  attention  promptly.  The 
work  then  becomes  a  pleasure  instead  of  a  labour  to  be 
dreaded.  There,  too,  may  be  kept  the  supply  for 
staking  plants.  The  nicest  stakes  for  house-plants  are 
made  of  Cat-tail  stems,  any  quantity  of  which  may  be 
gathered  in  the  fall  and  stored  away  for  future  use, 
each  stalk  furnishing  two  or  three  stakes.  Being 
round  and  smooth  they  are  sightly  and  just  what  is 
needed  for  Carnations,  Freesias  and  the  like. 


Chapter  FIVE 

-purcimsmg  of 


BUYING  seeds  is  largely  a  matter  of  expe- 
rience.    So  glowing  are  the  descriptions 
in  the  numerous  catalogues  sent  out  that 
one  may  easily  be  led  into  ordering  many 
worthless  novelties,  and  many  desirable 
ones  for  which  there  is  neither  room  nor  sufficient 
knowledge  of  their  wants  to  grow  them  successfully. 
Cheap  collections,  where  one  is  requested  to  send  ten 
cents  for  a  catalogue  and  twelve  packages  of  seeds,  are 
worst  of  all. 

In  buying  flower-seeds,  as  in  everything  else,  one 
never  gets  "something  for  nothing"  —  not  even  experi- 
ence, and  cheap  seeds  usually  prove  a  very  poor  invest- 
ment; the  only  safeguard  is  to  buy  of  trustworthy 
dealers  whose  seeds  are  offered  at  fair  prices.  Take, 
for  instance,  Pansy  seed:  one  ought  not  to  expect  to 
buy  a  fine  mixture  in  a  full-size  packet  —  two  hundred 
and  fifty  seeds  —  for  less  than  twenty-five  cents,  while 
such  varieties  as  Giant  Trimardeau  and  Giant  Gassier 
should  be  fifteen  cents  or  more,  according  to  the  place 

41 


42  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

of  purchase.  A  few  of  the  old  favourites — like  the 
Snow  Queen — may  be  bought  in  packets  costing  from 
three  to  five  cents  and  prove  good  value.  But  gener- 
ally speaking,  packets  selling  for  less  than  five  cents 
are  to  be  looked  upon  with  suspicion.  Seeds  bought 
at  the  grocer's  or  other  local  dealer's  are  likely  to  be 
old  or  inferior  stock — the  better  class  of  seedsmen 
selling  direct  to  the  consumer  only.  At  the  end  of 
every  season  seedsmen  have  a  large  stock  left  over. 
The  best  concerns  destroy  these,  but  the  less  scrupu- 
lous put  them  up  as  prizes  for  advertising  purposes, 
or  sell  them  to  the  local  dealers. 

Some  varieties  of  seeds  retain  vitality  for  years,  like 
the  Morning-glory,  while  others  lose  vitality  in  a  few 
months  or  weeks,  like  the  perennial  Phlox,  which  must 
be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  From  this  it  can  be  readily 
seen  how  worthless  some  of  the  seed  carried  over  from 
year  to  year  must  be.  As  an  experiment,  I  planted 
under  glass  in  the  house,  with  more  than  usual  care, 
a  part  of  one  of  these  trial  packages  of  twelve  for  a 
quarter.  From  five  of  the  packages  I  got  just  one 
plant — a  Lantana,  while  from  the  sixth  I  grew  a  num- 
ber of  inferior  Petunias.  In  striking  contrast  to  this 
I  planted,  under  the  same  conditions,  a  packet  of 
Bush  Hill  Pioneer  Cyclamen  containing  twelve  seeds, 
for  which  I  paid  fifty  cents,  and  secured  eleven  plants, 
every  one  of  which  lived,  making  four  and  a  half 
cents  apiece  for  a  very  choice  variety  of  Cyclamen, 
while  the  one  little  common  Lantana  cost  me  ten  cents. 


five]     ;purcf)a£ftttg  of  ^eetis       43 

The  prices  of  one  firm  will  frequently  be  much 
higher  than  those  of  another  equally  trustworthy,  the 
difference  being  caused,  in  most  cases,  by  the  number 
of  seeds  in  the  packets.  A  few  firms  now  state  the 
number  of  seeds  in  their  price-lists.  This  should  be- 
come the  general  practice.  There  is  manifest  in- 
justice in  selling  packets  containing  a  quantity  which 
is  entirely  problematical,  and  often  much  below  what 
the  purchaser  has  a  right  to  expect.  To  advertise 
seeds  much  under  the  usual  price  and  reduce  the  num- 
ber accordingly  is  a  common  practice. 

It  is  better  to  buy  a  few  good  seeds,  and  by  care- 
ful cultivation  bring  the  plants  as  near  perfection  as 
possible,  than  to  buy  a  quantity  of  cheap  seeds.  One 
can  join  with  a  friend  or  neighbour  and  thus  secure  a 
larger  variety  at  less  cost  than  would  otherwise  be 
possible.  Generally  speaking  I  think  it  a  great  mistake 
to  save  one's  own  seed.  Few  choice  varieties  are 
fixed  and  so  tend  to  run  out  in  two  or  three  seasons. 
From  fine  strains  of  Asters  you  may  save  seed  that 
will  give  good  results  the  first  year,  but  flowers  grown 
from  seed  saved  from  these  will  show  more  or  less 
centre,  so  that  fresh  seed  should  be  purchased  every 
other  year  at  least.  As  the  bees  do  not  visit  the  Asters 
so  assiduously  as  other  flowers,  they  are  less  given 
to  hybridisation  and  come  quite  true  from  seed;  the 
trouble  with  them  being  deterioration.  The  first 
flower  on  the  plant  is  usually  the  best,  and  should  be 
reserved  for  seed  by  tying  a  string  around  it  and  label- 


44  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

ling  it,  if  it  is  desired  to  keep  the  varieties  separate. 
Remove  all  other  blooms  on  the  plant,  as  they  fade, 
allowing  only  the  one  selected  to  ripen. 

Pansy  seed  should  never  be  saved,  as  the  ripening 
of  it  weakens  the  plant  and  checks  its  blooming. 
Pansies  growing  in  a  mixed  bed  never  come  true 
from  seed  and  deteriorate  rapidly.  Growing  Pansy 
seed  is  work  for  the  Pansy  specialist,  but  if  it  must  be 
saved  a  few  plants  should  be  grown  in  a  bed  by  them- 
selves and  covered  with  a  netting  to  keep  off  the  bees, 
which  work  incessantly  over  the  Pansy  bed.  Not  more 
than  two  or  three  of  the  finest  flowers  on  a  plant  should 
be  allowed  to  seed,  all  other  buds  being  removed  as 
they  form,  and  the  plants  kept  in  a  high  state  of 
cultivation  and  supplied  with  liquid  manure  at  least 
once  a  week  during  the  season  of  seeding. 

Seed  may  be  saved  freely  from  Poppies,  as  they 
do  not  deteriorate  appreciably,  and  the  hybridisation 
constantly  going  on  results  in  a  wonderful  variety  of 
form  and  colouring.  The  ripening  of  one  or  two 
capsules  of  seed  does  not  materially  affect  the  period 
of  bloom ;  but  it  is  well  to  mark  one  blossom  on  each 
plant,  giving  a  preference  to  the  terminal  blossom 
on  the  main  stalk,  as  being  usually  the  finest.  Remove 
all  other  blossoms  as  they  fade.  Perennial  Poppies 
will  do  better,  however,  if  no  seeds  are  allowed  to 
form.  Morning-glories,  Cosmos  and  Verbenas  sow 
themselves  better  than  the  gardener  can,  the 
plants  being  much  more  vigorous  than  from  the  hand- 


;purrfmstttg  of 


45 


sown  seeds.  Verbenas  mix  badly,  and  are  apt  to  hark 
back  to  the  original  purple  strain,  or  come  striped. 
The  seeds  of  the  pink  variety  come  true,  I  find,  and 
some  of  the  finest  pinks  I  have  seen  were  from  self- 
sown  seed.  They  range  in  colour  through  all  the 
shades  from  pink  to  deep  rose.  A  fair  proportion 
of  white  may  also  be  expected,  but  scarlet  and  red 
with  a  white  eye  are  shy  and  rarely  appear. 

Nasturtiums  rarely  come  true  from  seed,  and  if  one 
desires  a  particular  colour  or  shade,  she  must  either  buy 
fresh  seed  or  grow  that  particular  variety  alone.  If, 
however,  one  simply  desires  an  abundance  of  bright 
flowers  with  a  preponderance  of  yellow,  orange  and 
scarlet,  it  is  worth  while  to  save  seed,  as  its  vitality  is 
remarkable  and  every  seed  may  be  expected  to  germi- 
nate. 

No  variety  of  Petunia  can  be  depended  upon  when 
grown  in  a  mixed  bed.  A  particularly  fine  variety 
may  be  lifted  and  planted  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
house,  either  in  the  ground  or  in  a  window-box,  or  in 
a  pot  in  the  house.  From  one  exceedingly  fine  speci- 
men of  the  large  ruffled  variety,  lifted  and  grown  in 
a  window-box  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  house  from 
the  Petunia  bed,  I  saved  a  single  pod  of  seed  from 
which  I  grew,  the  following  year,  sufficient  plants 
for  a  large  bed.  No  two  of  these  were  alike  in  colour, 
but  they  retained  the  immense  size,  ruffled  edges,  vel- 
vety texture  and  beautifully  marked  throats  of  the 
parent  strain;  some  were  a  velvety  crimson,  nearly 


46  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

black,  some  white  with  crimson  blotches,  and  some 
showed  rare  shades  of  grey. 

Sweet  Alyssum  sows  itself,  and  the  trouble  is 
usually  not  to  save  but  to  get  rid  of  it.  Candytuft 
may  be  saved,  but  the  fewer  flowers  allowed  to  seed 
the  better  for  the  continuation  of  bloom.  Where 
one  does  not  actually  need  the  seed  all  flowers  should 
be  removed  as  fast  as  they  fade.  No  one  thing  will 
add  so  much  to  the  appearance  of  the  garden  as  this, 
as  nothing  is  more  untidy  than  flowers  gone  to 
seed. 

Perennials  are  greatly  benefited  by  having  the 
withered  flowers  removed ;  indeed  so  noticeable  is  the 
advantage  that  some,  like  the  Monkshood,  will  give 
a  second  crop  of  flowers,  and  those  that  will  not  re- 
spond in  this  way  will  be  more  robust  and  bloom 
more  freely  the  next  year. 

Vincas,  too,  and  Hibiscus  bloom  more  freely  if  not 
allowed  to  seed,  while  Coleus  should  not  even  be  al- 
lowed to  bloom.  Sweet-peas  must  on  no  account  be 
permitted  to  seed  unless  grown  for  the  purpose. 
Seed  may  be  gathered  from  the  Thunbergia,  Mau-x 
randya,  Adlumia,  common  Morning-glory  and  Holly- 
hock without  risk  of  deterioration  or  harm  to  the 
vine.  Antirrhinums  suffer  severely  from  seed-bear- 
ing, while  the  Ricinus,  Lantanas  and  Salvias  may  be 
allowed  to  seed  freely.  Ageratums  look  rusty  when 
ripening  seed,  and  it  pays  to  go  over  them  frequently 
with  the  shears;  this  will  keep  them  fresh  and  full 


^urcfmsmg  of 


of  bloom  until  frost.    One  flower-head  will  furnish  all 
the  seed  one  is  likely  to  want. 

All  seeds  should  be  gathered  when  ripe  and  the 
foliage  dry.  They  should  be  exposed  to  the  air  in 
any  convenient  receptacle,  except  in  the  case  of  the 
Thunbergias,  Balsams,  and  others  having  pods  which 
snap  open  and  expel  the  seeds  to  a  distance.  These 
should  be  saved  in  paper  bags  until  perfectly  dry, 
when  they  may  be  freed  from  their  husks  by  sifting 
or  winnowing,  and  stored  in  paper  bags,  envelopes, 
or  boxes.  It  pays  to  save  the  florists'  envelopes  for 
this  purpose,  as  they  are  already  labelled.  Never  put 
seeds  away  unlabelled,  and  it  is  a  good  idea  to  add 
to  the  label  the  date,  period  of  germination,  with 
the  colour  of  the  bloom,  height,  and  other  data  of 
interest.  It  is  still  better  to  keep  a  book  of  such 
information  to  which  one  may  refer  from  year  to  year. 
There  are  frequent  doubts  concerning  some  opera- 
tion —  the  season  of  starting  the  hotbed,  the  time  it 
took  a  certain  class  of  bulbs  to  bloom  after  potting, 
and  the  like.  In  all  such  cases  the  note-book  offers 
unimpeachable  evidence. 


Chapter  SIX 

Starting  §>eetis  in  jflats 

THERE  are  many  choice  seeds,  especially 
in  the  greenhouse  varieties,  that  can- 
not be  handled  successfully  in  the  hot- 
bed— Begonias,  Gloxinias,  Cinerarias, 
and  Primulas  among  them.    All  seeds 
too  fine  to  be  covered  do  better  with  house  treatment. 
For  starting  these  the  shallow  boxes  or  flats,  as  they 
are  called,   are  used.     Shallow  cigar-boxes,   or  the 
larger  ones  sawed  in  two  and  the  lid  nailed  on  for 
the  extra  bottom,  make  convenient  sizes  for  the  finest 
seeds.    They  may  be  used  from  year  to  year  if  care 
is  taken  to  store  them  away,  at  the  end  of  the  season, 
where  they  will  keep  dry  and  ready  for  use. 

Holes  for  drainage  should  be  bored  in  the  bottom 
and  covered  with  bits  of  glass  or  broken  crockery. 
Fill  with  finely  sifted  leaf-mould  to  within  an  inch  of 
the  top  and  shake  the  earth  smooth  and  even.  A 
smooth  piece  of  board,  three  inches  wide  and  as  long 
as  the  inside  width  of  the  flat,  with  a  handle  that 
can  be  easily  grasped,  is  indispensable  for  pressing 
down  the  soil,  both  before  and  after  sowing  the  seeds. 

48 


Starting  g>eetis  in  jflats    49 

It  should  be  stored  away  with  the  flats  at  the  end  of 
the  season. 

Sow  very  fine  seed  broadcast,  scattering  it  thinly 
and  evenly  over  the  surface  and  pressing  it  into  the 
soil  with  the  wood.  It  will  be  better  to  sow  only 
part  of  a  packet  at  a  time.  This  will  usually  give  all 
the  plants  of  a  kind  wanted  at  one  time,  and  if  suc- 
cess does  not  follow  this  first  trial  there  will  be  seed 
left  for  another  sowing.  Label  plainly  with  the  name 
and  date  of  sowing,  and,  when  known,  the  date  of 
germination.  Give  the  soil  a  thorough  watering  by 
setting  the  flat  in  lukewarm  water  until  the  water 
rises  to  the  surface,  but  not  above  it.  When  the 
entire  surface  is  wet,  remove  the  box,  draining  off 
all  surplus  water  by  tipping  on  one  corner,  until  the 
water  ceases  to  run  off.  Cover  the  flat  with  a  glass 
and  sheet  of  white  paper  and  place  in  a  warm  place 
— a  shelf  above  a  coal-stove  or  radiator  is  an  ex- 
cellent location,  as  it  affords  the  bottom  heat  so  es- 
sential in  starting  tender  seeds.  Seeds  while  germi- 
nating need  but  little  light,  and  a  box  on  a  shelf  in 
a  living-room  may  be  so  screened  as  not  to  be  un- 
sightly. A  shelf  under  another,  having  a  light 
valance,  is  an  ideal  place,  as  the  heat  strikes  more 
on  the  bottom  of  the  box,  leaving  the  top  cool. 
Coarse  seeds  may  be  sown  in  rows  and  lightly  cov- 
ered, or  enough  fine  white  sand  to  merely  cover  may 
be  sifted  over  them.  Large  seed,  like  the  Asparagus 
Sprengeri  may  be  pressed  into  the  soil  to  twice  their 


50  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

depth.  Or  the  soil  may  first  be  covered  with  a  thin 
layer  of  fine  white  sand,  and  the  seeds  sown  on  this 
and  covered  according  to  need.  Sand  counteracts  the 
troublesome  tendency  to  damping  off  caused  by  the 
presence  of  a  minute  fungus  in  the  form  of  a  fine 
moss  or  thread-like  filaments  covering  the  ground. 
Since  this  is  the  result  of  too  much  moisture,  the 
remedy  is  to  remove  the  glass,  allowing  the  surplus 
moisture  to  pass  off  and  the  dry  air  to  strike  the  soil 
for  a  short  time.  Care  must  be  taken  that  the  dry- 
ness  does  not  extend  below  the  surface.  Drops  of 
water  on  the  glass  indicate  too  much  humidity.  The 
glass  should  be  removed,  wiped,  and  aired.  Where 
the  plants  are  not  too  close  together  a  crochet-hook 
or  hat-pin  may  be  used  to  scrape  the  moss  or  filament 
from  the  earth.  This  slight  disturbance  of  the  soil 
often  serves  to  destroy  the  fungus.  If  the  soil 
threatens  to  become  dry,  water  carefully  with  a  rub- 
ber sprinkler.  If  the  dryness  begins  in  the  bottom, 
water  as  before  by  setting  the  flat  in  a  pan  of  water. 

When  the  plants  have  their  second  leaves  give 
more  air  and  remove  the  paper;  in  a  day  or  two  set 
in  a  light,  warm  window,  screening  from  the  hot  sun 
by  placing  a  piece  of  white  paper  between  the  box  and 
the  window  glass.  Leave  the  glass  partly  off  the  flat 
to  admit  air,  and  when  the  plants  have  their  first  true 
leaves  remove  it  entirely  for  a  part  of  the  time. 

When  large  enough  to  handle,  transplant  the  seed- 
lings into  other  flats,  setting  them  one  or  two  inches 


six]   Starting  &ttf)8  in  jflate    si 

apart  according  to  their  growth.  When  the  leaves 
again  touch  prick  them  out  in  two-inch  pots  of  leaf- 
mould,  placing  a  piece  of  crockery  over  the  drainage 
hole  and  filling  with  earth  to  within  half  an  inch  of 
the  top.  Plunge  the  pots  into  a  box  of  sand  in  a 
sunny  window  until  large  enough  to  go  out  of  doors. 
As  soon  as  the  roots  fill  the  pots  shift  to  a  size  larger, 
using  compost  of  two  parts  fibrous  loam,  four  parts 
leaf-mould,  one  part  old,  well-rotted  manure,  and  one 
part  sharp  white  sand,  all  thoroughly  sifted  together. 
This  is  called  fine  compost,  while  soils  that  have  not 
been  sifted  are  known  as  rough  compost.  To  remove 
sticks,  stones,  or  hard  bits  of  root  put  through  a  sand 
or  coal-ash  screen.  A  piece  of  wire  netting  slightly 
gathered  up  in  the  hand  makes  a  convenient  screen 
for  a  small  quantity  and  a  box  with  a  netting  bottom 
for  larger  quantities  of  earth. 

By  the  time  the  plants  again  need  shifting  it  should 
be  warm  enough  to  bed  out  all  those  that  are  to 
grow  in  the  open  ground,  while  those  intended  for 
the  house  must  be  shifted  from  pot  to  pot  as  they 
outgrow  their  quarters  and  be  given  such  special 
treatment  as  the  individual  plants  may  require,  al- 
ways aiming  at  as  thrifty  a  growth  as  possible.  Plants 
intended  for  winter  blooming  must  have  all  their  buds 
removed  and  their  branches  pinched  back  according 
to  their  summer  development. 

Weak  liquid  manure  may  be  given  once  a  week 
during  summer.  Keep  the  sand  in  the  sand-box  wet 


52  The  Flower  Garden 

at  all  times,  but  do  not  over-water.  Water  thor- 
oughly and  then  allow  the  earth  to  become  nearly 
dry  before  watering  again;  this  alternate  moisture 
and  dryness  allows  the  wood  to  riperf  and  make  a 
stockier  growth  and  one  that  will  stand  frequent 
changes  of  temperature  better  than  the  tender  growth 
induced  by  over-watering. 


Chapter  SEVEN 

ant  Repotting 


TENDER  annuals  should  not  be  planted 
out  of  doors  until  all  danger  of  frost 
is  past  —  usually  about  the  twentieth 
of  May  in  the  latitude  of  Detroit  and 
Chicago,  and  correspondingly  earlier 
in  the  latitude  of  Philadelphia.     Corn-planting  time 
is  safe  in  all  latitudes.     Even  hardy  annuals,  if  not 
too  crowded,   do  better  in  hotbeds  and  boxes  until 
the  nights  are  warm.     Vines  especially  suffer  from 
cold  nights  and  cold  ground,  and  often  receive  a  set- 
back from  which  they  may  not  recover  all  summer. 

It  is  best  to  prepare  the  beds  a  few  days  in  advance 
that  they  may  settle,  as  freshly  dug  soil  is  too  loose 
for  the  roots  of  tender  seedlings. 

For  solid  beds  of  one  flower  make  straight,  paral- 
lel rows  about  nine  inches  apart  for  plants  like  Pan- 
sies,  and  from  twelve  to  eighteen  for  Asters  and  their 
kind.  A  most  convenient  method  is  to  use  a  board 
the  length  of  the  bed,  or  as  long  as  convenient,  with 
the  distance  between  the  plants  marked  on  it.  By 

53 


54  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

using  a  board  wide  enough  to  stand  or  kneel  on,  step- 
ping on  the  bed  is  avoided.  On  a  round  bed  the  lines 
may  run  straight  across  or  they  may  radiate  from  the 
centre,  in  which  case  it  will  be  necessary  to  skip  a 
part  of  every  other  row,  as  the  rows  run  together 
at  the  top. 

It  is  better  to  transplant  on  a  bright,  warm  day 
when  the  soil  is  dry  than  on  a  damp  or  wet  one. 
Never  transplant  when  the  soil  is  wet.  Many  people 
take  advantage  of  an  approaching  rain  to  set  out 
plants,  but  this  is  a  doubtful  practice.  If  the  rain 
is  followed  by  several  days  of  cloudy  weather,  it  may 
do,  but  if  followed  by  hot  sunshine  the  plants  will 
suffer  more  than  if  first  planted  in  sunshine  in  hot, 
dry  weather. 

Only  as  many  plants  should  be  lifted  from  the  hot- 
bed at  one  time  as  may  be  transplanted  before  they 
wilt  badly.  The  plants  should  be  well  watered  the 
night  before,  that  they  may  have  a  good  supply  of 
moisture  stored,  and  that  the  soil  may  be  moist  and 
cling  closely  to  their  roots. 

With  the  trowel  make  a  hole  deep  enough  to  re- 
ceive the  roots  without  crowding,  place  the  plant,  fill 
the  hole  with  water,  and  when  that  has  partly  disap- 
peared press  the  earth  firmly  about  the  roots.  Work 
the  surface  earth  fine  and  smooth  about  the  plant, 
taking  care  that  it  is  perfectly  dry.  If,  after  setting 
the  bed,  wet  spots  appear,  go  over  them  carefully  with 
dry  earth.  Do  not  cover  or  protect  in  any  way ;  far 


Seven]  ratlpat  55 

more  plants  are  lost  by  so-called  protection  than  by 
any  other  form  of  mismanagement.  If  the  planting 
has  been  done  properly  the  roots  will  keep  cool  and 
damp — the  mulch  of  earth  preventing  evapora- 
tion. This  being  the  case,  the  tops  will  take  care 
of  themselves  if  sun  and  air  have  free  access  and  the 
wind  can  sweep  across  them.  Planting,  as  it  is  usually 
done — with  the  surface  left  wet,  and  the  air  shut 
away  from  the  top — causes  the  water  to  evaporate 
rapidly  in  the  hot  air,  and  the  plant  is  literally  cooked 
to  death.  The  water  applied  to  the  roots  at  planting 
will  usually  last  for  several  days.  The  condition  of 
the  soil  may  be  ascertained  by  removing  a  portion  of 
the  surface.  If  the  earth  underneath  is  found  to  be 
drying  out  too  much  make  a  hole  on  one  side  of  the 
plant  and  fill  it  with  water  as  before,  carefully  re- 
placing the  mulch  of  dry  earth.  Should  it  rain  before 
the  plants  have  become  established  the  earth  must  be 
worked  over  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  dry  that  the 
moisture  may  be  retained.  If  these  directions  are 
carefully  carried  out  the  tenderest  plants  may  be 
transplanted  in  the  hottest  sun  without  injury.  Oc- 
casionally a  plant  will  wilt  from  exposure  before  plant- 
ing, but  it  will  be  all  right  the  next  day — unless  it 
was  really  injured  before  being  placed  in  the  ground. 
I  repeat  the  caution  to  lift  no  more  plants  at  one  time 
than  may  be  set  in  the  ground  before  they  wilt;  to 
form  a  fine  mulch  of  dry  earth  over  the  soil;  to  cover 
plants  in  no  way,  and  to  use  no  water  on  the  surface 


56  The  Flower  Garden 


for  a  few  days  until  they  have  become  established, 
which  they  will  indicate  by  spreading  out  their  leaves 
and  making  ready  to  grow.  This  method  of  planting 
should  be  followed  in  moving  plants  from  one  part  of 
the  garden  to  another,  in  resetting  clumps  of  peren- 
nials, in  bedding  out  house-plants  and  those  received 
by  mail.  Where  these  last  have  had  part  or  all  of  the 
soil  removed  it  will  greatly  benefit  them  to  set  them 
in  pots  until  these  are  filled  with  roots. 

It  is  desirable  that  young  plants  should  be  kept 
growing  vigorously  all  the  time,  and  frequent  shift- 
ing is  necessary.  Whenever  the  earth  becomes  full 
of  roots,  or  the  ball  of  earth  is  covered  with  a  network 
of  roots,  the  plant  should  be  shifted  into  a  pot  a  size 
larger. 

"Shifting"  means  changing  the  plant  to  a  pot  a 
size  larger  without  disturbing  the  ball  of  earth,  while 
"repotting"  properly  means  an  entire  renewal  of  the 
soil,  the  same  sized  crock  being  sometimes  used. 
Shifting  may  be  done  at  any  time,  even  though  the 
plant  be  in  full  bloom,  while  repotting  should  be  done 
when  the  plant  is  dormant,  as  it  is  likely  to  cause  the 
buds  to  blast  and  the  foliage  to  droop.  Plants  less 
than  a  year  old  are  better  shifted  than  repotted  — 
especially  such  as  have  neither  bloomed  nor  shown 
any  decided  tendency  to  rest.  After  blooming  and 
resting,  if  they  are  in  as  large  a  pot  as  you  care  to 
handle,  they  may  be  repotted  in  fresh  soil,  care  being 
taken  not  to  injure  the  roots,  while  dead  roots  should 


seven]        Cransplatitutg  57 

be  removed  with  the  shears.  When  a  plant  has  out- 
grown its  pot  and  it  is  inexpedient  to  give  it  a  larger 
one — especially  if  it  is  not  making  a  very  vigorous 
top  growth,  part  of  the  roots  may  be  removed  by  run- 
ning a  knife  down  on  two  sides  of  the  plant,  which 
should  not  be  disturbed  afterward  until  the  roots 
begin  to  grow  anew,  say,  in  three  or  four  weeks,  when 
it  may  be  repotted  with  good  rich  soil. 

In  shifting  plants  turn  them  out  of  the  pot  with- 
out disturbing  the  ball  of  earth.  This  may  be  done 
by  placing  the  hand  over  the  pot,  reversing  it  and  giv- 
ing it  a  sharp  tap  on  the  edge  of  the  table,  which  will 
loosen  it.  Sometimes,  when  a  plant  has  become  pot 
bound,  it  will  stick  to  the  sides  of  the  pot,  when  a 
stick  inserted  in  the  drainage  hole  against  the  stone 
in  the  bottom  will  usually  loosen  it.  Having  removed 
the  plant  from  the  pot,  take  out  the  old  drainage 
material  carefully,  place  in  a  pot  a  size  or  two  larger 
an  inch  or  two  of  broken  charcoal  covered  with  a  little 
sphagnum  moss  to  prevent  the  earth  working  into  the 
drainage  and  clogging  it.  Fill  in  as  much  earth  as 
the  difference  in  the  size  of  pot  seems  to  require,  work- 
ing it  well  up  around  the  sides  with  the  trowel ;  press 
the  old  pot  into  this  to  make  a  hole  the  proper  size 
and  shape ;  place  the  plant,  press  the  earth  around  it, 
and  add  more  if  needed.  Water  well  and  return  to 
its  place  on  the  shelf  or  in  the  sand-box. 

In  potting  some  plants  will  require  to  have  the  soil 
pressed  much  more  firmly  around  the  roots  than 


58  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

others.  Those  which  make  a  soft  growth,  such  as 
Impatiens  sultana,  various  Primulas,  Cinerarias,  and 
most  tuberous  plants,  like  Begonias  and  Gloxinias, 
may  be  potted  rather  loosely,  that  is,  with  the  earth 
pressed  down  lightly.  Geraniums  should  be  potted 
much  more  firmly,  while  such  hard-wooded  plants 
as  Roses,  Hibiscus,  Otaheite  Orange  and  Fuchsias, 
should  be  potted  very  hard  indeed.  Many  failures  in 
plant  growing  may  be  traced  to  neglect  of  this  rule. 

Cuttings  of  common  house-plants  are  so  easily 
rooted  that  it  seems  almost  superfluous  to  give  direc- 
tions for  handling  them.  Geraniums,  Petunias, 
Coleus,  and  the  like  will  rarely  fail  to  root  if  stuck 
in  the  ground  by  the  side  of  the  plant;  they  will  do 
still  better  if  placed  in  the  sand-box.  On  the  whole  I 
prefer  to  set  them  in  small  pots"  of  earth  plunged  in 
the  sand-box  and  kept  moist,  as  by  this  method  they  do 
not  suffer  the  shock  of  disturbance  when  ready  to  pot 
off. 

A  word  about  the  selection  of  cuttings  will  not  be 
amiss,  as  failure  to  choose  wisely  often  results  in  the 
loss  of  the  cutting,  or  in  a  poor  or  straggly  plant. 
Quick,  tender  growths  are  not  suitable  for  cuttings, 
except  in  the  case  of  the  Chinese  Hibiscus,  where  the 
extreme  tips  are  used  for  rooting;  hard  or  woody 
growths  are  equally  undesirable.  The  part  where 
the  new  wood  begins  to  harden  and  will  break  with 
a  snap  is  best.  No  cutting  should  be  over  two  or 
three  inches  long.  The  little,  stubby  side  branches 


seven]        Ctangplanttug 59 

on  Geraniums  are  best,  and  as  soon  as  growth  begins 
these  should  be  pinched  back  to  within  an  inch  of  the 
ground,  or  to  the  lowest  buds  on  the  stalks ;  this  in- 
sures a  stocky  plant,  branching  close  to  the  ground. 
Heliotropes  do  not  root  readily  and  should  be  started 
in  wet  sand  in  full  sunshine  and  covered  with  a  glass, 
which  should  be  lifted  occasionally  to  allow  the  sur- 
plus moisture  to  pass  off,  or  in  a  bottle  of  water  hung 
in  a  sunny  window.  Rose  cuttings  are  so  easily  and  so 
quickly  rooted  in  the  sand-box  that  it  seems  a  waste  of 
time  to  try  any  other  way.  In  cutting  Roses  for 
bouquets,  during  summer,  one  should  be  generous 
with  stems,  cutting  down  to  a  robust  leaf-bud  in  the 
axil  of  a  leaf.  After  the  Roses  have  faded  the  stems 
may  be  used  for  cuttings,  dividing  them  into  as  many 
lengths  as  the  buds  allow,  leaving  two  or  three  buds 
to  a  cutting.  By  this  method  one  may  have  a  large 
number  of  young  Rose  plants  with  little  trouble  and 
no  expense.  Coleus  cuttings  are  quickly  rooted  by 
putting  them  in  a  glass  dish  filled  with  water  and  set 
in  a  warm  place.  If  in  the  fall  it  is  desired  to  save 
choice  varieties  growing  on  the  lawn,  large  cuttings 
may  be  taken  of  the  finest  plants.  Grouped  together 
in  a  bowl,  they  are  sightly  and  root  readily.  As  the 
plants  begin  to  grow  they  are  likely  to  lose  their  large 
leaves — the  new  growths  starting  at  the  axils  of  these 
push  them  off — injuring  the  appearance  of  the  plant. 
They  should  be  potted  off  as  soon  as  possible,  the  tops 
pinched  out,  and  the  plant  encouraged  to  grow  vigor- 


60  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

ously.     To  this  end  a  warm,   even  temperature   is 
necessary,  sudden  chills  being  fatal. 

Gloxinias  may  be  started  in  the  sand-box  by  laying 
a  leaf  flat  on  the  sand,  in  partial  shade,  covering  the 
stem  end  with  the  sand.  A  callus  will  soon  form, 
followed  presently  by  a  bulb.  This  may  be  as  large 
as  a  hazel-nut  before  top  growth  begins.  When  tiny 
leaves  appear  the  plant  may  be  lifted  and  potted  and 
grown  until  it  blooms.  It  is  not  necessary  to  rest 
Gloxinias — either  from  seeds  or  cuttings — before  they 
have  bloomed.  Begonias  and  Achimenes  are  rooted 
in  the  same  way.  Umbrella-plants  are  started  by 
placing  face  down  in  a  dish  of  water  in  the  sun. 
Rubber  and  any  other  hard-wooded  plants  may  be 
rooted  by  making  an  incision  in  the  under  side  of 
a  branch  near  a  leaf,  at  a  point  where  the  wood  has 
begun  to  harden,  and  wrapping  the  wound  in  a  quan- 
tity of  sphagnum  moss,  kept  constantly  wet.  A 
thread  should  be  tied  to  the  branch  on  the  side  farthest 
from  the  main  stalk  and  attached  to  a  limb  above 
to  hold  the  cut  slightly  open  that  it  may  quickly  be- 
come calloused.  After  a  time  roots  will  make  their 
appearance  through  the  moss,  when  the  branch  may 
be  removed  and  potted.  A  method  sometimes  em- 
ployed, when  it  is  desired  to  save  the  crown  of  a 
plant  which  has  a  leggy  or  unshapely  undergrowth, 
is  to  partly  sever  the  stem  at  the  point  at  which  it 
is  desired  to  root  the  plant,  cutting  out  a  wedge-shaped 
piece  and  packing  with  sphagnum  moss.  Or  a  small 


WHEN    TWO    OR    THREE    INCHES    HIGH,    TRANSPLANT    CAR- 
NATIONS   INTO    POTS 


I 


AN    EASILY    MADE    CARNATION    SUPPORT 


Seven]  rattSpatltttg  6! 

flower-pot,  divided  in  halves,  may  be  fitted  around 
the  cut,  the  bottom  of  the  pot  resting  on  a  lower  limb 
or  other  support,  and  filled  with  earth  or  sand  kept 
constantly  moist. 

Cuttings  liable  to  decay,  as  are  some  of  the  Cacti, 
may  often  be  saved  by  tying  them  to  a  bit  of  wood 
and  inserting  that  in  the  ground  so  that  the  end  of 
the  cutting  just  rests  on  the  surface.  In  this  way  the 
air  will  reach  and  harden  it  so  that  a  callus  can  form. 
Without  the  formation  of  the  callus  the  sap  escapes 
and  the  branch  withers  or  decays.  When  the  callus 
forms  the  imprisoned  sap  goes  to  the  formation  of 
roots.  Some  plants  form  more  pronounced  calluses 
than  others — particularly  the  Gloxinia  and  Rose. 

Layering  is  another  form  of  rooting  cuttings,  and 
is  especially  valuable  for  Carnations,  Honeysuckles, 
and  plants  whose  branches  grow  near  the  ground  or 
are  supple  enough  to  be  bent  down  below  its  level.  A 
cut  should  be  made  in  the  under  side  of  a  branch  just 
below  a  joint,  the  cut  portion  brought  down  below 
the  ground  to  insure  moisture,  and  bent  sufficiently  to 
spread  the  cut  somewhat,  or  it  may  be  laid  on  the 
surface  and  a  stone  placed  at  the  point  of  the  cut. 
From  a  long  branch  like  the  Honeysuckle  a  number 
of  cuttings  may  be  started  at  once  by  notching  the 
branch  in  several  places  and  pegging  it  down,  making 
the  ground  higher  between  each  notch  that  there  may 
be  sufficient  bend  to  the  branch  to  keep  the  cut  open. 


Chapter  EIGHT 


RAISING   house-plants   from   seed  is   a 
most  fascinating  work,  and  it  is  also 
the  most  economical  way  of  obtaining 
a  number  of  choice  plants,  as  a  packet 
of  seeds  may  be  purchased   for  the 
price  of  a  single  plant.    A  package  of  Geranium  seed 
may  give  a  dozen  plants,  while  a  packet  of  Gloxinias 
or  Cinerarias  may  give  a  hundred  or  more  —  the  fine 
seed  germinating  more  freely  than  the  large. 

Mixed  seeds  also  give  a  variety,  no  two  plants  being 
identical  in  bloom,  and,  what  is  most  important,  seed- 
lings always  bloom,  while  plants  from  cuttings  are 
often  stubborn  in  this  respect  and  sometimes  refuse 
to  bloom  at  all,  owing  probably  to  the  check  received 
at  propagation.  A  cutting  taken  from  a  vigorous 
plant,  rooting  quickly,  and  continuing  to  grow,  is 
quite  certain  to  bloom  —  while  the  reverse  is  the  case 
with  one  slow  to  root  and  slow  to  start  into  growth 
after  rooting.  The  seedling,  meeting  with  no  check, 
blossoms  in  the  natural  course,  and  it  has  the  ad^ 

6ft 


vantage  of  growing  from  the  start  in  the  same  atmos- 
pheric conditions,  and  does  not  suffer  the  violent 
change  from  the  moist,  warm  air  of  the  greenhouse 
into  the  dryer,  more  uneven  temperature  of  the  living- 
room. 

By  sowing  seed  one  obtains  a  number  of  plants  with 
the  same  season  of  bloom,  making  a  finer  appearance 
than  mixed  plants  blooming  at  different  times.  A  half 
dozen  Cinerarias  or  Calceolarias  in  full  bloom  is  a 
sight  to  gladden  the  heart  of  the  gardener. 

In  giving  the  following  cultural  details  I  have 
selected  those  seeds  which  are  always  carried  in  stock 
and  may  be  depended  upon  to  give  good  results  in  the 
hands  of  the  amateur.  Unless  some  one  particular 
colour  or  marking  is  desired  it  is  better  to  purchase 
the  mixed  seed — selecting  always  the  finest,  or  "extra 
choice  mixed,"  which  will  also  be  the  highest  priced. 
Never  buy  cheap  seed  for  house-plants.  Exception 
may,  perhaps,  be  made  in  the  case  of  Primroses,  which 
are  more  inclined  to  come  true,  and  it  is,  for  this 
reason,  better  to  purchase  any  particular  colours  one 
may  wish  in  separate  packets.  Some  seedsmen  now 
put  up  expensive  seeds  in  whole  and  half-sized  packets, 
and  the  half  packets  will  usually  give  all  the  plants 
needed  of  one  kind.  The  mystery  of  tint  and  colour, 
only  to  be  revealed  at  blossom  time,  is  one  of  the 
greatest  charms  of  growing  mixed  seedlings. 

The  Abutilons,  or  Flowering  Maples,  if  set  going 
any  time  before  April  will  flower  the  same  season. 


64  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

Start  in  the  house  in  flats,  and  when  large  enough  to 
handle  transplant  into  tiny  pots  in  a  hotbed  or  sunny 
window  and  grow  on  until  time  to  plant  in  the  open 
ground,  shifting  as  required.  They  may  also  be 
started  in  the  hotbed,  or  in  a  protected  bed  in  the 
open  ground  when  the  trees  are  in  bloom.  Set  from 
one  to  two  feet  apart,  according  as  a  close  hedge  or 
fine  specimen  plants  are  required.  The  new  California 
Abutilons  present  a  great  diversity  of  form  and  colour 
— there  are  beautiful  drooping  bells,  gay  little  para- 
chutes, flowers  crinkled  like  crape  or  shining  like  satin, 
some  so  full  as  to  appear  double.  They  should  be 
cultivated  frequently  if  grown  in  the  open  ground 
and  potted  before  the  nights  become  cold,  as  a  chill 
is  often  as  harmful  as  frost,  and  plants  so  exposed  are 
likely  to  lose  their  foliage.  Plants  intended  for  winter 
blooming  should  be  lifted  while  the  days  and  nights 
are  still  warm. 

Asparagus  plumosus  nanus  and  A.  Sprengeri  (em- 
erald feather)  may  be  started  any  time  in  the  late 
winter  or  early  spring.  The  seeds  are  large  and 
should  be  planted  in  rows  an  inch  apart  each  way, 
pressing  them  into  the  soil  a  quarter  of  an  inch  and 
covering  them  over.  They  germinate  in  about  twenty- 
one  days,  and  require  no  especial  care  other  than  to 
be  kept  moist  and  fairly  warm.  When  an  inch  high 
transplant  to  thumb-pots,  using  the  fine  compost. 
Shift  as  often  as  necessary;  all  Asparagus — especially 
the  Sprengeri — are  greatly  benefited  by  frequent  re- 


65 


potting.     Spray  frequently,  keep  moist  always,  and 
give  liquid  manure  once  a  week  while  growing. 

A.  Sprengeri  grows  rapidly  and  is  the  most  easily 
managed  of  all  varieties.  It  needs,  however,  abun- 
dant root  room,  and  where  that  is  restricted  must  be 
given  some  kind  of  plant-food.  It  is  the  plant  most 
used  for  hanging-baskets.  A  basket  of  three  two- 
year-old  seedlings  is  a  thing  of  beauty,  throwing  off 
wonderful  fronds  —  even  in  the  dry  air  of  a  sitting- 
room  heated  with  a  coal-stove.  They  should  be  given 
a  chance  to  rest  during  the  summer  by  setting  in  a 
cool,  shady  place,  watering  sparingly.  When  the 
plant  shows  signs  of  renewed  growth  repot,  giving  a 
larger  pot  if  necessary,  or,  if  two  or  three  plants  have 
been  growing  in  one  basket  they  may  be  separated 
and  given  more  room.  An  elongated  tuber  is  formed 
on  the  roots,  which  stores  nourishment  —  like  the 
nodules  on  the  Clematis  and  Clover  roots.  It  is  use- 
less for  propagating  purposes,  and  should  not  be  dis- 
turbed. A  basket  or  a  pot  on  a  bracket  or  pedestal  is 
the  only  way  in  which  to  grow  A.  Sprengeri  success- 
fully, while  A.  plumosus  nanus  succeeds  best  in  deep 
pots,  as  it  sends  its  roots  far  down,  often  pushing 
its  crown  well  above  the  soil  in  this  way.  A.  plumosus 
sends  out  fronds  several  feet  long,  and  is  best  adapted 
for  growing  on  strings.  A  deep  pot  on  a  north  or 
east  window-sill  suits  it  well,  provided  it  is  not  too 
cool,  and  fine  spool-wire  makes  a  neat  support  and  is 
almost  invisible. 


66  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

The  seeds  of  Rex  and  other  Begonias  are  so  fine  as 
to  look  like  dust.  They  should  be  sown  on  the  surface 
of  the  soil,  in  flats  in  the  house,  in  February  or  March, 
and  an  even  temperature  maintained.  They  germi- 
nate in  eight  or  ten  days,  and  the  greatest  care  is  re- 
quired to  keep  the  tender  seedlings  from  damping  off 
or  drying  out.  The  tiny  plants  appear  first  as  a  vague 
green  bloom  on  the  face  of  the  soil,  and  a  magnifying 
glass  is  necessary  to  show  that  each  infinitesimal  green 
point  is  possessed  of  a  pair  of  leaves.  From  this  time 
on  it  is  a  delight  to  watch  the  development  of  char- 
acter in  the  leaf — quite  tiny  plants  showing  different 
markings.  I  have  never  raised  two  Rex  Begonias 
exactly  alike.  When  the  little  plants  are  large  enough 
to  handle  prick  them  out  into  other  flats,  setting  them 
an  inch  apart  each  way.  When  an  inch  high  put  into 
two-inch  pots  of  leaf-mould,  and  plunge  the  pots  in  a 
pan  of  wet  sand  in  a  cool,  north  window  where  bulbs 
are  growing,  if  possible,  as  the  constant  evaporation 
from  these  keeps  the  air  moist.  This  is  an  important 
consideration  in  the  culture  of  Begonias,  and  in  winter 
water  should  be  kept  on  stove,  radiator  or  register  to 
supply  moisture.  Among  the  fine  bedding,  fibrous- 
rooted  Begonias  the  new  Vulcan,  a  fiery  scarlet;  Ver- 
non,  a  deep  red;  Erfordii,  a  soft  pink,  and  the  dwarf 
Bijou  are  the  best.  By  starting  these  during  January 
and  February  in  flats  in  the  house  they  may  be  bedded 
out  in  early  summer.  If  planted  in  the  house  in 
January,  transplanted  to  flats,  and  thence  to  the  hot- 


Eight]         f|ousie=plants  67 

bed  when  it  is  emptied  after  the  2Oth  of  May,  and 
partly  shaded,  they  will  be  fine,  robust  plants  by 
August,  and  may  be  used  to  replace  the  Pansies  when 
it  is  not  desired  to  carry  these  through  the  summer. 
If  one  has  a  sufficient  number  of  pots,  pot  and  plunge 
in  the  hotbed  and  they  will  not  be  set  back  by  trans- 
planting, but  they  must  be  plunged  to  the  rim.  They 
should  be  shifted  when  necessary,  duly  mulched,  and 
not  allowed  to  dry  out. 

Nothing  finer  than  the  tuberous  Begonias  can  be 
desired  either  for  bedding  or  for  pot  culture.  The 
single  are  perhaps  showier  for  bedding,  but  the  double 
are  handsomer  for  pot  culture.  They  do  admirably 
bedded  out  in  a  shady  corner,  or  in  pots  in  the  sand- 
box. Peat,  or  a  compost  of  two  parts  loam,  two  parts 
leaf-mould,  and  one  part  each  of  sand  and  old,  well- 
rotted  manure  suits  all  varieties  of  Begonias.  In  set- 
ting out  the  tuberous  Begonia  it  is  well  to  mulch  the 
bed  with  lawn  clippings.  Water  thoroughly  once  a 
day,  and,  if  very  dry,  or  at  all  exposed  to  the  sun, 
twice  a  day.  So  really  wonderful  are  their  blossoms, 
and  so  long  and  freely  do  they  bloom,  that  they  well 
repay  a  little  extra  care  and  protection.  When  frosty 
nights  come  the  tuberous  Begonias  must  be  lifted, 
potted  and  kept  indoors  until  they  have  completed 
their  season  of  growth.  Then  water  should  be  gradu- 
ally cut  off  and  the  pots  stored  away  in  a  dark,  warm 
closet  until  spring,  or  if  there  are  too  many  Begonias 
to  pot  they  may  be  ripened  off  at  once  by  putting  on  a 


68  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

tray  of  damp  earth  with  the  roots  covered,  and  allow- 
ing them  to  dry  gradually.  When  dry  the  tubers  may 
be  removed,  wrapped  separately  in  tissue-paper  and 
stored  in  a  dry,  fairly  warm  place — a  shelf  in  a  closet 
or  a  drawer. 

Probably  no  greenhouse  flower  is  as  little  known 
or  repays  acquaintance  as  royally  as  the  Calceolaria. 
Of  infinite  variety,  its  showy  purse-shaped  flowers 
range  from  a  rare  pure  white  through  all  the  shades 
of  pale  lemon,  orange,  and  scarlet  to  a  deep,  rich,  vel- 
vety cardinal.  It  is  one  of  the  most  easily  cultivated 
of  house-plants.  The  seed  is  fine  like  the  Begonia, 
is  handled  in  the  same  way,  and  germinates  in  eight  or 
ten  days.  Shift  as  often  as  the  pot  fills  with  roots, 
using  a  size  larger  each  time  and  disturbing  the  roots 
as  little  as  possible.  Rather  more  loam  than  leaf- 
mould  is  used  in  potting  them.  Keep  in  an  east  window 
in  winter,  where  there  is  good  morning  sunlight  and 
a  temperature  of  at  least  60  degrees.  The  air  should 
be  kept  moist,  either  from  blossoming  bulbs  or  dishes 
of  water  on  the  stove.  In  a  dry  atmosphere  it  is  liable 
to  attacks  of  red  spider,  which  greatly  mar  the  foliage. 
The  remedy  or  preventive  measure  is  fresh  air  and 
moisture.  Keep  the  soil  moist  but  not  wet.  When 
the  flower-buds  appear  slightly  increase  the  supply 
of  water  and  give  a  little  manure  once  a  week.  The 
large  felty  leaves  grow  so  thick  and  close  that  when 
the  buds  appear,  to  prevent  injury  from  lack  of  light 
it  may  be  necessary  to  remove  a  few  leaves.  If  kept 


growing  vigorously  and  shifted  frequently,  plants 
should  be  in  five-inch  pots  by  February  and  coming 
into  bloom.  When  in  full  bloom  it  is  well  to  remove 
to  a  cool  room,  where  the  blossoms  will  last  for  weeks. 
Cuttings  may  be  taken  when  they  are  through  bloom- 
ing, but  I  think  it  best  to  begin  afresh  each  year  with 
seed. 

Cinerarias  make  fine,  large  plants,  as  broad  as  they 
are  high,  their  rich,  velvety  leaves  showing  on  the  un- 
der side  wonderful  colourings  of  green  and  lavender, 
purple  and  plum.  The  large  heads  of  single  daisy- 
like  flowers  show  many  shades  of  white,  lavender, 
crimson,  purple,  and  maroon.  Most  of  the  varieties 
have  a  dark  eye  and  are  sharply  margined  with  some 
contrasting  color.  The  seed  is  fine  and  is  simply 
pressed  into  the  soil.  It  germinates  in  from  five  to 
seven  days,  and  requires  little  heat.  As  the  plants  are 
rather  difficult  to  carry  through  the  hot  weather  it  is 
better  to  defer  sowing  until  August.  Their  growth  is 
rapid  if  given  a  cool,  moist  atmosphere,  but  a  draught 
is  most  injurious  and  care  must  be  taken  never  to  over- 
water  them.  They  like  a  moist,  but  never  wet,  soil,  fre- 
quently stirred  when  there  is  any  sign  of  damping  off. 
They  may  be  carried  through  an  unusually  hot  spell 
in  a  cool  north  or  east  cellar  window,  always  avoiding 
draughts.  In  winter  an  east  window  suits  them  best, 
with  abundant  room  to  develop  their  leaves.  They 
are  an  exceedingly  ornamental  plant  even  without  the 
flowers.  The  shady  side  of  the  sand-box  is  the  best 


70  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

place  for  them  in  summer.  They  need  frequent  shift- 
ing, and  by  winter  should  be  in  five-inch  pots.  After 
the  buds  appear  give  liquid  manure  once  a  week.  The 
utmost  care  must  be  taken  to  guard  against  aphides 
or  green  plant-lice,  which  are  absolutely  fatal  if  al- 
lowed to  gain  any  foothold.  The  prevention  is  plenty 
of  fresh  air  and  tobacco-dust  sprinkled  on  the  leaves, 
which  mars  their  beauty.  The  remedy — dipping  in 
water  heated  to  about  135  degrees,  or  brushing  off  the 
lice  and  killing  them. 

Carnations  are  the  most  easily  grown  of  all  desir- 
able house-plants.  If  planted  in  drills  in  the  hotbed 
in  April,  or  in  the  open  ground  when  the  trees  are  in 
leaf,  they  will  bloom  in  about  four  months.  For  out- 
door blooming  the  Marguerite  Carnations  are  usually 
selected,  and  the  Giant  of  California  is  a  new  and 
choice  variety  of  this  popular  strain.  The  seed  is 
sown  an  eighth  of  an  inch  deep,  the  plants  appearing 
in  from  five  to  seven  days.  When  large  enough  to 
handle  transplant  into  fresh  rows  in  hotbed  or  flats, 
setting  them  an  inch  or  two  apart  each  way.  When 
they  are  two  or  three  inches  high  prick  off  into  pots 
filled  with  three  parts  good  loam  and  one  of  leaf- 
mould  and  plunge  back  into  the  hotbed.  When  the 
weather  is  warm  enough  set  them  in  well-prepared 
beds  of  loam,  enriched  with  a  liberal  quantity  of  well- 
rotted  manure,  planting  them  a  foot  apart  each  way. 
Cultivate  frequently  during  summer  to  keep  them  free 
from  weeds.  A  little  soot  and  ashes  added  to  the  soil 


Eight] 


between  the  rows  will  heighten  the  colour  of  flowers 
and  foliage  and  add  stiffness  to  the  flower-stems.  The 
ashes  will  also  counteract  the  tendency  to  burst  the 
calyx,  so  troublesome  in  the  Carnation.  Plants  in- 
tended for  winter  blooming  should  have  all  the  buds 
removed  during  the  summer,  up  to  the  first  of  Sep- 
tember. 

Only  a  few  flowers  will  be  obtained  in  the  open 
ground  the  first  year,  but  if  the  plants  are  protected 
during  the  winter  they  will  bloom  freely  the  second 
season.  While  blooming  no  seed  should  be  allowed 
to  form,  and  if  size  and  quality  are  desired  more  than 
profusion  of  bloom,  all  but  the  terminal  buds  on  each 
stalk  should  be  removed.  This  is  the  method  em- 
ployed by  florists  to  produce  their  long-stemmed  beau- 
ties. Dig  in  the  second  summer  a  little  old  manure 
between  the  rows  and  sprinkle  ashes  there.  A  mulch 
of  two  or  three  inches  of  lawn  clippings  between  the 
plants  will  hold  the  moisture  so  that  cultivation  will 
not  be  necessary.  Fresh  Carnation  seed  should  be 
sown  each  spring,  that  there  may  always  be  blossom- 
ing plants  and  the  bed  made  perpetual.  Carnations 
will  not  stand  the  second  winter,  hence  the  need  of 
young  plants  to  renew  the  bed. 

If  it  is  desired  to  perpetuate  any  variety  cuttings 
may  be  taken,  or  the  plants  may  be  increased  by  layer- 
ing. Branches  from  each  plant  may  be  pegged  down 
between  the  rows,  equal  distances  apart,  severed  from 
the  old  plants  when  sufficiently  established,  and  al- 


72  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

lowed  to  remain  when  the  old  plants  are  removed  in 
the  fall  or  following  spring.  The  bed  will,  in  this 
way,  perpetuate  itself;  but  cuttings  from  the  same 
plants  deteriorate  in  two  or  three  years,  and  fresh 
seed  should  be  sown  every  two  years  at  least. 

In  growing  winter  Carnations  for  the  house  shift 
them  as  often  as  the  growth  of  the  plant  requires, 
using  three  parts  loam,  one  part  leaf-mould,  and  one 
part  each  of  sharp  sand  and  old  manure.  When  ready 
to  bloom  they  should  be  in  five-  or  six-inch  pots.  They 
require  an  atmosphere  cooler  than  that  of  the  ordinary 
living-room.  A  south  window  away  from  direct  fire, 
where  the  temperature  stands  at  50  or  55  degrees,  is 
best.  Water  thoroughly,  but  allow  the  soil  to  nearly 
dry  out  before  watering  again.  If  possible  sprinkle 
the  foliage  every  day  and  watch  carefully  for  green  fly 
and  red  spider;  though  there  is  less  danger  of  their 
appearance  in  a  cool  room  than  in  the  hot,  dry  air  of 
the  living-room.  When  the  flower-stalks  appear  they 
will  need  support,  which  may  be  supplied  by  placing 
three  or  four  sticks  or  cat-tails  at  the  side  of  the  pot 
and  twisting  strings  around  them,  back  and  forth, 
forming  a  frame  around  the  plant.  There  is  an  ex- 
cellent Carnation  frame  on  the  market,  costing  a  few 
cents,  which  is  similar  but  much  neater.  Stakes  thrust 
into  the  ground  near  the  crown  of  a  plant  are  apt  to 
injure  it,  and  must  be  used  carefully  if  at  all;  the 
finer  the  point  on  the  stake  the  less  damage  done. 
Should  green  lice  or  flies  appear  syringe  the  plants 


Eight]  ou^pan  73 

with  tobacco  tea,  or  fumigate  with  tobacco,  leaving 
them  in  the  smoke  long  enough  to  insure  success.  Or 
the  plant  may  be  dipped  in  hot  water  at  about  130 
degrees ;  this  will  kill  all  insects  or  eggs. 

Cyperus,  or  Umbrella-plant,  may  be  easily  raised 
from  cuttings,  but  it  is  sometimes  desirable  to  have  a 
number  of  plants  for  aquatic  gardening,  and  growing 
from  seed  is  an  economy.  The  seeds  should  be  sown 
in  flats  and  kept  warm ;  they  germinate  in  about  ten 
days,  coming  up  very  freely.  As  many  as  three  hun- 
dred plants  have  been  secured  from  one  packet.  Prick 
the  seedlings  out  into  larger  flats  as  soon  as  they  are 
big  enough  to  handle,  and  when  two  or  three  inches 
high  pot  them  off  into  two-  or  three-inch  pots  of  muck, 
plunging  into  wet  sand  and  keeping  constantly  moist. 
Shift  them  as  the  pots  fill  with  roots,  and  by  the  time 
the  plants  are  in  four-inch  pots  the  water  should  be 
kept  standing  in  the  saucer  all  the  time.  When  they 
attain  proper  size  they  should  be  grown  in  a  jardiniere 
or  other  vessel  holding  water,  or  else  the  pot  in  which 
they  grow  should  be  plunged  in  water.  The  Cyperus, 
being  a  semi-aquatic  plant,  cannot  have  too  much 
water;  the  lack  is  quickly  shown  by  the  leaf-tips  turn- 
ing brown.  Two  plants  kept  fairly  wet  in  pots,  but 
plainly  suffering,  so  were  plunged  into  a  lily-tank;  in  a 
few  days  the  roots  had  pressed  to  the  surface  in  search 
of  water,  and  hung,  a  perfect  fringe,  over  the  edge 
of  the  pots.  The  effect  on  the  tops  was  as  pro- 
nounced— the  crown  quickly  sending  up  lush  green 


74  T*he  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

umbrellas  in  striking  contrast  to  the  discolouration  of 
the  original  plants.  There  are  two  varieties  of  the 
Umbrella-plant — a  dwarf,  growing  not  more  than 
eighteen  inches  high,  and  a  tall  variety  growing  three 
or  four  feet;  the  former  is  prettier  for  table  decora- 
tions, while  the  latter  is  more  effective  for  pedestals 
in  halls  and  drawing-rooms.  Remove  all  weak  or 
spindly  umbrellas  and  all  discoloured  ones ;  it  is  also 
well  to  remove  the  flowers,  as  seeding  injures  the  plant. 
Cyclamen  may  be  started  in  flats  or  in  a  cool  hotbed 
from  January  to  March,  pressing  the  seed  into  the  soil 
about  twice  their  depth.  They  must  be  kept  moist, 
not  wet,  all  the  time.  They  do  not  require  as  much 
heat  as  the  Calceolaria,  but  the  temperature  must  be 
kept  as  even  as  possible.  The  seed  germinates  in  from 
two  to  four  weeks,  according  to  its  vitality.  It  is  best 
to  start  them  in  large  flats  and  let  them  grow  on  un- 
disturbed. About  the  last  of  May  remove  them  to  a 
cold-frame  on  the  east  side  of  the  house,  disturbing 
the  roots  as  little  as  possible,  and  setting  the  plants 
about  eight  inches  apart  each  way.  Keep  the  soil 
moist  and  mellow  by  frequent  cultivation,  or  by 
mulching  it  with  sphagnum  moss  or  lawn  clippings. 
When  the  plants  have  attained  some  size  give  weak 
liquid  manure  once  a  week,  pouring  it  in  a  shallow 
trench  between  the  rows,  that  it  may  not  touch  the 
bulbs  or  foliage.  Treated  in  this  way  they  should 
be  ready  to  bloom  by  winter;  if  grown  in  pots  they 
will  not  bloom  until  the  second  season.  When  cold 


75 


weather  comes  lift  the  plants  and  put  in  four-  or  five- 
inch  pots,  according  to  size,  using  good  garden  loam 
and  one-  fourth  the  quantity  of  old,  well-rotted  ma- 
nure. They  should  be  grown  in  a  cool  east  room  and 
syringed  daily. 

In  the  spring  after  blooming  withhold  water  gradu- 
ally, giving  no  more  than  will  keep  the  roots  from 
drying  out,  and  set  them  in  a  cool,  shady  place  during 
the  summer  —  the  rear  of  the  sand-box  is  best,  where 
other  growths  will  protect  them  from  the  sun.  In 
continuous  wet  weather  they  should  be  turned  on 
their  sides  or  otherwise  protected  from  extreme  moist- 
ure. When  they  show  an  inclination  to  grow  again, 
if  they  are  in  large  enough  pots,  remove  as  much  of 
the  top-soil  as  possible  without  disturbing  the  roots, 
and  replace  it  with  fresh,  rich  earth  and  old  manure. 
If  the  plants  are  crowded  with  roots  remove  them 
into  pots  one  or  two  sizes  larger.  Give  them  a  good 
watering  and  set  in  a  somewhat  lighter  and  warmer 
position.  Cyclamen  bulbs,  like  the  Amaryllis,  should 
not  be  allowed  to  dry  out  entirely,  as  this  destroys 
the  roots,  and  when  the  top  growth  starts  in  advance 
of  the  root  growth,  as  is  usual,  the  plant  will  die  from 
insufficient  nourishment.  Florists  frequently  send  out 
dry  bulbs  with  flower-buds  half  an  inch  long  and  no 
sign  of  roots;  such  bulbs  rarely  amount  to  anything. 
When  obliged  to  start  a  dry  bulb,  it  is  better  to  sink 
it  half  way  in  the  soil  and  cover  with  sphagnum  moss. 
Set  it  in  a  dry,  cool  place,  and  examine  it  from  time 


76  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

to  time  that  it  may  not  be  kept  back  longer  than  neces- 
sary. The  starting  of  leaves  is  a  fair  indication  of 
root  growth,  as  the  premature  growth  is  usually  of 
buds. 

Geraniums  are  as  easily  raised  as  Carnations — in- 
deed, it  seems  only  necessary  to  put  them  in  the  ground 
and  await  results.  In  the  spring  sow  the  seed  in  drills 
in  hotbeds  or  flats,  covering  with  an  eighth  of  an  inch 
of  soil.  The  plants  should  appear  in  from  ten  to 
fifteen  days,  and  if  they  do  not  stand  too  closely  may 
be  allowed  to  grow  on  until  they  have  two  or  three 
leaves.  If  mixed  seeds  are  sown  of  the  fancy-leaved, 
the  scented,  the  zonale  and  the  Lady  Washington,  the 
development  of  the  several  kinds  will  afford  a  fasci- 
nating study. 

Care  should  be  taken  to  save  the  more  delicate-look- 
ing seedlings,  as  these  will  give  the  choicest  varieties; 
the  more  robust  plants  among  the  zonales  indicate  a 
retrogression  toward  the  original  type,  which  has 
scarlet  blooms.  All  choice  new  Geraniums  are  pro- 
duced by  seeds  from  hybridised  flowers.  Pot  off  the 
last  of  May  in  three-inch  pots,  using  good  garden 
loam  and  well-rotted  manure.  Pot  them  rather  firmly 
and  plunge  into  the  sand-box  in  full  sunshine.  Water 
thoroughly  and  allow  the  soil  to  become  dry  before 
watering  again;  this  tends  to  harden  the  new  growth 
and  makes  the  plants  stocky.  Nip  out  the  top  of  the 
plants,  forcing  them  to  break  or  make  new  branches 
near  the  ground.  The  nearer  the  ground  a  Geranium 


branches  the  better  plant  it  will  make.  Pinch  off  the 
shoots  as  they  appear,  allowing  them  to  grow  only 
three  or  four  inches  long.  Remove  all  buds  that  ap- 
pear before  fall  and  shift  to  larger  pots  if  needed, 
though  Geraniums  do  not  need  as  much  pot  room 
when  blooming  as  many  other  flowers.  Give  liquid 
manure  once  a  week  after  the  buds  appear — before 
that  time  the  use  of  fertilisers  encourages  the  produc- 
tion of  foliage  rather  than  of  flowers. 

Zonales  should  bloom  by  February  and  Pelargoni- 
ums by  March  or  April  the  first  year.  They  should 
be  watered  more  freely  when  in  bloom.  Geraniums 
should  be  grown  close  to  the  glass  to  give  best  results. 
In  prolonged  cloudy  weather  the  buds  will  blast  and 
the  new  growth  look  sickly  in  spite  of  all  care.  Pe- 
largoniums are  very  satisfactory  when  raised  from 
seed,  showing  great  diversity  of  colour  and  markings. 
When  they  have  finished  blooming  in  the  spring  cut 
them  back  freely,  using  the  cuttings  for  new  plants. 
The  old  plants  should  be  set  in  the  shade  to  rest  and 
watered  sparingly.  At  the  end  of  that  time  they  may 
be  brought  into  the  sunlight  or  plunged  into  open 
ground  and  encouraged  to  grow  freely.  Removing 
a  portion  of  the  leaves  at  this  time — every  other  one, 
for  instance — will  cause  new  shoots  to  break  at  the 
axils  of  the  leaves,  and  every  new  shoot  means  new 
blossom  points.  By  the  middle  of  September  the 
plants  should  be  lifted,  cut  back  to  the  point  where 
the  wood  begins  to  harden,  and  given  a  warm,  sunny 


78  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

window.  Cuttings  started  in  spring,  if  shifted,  kept 
growing  and  pinched  back  occasionally,  should  be  in 
splendid  condition  for  early  spring  blooming.  In 
growing  Geraniums  never  lose  sight  of  the  fact  that 
stocky,  many-branched  plants  give  flowers  in  abun- 
dance ;  tall,  spindly  plants  the  reverse.  A  Geranium 
should  always  be  as  broad  as  it  is  high  to  be  at  its 
best.  Iv.y  Geraniums  need  extra  care  to  keep  them 
low  and  stocky.  Water  sparingly  and  give  abundant 
sunshine  if  you  wish  these  to  bloom. 

Geranium  seeds  come  up  very  irregularly,  so  that 
it  is  well  not  to  disturb  the  ground  for  some  time  after 
the  proper  season  of  germination  has  passed.  In  this 
way  many  extra  plants  are  secured. 

Gloxinias 

LIKE  all  fine  seeds  the  Gloxinias  often  give  a  sur- 
prising number  of  plants  from  a  single  packet. 
The  seed  is  sown  on  the  surface  of  small  flats  in  the 
house  and  the  plants  appear  in  about  ten  days.  They 
are  very  tender  at  first  and  must  be  protected  from 
undue  heat,  moisture,  cold  or  draughts.  They  may  be 
potted  when  large  enough  and  plunged  in  the  shady 
side  of  the  sand-box,  in  a  cold-frame,  on  the  east  side 
of  the  house,  or  in  a  shady  corner  in  the  open  ground, 
where  they  will  be  protected  from  the  sun  during  the 
hottest  part  of  the  day.  Keep  the  soil  constantly 
moist;  a  light  mulch  of  sphagnum  moss  or  lawn  clip- 


Eight]         House-plants  79 

pings  will  keep  it  in  proper  condition.  Avoid  wetting 
the  foliage  and  as  far  as  possible  touching  it.  The 
stems  of  both  leaf  and  blossom  are  very  brittle  and  the 
slightest  blow  may  deprive  one  of  a  cherished  blos- 
som. For  this  reason  I  like  to  grow  them  by  them- 
selves and  use  a  mulch  instead  of  cultivation.  So 
much  of  the  beauty  of  the  plant  depends  upon  the 
perfection  of  the  foliage  that  every  effort  should  be 
made  to  preserve  it.  In  setting  or  potting  Gloxinias 
the  crown  of  the  bulb  should  be  above  the  earth,  the 
soil  should  slope  to  the  rim  of  the  pot,  that  no  water 
may  settle  about  the  crown  and  rot  it.  The  plants 
may  remain  in  the  hotbed  or  other  quarters  until  the 
approach  of  frost,  when  they  must  be  shifted  into 
larger  pots  and  given  a  position  in  an  east  window 
with  plenty  of  light.  Gloxinias,  if  kept  growing  vig- 
orously and  shifted  frequently,  should  bloom  the  fol- 
lowing season.  Some  florists  advise  resting  the  bulb 
the  first  winter,  but  this,  I  think,  is  a  mistake;  the 
plant  has  done  nothing  to  require  a  rest,  nor  has  the 
bulb  gained  sufficient  size  to  live  without  nourish- 
ment for  any  length  of  time,  so  that  drying  off  is 
likely  to  result  disastrously.  After  the  Gloxinia  has 
completed  its  period  of  bloom  water  should  be  grad- 
ually withheld  and  the  foliage  allowed  to  ripen. 
The  bulbs  may  then  be  set  away  in  their  pots  in  a 
warm,  dry  place,  until  the  following  spring;  or,  if 
grown  in  hotbeds,  they  may  be  dried  off  by  with- 
holding water  until  the  foliage  ripens,  when  they  may 


8o  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

be  lifted,  wrapped  in  cotton-wool  or  tissue-paper,  and 
stored  in  a  dry,  fairly  warm  place  during  the  winter. 

Heliotropes 

ARE  more  easily  raised  from  seed  than  from  cut- 
tings, which  require  special  care.  Several  of 
the  new  varieties,  like  Lemoine's  seedlings,  give  ex- 
ceptionally large  and  early  flowers,  ranging  in  colour 
from  pure  white  through  all  the  shades  of  lavender, 
purple,  and  blue  to  deep  indigo.  If  wanted  for  win- 
ter blooming  the  seed  may  be  sown  any  time  during 
the  spring,  but  for  bedding  out  it  should  be  sown  in 
February  or  March,  and  the  plants  duly  potted  off 
and  plunged  in  a  box  of  sand  in  a  warm,  sunny  win- 
dow, or  a  hotbed,  until  it  is  time  to  bed  them  out 
in  the  open  ground.  The  compost  should  contain  a 
large  proportion  of  leaf-mould — three-fourths  mould 
and  one-fourth  loam  and  sharp  sand. 

The  seeds  of  Heliotrope  must  be  kept  merely  moist, 
never  wet  and  never  allowed  to  dry  out,  or  they  will 
not  sprout;  keeping  the  soil  just  on  the  verge  of  dry- 
ing out,  yet  never  allowing  it  to  do  so,  is  the  whole 
secret  of  starting  Heliotrope  from  seeds.  It  is  best 
to  sow  the  seed  in  moist  soil  to  avoid  the  necessity 
of  watering  afterward,  as  is  done  with  other  seeds; 
if  the  soil  is  just  wet  enough  to  be  crumbly,  neither 
wet  nor  sticky,  and  can  be  kept  so,  they  will  prosper. 
Cover  the  seed  lightly  with  white  sand  and  remove 


OUTSIDE    WINDOW-BOXES 


the  glass  if  any  appreciable  moisture  appears — any- 
thing more  than  a  fine  mist.  It  germinates  in  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  days,  and  the  plants  require  no  spe- 
cial care  beyond  good  soil,  warmth,  and  plenty  of 
sunshine  with  frequent  waterings.  When  grown  as 
house-plants  they  should  be  showered  once  or  twice 
a  day  to  prevent  the  inroads  of  the  red  spider — their 
worst  enemy. 

There  is  no  more  desirable  bedding  plant  than  the 
Heliotrope,  and  the  more  freely  it  is  cut  by  removing 
generous  portions  of  stem  with  the  blossom  the  more 
freely  it  will  bloom.  It  is  admirable  for  replacing 
Pansies  and  may  be  grown  on  in  the  hotbed  until  the 
Pansy's  day  is  past.  Where  there  is  not  enough 
Heliotrope  for  large  bedding  operations,  purple  Ager- 
atum  may  be  combined  with  the  Heliotrope  with  ex- 
cellent effect;  this  is  a  method  often  employed  in  the 
city  parks,  and  when  judiciously  done  one  scarcely 
notices  that  the  beds  are  not  all  Heliotrope.  Plants 
may  be  taken  up  in  the  fall  and  cut  back  for  winter 
blooming.  Blossoms  always  form  on  the  terminals  of 
the  branches. 

Lantanas 

ARE    hard-wooded,    shrubby   plants,    the   leaves 
more  or  less  rough  and  prickly.    The  colours 
range  from  pure  white  through  various  shades  of 
lemon  to  orange,  red,  a  new  bright  scarlet,  and  the 
rosy  lavender  of  the  Weeping  Lantana.    The  seed  in 


82  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

its  immature  state  is  incased  in  a  green  pulp  or  berry, 
changing  to  blue  as  it  ripens,  and  consists  of  a  little 
nut  with  several  kernels,  so  that  one  is  sometimes  sur- 
prised with  two  or  more  plants  from  what  seems  to 
be  a  single  seed.  The  seed  may  be  started  in  the 
house,  or  in  the  hotbed  early  in  the  spring;  sowing 
in  drills  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep.  It  germinates 
in  from  twelve  to  fifteen  days,  but  soaking  in  warm 
water,  for  a  few  hours  before  planting,  will  hasten 
its  appearance.  They  require  about  the  same  treat- 
ment as  Geraniums,  but  should  be  shifted  oftener  and 
given  plenty  of  water.  As  soon  as  the  plants  are  four 
or  five  inches  high  transplant  them  to  a  tobacco  pail, 
or  some  large  wooden  receptacle  containing  a  com- 
post of  muck,  loam,  and  old  manure,  or  muck  alone, 
and  place  in  full  morning  sunshine,  out  of  doors. 
Thus  managed  I  have  grown,  from  seed  sown  in 
March,  plants  that  measured  nine  feet  or  more  in 
circumference  by  September  and  were  a  mass  of 
bloom  all  summer  long,  the  blossoms  defying  all  ef- 
forts at  counting. 

Grown  in  this  way,  with  an  abundance  of  roots 
and  top  room,  rich  soil,  sun,  and  water,  no  better 
ornament  could  be  desired  for  the  porch  or  steps; 
but  I  do  not  think  it  a  desirable  plant  for  the  house, 
as  the  hot,  dry  air  causes  it  to  drop  its  leaves,  and  it 
is  almost  sure  to  be  attacked  by  the  red  spider.  It  is 
better  to  start  fresh  plants  each  spring  and  let  them 
go  when  frost  comes. 


83 


Lantanas  make  fine  hedgerows  between  house  lots 
or  for  defining  different  portions  of  the  grounds. 
They  should  be  planted  in  rich  ground  two  and  one- 
half  feet  apart. 

The  new  Weeping  Lantana  is  the  most  charming 
member  of  the  family.  It  is  of  much  more  slender 
growth  than  the  rest  and  inclined  to  be  pendulous, 
or  weeping.  Its  delightfully  fragrant  flowers  are  pro- 
duced in  round  heads  the  size  of  a  half-dollar  at  the 
axil  of  every  leaf  and  show  a  lovely  rosy-lilac  hue. 
If  planted  in  the  open  ground  the  Weeping  Lantana 
quickly  covers  a  considerable  area,  presenting  a  solid 
sheet  of  bloom  throughout  the  summer.  It  will 
bloom  freely  in  the  house  if  given  a  warm,  sunny 
window,  abundant  room,  and  showered  daily  to  keep 
back  the  red  spider,  or  dipped  occasionally  in  hot 
water  for  that  purpose.  It  must  always  have  abun- 
dant root  and  top  room  and  plenty  of  water. 

Petunias 

PROBABLY  no  common  flower  of  the  garden 
has  been  so  improved  during  the  last  few  years 
as  the  Petunia.  The  small-flowered  variety  of  a  few 
years  ago  with  its  straggly  habit  and  narrow  range 
of  colour  —  chiefly  white  and  faded  magenta  —  is  now 
superseded  by  magnificently  fringed  and  ruffled  beau- 
ties in  a  wealth  of  colour,  from  purest  white  to  glow- 
ing crimson,  and  a  velvety  purple  that  is  almost  black, 


84  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

with  wonderfully  veined  and  tinted  throats  and  thick, 
stocky  stems.  It  is  difficult  to  realise  that  they  are 
the  same  plants,  plus  a  few  generations  of  good  living 
and  culture. 

The  double  Petunias  are  desirable  for  pots,  vases, 
and  bedding  out,  but  I  do  not  think  they  compare 
with  such  strains  as  Burpee's  Defiance,  the  Giants  of 
California,  the  Ruffled  Giants,  and  the  Miranda. 
Miranda,  for  example,  is  a  rosy  carmine  merging  into 
a  brilliant  scarlet  in  the  throat — the  nearest  approach 
to  a  scarlet  Petunia  yet  produced.  The  seed  of  double 
Petunias  will  yield  a  fair  proportion  of  double  flow- 
ers. The  young  plants  of  both  the  single  and  double 
varieties  require  great  care  at  first,  being  very  sensi- 
tive to  hot  sun  or  cold  air.  Once  established,  how- 
ever, they  will  stand  a  great  deal  of  both — more, 
indeed,  than  almost  any  other  flower  of  this  class. 
Plant  them  in  flats  in  the  house  in  March  by  pressing 
the  seed  into  the  soil  without  covering ;  keeping  moist 
and  warm  until  the  seed  germinates,  usually  from 
eight  to  ten  days.  When  large  enough  to  handle, 
prick  off  into  larger  flats  and  set  them  in  a  warm 
north  or  east  window.  When  the  leaves  touch  set 
them  two  or  three  inches  apart  each  way  in  other  flats 
and  let  them  grow  until  it  is  time  to  place  them  in 
the  open  ground,  hardening  them  gradually  by  ex- 
posure to  more  sun  and  air  each  day,  and  transplant 
with  great  care.  If  intended  to  replace  the  Pansies 
they  may  be  set  in  the  bed  in  June,  the  Pansies  afford- 


House-plants 


ing  them  protection  until  they  have  attained  some 
size.  Set  each  little  seedling  on  the  north-east  side  of 
a  Pansy  plant,  and  by  the  time  the  Pansies  have  passed 
their  zenith  they  will  be  ready  to  stand  alone. 

Always  remove  poor  or  inferior  plants  in  order 
that  the  highest  standard  may  be  maintained;  the 
finer  varieties  may  be  readily  distinguished  from  the 
more  common  sorts  by  the  stems  and  foliage;  the 
latter  having  thin  stems  and  small  leaves,  set  rather 
far  apart,  while  the  stems  of  the  fine  varieties  are 
very  stocky;  the  leaves  large,  more  or  less  crinkly, 
and  set  closely  on  the  stem;  the  buds  thick  and  com- 
pact, while  those  of  the  common  type  are  long  and 
thin.  Petunias  grow  so  rapidly  that  vacant  places 
left  by  culling  are  soon  filled.  The  finest  specimens 
may  be  lifted  for  winter  flowering.  They  will  bloom 
freely  in  the  house  and  often  show  a  richer  colour 
than  when  out  of  doors.  They  need  considerable 
root  room  —  any  crowding  of  the  roots,  or  starving 
of  the  plants  being  quickly  shown  in  the  deteriora- 
tion of  the  flowers.  Avoid  chills  and  draughts.  Give 
liquid  manure  and  water  freely,  but  do  not  let  the 
soil  get  wet  or  sour.  A  little  charcoal  in  the  potting 
soil  is  an  excellent  corrective  of  this  tendency.  Al- 
ways remove  the  flowers  as  they  fade,  thus  prolong- 
ing the  blooming  season  and  increasing  the  beauty 
and  size  of  the  blossom. 


86  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 


R 


Primroses 

EQUIRE  the  same  general  treatment  as  other 
house-plants.  A  good  compost  of  leaf-mould, 
loam,  and  sand  is  best  for  the  first  few  shif tings, 
manure  being  added  as  the  plants  attain  size.  Re- 
peated shifting  hastens  blooming,  while  keeping  the 
plants  in  small  pots  retards  it.  When  ready  to  bloom 
they  should  be  fine,  large  plants  in  five-  or  six-inch 
pots.  They  should  blossom  in  November  and,  if  well 
cared  for,  they  will  flower  from  that  time  on  until 
spring.  In  potting  the  Primrose  care  must  be  taken 
to  have  the  crown  of  the  plant  slightly  above  the 
surface  of  the  soil  and  the  soil  lowest  at  the  edge  of 
the  pot,  that  no  water  may  settle  around  the  crown 
and  cause  it  to  rot.  When  the  buds  appear  give  the 
plants  diluted  liquid  manure  once  a  week.  As  the 
leaves  of  Primroses  are  easily  injured  they  should  be 
placed  where  they  will  be  subjected  to  as  little  han- 
dling as  possible.  Window  brackets  make  an  ideal 
place  for  them,  as  they  can  be  turned  and  inspected 
without  removal,  and  the  large  velvety  leaves,  droop- 
ing gracefully  over  the  pot,  will  develop  perfectly. 
Injured  or  faded  leaves  should  be  removed  at  once. 
A  receptacle  rather  broad  than  deep  gives  opportunity 
for  the  best  development.  A  hanging-basket,  milk- 
crock  with  drainage  hole,  or  jardiniere  with  outlet 
will  answer.  Sufficient  root  room  is  particularly  nec- 
essary in  the  case  of  old  plants,  as  these  have  more 


House-plants 


divisions  to  the  crown  and  therefore  spread  more. 
Primula  obconica  does  better  when  grown  in  shallow 
dishes  ;  a  dish  four  inches  deep  and  eight  wide  is  much 
better  than  the  usual  flower-pot. 

Florists  start  their  Primroses  each  year  from  seed, 
but  there  is  no  reason  why,  if  one  has  a  choice  plant, 
it  should  not  be  carried  over  to  the  second  year,  when, 
being  larger,  it  will  give  more  flowers. 


Chapter  NINE 


THE  outside  window-box  is  a  thing  of 
beauty  if  well  cared  for,  a  disfigure- 
ment if  neglected.     So  greatly  does 
it   add  to   the   cheerfulness   and   ap- 
parent size  of  the  rooms  under  the 
windows  of  which  it  is  placed  that  I  should  advise 
its  use  whenever  practicable.     One  of  my  pleasantest 
recollections  is  a  window-box  full  of  Heliotrope  un- 
der a  sitting-room  window,  filling  the  room  so  full  of 
perfume  that  going  into  it  in  the  early  morning  was 
like  stepping  into  a  garden  of  fragrance. 

Window-boxes  do  well  in  any  window  not  shaded 
by  porches,  and  the  plants  best  suited  to  the  light 
may  be  selected.  Many  plants  too  tender  to  bed  out 
in  the  open  ground  may  be  trusted  to  the  window- 
box.  Fuchsias,  Ferns,  Asparagus  Sprengeri,  A.  ten- 
uissimus,  Ageratums,  fancy-leaved  Caladiums,  and 
various  tuberous-rooted  Begonias,  like  the  silver-spot- 
ted, known  as  Angel's  Wing,  are  all  lovely  in  the 
window-box.  Rubra  and  most  of  the  Begonias  do 
admirably  in  a  north  window.  For  windows  facing 

88 


the  street,  where  effect  is  principally  sought,  bright 
Geraniums,  Heliotropes,  Coleus,  Crotons,  and  simliar 
plants  are  preferable,  provided  there  is  sufficient  sun- 
shine to  bring  out  all  their  rich  colouring. 

The  fancy-leaved  Caladiums  may  be  used  where 
bright  effect  is  sought  in  a  north  window. 

The  boxes  used  for  this  purpose  should  be  as 
ample  as  possible,  the  full  length  of  the  window-cas- 
ing outside  and  at  least  a  foot  wide  and  deep.  They 
should  be  made  of  inch  boards,  closely  fitted  together 
so  that  the  sides  shall  not  warp  and  allow  the  water 
to  run  through  too  freely,  washing  out  and  exhaust- 
ing the  soil.  A  hole  may  be  made  in  the  bottom  at 
one  end,  and  provided  with  a  plug,  for  the  escape  of 
surplus  water  during  continued  rains.  A  piece  of 
broken  crock  or  other  drainage  must  be  placed  over 
the  hole  on  the  inside  of  the  box  to  prevent  the  earth 
working  in  and  obstructing  the  free  passage  of  water. 
The  hot  air  of  summer  will  shrink  the  earth  away 
from  the  sides  of  the  box,  leaving  a  channel  for  the 
water  to  escape  without  properly  soaking  the  soil; 
but  if  the  surface  of  the  soil  is  kept  open,  and  the 
centre  left  a  little  lower  than  the  sides,  this  will  be 
prevented.  A  little  experimenting  will  show  just  how 
much  water  is  needed  to  wet  the  soil  properly  with- 
out letting  it  run  away,  and  this  amount  should  be 
used  daily  during  dry  weather.  Only  as  many  plants 
as  will  do  well  in  the  limited  space  of  four  square 
feet  should  be  planted  in  the  window-boxes.  Five 


90  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

erect  plants  and  three  vines  are  enough  for  a  box  of 
that  size,  and  even  these  may  need  attention  before 
the  season  is  over,  especially  if  in  south  or  west 
windows.  North  or  east  boxes  will,  usually,  keep 
their  contents  fresh  until  frost;  but  a  west  or  south 
light  makes  great  demands  upon  the  vitality  of  plants 
confined  within  the  limited  area,  and  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  leave  Geraniums  and  similar  flowers  in  their  pots, 
that  they  may  be  easily  exchanged  for  others  when 
they  grow  shabby,  cutting  back  and  repotting  the  old 
ones  for  winter  blooming  if  removed  not  later  than 
August. 

A  better  plan  is  to  have  two  boxes ;  starting  one  in 
the  house  in  March,  that  it  may  be  ready  to  place 
as  soon  as  danger  of  frost  is  past;  and  the  second  in 
June,  that  it  may  be  ready  to  replace  the  first  when 
needed.  For  the  latter  the  vines  started  in  the  house, 
or  hotbed,  in  April  will  be  available.  Maurandya, 
Thunbergia,  and  the  like,  and  many  flowers  from  seed 
will  have  reached  sufficient  size  to  be  used  for  the 
second  box.  Plants  that  have  been  carried  over  from 
another  season,  or  purchased  from  the  florist,  will  be 
necessary  for  the  first  boxes.  There  is  no  more  beau- 
tiful vine  for  a  window-box  than  the  Maurandya;  it 
drapes  more  gracefully  than  any  other  vine  I  know 
(unless  it  be  the  Wild  Cucumber,  which  attaches  itself 
to  the  window-screen  in  wreaths  of  exuberant  bloom, 
drooping  far  below  the  window-box,  and  making  a 
lovely  background  for  scarlet  Geraniums).  Its  only 


tie  ^tntioMortsi 


91 


fault  is  that  it  will  grow  shabby  before  the  season 
is  over,  when  it  had  better  be  pulled  up  and  replaced 
by  a  fresher  vine  that  has  been  grown  in  a  pot  for 
the  purpose  and  can  be  slipped  into  place  without 
checking  its  growth. 

Perhaps  no  plant  is  more  satisfactory  for  a  south 
or  west  window-box  than  a  good  Geranium  —  either 
the  dark,  rich  vermilion  of  the  S.  A.  Nutt,  or  the  vivid 
scarlet  of  the  Bruant.  Both  of  these  appear  to  bet- 
ter advantage  when  contrasted  with  white  flowers. 
Camphor  Geranium  is  excellent,  being  a  freer  bloom- 
er than  other  white  Geraniums,  and  the  Giant  White 
Antirrhinum  is  especially  vivid.  Double  white  Pe- 
tunias and  white  Phlox  Drummondi  are  also  good. 
Purple  Ageratums  and  Heliotrope  are  charming  with 
scarlet  and  white.  The  large-flowered  Ivy  Geraniums 
—  Souvenir  de  Charles  Turner  —  are  the  best,  and  do 
finely  in  east  and  west  window-boxes,  while  the  varie- 
gated variety  makes  a  lovely  mass  of  pendent  foliage 
for  an  east  or  north  box.  Trailing  Fuchsia,  Japanese 
Morning-glory,  Glechoma,  and  Wild  Cucumber  all 
do  well  on  the  north  side  of  the  house.  The  follow- 
ing combinations  may  all  be  depended  upon  to  give 
satisfactory  results: 

Southern  Exposure. 

No.  i. 
Bruant  Geranium         White  Antirrhinum.       S.  A.  Nutt  Geranium 

(  scarlet  )  .  (  cardin  al)  . 

Heliotrope.  Heliotrope. 

White  Maurandya.  White  Maurandya. 


The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 


No.  2. 

Jean  Viaud  Geranium  Mrs.  J.  M.  Garr.  Jean  Viaud 

(pink).  (pink). 

Dwarf  blue  Ageratum.  Dwarf  blue  Ageratum. 

Nepeta  Glechoma.      Souv.  de  Charles  Turner.      Nepeta  Glechoma. 


No.  3. 

Beaute  Poitevine  Ger.     White  Verbena.       Madame  Charlotte  Ger. 
(salmon).  (salmon). 

Weeping  Lantana. 
Var.  Ivy  Ger.  Joan  of  Arc.  Ivy  Ger.  Joan  of  Arc. 


No.  4. 

Dark  Crotons.  Dark  Crotons.  Dark  Crotons. 

Light  Crotons.  Light  Crotons. 

Adlumia.  Lotus  Peliorhynchus.  Adlumia. 


No.  5. 

Light  Crotons.                    Light  Crotons.  Light  Crotons. 

Dark  Coleus.  Dark  Coleus. 

Trailing  Abutilons.          Trailing  Abutilons.  Trailing  Abutilons. 


No.  6. 

East  Window-box. 

Scarlet  Tuberous  Begonia.     White  do.     Scarlet  Tuberous  Begonia* 

White  Tuberous  Begonia.          White  Tuberous  Begonia. 
White  Thunbergia.          Scarlet  Nasturtium.         White  Thunbergia. 


93 


Pink  Justicia. 

Heliotrope. 
White  Maurandya. 


No.  70 
Pink  Justicia. 

Solanum  Jasminoides. 


Pink  Justicia. 
Heliotrope. 
White  Maurandya. 


No.  8. 

Yellow  Tuberous  Begonia.      Yellow  Tuberous  Begonia.      Yellow 

Tuberous  Begonia. 

White  Tuberous  Begonia»          White  Tuberous  Begonia. 
Yellow  Thunbergia.  Yellow  Thunbergia. 


No.  9. 

Pink  Double  Petunia.      White  Antirrhinum.      Pink  Double  Petunia. 
Wild  Cucumbero 


No.    10. 

Heliotrope.  Heliotrope.  Heliotrope. 

Duke  Zeppelin  Begonia.  Duke  Zeppelin  Begonia,, 

Solanum  Jasminoides,,  Solanum  Jasminoides. 

Manettia  Vine. 


No.   ii. 

North  Window-box. 

Fancy  Caladiums  Fancy  Caladiums  Fancy  Caladiums 

(dark).  (dark).  (dark). 

Fancy  Caladiums  (light).  Fancy  Caladiums  (light). 

Vinca  Var.  Vinca  Var. 

Trailing  Fuchsia.  Maurandya.  Trailing  Fuchsia. 


94 


The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 


No.   12. 

Fuchsia  Phenomenal.    Begonia  Angel's  Wing.   Fuchsia  Phenomenal. 

Dwarf  Ageratum.  Dwarf  Ageratum. 

Ivy  Geranium.  Trailing  Fuchsia.  Ivy  Geranium. 


No.    13. 

Rubra  Begonia.          Asparagus  Tenuissimus. 

Farfugium. 
Variegated  Vinca.  Manettia  Vine. 


Asparagus  Sprengeri. 
Russellia  Grandis« 


No.   14. 

Boston  Fern. 
Cissus  Discolour. 


Begonia  Velutina. 
Feastii  Begonia. 
Variegated  Vinca. 


Asparagus  Sprengeri. 
Russellia  Grandis. 


Nasturtiums  make  an  attractive  window-box,  but 
need  abundant  root  room,  and  not  more  than  three 
plants  should  be  put  in  a  box  having  three  other 
erect  plants.  Morning-glories,  on  the  contrary,  re- 
quire but  little  room,  and  one  may  be  put  in  each  end 
of  a  north  window-box  and  trained  over  the  window. 
If  strings  are  provided  they  will  reach  the  roof  by 
midsummer,  blooming  every  step  of  the  way;  other 
vines  may  be  grown  in  the  front  of  the  box.  The 
Centrosema — when  it  can  be  persuaded  to  grow — is 
a  charming  vine  for  a  north  or  east  window,  but  it 
is  a  very  shy  plant,  hard  to  get  started,  and  refusing 
to  grow  in  an  uncongenial  situation,  though  quite 
hardy  when  once  established. 

The  best  support  for  the  window-box  is  the  wooden 
bracket  made  by  nailing  to  the  side  of  the  house, 


95 


thirteen  inches  below  the  window-sill,  a  strip  of  inch 
stuff  the  length  of  the  window-frame  and  three  or 
four  inches  wide;  on  top  of  this  and  at  right  angles  to 
it  nail  three  similar  strips  of  wood  one  foot  long,  the 
outer  ends  resting  on  strips  of  wood  attached  to  the 
sill  of  the  house  ;  these  last  strips  must  have  the  ends 
bevelled  sufficiently  to  fit  snugly  against  the  base- 
boards and  the  bottom  of  the  horizontal  pieces  and 
be  securely  nailed  together.  If  the  measurements  are 
carefully  taken  the  box  will  slip  into  place,  on  the 
supports,  just  under  the  window-sill.  Paint  boxes 
and  supports  to  match  the  house.  Window-boxes  may 
be  kept  in  the  cellar  through  the  winter,  or  emptied, 
dried  and  stored  in  a  dry  place,  according  to  their 
contents.  Always  empty  and  thoroughly  scald  the 
boxes  before  using. 

In  stocking  window-boxes  never  put  plants  received 
by  mail  directly  into  them;  they  should  be  ordered 
early  enough  to  pot  and  become  established  (the  pots 
full  of  roots)  by  the  time  they  are  needed  for  the 
window-boxes,  when  they  may  be  slipped  into  place 
without  disturbing  the  roots  or  checking  their  growth. 
Placed  at  once  in  the  boxes,  in  a  sunny  position,  they 
would  probably  be  lost. 

Very  fair  window-boxes  may  be  obtained  at  trifling 
expense  by  using  the  boxes  in  which  grass  scythes  are 
packed,  which  may  be  purchased  at  the  hardware 
store  for  five  or  ten  cents  apiece.  These  are  not  as 
wide  nor  as  deep  as  one  could  wish,  but  have  the  ad- 


96  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

vantage  of  cheapness  and  availability.  Preference 
should  be  given  to  those  having  close  seams.  If 
warped  or  open  they  must  be  tightened  by  driving  in 
extra  nails,  or  nailing  thin  strips  of  wood  over  the 
cracks  on  the  inside.  The  longevity  of  the  window- 
box  is  greatly  lengthened  by  keeping  the  windows 
above  them — especially  on  the  south  and  west  sides 
of  the  house — open  as  much  of  the  time  as  possible. 
If  the  sun  beats  on  the  glass  of  the  closed  window  and 
is  reflected  on  the  plants,  it  is  literally  confining  them 
between  two  fires  and  they  cannot  be  expected  to  come 
through  uninjured.  Let  the  wind  sweep  through  and 
over  them  and  they  will  stand  any  reasonable  amount 
of  heat  or  moisture.  This  is  the  reason  plants  do 
better  in  the  open  than  when  placed  against  the  side 
of  a  wall  or  building — the  air  must  not  only  have  free 
access,  but  pass  beyond,  carrying  off  noxious  vapours 
and  excess  of  moisture. 

When  there  is  garden  room  for  their  cultivation 
I  do  not  approve  of  growing  annuals  in  window- 
boxes;  it  is  better  to  reserve  these  for  choice  plants; 
but  when  the  window-box  must  be  the  only  garden, 
and  economy  must  be  studied,  very  pretty  boxes  may 
be  arranged  with  Sweet  Alyssum;  scarlet,  white,  or 
pink  Phlox  Drummondi ;  scarlet,  pink,  or  white  Ver- 
benas; the  various  coloured  Antirrhinums,  Petunias, 
Nasturtiums,  the  blue  Phacelia  and  Ageratums,  Wild 
Cucumber,  the  finer  foliaged  fancy  gourds,  as  Bryon- 
opsis  Coccinea  Indica,  and  Abobra  viridiflora.  By 


BOXES    IN   WHICH    SCYTHES    ARE    PACKED    MAKE    VERY   GOOD 
WINDOW-BOXES 


HANGING-BASKETS    FOR    WINDOWS 


SMALL    WATER    GARDENS 


Nine]    (^utsttie 


using  the  scythe  boxes,  and  starting  the  plants  from 
seed,  very  pretty  boxes  may  be  gotten  up  for  from 
thirty-five  to  fifty  cents  a  pair  that  will  give  as  much 
pleasure  as  more  expensive  ones.  The  more  flowers 
are  cut  from  these  boxes  of  annuals  the  more  freely 
they  will  bloom,  and  no  seeds  should  be  allowed  to 
form.  A  little  liquid  manure  should  be  given  all 
window-boxes  —  except  those  containing  Begonias  — 
once  a  week  during  the  summer,  and  all  withered 
flowers  and  leaves  promptly  removed.  Nip  back 
weak,  straggly  growths  and  encourage  the  plants  to 
grow  stocky  and  the  vines  to  branch  freely. 


Chapter    TEN 

"gTartoufi  Annuals  from  |s>eeti 

ANTIRRHINUMS  (Snapdragon).  Of 
late  much   interest  has  been   shown 
in  the  newer  forms  of  this  old-time 
favourite,  and  some  fine  new  varie- 
ties  have   become   popular    for    cut 
flowers.    The  Giant  White  and  Queen  of  the  North 
are  most  desirable  for  cut  flowers,  window-boxes,  and 
vases;  while  Niobe — a  beautiful  half-dwarf  variety 
of  velvety  maroon  with  white  throat,  Giant  Yellow, 
Giant  Crimson,  and  Firefly — a  bright  scarlet — are  ex- 
cellent for  bedding. 

Seed  should  be  started  early  in  hotbed  or  flats. 
Merely  press  it  into  the  soil  and  cover  with  a  paper 
until  the  plants  appear,  which  should  be  in  from  eight 
to  ten  days.  Transplant  into  rich  soil  where  the 
plants  are  to  remain,  setting  one  foot  apart  each  way. 
They  are  effective  in  rows  with  some  taller  plant,  or 
vine,  for  a  background.  The  tall,  showy  spikes  are 
most  striking  against  a  background  of  green.  The 
Antirrhinum  is  a  half-hardy  perennial,  blooming  the 
first  season  if  seed  is  started  early  enough,  and  hardy 

98 


Annuals  from  §3>eeti 


99 


at  the  North  with  good  protection  in  winter.  If  a  suc- 
cession of  flowers  is  desired,  no  seed  should  be  allowed 
to  form.  Protect  in  winter  with  a  mulch  of  leaves, 
evergreen  boughs,  or  corn-stalks,  as  high — or  higher 
— than  the  plants,  or  they  may  be  pegged  down  and 
covered  with  evergreen  boughs,  or  boards  to  shed  the 
rain.  Thus  protected  they  will  live  through  the  win- 
ter and  bloom  heavily  the  following  summer.  Oc- 
casionally in  favoured  locations  they  will  live  through 
the  winter  unprotected,  but  this  cannot  be  depended 
upon. 

Antirrhinums  are  not  particular  as  to  soil  or  sit- 
uation, provided  they  have  plenty  of  water;  rich 
loam  or  half  loam  and  half  leaf-mould  suiting  them 
equally  well,  and  any  exposure  that  affords  a  fair 
amount  of  sunshine. 

Asters  have  come  to  be  a  recognised  necessity  of 
the  fall  garden,  and  there  has  been  marked  improve- 
ment in  varieties  during  the  past  few  years.  Starting 
with  the  old-fashioned  Aster  of  medium  size  and  in- 
ferior colour,  showing  a  marked  yellow  centre,  the 
aim  of  the  Aster  specialist  has  been  to  eliminate  the 
centre,  enlarge  the  flower,  and  improve  the  colour 
and  texture  of  the  petal.  Results  are  shown  in  such 
varieties  as  the  Giant  White  Comet,  the  Bride,  the 
Japanese  Tassel  Aster,  Chrysanthemum  Flowered, 
Peony,  Perfection,  and  the  wonderful  Ostrich 
Feather. 

With  such  an  embarrassment  of  riches  it  is  diffi- 


ioo  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

cult  to  declare  any  one  variety  the  finest,  but  for  cut 
flowers  and  corsage  wear  nothing  can  excel  the 
Chrysanthemum  Flowered  in  white  and  pink. 

The  lasting  quality  of  the  flowers  when  cut  is  quite 
phenomenal.  I  have  known  them  to  keep  fresh  and 
sightly  in  water  for  a  month,  until  the  stems  had  en- 
tirely rotted  away,  leaving  the  flower  uninjured.  In 
arranging  them  for  vases  remove  all  leaves  below 
the  top  of  the  vase,  leaving  clean  stems,  which  should 
be  thoroughly  cleansed  daily,  and  the  ends  clipped. 
A  teaspoonful  of  charcoal  added  to  the  water  in  the 
vase  will  keep  it  sweet  and  retard  decay. 

Early  planting  of  Asters  is  to  be  strongly  recom- 
mended, as  the  early  plants  are  not  subject  to  the 
dreaded  Aster  disease  or  to  attacks  of  the  black  beetle, 
which  often  destroy  all  the  flowers  of  a  late  bed  in 
a  single  day. 

A  teaspoonful  of  Paris  green  in  the  watering-pot, 
sprinkled  on  at  night  or  very  early  in  the  morning, 
will  usually  rid  the  plants  of  their  unwelcome  guests, 
or  they  may  be  brushed  off  into  a  pan  of  water  con- 
taining a  small  quantity  of  kerosene — which  is  fatal 
to  them.  They  are  sluggish,  especially  in  the  early 
morning,  dropping  to  the  ground  when  touched,  and 
easily  killed.  The  point  is  to  take  them  in  time,  and 
the  appearance  of  the  first  beetle  should  be  the  signal 
for  active  operations. 

For  early  flowers  the  seed  may  be  planted  in  the 
hotbed,  flats,  or  cold-frame  in  March  or  April,  cov- 


Annuals  from 


ering  an  eighth  of  an  inch  deep  and  keeping  rather 
cool.  They  germinate  in  from  five  to  seven  days,  and 
when  the  plants  have  attained  their  second  pair  of 
true  leaves  they  should  be  transplanted,  setting  an 
inch  or  two  apart  in  the  flats  or  bed.  Transplant 
again  when  the  leaves  close  up  the  gaps  between  them, 
setting  three  or  four  inches  apart  according  to  their 
growth.  If  possible,  transplant  a  third  time,  as  this 
frequent  moving  serves  to  produce  a  great  quantity 
of  feeding  roots,  at  the  same  time  checking  the  top 
growth  and  making  a  stocky  plant  with  stiff  stems. 
Transplant  when  the  weather  is  favourable  into  a 
well-prepared  bed  of  sandy  loam  enriched  with  old 
manure,  or  a  bed  of  woods  earth.  Set  a  foot  apart 
each  way,  except  in  the  case  of  the  branching  Asters, 
which  should  be  at  least  two  feet  apart. 

Sprinkle  ashes  freely,  and  as  long  as  there  is  room 
to  work  between  the  rows  cultivate  once  or  twice  a 
week.  They  may  then  be  mulched  with  lawn  clip- 
pings to  keep  down  the  weeds  for  the  rest  of  the 
season.  If  they  are  planted  in  woods  earth  they  will 
need  only  such  cultivation  as  is  necessary  to  keep  down 
the  weeds.  Do  not  let  them  suffer  for  water  at  any 
period  of  their  growth,  and  remove  all  flowers  as 
they  fade. 

Ageratums  (Floss  Flower)  are  almost  indispensa- 
ble for  edgings,  window-boxes,  vases,  and  for  filling 
out  beds  of  Heliotrope.  The  dwarf  or  Tom  Thumb 
are  the  most  desirable  for  edgings.  Princess  Caroline, 


102  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

Swanky  Blue,  and  Little  Dorrit  are  the  best  of  this 
class  in  the  blue  or  lavender  shades.  The  white 
does  not  show  a  good,  clear  colour  under  a  hot 
sun,  and  is  therefore  not  desirable.  For  early 
plants  sow  in  flats  or  in  the  hotbed  early  in  spring. 
Later  seed  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  when 
the  trees  are  in  bloom,  and  transplanted  when  large 
enough.  Sow  broadcast,  covering  the  seed  lightly 
and  pressing  it  into  the  soil.  They  germinate  in 
from  three  to  five  days,  and  may  be  grown  on  until 
time  to  transplant  into  permanent  quarters.  Though 
they  may  start  somewhat  spindly,  they  quickly 
regain  their  dwarf  and  stocky  character  in  the  open 
ground.  Set  plants  from  eight  to  ten  inches  apart 
in  the  row.  If  the  flower  heads  are  removed  as  fast 
as  they  fade  plants  will  bloom  from  early  June  until 
cut  down  by  frost. 

Balsams  (Lady  Slipper),  like  Asters,  are  greatly 
benefited  by  frequent  transplanting,  and  one  at  least 
they  must  have.  Start  seed  early  in  the  hotbed  or 
flats,  or  later,  when  the  trees  are  in  bloom,  in  pro- 
tected beds  in  the  open  ground.  Transplant  at  least 
once  in  the  seed-beds;  twice,  if  possible.  When  dan- 
ger of  frost  is  past  remove  to  beds  of  muck  or  marsh 
earth,  setting  from  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  apart  each 
way.  Given  plenty  of  room,  the  Balsam  branches 
freely,  and  one  well-developed  specimen  will  give 
more  and  finer  flowers  than  a  half-dozen  cramped 
specimens.  In  purchasing  select  the  camellia-flowered 


gnnuate  from  g>eefr       103 


varieties,  as  it  does  not  pay  to  waste  time  with  in- 
ferior kinds.  Really  fine  Balsams  are  well  worth 
cultivating,  and  are  very  effective  in  rows  in  front  of 
taller  plants.  The  double  white  and  shell  pink  are 
valuable  for  floral  designs  for  funerals  and  for  other 
decorative  work. 

Probably  no  flower  that  has  come  into  vogue  of 
late  years  has  won  more  popularity  than  the  Cosmos 
—  certainly  for  cut  flowers  nothing  can  surpass  it  in 
graceful  beauty.  The  large  pink  and  white  Hibiscus, 
with  a  generous  handful  of  long-stemmed  pink,  crim- 
son, and  white  Cosmos,  makes  an  ideal  bouquet  for  a 
high  glass  vase.  Placed  in  front  of  a  large  mirror 
the  effect  in  form  and  colour  is  hardly  surpassed  by  the 
choicest  exotics.  The  graceful,  fern-like  foliage  adds 
greatly  to  the  beauty  of  a  well-grown  clump  in  the 
garden  or  lawn.  They  are  at  their  best  when  seen 
against  a  background  of  darker  green,  a  shower  of 
crimson,  pink,  and  white. 

Only  the  early  flowering  varieties  should  be  grown 
at  the  North,  as  the  seasons  are  much  too  short  for  the 
giant  or  California  varieties;  though  if  one  has  room 
for  both,  the  California  may  be  grown  as  a  back- 
ground for  the  dwarf  early  flowering,  as  the  foliage 
is  much  superior  and  the  late  flowers  very  fine.  If 
started  very  early  in  flats  in  the  house,  pricked  out 
into  pots,  shifted  and  grown  on  until  time  to  set  in 
the  open  ground,  the  season  of  bloom  will  be  much 
advanced. 


104  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

Set  out  in  rich  garden  soil  and  supply  abundantly 
with  water.  Strong  stakes  must  be  provided,  as  the 
plants  are  very  brittle  at  the  joints,  and  a  storm  may 
do  great  damage  if  they  are  unsupported.  An  ex- 
cellent way  of  growing  them  is  to  plant  them  in  front 
of  a  wire  fence  or  chicken  netting  on  the  side  toward 
the  prevailing  wind,  that  they  may  be  blown  against, 
rather  than  away  from  their  support,  and  the  stalks 
and  main  branches  tied  to  the  wires  with  raphia,  wool 
twine,  or  strips  of  cloth;  thus  protected  there  will 
be  little  danger  of  their  being  injured  by  rough 
winds. 

If  an  occasional  seed  is  allowed  to  form  and  self- 
sow  there  will  come  up  very  sturdy  little  plants  the 
following  spring,  but  fresh  seed  should  be  purchased 
every  other  year  to  insure  against  deterioration  in  size 
of  blossom  and  quantity  of  bloom. 

Columbine  (the  Aquilegia)  seed  may  be  sown  in 
the  open  ground  in  the  North  when  the  trees  are  in 
leaf,  or  any  time  after  May  loth.  Cover  the  seed- 
bed with  a  newspaper  and  keep  moist  until  the 
plants  are  up,  in  ten  to  twelve  days.  Transplant  when 
large  enough  to  handle  into  fresh  rows  or,  when  they 
have  attained  sufficient  size,  into  their  permanent 
quarters.  Planted  in  a  row  where  they  will  have  a 
background  of  green  the  effect  is  beautiful.  One  of 
the  prettiest  beds  I  remember  was  of  mixed  Colum- 
bine— pure  white,  rose,  and  lavender — in  front  of  an 
old  grey  building,  on  which  grew  a  delicate  vine  in  its 


Annuals  from  |s>eeti        105 


first  tender  spring  green.  They  had  been  moved  the 
fall  before  from  a  bed  where  they  attracted  no  par- 
ticular attention,  but  in  their  new  quarters  they  awoke 
to  find  themselves  famous. 

Dahlias  are  so  easily  raised  from  seed  that  it  hardly 
seems  worth  while  to  bother  with  the  tubers,  unless 
one  has  exceptionally  favourable  conditions  for  stor- 
ing them.  Plants  grown  from  seed,  started  early  in 
the  house  or  hotbed,  will  come  into  bloom  quite  as 
soon  as  those  grown  from  tubers.  Plant  the  seed 
in  drills  two  inches  apart,  dropping  an  inch  or  more 
apart  in  the  drills,  and  cover  with  one-eighth  to  one- 
fourth  inch  of  earth.  The  seed  germinates  in  from 
five  to  seven  days,  and  the  little  plants  are  quite  robust 
from  the  start,  though  sensitive  to  cold  and  drought. 
When  all  danger  of  frost  is  past  and  the  nights  are 
warm  transplant  the  Dahlias  into  beds  of  mellow  soil 
heavily  enriched  with  manure.  Set  three  feet  apart 
each  way  and  cultivate  thoroughly  as  long  as  there  is 
room  to  work  between  the  rows.  Then  mulch  heavily 
with  rough  manure  covered  with  lawn  clippings. 
Water  copiously  during  dry  weather,  showering  the 
tops  at  night  to  counteract  the  effect  of  the  dry  air  on 
the  buds.  Save  waste  water  from  kitchen  and  bath, 
and  apply  to  their  roots.  This  affords  nourishment 
as  well  as  moisture.  When  two  feet  high  tie  carefully 
to  tall,  stout  stakes,  which,  to  avoid  injury  to  the  tu- 
bers, would  better  be  placed  when  the  plants  are  set. 
Sprinkle  soot  and  ashes  between  the  plants  and  culti- 


io6  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

vate  it  in.  The  finest  flowers  are  produced  by  pro- 
tecting with  an  awning  of  thin  cotton  cloth  after  the 
buds  are  fully  grown — though  this  would  only  be 
desirable  in  the  case  of  exhibition  flowers.  When 
several  buds  appear  in  one  place  remove  all  but  the 
largest,  as  the  difference  in  size  will  more  than  repay 
for  the  loss  in  number,  besides  there  is  danger  of  all 
blasting  if  allowed  to  remain. 

If  worms  or  beetles  appear  on  the  buds  they 
should  be  sprayed  with  Paris-green  solution — one  tea- 
spoonful  of  Paris  green  to  three  gallons  of  water. 
Should  the  borer — that  pest  of  the  Dahlia,  Aster, 
and  Cosmos — appear,  pour  the  Paris-green  mixture 
around  the  roots,  soaking  the  soil  to  the  depth  of  three 
or  four  inches.  Examine  the  stock  of  the  plant  near 
the  ground  for  the  hole  made  by  the  borer.  When 
found  run  a  flexible  wire  up  the  stalk  to  destroy  the 
worm  and  prevent  further  damage,  and  heap  the 
earth  above  the  wound.  If  brought  up  to  a  point 
above  the  wound,  and  kept  moist,  new  roots  will  start, 
thus  insuring  the  recovery  of  the  plant.  If  one  has 
previously  been  troubled  with  this  worm  it  will  be 
well  to  anticipate  matters,  and,  commencing  when  the 
plants  are  a  foot  high,  apply  once  a  week  a  weak 
Paris-green  solution;  continue  this  until  the  plant  is 
grown  and  the  wood  hardened  near  the  ground. 

The  fine  mixed  double  Dahlias,  the  Cactus  and  the 
magnificent  single  varieties,  are  all  desirable  for  cut 
flowers  and  effective  in  garden  rows ;  but  for  corsage 


Annuals  from  jgeefr 


wear  the  last  are  best.  It  would  be  difficult  to  find  a 
flower  more  beautiful  than  a  vivid-coloured  single 
Dahlia. 

For  the  rockwork  try  English  Daisies  —  pink,  white, 
crimson,  and  striped.  They  do  admirably  in  such  a 
situation,  digging  their  toes  in  between  the  stones, 
finding  cool,  moist  spots,  and  holding  their  heads  up 
in  the  hot  sunshine.  Start  the  seeds  where  they  are  to 
remain,  or  in  a  flat  or  cold-frame.  The  little  plants 
appear  in  from  five  to  seven  days,  and  will  need  shade 
and  moisture  until  they  have  become  established. 
For  beds  that  lie  in  partial  shade  they  make  beautiful 
borders,  forming  little  rosettes  of  leaves  that  in  the 
fall  may  be  taken  up  and  divided  by  pulling  apart  into 
as  many  plants  are  there  are  crowns  ;  in  this  way  one 
will,  in  a  short  time,  secure  a  large  bed  or  border. 
They  should  be  protected  in  winter  by  a  mulch  of 
rough  stable  litter,  evergreen  boughs,  or  corn-stalks, 
and  the  bed  raised  to  shed  water. 

The  Hibiscus  (Marshmallow)  is  a  perennial  de- 
serving much  more  general  cultivation.  Even  to 
flower  lovers  it  seems  quite  unknown,  and  yet  it  is 
cheaply  and  easily  raised  from  seed,  and  one  of  the 
hardiest  of  our  garden  perennials.  There  are  three 
varieties  hardy  in  the  North  —  an  immense  pure  white 
blossom  with  a  velvety  crimson  eye,  a  pale  pink  or 
flesh  colour,  and  a  lovely  bright  pink.  These  three 
are  hardy  in  the  open  ground  without  protection,  but 
they  will  be  stronger  plants  and  bloom  more  freely 


108  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

if  protected  with  a  little  rough  litter  and  hilled  to 
shed  water. 

There  are  several  that  may  be  treated  as  hardy 
annuals,  and  various  tender  perennials  that  must 
be  kept  in  the  house  or  greenhouse  during  winter. 
Among  the  first  are  Africanus,  a  large  cream- 
coloured,  brown-eyed  variety;  it  is  low-growing  and 
effective  in  front  of  the  tall,  crimson-eyed  sort, 
which  with  age  attains  a  height  of  six  or  more 
feet. 

Giant  Yellow  is  a  beautiful  canary  yellow  with 
crimson  throat,  hardy  as  far  north  as  St.  Louis, 
but  safer  in  the  cellar  above  that  latitude,  and  Coc- 
cinea,  a  tender  perennial  of  a  brilliant  crimson.  If 
started  early  all  will  give  flowers  the  first  season  from 
seed,  which  may  be  sown  in  hotbeds  or  flats  in  Feb- 
ruary or  March  in  drills  one-fourth  inch  deep.  They 
germinate  in  from  five  to  seven  days.  Plant  out  in 
good  garden  soil  at  corn-planting  time,  setting  the 
hardy  varieties  where  they  are  to  remain,  as  they  do 
not  bear  transplanting  well  when  they  have  attained 
any  considerable  size.  Cultivate  during  the  hot 
weather  or  mulch.  A  two-quart  tin  can,  with  holes 
on  one  side  near  the  bottom,  may  be  sunk  in  the 
ground  and  filled  with  water.  This  with  the  mulch 
will  keep  the  earth  cool  and  moist  during  the  hottest 
weather.  The  plant  is  an  herbaceous  perennial,  dying 
down  to  the  ground  in  winter  and  coming  up  from 
the  roots  the  following  spring — rather  late  in  May. 


Annuals  front  |s>eeti 


Plants  increase  in  size  and  beauty  each  year,  and  a  five- 
or  six-years  clump  is  superb. 

Cut  off  the  stalks  a  few  inches  above  the  ground 
when  killed  by  frost,  but  do  not  attempt  to  break  them 
off  or  pull  them  up,  as  that  will  injure  the  crown  of 
the  large,  fleshy  roots  and  cause  decay  during  the 
winter.  The  remainder  of  the  stalk  serves  to  mark 
the  location  of  the  plant.  When  they  have  grown 
to  blooming  size  they  should  be  tied  to  stout  stakes. 
The  large  clumps  have  a  tendency  to  spread  at  the 
roots,  and  a  severe  rain  and  wind  storm  may  lay  them 
prostrate.  Make  a  support  of  two  or  three  wooden 
hoops  nailed  to  two  or  more  stout  stakes,  the  top  hoop 
standing  three  feet  above  the  ground.  Place  this 
over  the  plants  in  the  spring  and  train  them  to  grow 
up  through  the  hoops. 

For  effective  grouping,  to  fill  in  a  corner,  to  serve 
as  a  screen  to  unsightly  objects,  to  catch  the  eye  and 
carry  it  on  from  point  to  point,  there  is  no  finer  flower 
than  the  Hollyhock.  The  double  flowers,  of  course, 
are  more  attractive  at  close  range,  but  at  a  distance 
the  single  are  rather  more  effective.  Everyone  who 
grows  plants  should  find  at  least  one  corner  for  a  big 
clump  of  this  gorgeous  flower. 

The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  the  spring,  either 
where  they  are  to  remain  or  in  a  cold-frame  ;  the  loca- 
tion matters  little  so  that  favourable  conditions  of  the 
soil  are  secured.  Plants  started  after  the  seed  ripens 
in  the  summer,  even  when  protected  by  a  cold-frame, 


no  *rhe  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

do  not  make  sufficient  growth  to  endure  a  very  severe 
winter.  The  new  Alleghany  Hollyhocks  are  hardier, 
and  a  fair  proportion  of  plants  from  August-sown 
seeds  may  be  expected  to  survive  the  winter.  When 
the  plants  run  up  their  blossom  stalks  the  second 
season  they  must  be  securely  staked  to  prevent  injury 
by  high  winds.  If  the  borer  appears  apply  the  Paris- 
green  solution  about  the  roots.  The  Hollyhock  is 
subject  to  attack  very  early  in  the  season  by  a  variety 
of  red  spider  which  feeds  on  out-of-door  plants. 
The  Paris-green  solution  may  be  used  for  this,  or  a 
kerosene  emulsion,  or  the  plants  may  simply  be 
showered  with  hot  water  at  about  145°.  The  rem- 
edy should  be  applied  promptly.  The  Hollyhock 
blight  is  a  fungous  disease  of  a  most  destructive  nat- 
ure. Its  ravages  almost  drove  the  Hollyhock  out 
of  our  gardens  some  years  ago.  Infected  plants 
should  be  burned.  Though  hardy  the  second  year, 
they  should  be  hilled  up  sufficiently  to  shed  water  and 
given  a  shelter  of  corn  fodder  or  evergreen  boughs 
during  the  winter. 

When  the  trees  are  in  bloom  Nasturtiums  may 
be  planted  in  the  open  ground  where  they  are  to 
remain.  They  should  have  fairly  rich  soil  and  a 
sunny  situation,  as  they  will  not  bloom  well  in  the 
shade.  The  dwarf  varieties  make  very  attractive 
borders  for  Canna  beds,  the  colour  and  texture  of 
the  foliage  harmonising  better  with  the  Canna  than 
that  of  the  Coleus  and  many  other  plants  commonly 


A    DEAD    TREE    DRAPED    WITH    VINES 


Animate  from 


in 


employed,  while  the  brightness  of  the  blossoms  makes 
a  very  attractive  whole. 

The  tall  varieties  make  effective  beds  when  pegged 
down,  as  the  plants  root  wherever  they  touch  the 
ground  and  send  up  flower  shoots.  Usually,  however, 
they  are  grown  on  strings  or  trellises.  The  latter  is 
a  troublesome  method,  as  they  must  be  fastened  to 
their  support  with  strings.  They  are  not  climbers, 
but  trailers,  and  have  no  tendrils  or  other  means  of 
attaching  themselves  to  their  support. 

The  finest  bed  of  Nasturtiums  I  have  seen  is  an 
elevated  one  built  around  a  pipe  which  brings  water 
from  a  distance.  Some  of  the  water — not  much — 
reaches  them,  and  they  are  given  little,  if  any,  atten- 
tion, but  in  their  elevated  bed  they  grow  luxuriantly, 
trailing  over  the  sides  of  the  ground  and  showing 
a  brilliant  mass  of  flowers  until  cut  down  by  frost. 
Usually  the  Nasturtium  receives  too  much  water,  and 
produces  quantities  of  rank,  lush  foliage  instead  of 
flowers. 

The  new  Nasturtium,  Sunlight,  is  one  of  the  finest 
varieties  brought  out  in  years — a  pure,  clear,  golden 
yellow  without  any  markings  and  of  fine  size.  Its 
companion,  Moonlight,  is  a  pale  cream,  almost  white, 
showing  wine-coloured  markings  in  the  throat.  For 
mixed  varieties  the  hybrids  of  Madame  Gunther  are 
the  most  desirable,  and  the  new  Chameleon  shows  a 
variety  of  different  coloured  flowers  on  the  same  stem. 


"The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 
The  Pansy  Bed 

^T^O  obtain  the  best  results  seed  should  be  sown  by 
JL  the  middle  of  August,  using  fresh  seed  of  the 
year  if  procurable.  Rather  than  delay  planting, 
however,  it  is  better  to  risk  the  lessened  vitality 
of  last  year's  seed — sowing  somewhat  more  gener- 
ously as  an  offset.  Sow  as  thinly  as  possible  in  the 
cold-frame  or  a  spent  hotbed,  in  drills  two  inches 
apart,  drawing  the  earth  from  the  sides  of  the  drills 
and  pressing  it  down  with  the  board.  The  drills 
should  run  lengthwise  of  the  bed  from  east  to  west, 
and  each  variety  should  be  distinctly  labelled  with 
name  and  date  of  sowing.  After  sowing  water  well 
with  the  rubber  sprinkler,  cover  with  newspapers, 
and  protect  the  bed  with  lath  screens.  Pansy  seed 
germinates  in  from  eight  to  ten  days.  When  the 
plants  have  their  second  leaves  thin  out  by  setting 
some  between  the  rows,  and  encourage  growth  by 
giving  sunshine  and  water  as  needed  and  liquid  ma- 
nure once  a  month.  The  aim  should  be  to  get  a  sturdy 
rather  than  a  quick  growth  to  fit  them  for  the  winter. 
The  soil  in  the  frame  should  stand  well  above  the  soil 
outside,  and  a  trench  or  hole,  filled  with  stone  or 
broken  crockery,  should  be  made  in  one  corner,  cor- 
responding to  the  lowest  level  of  the  earth  outside, 
to  carry  off  any  surplus  moisture  that  may  gather  in 
the  bed.  When  cold  weather  comes  place  the  sash 
in  position  and,  if  it  remains  steadily  cold — below 


Annuals  from  |z>eeti 


freezing  —  leave  the  bed  undisturbed  until  spring. 
The  best  results  usually  follow  such  a  condition.  If 
the  winter  is  an  open  one,  and  the  ground  free  from 
frost  much  of  the  time,  the  Pansies  may  be  exposed 
to  the  sun  and,  on  mild  days,  to  the  air.  In  this  way 
considerable  winter  growth  will  be  secured.  Should 
the  temperature  fall  sufficiently  to  freeze  the  ground 
inside  the  frame,  the  sash  should  remain  closed  and 
be  protected  with  mattings,  old  carpet,  or  the  like,  and 
the  plants  allowed  to  thaw  out  in  the  dark.  Never 
expose  to  the  sun  when  frozen,  but  thaw  out  under 
cover. 

As  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked  in  the  spring 
prepare  a  bed  in  an  open,  sunny  situation  by  removing 
the  soil  to  a  depth  of  six  or  eight  inches  and  spading 
in  a  generous  amount  of  old,  well-  rotted  cow  manure 
—  a  wheelbarrow  load  to  every  fifteen  square  feet  is 
not  too  much  if  it  is  old  and  thoroughly  spaded  into 
the  soil.  Replace  the  surface  soil,  or,  better  still, 
fill  up  the  beds  with  leaf-mould  or  earth  from  the 
compost  heap.  Instead  of  the  cow  manure,  old,  well- 
rotted  hen  manure  and  chip  dirt  in  equal  quantities, 
with  a  liberal  sprinkling  of  soot,  may  be  substituted. 
Dig  it  well  into  the  subsoil  and  cover  with  fine  loam 
or  leaf-mould,  raking  this  fine  and  even  and  free 
from  stones.  Leave  it  to  settle  for  a  few  days  and 
then  transplant  the  Pansies,  setting  them  nine  inches 
apart  each  way.  Where  several  strains  of  Pansies 
are  grown  it  is  an  advantage  to  plant  each  variety  by 


n4  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

itself,  marking  the  line  of  separation  by  two  or  more 
rows  of  some  distinct  colour;  such  as  pure  white, 
clear  yellow,  or  black.  This  enables  one  to  compare 
the  varieties  at  a  glance  and  form  a  better  estimate 
of  their  qualities  than  would  be  possible  in  a  mixed 
bed. 

During  hot,  dry  weather  the  Pansy  bed  should  be 
watered  twice  a  day — at  night  and  at  noon.  Water- 
ing the  garden  in  the  middle  of  the  day  may  seem  a 
reckless  innovation  to  many,  especially  to  the  profes- 
sional gardener,  but  years  of  experience  have  taught 
me  the  value  of  giving  a  plant  water  when  it  most 
needs  it — and  that  is  when  it  is  parched  with  heat. 
Of  course  all  plants  will  not  stand  water  under  a  hot 
sun,  but  Pansies  are  not  injured  by  it  in  any  way. 
Pansies  do  not  send  their  roots  as  deeply  into  the 
ground  as  most  plants,  but  make  many  surface  roots 
(hence  we  place  the  fertilisers  well  below  the  surface 
to  induce  a  deeper  growth),  which  even  a  temporary 
drying  out  of  the  top-soil  will  injure.  A  good  soaking 
of  the  soil  at  night  will  last  until  ten  or  eleven  o'clock 
the  next  day,  according  to  exposure,  and  if  another 
good  wetting  is  then  given  with  water  fresh  from  the 
hydrant  or  well  it  will  remain  cool  and  moist  through- 
out the  twenty-four  hours.  The  rapid  evaporation 
caused  by  the  hot  sun  will  create  a  moist  atmosphere 
around  the  plants,  producing  much  finer  flowers  than 
would  be  possible  in  the  dry  air  resulting  from  with- 
holding water  until  night.  Always  plant  Pansies  in 


Annuals  from  |j>eeti 


an  open,  airy  situation,  where  the  wind  can  have  full 
sweep  over  them.  There  is  no  more  mistaken  idea 
than  that  Pansies  should  be  grown  in  the  shade.  The 
aim  should  be  to  get  stocky,  upright  plants  with  the 
flowers  borne  well  above  the  foliage  on  stiff  stems. 
This  is  impossible  when  plants  are  grown  in  the  shade, 
where  long,  straggly  branches  will  invariably  be  pro- 
duced, with  flowers  at  the  extreme  end.  Then,  too, 
plants  grown  by  the  side  of  the  house,  or  in  protected 
positions,  where  the  wind  cannot  sweep  over  them, 
are  much  more  liable  to  disease  than  plants  grown  in 
the  open. 

Fungoid  disease  and  mildew  often  attack  the  Pansy 
in  hot,  muggy  weather.  The  remedy  for  the  former 
is  to  spray  with  the  Bordeaux  mixture,  and  for  the  lat- 
ter to  dust  with  sulphur.  It  will  be  better  still  —  if  the 
disease  appear  in  August,  as  is  usual  —  to  remove  all 
the  old  growth,  cutting  or  breaking  it  off  close  to  the 
crown,  care  being  taken  not  to  injure  the  tender  new 
shoots,  which  will  have  started  by  this  time.  Burn 
the  old  tops.  The  new  growth,  being  open  to  the  air, 
will  probably  be  free  from  disease,  and  will  quickly 
fill  the  bed,  giving  an  abundance  of  fine  flowers 
throughout  the  cool  days  of  fall.  From  a  bed  so 
treated  I  gathered  five  hundred  blossoms  the  day 
before  Thanksgiving  with  no  apparent  diminution  of 
bloom.  After  removing  the  old  growth  the  earth 
between  the  plants  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned  and 
workecl  over  with  the  trowel 


n6  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

From  the  blooming  of  the  first  Pansy  until  frost  the 
bed  must  be  gone  over  every  day  and  all  faded  flowers 
removed.  This  is  absolutely  necessary  to  insure  free 
blooming.  The  formation  of  a  single  pod  of  seed 
lessens  the  blooming  capacity  of  the  plant  and  reduces 
the  size  of  succeeding  flowers. 

To  maintain  a  high  standard  it  is  best  to  purchase 
fresh  seed  each  year,  buying  the  best  to  be  obtained. 
Special  mixtures  sent  out  by  the  leading  florists  are 
made  up  of  the  best  strains  of  the  Pansy  specialists  in 
this  country  and  Europe.  One  must  not  expect  to 
purchase  these  collections  for  the  price  of  ordinary 
seed,  from  twenty-five  cents  to  fifty  cents  being  the 
usual  range  of  price.  A  packet  of  such  fine  strains 
as  Giant  Gassier  and  Giant  Trimardeau  should  be 
included*,  and  such  special  colours  as  may  be  wanted 
in  larger  quantities  than  the  mixed  packages  furnish. 
Snow  Queen  is  the  best  pure  white,  and  the  bed  should 
contain  a  liberal  number  of  these  plants.  Aurora  is 
considerably  larger  than  the  Snow  Queen,  but  shows 
purple  markings  in  the  centre,  and  is  not  so  fine  in 
shape  and  texture.  With  the  exception  of  size,  Snow 
Queen  is  an  ideal  Pansy.  If  it  is  desired  to  carry  the 
Pansy  bed  through  the  winter  it  may  be  done  by  using 
pieces  of  board,  half  a  yard  long,  with  notches  cut 
in  one  end  and  the  other  end  pointed.  Put  these 
through  the  centre  of  the  bed  a  few  feet  apart,  ham- 
mering the  sharp  end  into  the  ground.  Place  long 
poles  lengthwise  of  the  bed,  resting  them  on  the 


Ten]       Annuals  from  |s>eeti 


notches.  This  forms  a  support  on  which  the  ever- 
green boughs,  corn  fodder,  boards,  bark,  or  anything 
that  will  shed  water  and  protect  from  sun  and  wind. 
Leaves  and  litter  are  not  suitable  protection  for  Pan- 
sies,  as  they  settle  around  the  plants,  freezing  and 
causing  them  to  decay. 

When  there  is  a  large  garden  to  be  cared  for  it  is 
not  always  expedient  to  carry  the  Pansy  bed  through 
the  summer,  as  the  daily  labour  of  removing  the  with- 
ered flowers  is  very  great.  In  that  case  it  will  be  better 
to  let  the  Pansies  go  when  hot  weather  reduces  the 
size  and  quantity  of  the  flowers,  replacing  them  with 
plants  grown  for  the  purpose,  Petunias,  bedding  Be- 
gonias, Heliotropes,  and  the  like. 

Sow  Poppy  seed  freely  wherever  there  is  a  corner  to 
spare,  especially  if  it  is  a  corner  that  would  otherwise 
be  neglected  and  grow  up  to  weeds.  It  is  surprising 
how  many  places  may  be  found  to  sow  them.  A  bar- 
ren angle  of  a  fence,  a  vacant  strip  behind  or  at  the 
side  of  some  outbuilding,  an  exposed  spot  among  trees 
where  nothing  else  will  grow,  a  foot  of  ground  here 
and  there,  in  the  perennial  border  and  among  late 
flowering  plants,  where  the  Poppies  will  have  danced 
through  their  brief  season  of  bloom  and  passed  on 
before  the  former  have  discovered  that  they  need 
the  room.  Use  all  these  odds  and  ends  of  room,  but, 
if  possible,  have  a  long,  narrow  bed  of  them  —  single 
and  double,  the  deep  blood  red,  the  gorgeous  scarlet, 
the  wonderful  Shirleys,  whose  delicate  cups  like 


n8  *fhe  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

crinkled  silk  seem  to  flush  and  pale  with  the  tremulous 
colour  of  an  opal  as  you  look  at  them.  Plant  Esch- 
scholtzias  as  a  border,  but  sow  Iceland  and  the  Orient- 
al Poppies,  which  are  hardy  perennials,  by  themselves; 
otherwise  they  are  easily  destroyed  in  the  clearing-up 
time  which  comes  after  blossoming.  There  is  a  fine 
yellow  Poppy,  Hunnemannia  fumariaefolia,  which 
should  not  be  overlooked.  Poppy  seed  sown  in  Au- 
gust gives  richer  coloured  flowers  than  spring-sown 
seed.  Seeds  of  Eschscholtzia  and  Hunnemannia 
should  always  be  sown  in  May.  Sow  broadcast  as 
thinly  as  possible  on  soil  that  has  been  worked  mellow 
and  fine,  pressing  it  into  the  ground  with  a  board. 
As  it  is  difficult  to  sow  the  seed  thinly  enough  it  is  a 
good  plan  to  mix  it  with  fine  sand — a  teaspoonful  or 
less  of  seed  to  a  teacup  of  sand — and  scatter  that  as 
thinly  as  possible.  It  will,  even  then,  be  found  that 
the  plants  will  come  up  too  thickly  and  will  need  to  be 
thinned  to  stand  a  foot  apart  each  way.  Poppies 
grown  too  closely  will  throw  up  one  or  two  slender 
stems  with  only  a  few  blossoms,  while,  given  plenty  of 
room,  they  will  branch  freely,  producing  dozens  of 
flowers  and  remaining  in  bloom  for  weeks.  Mark  the 
finest  blossoms  on  the  plant  from  which  you  wish  to 
save  seed,  removing  all  others  as  they  fade,  that  they 
may  not  self-sow  or  check  the  bloom.  If  self-sown 
they  are  apt  to  come  up  so  quickly  as  to  be  trouble- 
some. Pull  up  the  plants  as  soon  as  they  have  done 
blooming  to  add  to  the  compost  heap,  and  prepare 


Annuals  from  |*>eeti 


"9 


the  ground,  if  not  needed  for  other  plants,  for  the 
fresh  seed.  When  there  is  sufficient  shade  to  grow 
them  the  blue  of  Myosotis  and  of  Anchusa  capensis 
is  lovely  among  the  Poppies. 

Phlox  Drummondi 

TRY  a  border  of  the  dwarf  Phlox  Drummondi, 
sown  to  make  a  colour  scheme.  Set  six  to  eight 
inches  apart,  in  the  form  of  scallops,  the  point  coming 
between  every  other  plant  of  the  tall,  perennial  Phlox. 
Make  the  rows  two  or  three  plants  wide  at  the  centre, 
narrowing  to  a  single  plant  at  the  point,  using  scarlet 
or  pink,  and  filling  in  the  space  between  the  scallops 
and  the  straight  edge  of  the  bed  with  solid  white. 
Or  a  double  scallop,  one  beginning  in  the  centre  of  the 
other,  may  be  made  of  scarlet  and  buff,  or  pink  and 
buff,  filling  in  the  large  spaces  between  with  white  and 
the  small  spaces  with  Cope's  Favourite  Ageratum. 
The  dwarf  Ageratums  grow  very  evenly  and  are  ad- 
mirably adapted  for  carpet  bedding.  Seed  of  the 
dwarf  Phlox  germinates  very  slowly.  It  should  be 
sown  where  it  will  have  bottom  heat  and  be  given 
plenty  of  time,  frequently  three  weeks  or  more.  The 
common  Phlox  Drummondi  germinates  more  freely, 
and  may  be  sown  where  it  is  to  remain,  thinning  to  six 
inches  apart  in  the  rows,  or  it  may  be  sown  and  trans- 
planted, which  insures  more  even  rows. 


120  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

Salvias  (Flowering  Sage) 

IT  is  surprising  how  seldom  one  sees  the  Salvia 
grown  to  any  considerable  extent  outside  the 
public  gardens  and  parks,  though  no  other  flower  can 
compare  with  it  in  richness  of  colour  and  freedom  of 
bloom,  but  there  seems  to  be  an  impression  that  it 
must  be  purchased  from  a  florist  or  grown  from  cut- 
tings. Salvia  is  much  more  desirable  for  bedding 
than  for  any  other  purpose.  In  the  house  it  is  subject 
to  attacks  of  red  spider,  which  make  it  more  trouble 
to  care  for  than  it  is  worth,  while  in  the  open  ground 
it  is  remarkably  healthy  and  free  from  insect  pests. 

Seed  should  be  started  early  in  flats  or  hotbed,  and 
plants  set  out  where  they  are  to  remain,  when  all  dan- 
ger of  frost  is  past,  as  they  are  very  sensitive  to  cold. 
Muck  or  marsh  earth  seems  the  most  congenial  soil 
in  which  to  grow  the  Salvias,  and  if  this  is  supplied 
they  will  need  little  care  beyond  watering  during  the 
summer. 

I  have  grown  the  Salvia  splendens — the  usual 
height  of  which  is  about  two  and  a  half  feet — to 
a  uniform  height  of  five  feet  in  a  bed  of  marsh  earth, 
with  a  supply  of  water  from  a  pipe,  keeping  it  con- 
stantly moist.  They  will  do  well  in  the  hottest  situa- 
tion if  well  supplied  with  water,  and  even  better  in 
partial  shade — the  foliage  being  a  deeper  green  and 
the  colour  of  the  blossoms  richer  and  more  velvety 
than  when  exposed  to  full  sunlight.  For  years  I  have 


Annuals  from 


grown  them  around  a  twelve-  foot  bed  of  Ricinus  and 
Cannas,  and  notice  that  the  plants  are  always  much 
finer  on  the  north  side. 

Try  them  as  a  border  to  a  bed  of  Cannas  or  Ricinus, 
edging  them  with  white  Sweet  Alyssum  or  dwarf 
Ageratum.  They  root  readily  in  wet  sand  in  a  warm 
situation,  and  if  a  house-plant  is  available  it  may  be 
used  for  cuttings  instead  of  sowing  seed. 

Seed  may  be  saved  without  injury  to  the  plants 
as  it  ripens,  and  must  be  gathered  before  the  flowers 
entirely  fade.  The  corolla  or  lip  of  the  flower  falls 
out,  leaving  four  white  seeds  an  eighth  of  an  inch 
long  at  the  base  of  the  calyx,  which  remains  fresh  un- 
til the  seeds  have  ripened,  when  they  may  be  shaken 
out.  By  going  over  the  plants  daily  one  soon  saves 
a  fine  lot  of  seed,  which  may  be  depended  upon  to 
germinate.  The  Salvia  seed  germinates  in  about  five 
days.  But  less  vigorous  seed  will  continue  to  appear 
for  two  or  three  weeks  after  sowing,  and  the  soil 
should  not  be  disturbed  until  all  have  had  time  to 
appear.  They  require  considerable  heat  to  germinate 
freely,  and  when  this  is  supplied  will  give  very  satis- 
factory returns.  Bonfire,  Clara  Bedman,  and  S.  splen- 
dens  are  the  best  of  the  scarlet-flowered  variety.  The 
white-flowered  Salvias  would  be  desirable  if  the  blos- 
soms were  more  closely  massed  on  the  spray;  as  it  is 
they  are  too  scattered  to  have  any  value.  S.  patens, 
however,  when  brought  to  perfection  is  magnificent, 
the  individual  flowers  being  double  the  size  of  the 


122  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

scarlet  and  of  the  most  wonderful  shade  of  blue.  It 
is  seldom  seen,  but  should  have  a  place  in  every  gar- 
den, as  it  is  a  colour  rare  among  flowers,  the  nearest 
approach  to  it  being  the  Monkshood.  It  is  a  tender 
perennial,  but  may  be  wintered  in  a  warm,  dry  cellar, 
dying  down  to  the  ground  usually,  but  starting  up 
from  the  root  in  the  spring. 

Sweet  Alyssum  and  Golden  Saxatile  are  both  desir- 
able for  edging  or  for  rockwork,  and  may  either  be 
sown  in  the  open  ground  where  they  are  to  remain, 
or  in  a  seed-bed  and  transplanted. 

Sweet-peas 

SO  much  has  been  written  on  this  subject  that  the 
culture  of  Sweet-peas  might,  without  much  ex- 
aggeration, be  called  a  cult.  Though  blooming  with 
its  head  in  the  sun,  the  Sweet-pea  loves  to  plunge  its 
roots  deep  in  the  cool,  moist  earth,  and  the  seed 
should  be  planted  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground 
can  be  worked,  or,  better  yet,  in  the  fall.  This  late 
fall  planting  has  much  to  recommend  it,  as  there  is 
more  leisure  and  the  work  is  apt  to  be  better  done 
than  in  the  hurried  days  of  spring  when  everything 
seems  to  call  for  immediate  attention. 

The  seed  should  be  planted  deep  in  two  rows  a  foot 
apart,  running,  if  possible,  north  and  south,  that  the 
plants  may  receive  the  maximum  amount  of  sunshine. 
Placed  in  this  way,  they  receive  both  morning  and 


Annuals  from  §>eeti 


afternoon  sun.  A  strip  of  wire  netting  five  feet  high 
should  be  stretched  between  the  rows  and  securely 
fastened  to  stout  posts  driven  into  the  ground.  Six- 
foot  netting  is  even  better  than  five,  as  the  Sweet-pea 
loves  to  climb,  and  blooms  better  if  not  thwarted. 
Dig  on  each  side  of  the  netting,  as  close  as  may  be 
without  breaking  the  space  between,  a  trench  a  foot 
or  eighteen  inches  deep  and  as  wide  as  is  necessary  to 
work  conveniently.  Place  in  the  bottom  about  six 
inches,  when  trodden  down,  of  old,  well-rotted  cow 
manure,  fill  in  about  six  inches  of  the  removed  soil, 
making  it  fine  and  mellow;  sow  the  seed  and  cover 
with  two  or  three  inches  of  soil  and  press  firmly 
down.  If  planted  in  the  fall  protect  with  several 
inches  of  rough  manure,  removing  it  in  the  spring  that 
the  soil  may  get  the  benefit  of  the  sun's  warmth.  When 
the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high  thin  to  six 
inches  apart  in  the  rows,  and  draw  up  part  of  the  soil 
removed  from  the  trench.  Add  more  as  the  plants 
grow  until  it  is  all  banked  up  against  them,  leaving  a 
slight  trench  between  the  ridges  and  the  surface  of 
the  ground. 

The  wire  should  come  close  to  the  ground  that  the 
plants  may  have  support  from  the  start.  Do  not 
water  until  necessary,  then  sufficient  water  should  be 
poured  into  the  trench  to  thoroughly  soak  the  ground 
at  the  bottom  of  the  roots,  but  do  not  turn  it  on 
the  foliage  or  stems.  Thorough  and  frequent  cultiva- 
tion should  be  given  during  the  blooming  season. 


124  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

Should  it  become  necessary  to  shower  the  foliage  dur- 
ing dusty  weather  it  would  better  be  done  early  in  the 
morning  or  sufficiently  early  in  the  evening  to  allow 
the  foliage  to  dry  before  the  chill  of  night.  This 
guards  against  the  blight  and  mildew,  so  prevalent  in 
Sweet-pea  culture. 

When  for  any  reason  it  is  not  convenient  to  culti- 
vate frequently,  a  mulch  of  lawn  clippings  will  keep 
the  ground  about  the  vines  cool  and  moist.  To  insure 
freedom  of  bloom  all  faded  flowers  should  be  removed 
each  day.  If  the  flowers  are  cut  as  fast  as  they  open 
the  quality  will  be  improved.  Under  no  circumstances 
should  seed  be  allowed  to  form,  as  the  ripening  of  the 
seed  is  fatal  to  the  flowers. 

There  is  such  a  bewildering  variety  of  Sweet-peas 
that  any  suggestion  of  choice  is  impossible,  but  usu- 
ally the  special  collections  put  up  by  seedsmen  will 
prove  more  satisfactory  than  those  of  one's  own 
choosing,  if  one  is  unfamiliar  with  the  names  of  the 
varieties. 

Verbenas 

N  sowing  the  seed  of  Verbenas  it  is  best  to  keep 
colours  separate,  as  white,  pink,  scarlet,  scarlet 
with  white  eye,  and  the  new  Mayflower  Verbena — 
one  of  the  finest  novelties  brought  out  in  recent  years. 

They  should  be  started  early  in  flats  or  hotbed, 
soaking  the  seed  in  hot  water  for  three  or  four  hours 
before  planting.  It  germinates  very  irregularly,  often 


I 


Annuals  from  j&ttti 


coming  up  after  one  has  ceased  to  expect  it.  The 
soil  should  be  kept  moist  so  long  as  there  is  any  chance 
of  more  plants  appearing.  Verbenas  will  thrive  in 
any  good  soil,  striking  root  wherever  a  point  touches 
the  ground.  Cultivate,  if  in  loam  or  stiff  soil,  as  long 
as  there  is  room  to  work  between  the  plants,  which 
should  be  set  at  least  a  foot  apart.  Verbenas  do 
finely  on  the  rockwork,  seeming  to  enjoy  the  cool  cor- 
ners they  find  under  the  stones,  and  the  finest  I  have 
ever  grown  have  been  in  such  a  situation. 

Vincas  (Periwinkles)  are  an  exceedingly  beautiful 
and  little  known  tender  perennial  worthy  of  extensive 
cultivation,  as  easily  grown  as  an  Aster  or  Verbena, 
and  very  effective  in  large  beds.  For  the  price  of  one 
greenhouse  plant  a  dozen  plants  may  be  raised  from 
seed.  The  foliage  is  deep  green  and  glossy,  and  large 
single  flowers  of  exquisite  colour  and  texture  —  pure 
ivory  white,  white  with  a  crimson  eye,  and  rosy  crim- 
son —  are  borne  at  the  end  of  every  branch  covering 
the  plants,  which  grow  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches 
high  and  nearly  as  broad.  As  a  border  for  a  Canna 
bed  nothing  could  be  better,  and  they  make  fine  sym- 
metrical winter  bloomers.  No  finer  plants  for  house 
decoration  could  be  desired. 

The  seeds,  which  should  be  started  early  in  hotbeds 
or  flats,  germinate  in  from  ten  to  fifteen  days,  some- 
times earlier.  Set  out  plants,  when  all  danger  of  frost 
is  past,  in  muck,  if  possible,  or  in  well-enriched  loam, 
setting  a  foot  or  fifteen  inches  apart  each  way,  cultivat- 


i26  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

ing  once  a  week,  if  in  loam  or  stiff  soil,  but  if  in  muck 
it  will  only  be  necessary  to  mulch.  Water  every  day 
during  the  hot  weather,  and  if  kept  from  seeding  they 
will  bloom  from  June  until  cut  down  by  frost.  They 
do  well  in  full  sunshine  or  in  shade,  but  must  have  a 
fair  amount  of  moisture.  If  no  seeds  form  plants 
may  be  lifted  in  the  fall  and  potted  in  large  pots  for 
winter  blooming. 

Small  plants  of  the  Chrysanthemum  obtained  from 
the  florist  in  the  spring  will,  with  proper  care,  make 
fine  blooming  plants  by  fall.  Plant  out,  when  all  dan- 
ger of  frost  is  past,  in  a  sunny  bed  composed  of  rather 
sandy  loam  and  muck  well  manured  and  made  deep 
and  mellow.  Set  the  plants  from  a  foot  to  eighteen 
inches  apart  each  way  and  cultivate  at  least  once  a 
week  during  the  summer.  They  should  never  suffer 
for  water,  as  if  once  allowed  to  dry  out  they  never 
fully  recover. 

When  the  plants  are  six  or  eight  inches  high  pinch 
back  to  four  inches.  Allow  four  branches  to  spring 
from  this  main  stalk,  removing  all  others.  When 
these  are  four  inches  long  pinch  back  again,  allowing 
each  of  the  four  shoots  to  form  three  or  four  branches 
and  nipping  out  all  others  as  they  appear.  If  a  few 
very  large  flowers  are  desired,  allow  only  the  four 
branches  to  grow  from  the  main  stem,  removing  all 
other  shoots.  When  the  branches  are  six  inches  in 
length  pinch  back  for  the  last  time  not  later  than 
August  ist,  after  which  they  should  be  allowed  to 


Annuals  from  i^eeD 


grow  on  undisturbed,  removing  all  but  the  terminal 
buds  if  fine  flowers  are  desired. 

Lift  by  September  ist,  transfer  to  large  pots  or 
boxes,  according  to  the  size  of  the  plants.  The  soil 
should  be  given  a  good  watering  the  day  before  lift- 
ing, that  the  earth  may  cling  to  the  roots  and  that  the 
plant  may  be  in  the  best  condition  for  moving.  Cut 
around  the  plant  with  the  trowel,  leaving  a  ball  of 
earth  as  near  as  possible  the  size  and  shape  of  the 
pot  it  is  to  fill.  Avoid  disturbing  the  roots. 

Set  in  a  cool,  shady  place  for  a  few  days  and  keep 
in  a  rather  cool,  dry  atmosphere  after  removing  to 
the  house.  Water  freely  and  give  liquid  manure  once 
a  week.  Do  not  shower  the  tops  after  buds  appear, 
or  keep  where  bulbs  are  growing  in  water,  as  moisture 
at  this  stage  is  apt  to  cause  the  buds  to  blast.  Chrysan- 
themums are  quite  certain  to  be  attacked  at  some  stage 
of  their  growth  with  black  aphis,  or  lice,  which  are 
very  troublesome  to  get  rid  of  once  they  have  gained 
a  foothold.  It  will  be  wise,  therefore,  to  keep  the 
foliage  constantly  dusted  with  tobacco  at  all  seasons 
of  their  growth,  as  in  this  form  tobacco  is  most  effect- 
ive. Once  the  pest  has  gotten  a  start  fumigating  with 
tobacco  smoke  will  be  necessary.  Shut  the  plants  in 
a  close  room  or  box  and  smoke  thoroughly. 


Chapter  ELEVEN 


HARSH  outlines  of  buildings,  a  dead 
tree,   a    dilapidated   fence,    a   sunny 
window,    an   obtrusive    outbuilding, 
may  be  transformed  by  the  use  of 
Nature's  drapery.     There  exists  in 
the  minds  of  many,  unfortunately,  a  prejudice  against 
vines  on  the  house  as  injurious  to  walls.    This  is  en- 
tirely unfounded,  the  contrary,  so  far  as  I  am  able  to 
judge,  being  the  case,  especially  on  the  south  and  west 
sides  of  frame  houses,  where  the  paint  and  consequent- 
ly the  woodwork,  will  be  found  in  a  much  better  state 
of  preservation  when  protected  by  such  vines  as  Am- 
pelopsis  Veitchi,  Virginia  Creeper,  Woodbine,  and  the 
like,,  than  when  exposed  to  the  burning,  blistering  rays 
of  the  sun.    Vines  make  a  thick  growth  of  overlapping 
leaves  which  shed  rain  and  prevent  its  penetrating  to 
the  walls.     In  England,  where  it  is  much  used,  it  is 
said  that  walls  covered  with  Ivy  are  almost  indestruc- 
tible, so  hard  and  dry  has  the  cement  remained  under 
its  protecting  care0 

128 


FURNISH    SUPPORT    FOR    VINES    TO    RUN    ON 


VINE-COVERED    SHED 


129 


Adlumia 

(Mountain  Fringe,   Climbing  Fumitory,  Alleghany 

Vine) 

ONE  of  the  prettiest  of  summer  vines  is  the  Adlu- 
mia, though  it  lasts  but  one  short  summer.  It 
is  a  biennial,  stooling  the  first  summer  and  the  second 
summer  bursting  into  a  wealth  of  tender  green  foliage, 
as  finely  cut  as  a  fern,  with  hundreds  of  sprays  of  deli- 
cate flowers — a  delightful  vine  when  grown  on  the 
north  side  of  the  house,  where  it  retains  its  fine  green 
throughout  the  season,  though  in  the  hot  sun  it  Is 
inclined  to  burn.  It  is  especially  appropriate  for 
funerals.  It  self-sows,  and  once  established  there  is 
sure  to  be  an  abundance  of  it  from  year  to  year.  In 
the  fall  seeds  may  be  scattered  where  the  plants  are 
to  remain,  or  the  seed  may  be  germinated  in  another 
spot  and  the  seedlings  transplanted  later.  As  the 
plants  always  receive  a  check  when  moved,  it  is  bet- 
ter to  do  so  as  early  as  possible  in  the  fall,  that  they 
may  become  established  before  cold  weather.  Plants 
should  be  set  two  feet  apart. 

Cobaea  scandens  ( Cup-and-Saucer  Vine)  is  a  most 
desirable  summer  vine.  It  grows  to  a  great  height 
and  blooms  freely,  throwing  great,  bell-shaped  flow- 
ers— pure  white,  greenish  white,  lavender,  mauve,  and 
purple — from  the  axil  of  nearly  every  leaf.  The 
flowers  of  the  purple  variety  are  pale  green  at  first, 
changing  through  all  the  shades  of  lavender  and 
purple  to  plum. 


130  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

There  is  another  variety — the  San  Salvador  Cobaea 
— that  is  even  more  desirable  than  the  C.  scandens. 
The  flowers  are  much  smaller,  but  have  greatly  exag- 
gerated stamens  that  give  them  distinction.  Its  chief 
beauty,  however,  is  the  foliage  of  light,  translucent 
green,  to  which  the  sun,  shining  through  it,  gives  a 
luminous  quality  rare  in  vines.  In  manner  of  growth, 
too,  it  is  superior,  its  many-lobed  leaves  lying  parallel 
to,  or  flat  on  the  netting,  instead  of  at  right  angles,  as 
is  the  case  with  C.  scandens.  Both  these  vines  do 
well  in  a  north  or  east  exposure  and  require  less  water 
than  most  vines.  They  are  admirable  for  covering  an 
old  tree  or  any  partly  dead  wood. 

Seed  should  be  started  in  the  hotbed  early  in  spring, 
setting  them  on  edge  and  covering  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
deep.  Unless  the  soil  appears  dry  they  should  not  be 
watered  until  the  plants  are  up  and  have  their  first 
true  leaves.  Set  out  when  danger  of  frost  is  past  in 
mellow  soil,  watering  as  needed,  and  giving  support 
for  the  vines  to  cling  to.  To  stone  and  brick,  or  the 
bark  of  a  tree,  they  will  cling  of  themselves,  each  leaf- 
spray  ending  in  a  tendril  that  attaches  itself  to  any 
rough  surface.  I  have  never  been  able  to  ascertain 
what  height  they  will  attain  if  given  support,  but  the 
top  of  a  reasonably  tall  tree  falls  short  of  their  am- 
bition. 

The  Centrosema  (Butterfly  Pea)  is  rather  a  hard 
vine  to  propagate  from  seed.  Seeds  germinate  freely, 
but  the  young  plants  seem  strangely  lacking  in  vigour, 


Eleven] 


so  that  frequently,  after  making  a  few  inches  of 
growth,  they  refuse  to  go  further,  and  gradually 
dwindle  away.  It  is  therefore  better  to  make  several 
sowings,  soaking  the  seed  in  hot  water  for  an  hour 
before  using,  and  planting  in  hotbed  or  cold-frame. 
If  it  is  dropped  an  inch  or  two  apart  in  the  rows  there 
will  be  no  occasion  for  disturbing  until  it  is  time  to 
transplant  into  the  open  ground  —  which  would  better 
be  deferred  until  the  plants  are  six  or  eight  inches  high. 
They  should  be  moved  with  as  little  disturbance  as 
possible,  pressing  the  trowel  down  its  full  length  and 
lifting  and  transferring  to  their  permanent  position 
on  the  east  side  of  the  house  in  one  operation.  Water 
and  press  the  earth  around  the  roots  and  furnish  im- 
mediate support.  Thus  treated  they  will  usually 
thrive  and  bloom  in  a  few  weeks,  continuing  until 
frost  unless  seeds  form,  which  should  not  be  allowed 
on  young  plants. 

Were  they  much  more  difficult  to  raise,  it  would 
still  be  worth  many  trials  and  failures  to  secure  one 
thrifty  plant,  so  lovely  it  is  when  in  bloom.  I  do 
not  remember  another  plant  whose  blossoms  give  one 
such  an  idea  of  perfection  —  of  exquisite  and  minute 
finish,  as  this  lovely  Centrosema  with  its  beautiful 
colour,  delicate  markings,  and  symmetry  of  form. 
Before  it  bloomed  I  had  begun  to  wonder  whether 
it  was  worth  all  the  trouble,  but  when  I  saw  the  first 
perfect  blossom  all  doubts  vanished  and  I  would  go 
to  much  greater  trouble  to  possess  it. 


132  The  Flower  Garden        [Chaptei 

The  Centrosema  is  of  slender  growth,  and  seldom 
exceeds  eight  or  ten  feet.  Plants  should  be  set  a  foot 
apart  in  front  of  a  wire  trellis  or  other  support.  They 
are  hardy,  but  should  be  given  protection  in  winter. 

Gourds  are  a  very  useful  family.  They  are  an 
ornamental  feature  of  the  summer  garden,  and  afford 
an  economic  and  unique  addition  to  the  winter's  sup- 
ply of  plant  receptacles,  hanging-baskets,  low  bowls 
for  Tulips,  Crocus,  and  other  bulbs.  Many  of  them 
are  highly  ornamental  and  graceful  climbers — as  the 
Wild  Cucumber,  Bryonopsis,  Coccinea  Indica,  and 
Abobra,  which  have  delicate  foliage  and  showy  fruit, 
and  may  be  grown  where  any  quick-growing  vine  is 
wanted.  They  are  especially  good  for  covering  rear 
fences  or  unsightly  outbuildings. 

Some  of  the  varieties  have  large  white  flowers 
which  are  finer  than  a  Clematis,  and  of  the  fruit  of 
large-flowered  ones  the  prettiest  hanging-baskets  are 
made.  Saw  them  in  two  when  thoroughly  ripe  and 
dry,  remove  the  pulp,  scrape  the  shell  clean  and  thin 
and  give  a  coat  of  green  or  brown  shellac  inside  and 
out,  and  hang  with  brass  chains.  They  are  more 
satisfactory  if  the  gourds  are  a  year  old  and  perfectly 
dry.  A  hole  must  be  made  for  drainage,  and  in  case 
of  bowls,  tiny  supports  fastened  to  the  bottom  with 
glue  to  raise  them  from  the  table,  as  without  the  free 
circulation  of  air  they  are  liable  to  mould. 

Seed  must  be  sown  as  early  as  possible  that  the 
fruit  may  have  time  to  ripen  before  frost.  Set  out 


Eleven]  mt&  133 

when  all  danger  of  frost  is  past  in  any  garden  soil  in 
a  sunny  position  where  they  will  have  good  support, 
as  they  are  vigorous  and  rapid  climbers  and  will 
quickly  go  to  the  top  of  a  tall  tree.  They  are  liable 
when  first  set  out  to  be  eaten  off  by  cutworms,  and 
they  should  be  protected  by  a  bottomless  tin  can  sunk 
into  the  ground  two  or  three  inches,  care  being  taken 
that  there  are  no  worms  inside  the  can.  The  gourds 
do  not  grow  for  some  little  time  after  setting  out,  as 
they  are  making  roots;  but  once  they  begin  the  de- 
velopment is  rapid. 

The  variegated  Japanese  Hop  is  another  summer 
vine  that  should  be  extensively  grown.  Its  large, 
handsome  foliage,  freely  splashed  with  white,  is  very 
showy  and  effective,  and  it  thrives  in  almost  any  sit- 
uation and  soil,  though  paying  well  for  extra  care  or 
attention  in  the  way  of  cultivation,  watering,  and 
food.  The  vines  are  not  hardy,  but,  as  they  self-sow, 
once  established  they  are  practically  permanent.  Sev- 
eral plants  should  be  set  near  each  other,  as  only 
the  female  plant  bears  seed.  The  leaves  of  this  are 
smaller  and  the  vine  more  slender.  The  great-leaved, 
robust  vine  bears  no  seed. 

It  is  better  to  plant  the  seed  in  the  fall,  as  when 
planted  in  the  spring  it  may  not  come  up  until  the 
following  year.  If  this  is  the  case  the  ground  where 
it  is  sown  should  be  left  undisturbed  until  the  follow- 
ing spring,  when  it  will  make  an  early  appearance. 
When  it  does  sprout  the  same  season,  the  seed  ger- 


134  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

minates  in  from  eight  to  ten  days.  The  plants  do 
equally  well  on  north,  south,  east  or  west  walls,  but 
should  be  kept  sufficiently  watered  on  the  south  or 
west. 

There  is  but  one  precaution  I  have  found  neces- 
sary in  growing  the  Japanese  Hop :  namely,  to  give  it 
a  rather  elastic  support,  a  twine  trellis  being  better 
than  a  rigid  wire  one.  The  finest  Japanese  Hop  I 
ever  saw  grew  over  a  south  window  on  a  trellis  of 
chicken  netting;  the  growth  was  wonderful,  and  the 
great  leaves  were  beautifully  splashed  with  white.  I 
was  exceedingly  proud  of  the  vine,  but  one  day  I  saw 
it  hanging  limp  and  withered  from  its  trellis,  and  an 
investigation  revealed  the  astonishing  fact  that  it  had 
grown  so  rapidly  and  attached  itself  so  firmly  to  the 
unyielding  wire  that  it  had  pulled  its  roots  entirely 
out  of  the  ground,  literally  committing  suicide.  Since 
then  I  have  used  a  more  yielding  support. 

The  Japanese  Morning-glory  should  be  started 
in  the  house  or  hotbed  and  not  transplanted  into  the 
open  ground  until  the  nights  and  ground  are  warm. 

Many  of  the  varieties  received  direct  from  Japan 
are  only  adapted  for  growing  in  pots ;  that  is  how  the 
Japanese  grow  them,  and  we  can  hardly  expect  to 
improve  on  their  methods.  Pot  off  all  plants  showing 
unusual  markings,  or  oddly  shaped  leaves,  and  plunge 
in  the  sand-box,  giving  sunshine  and  abundance  of 
water  and  using  large  pots,  or  shifting  frequently  as 
needed.  Give  liquid  manure  once  or  twice  a  week. 


Eleven]  tWSi  '35 

Furnish  support  for  the  vines  to  run  on,  either  a 
trellis  or  sticks  in  the  sides  of  the  pot  and  strings  run 
back  and  forth  through  and  around  them,  or  they  may 
be  trained  against  the  wall  back  of  the  sand-boy. 
Most  of  the  seeds  purchased  here,  however,  are  grown 
in  this  country,  and  the  plants  are  as  rugged  as  the 
old-fashioned  Morning-glory.  It  will  be  noticed  that 
diose  with  oddly  shaped  leaves  and  broad,  hairy  stems 
rarely  bloom  here,  the  buds  appearing  too  late  to  de- 
velop before  frost.  Grown  in  pots  these  might  give 
some  interesting  specimens.  If  only  a  few  of  the  buds 
are  allowed  to  develop  the  size  will  be  greatly  in- 
creased. 

The  Maurandya  Vine  is  one  of  the  most  satisfac- 
tory for  low  trellises,  window-boxes,  vases,  rockwork, 
and  the  like,  in  summer,  and  for  hanging-baskets  in 
winter.  In  the  open  air  it  attains  a  height  of  five  or 
six  feet,  giving  an  abundance  of  pink,  white,  and 
lavender-coloured,  foxglove-shaped  flowers,  an  inch 
and  a  half  in  length.  The  smooth,  shining  leaves  are 
ivy-shaped  and  cling  to  supports  by  a  twist  of  the 
stem.  It  grows  readily  from  seed,  and  germinates  in 
from  twelve  to  fifteen  days.  For  trellis  and  outdoor 
work  start  early  in  flats  or  hotbed,  setting  out  when 
danger  of  frost  is  past,  but  for  winter  use  June  is 
early  enough  to  sow  seed.  It  requires  no  special  treat- 
ment, doing  well  in  any  situation  with  good  soil  and 
sufficient  moisture.  This  is  one  of  the  most  graceful 
and  useful  vines  for  either  summer  or  winter. 


136  T'he  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

Thunbergias  (Black-eyed  Susans)  like  a  warm, 
sunny  situation,  and  in  good  soil  will  grow  six  or 
eight  feet  tall  and  be  covered,  until  cut  down  by  frost, 
with  a  wreath  of  tube-shaped,  flat-faced  blossoms 
two  inches  in  diameter — pure  white,  white  with  black 
eye,  yellow  with  white  eye,  and  yellow  with  black  eye. 
They  are  very  valuable  for  covering  low  trellises,  the 
foundations  of  porches,  window-boxes,  urns,  or  rock- 
work  where  a  small  vine  is  needed.  They  are  admi- 
rable as  basket  or  bracket  plants  in  winter.  They  grow 
freely  from  seed,  germinating  in  about  twelve  days, 
and  should  be  started  early  in  flats  in  the  house  or 
the  hotbed.  Much  finer  plants  are  grown  in  this 
way  than  can  be  purchased  from  the  florist.  Their 
only  enemy  is  the  red  spider,  and  they  should  be  show- 
ered frequently  to  prevent  an  attack. 

The  Manettia  Vine  is  one  of  the  most  satisfactory 
vines  for  winter  blooming,  requiring  only  a  small  pot 
and  a  place  in  a  sunny  window,  and  blooming  better 
when  pot-bound.  A  daily  watering,  and  occasional 
doses  of  weak  liquid  manure  when  the  other  plants  are 
getting  it  is  all  the  care  it  needs.  It  does  not  require 
a  warm  atmosphere,  blooming  freely  in  a  tempera- 
ture of  about  50°,  and  giving  an  unfailing  succession 
of  its  bright  little  flowers  every  day  during  the  winter. 
It  is  that  rare  thing — a  plant  which  the  florists  have 
not  overpraised.  It  is  every  bit  as  good  as  it  is 
claimed  to  be.  Though  equally  at  home  in  a  hanging- 
basket  or  on  a  trellis,  I  have  found  it  most  attractive 


Eleven]  mt&  '37 

when  grown  on  strings  across  the  window  in  com- 
pany with  Solanum  jasminoides,  whose  sprays  of 
airy  white  flowers  contrast  with  the  orange  and  scarlet 
of  the  Manettia.  A  small  plant  obtained  from  the 
florist  in  spring  and  potted  in  a  four-inch  pot,  with 
good  compost,  will  be  ready  to  bloom  by  November, 
and  will  remain  in  bloom  from  that  time  until  spring, 
when  it  should  be  repotted  in  a  six-inch  pot  and 
plunged  in  the  sand-box  to  grow  for  winter  blooming. 
The  only  precaution  necessary  is  to  keep  it  in  a  small 
pot,  as  it  blooms  more  freely  when  pot-bound.  Cut 
back  if  not  branching  freely,  as  the  bloom  comes  at 
the  ends  of  the  new  growth. 

Clematis  (Virgin's  Bower) 

THE  large-flowered  Clematis  are  the  most  expen- 
sive vines  we  have.  So  slowly  do  they  propa- 
gate from  cuttings  that  the  price  remains  high  from 
year  to  year.  The  cheapest  way  to  obtain  them  is 
to  raise  them  from  seed  and,  though  this  is  a  more 
or  less  uncertain  method,  the  expense  is  so  slight  com- 
pared to  the  purchase  of  plants  that  where  many  are 
required  it  is  worth  repeated  efforts.  Plant  the  seeds 
in  flats  in  the  house  either  in  fall  or  spring.  Cover 
an  eighth  of  an  inch  and  press  the  soil  down  firmly, 
keeping  moist  and  warm.  They  germinate  in  from 
six  weeks  to  a  year;  for  this  reason  fall  planting  is 
desirable,  as  the  soil  may  more  easily  be  kept  in  the 


138  T*he  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

right  condition.  When  the  plants  are  large  enough 
to  handle,  pot  off  into  small  pots  and  plunge  in  the 
sand-box,  if  the  weather  is  warm  enough,  or  in  a 
sunny  window  if  cold.  Winter  in  a  frost-proof  cellar 
the  first  winter,  putting  them  in  the  open  ground 
where  they  are  to  remain  till  the  following  spring. 
The  plants  will  give  a  few  blossoms  the  second  season, 
enough  to  show  the  variety,  and  the  next  year  may 
be  expected  to  bloom  freely.  Plants  raised  from  seed 
are  more  likely  to  bloom  and  do  well  than  those  from 
cuttings. 

Clematis  paniculata  comes  more  freely  from  seed 
than  the  Jackmanni  strains,  and  should  be  largely 
grown,  as  it  is  one  of  our  loveliest  vines  and  blooms 
when  most  others  have  ceased.  Clematis  flammula 
self-sows  and  established  little  plants  are  continually 
coming  up  in  unexpected  places,  which  may  be  re- 
moved to  any  desired  position,  as  this  variety  does  not 
in  the  least  mind  being  disturbed.  All  Clematis  are 
benefited  by  winter  protection,  and  such  varieties  as 
Ramona  and  other  spring  bloomers  should  have  the 
tops  protected  with  sacking  or  old  carpet.  Mrs.  Ed- 
ward Andre  dies  to  the  ground  in  the  winter,  but 
should  be  well  protected  around  the  roots.  Many 
growers  cut  back  Clematis  to  within  a  few  feet  of  the 
ground  each  fall,  but  where  large  spaces  are  to  be  cov- 
ered one  loses  much  time,  as  the  frost  usually  does  all 
the  trimming  necessary.  The  early  spring  bloomers 
from  last  season's  wood  and  cutting  back  in  the  fall 


Eleven]  tHM*  139 

simply  lessen  the  blossom  points.  If  it  is  necessary 
to  trim  for  symmetry  or  lack  of  room  it  should  be 
done  immediately  after  the  plants  are  through  bloom- 
ing, that  they  may  have  abundant  time  for  new 
growth. 

Bignonia  Radicans 

(Trumpet  Vine) 

IT  is  to  be  regretted  that  this  fine  vine  is  so  com- 
mon and  old-fashioned  that  no  one  seems  to 
appreciate  it  sufficiently  to  bring  it  up  to  its  really 
magnificent  possibilities.  When  grown  as  a  shrub  no 
finer  plant  for  a  hedge  could  possibly  be  desired.  For 
this  purpose  the  plants  should  be  set  about  three  feet 
apart,  or  even  closer,  if  it  is  desired  that  the  hedge 
should  be  useful  as  well  as  ornamental.  Set  in  an 
even  row  where  the  hedge  is  desired,  tie  each  plant 
to  a  stout  stake,  and  allow  only  one  branch  to  grow, 
cutting  this  back  when  three  feet  high  to  form  the 
head,  which  should  be  made  to  branch  freely.  By 
the  time  the  stake  has  rotted  away  the  plant  will  have 
made  a  trunk  as  large  as  one's  wrist  and  perfectly  self- 
supporting.  All  dead  and  weak  branches  should  be 
trimmed  out  each  year  and  the  hedge  kept  pruned 
back  to  symmetrical  growth.  If  the  seed-pods  are  not 
allowed  to  form  the  plant  will  be  in  bloom  nearly  all 
summer.  Such  a  hedge  will  be  a  thing  to  bequeath 
to  posterity  along  with  old  oaks  and  fine  elms. 


140  The  Flower  Garden 

The  Trumpet  Vine  is  equally  desirable  as  a  climber, 
and  on  some  surfaces  is  self-supporting,  but  on  others, 
as  the  side  of  a  building  or  a  board  fence,  it  often  fails 
to  attach  itself,  and  in  that  case  must  be  artificially 
supported.  This  should  be  very  securely  done,  as  a 
hard  storm  may  tear  a  heavy-topped  specimen  en- 
tirely away  from  its  support  and  do  much  damage. 
The  best  support  is  afforded  by  stretching  a  galvan- 
ised wire  across  a  branch,  just  under  a  joint,  and  fast- 
ening each  end  by  a  staple  driven  firmly  into  the 
building. 

Grown  as  a  shrub  on  the  lawn  the  Trumpet  Vine  is 
very  fine  and  should  be  trained  to  a  stake  and  grown 
the  same  as  a  Kilmarnock  Willow.  Every  year,  as  my 
Bignonias  bloom,  I  grow  more  and  more  enthusiastic 
over  their  possibilities,  and  wish  more  people  would 
grow  them  with  some  definite  aim  in  view. 


Chapter   TWELVE 

$rnametital  jfoltage  plants  from 


Canna  (Indian  Shot) 

ALL  Cannas — the  gorgeous  orchid-flow- 
ered, as  well  as  the  old-fashioned  sorts 
— can  be  easily  and  cheaply  grown 
from  seed  and  will  give  blossoming 
plants  almost  as  soon  as  those  started 
from  bulbs.    When  one  must  buy  plants  and  the  fine 
new  varieties  are  desired,  the  starting  of  an  eight-  or 
ten-foot  bed  is  a  matter  for  economical  consideration. 
Five  or  six  dollars  is  as  little  as  one  can  expect  to  pay 
for  such  a  bed  if  plants  are  purchased,  but  by  starting 
the  seed  the  cost  is  reduced  to  a  mere  bagatelle.     It 
is  better  to  buy  seed  by  the  ounce,  as  not  all  will  come 
up,  and  one  should  make  sure  of  a  sufficient  quantity. 
The  seed  must  be  filed  on  the  end  opposite  the  germ, 
so  that  the  white  shows  through  plainly,  and  the  best 
way  to  do  it  is  to  tack  a  piece  of  medium  sand-paper 
to  a  piece  of  wood  and  rub  the  seed  on  that.     It  is 
better  to  do  this  before  they  are  wanted,  as  it  is  a 

141 


142  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

tedious  process  when  one  is  in  a  hurry.  Soak  the 
seeds  in  hot  water  for  an  hour  or  two  before  planting 
and  sow  in  hotbed  or  flat,  keeping  moist  and  warm. 
When  large  enough  to  handle,  prick  out  in  thumb- 
pots  and  place  in  a  warm,  sunny  window.  It  would 
be  even  better  to  start  them  in  tiny  pots,  plunged  in 
a  box  of  sand  or  in  the  hotbed,  to  avoid  danger  in 
removing,  as  they  sometimes  suffer  in  the  process. 
Though  one  of  the  toughest  plants  when  of  some  size, 
the  little  seedlings  are  exceedingly  tender.  Shift  as 
needed  until  time  to  place  in  the  open  ground  when 
all  danger  of  frost  is  past.  Plant,  if  possible,  in  muck 
well  manured,  as  Cannas  do  exceptionally  well  in  that 
soil  and  can  scarcely  have  too  much  food  and  water. 
Unless  one  has  city  water  or  other  supply  it  is  better 
to  make  the  Canna  bed  somewhat  lower  than  the 
lawn,  that  all  the  water  may  be  retained  and  not  run 
off,  as  it  will  if  the  beds  are  raised.  If  tall-growing 
varieties  are  grown  in  the  centre  the  effect  will  be  as 
good  as  though  the  bed  were  raised  and  less  water 
will  be  needed.  A  good  mulch  of  lawn  clippings  will 
help  to  keep  the  soil  moist,  mellow,  and  free  from 
weeds  and  will  greatly  lessen  the  care  of  it.  Seed 
sown  in  February  or  March  will  give  blooming  plants 
in  June,  and  by  fall  there  will  be  a  fine  lot  of  roots 
to  store  away  for  another  year. 

Coleus,  which  are  practically  indispensable  in  all 
ornamental  bedding,  are  easily  raised  from  seed  and 
will  make  fine  plants  by  June.  Start  seed  in  rather 


Twelve]      jfoltage  $lants          143 

deep  flats  in  the  house  in  February  or  March,  covering 
lightly  and  giving  a  warm  place  (see  directions  for 
growing  house-plants  from  seed).  They  germinate 
in  from  five  to  seven  days.  As  soon  as  the  plants  have 
their  first  true  leaves  place  in  a  warm,  sunny  window 
and  encourage  them  to  grow  as  rapidly  as  possible. 
When  they  have  two  or  three  leaves  the  colours  will 
be  sufficiently  developed  to  admit  of  making  selec- 
tions, and  if  the  box  is  at  all  crowded  they  can  be 
potted  off  and  grown  on  until  time  to  plant  out. 
Coleus  are  very  sensitive  to  cold  and  should  not  be 
planted  out  in  the  open  ground  until  the  nights  are 
warm.  Never  allow  the  Coleus  to  flower,  as  this  in- 
jures the  foliage  greatly.  Pinch  out  the  flower  heads 
as  they  appear.  Water  liberally  and  pinch  back  oc- 
casionally to  symmetrical  form.  Any  soil  that  suits 
the  Canna,  or  other  ornamental  foliage  plant,  will  do 
for  the  Coleus — a  light,  sandy  loam  enriched  with 
manure  is  as  good  as  anything,  and  leaf-mould  an- 
swers admirably. 

Where  a  quantity  of  Cineraria,  or  Dusty  Miller,  is 
needed  for  borders,  it  is  much  more  economical  to 
grow  from  seed,  starting  them  in  hotbeds  and  plant- 
ing out  when  all  danger  of  frost  is  past,  setting  six 
inches  apart. 


144  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

Ricinus,   or  Castor-oil  Bean 

PROBABLY  the  most  effective  and  tropical-look- 
ing plant  in  cultivation  to-day  is  the  Ricinus, 
and  fortunately  it  is  within  the  reach  of  everyone.  It 
is  usually  seen  as  a  solitary  specimen  on  the  lawn,  or 
as  the  centre  of  a  bed  of  other  plants,  or  probably  in 
a  long  row;  it  is  more  effective,  however,  in  a  group, 
and  thus  grown  makes  a  good  background  for  low 
plants.  Seed  should  be  started  early  in  house  or  hot- 
beds. It  germinates  in  twelve  to  fifteen  days.  The 
best  results  will  be  obtained  when  started  in  the  house 
by  planting  in  three-  or  four-inch  pots.  Put  two  or 
three  seeds  in  a  pot  and  remove  all  but  one  if  more 
come  up.  Before  filling  the  pots  with  earth  mixed 
with  good  compost,  a  piece  of  shard,  or  flat  stone, 
should  be  placed  over  the  drainage  hole  to  confine  the 
roots,  as  they  make  a  very  rapid  growth.  Shift  into 
larger  pots  as  required,  and  plant  out  when  all  danger 
of  frost  is  past  in  a  deep,  rich  soil.  Marsh  earth  is 
best,  but  where  this  is  not  available  any  good  garden 
soil  will  answer  if  heavily  manured  and  well  watered. 
The  young  plants  are  somewhat  backward  after 
transplanting  and  frequently  refuse  to  grow  at  all,  so 
that  it  is  well  to  have  a  few  plants  in  reserve  against 
a  possible  emergency.  After  the  plants  are  a  foot 
high,  little  if  any  trouble  will  be  experienced.  The 
newer  Zanzibar  varieties  are  the  most  desirable,  being 
very  fine  both  in  colour  and  development,  growing 


OF  THE 

UIMIVERSIT 

OF 

C-.  ^.»N 


Twelve]      jfoltage  plants 

under  favourable  conditions  from  eight  to  ten  feet 
tall  with  leaves  three  feet  in  diameter. 

Banana  plants  are  very  showy  and  attractive  and 
in  the  North  are  more  or  less  of  a  novelty.  They  may 
be  planted  out  in  the  open  ground  or  in  tubs  when  all 
danger  of  frost  is  over.  Though  less  sensitive  to  root 
disturbance  than  the  Ricinus,  they  are  very  impatient 
of  the  immediate  presence  of  other  plants,  and  young 
plants  should  be  grown  by  themselves.  Robust  two- 
year-old  plants,  however,  may  be  used  as  centres  for 
beds  of  Cannas  or  similar  plants  with  fine  effect. 
When  obtainable  they  should  be  given  a  compost  of 
muck  and  old  manure  and  supplied  with  a  very  lib- 
eral amount  of  water;  the  water  from  the  laundry 
and  kitchen  should  be  saved  for  them,  as  one  can 
scarcely  overfeed  them.  Give  a  warm,  sunny  situa- 
tion, protected  from  rough  winds,  which  whip  and 
tear  the  broad  leaves,  rendering  them  most  unsightly. 
A  southeast  angle  of  building  or  shrubbery  furnishes 
an  ideal  location.  In  the  fall  the  plants  may  be  re- 
moved to  the  cellar  in  the  tubs  in  which  they  have 
been  grown,  or  they  may  be  lifted,  if  grown  in 
the  open  ground,  and  planted  in  suitable  tubs  for 
the  adornment  of  the  conservatory  or  living-room. 
Grown  indoors  they  are  very  ornamental,  the  foliage 
being  perfect,  which  is  rarely  the  case  out  of  doors. 
It  is  also  much  easier  to  carry  the  plants  through  the 
winter  in  this  way;  as  they  are  very  sensitive  to  cold 
and  damp  when  dormant  and  cannot  be  carried  sue- 


146  "The  Flower  Garden 

cessfully  in  a  cellar  where  these  conditions  exist,  even 
though  it  be  free  from  frost.  In  the  South — and  the 
same  method  may  be  employed  in  the  North,  provided 
the  cellar  conditions  are  right — the  plants  are  dug 
up,  the  soil  removed,  and  the  roots  wrapped  in  gunny- 
sacks  and  laid  on  a  shelf  in  the  cellar,  all  the  leaves 
being  removed  except  the  central  one,  which  must  be 
carefully  protected  from  all  injury. 


Chapter   THIRTEEN 

lulfcous  atiti  Cuterous=rooteti 
Pants 

C  ANNAS  may  be  started  any  time  in  April 
or  May.    The  old-fashioned  tall-grow- 
ing varieties  may  be  put  in  the  open 
ground   early   in   May.      Cover  with 
three  or  four  inches  of  soil  and  pro- 
tect the  bed  with  a  little  rough  manure  if  the  nights 
are  cold,  the  finest  of  the  manure  being  left  to  enrich 
the  soil  when  the  plants  are  up. 

The  large-flowering  French  and  Orchid-flowered 
Cannas  are  delicate  and  very  sensitive  to  cold  and 
damp  and  should  be  started  in  the  house  with  heat. 
Divide  the  roots  into  points  and  pot  separately  in 
leaf-mould,  or  they  may  be  placed  in  baskets  of  sand 
set  in  a  warm,  sunny  place  and  kept  constantly  moist ; 
this  is  the  simplest  and  best  way  of  handling  them. 
Cannas  are  less  likely  to  mould  or  decay  in  sand  than 
in  soil,  and  it  is  easier  to  keep  a  uniform  degree  of 
moisture  in  the  baskets  than  in  the  small  pots.  The 
baskets  should  be  partly  filled  with  fine  white  sand 
and  the  roots  laid  in  place,  points  up,  as  closely  as 

14? 


148  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

convenient,  and  sufficient  sand  added  to  cover  them. 
They  must  not  be  planted  out  until  all  danger  of 
frost  is  past  and  the  nights  are  warm,  and  they  should 
then  be  handled  very  carefully  to  avoid  injuring  the 
tender  roots.  Give  them  a  soil  of  muck  or  heavily 
manured  loam  and  abundance  of  water.  The  most 
convenient  place  for  starting  bulbs  of  all  kinds  is 
a  warm  upstairs  room,  over  a  kitchen  or  elsewhere, 
with  a  south  or  west  light.  A  wide  shelf  may  be  ar- 
ranged under  the  windows  and  one's  entire  supply  of 
bulbs  started  there  in  pots  and  baskets  out  of  the  way. 
Seeds  of  flowers  and  vegetables  may  also  be  started 
there  to  advantage. 

Dahlias  are  best  started  in  the  baskets  of  sand, 
putting  the  bunches  in  whole,  with  the  crown  just  be- 
low the  surface  of  the  sand.  When  they  have 
sprouted  and  the  weather  is  warm  they  should  be  re- 
moved from  the  sand  and  carefully  divided.  A  num- 
ber of  tubers  will  have  failed  to  start,  while  others 
will  have  thrown  several  shoots.  If  the  number  of 
plants  is  not  sufficient  more  may  be  secured  by  graft- 
ing part  of  the  green  shoots  into  the  dormant  toes. 
Remove  a  shoot,  cut  the  end  to  a  wedge  shape,  re- 
move a  corresponding  wedge  from  the  crown  of  a 
toe  and  insert  the  shoot;  it  should  rest  in  the  toe  an 
inch  or  more  and  be  placed  in  the  ground  at  once 
— drawing  the  earth  around  it  snugly  that  the  scion 
may  be  in  no  danger  of  separating  from  the  toe  be- 
fore it  has  formed  a  union.  Only  one  shoot  should 


Thirteen]  UjOUS  EttS  '49 

be  left  on  a  tuber,  and  the  removal  of  the  extra  ones 
for  grafting  is  a  distinct  gain.  Whenever  it  is  nec- 
essary to  divide  the  roots  a  portion  of  the  stem  with 
a  well-defined  eye  must  be  given  to  each  division, 
otherwise  there  will  be  no  top  growth;  the  toes  will 
root,  but  they  will  not  grow.  For  further  directions 
see  chapter  on  growing  Dahlias  from  seed. 

Caladium  esculentum,  or  Elephant's  Ears,  is  a  na- 
tive of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  it  furnishes  a 
staple  article  of  food  called  Poa.  The  root  when 
cooked  is  like  a  potato.  It  is  better  to  start  sepa- 
rately in  pots  an  inch  larger  than  the  bulbs,  setting 
the  top  of  the  bulb  just  above  the  surface  of  the 
soil.  Pot  with  muck  or  good  compost  and  keep 
moist  and  warm.  They  respond  to  heat  and  moist- 
ure the  most  readily  of  all  dormant  bulbs,  beginning 
to  grow  at  once  and  making  steady  progress,  the 
root  growth  keeping  step  with  the  top  much  more 
uniformly  than  is  usual  with  bulbs  that  are  wintered 
dry.  It  is  an  ideal  plant  for  the  amateur,  as  easily 
grown  as  a  hill  of  corn.  If  fine  plants  are  desired 
only  those  bulbs  showing  a  live  centre-shoot  should 
be  used.  If  the  winter  conditions  have  been  favour- 
able the  bulbs  will  show  a  strong  centre-shoot  or 
rolled-up  leaf;  where  this  has  decayed  or  dried  off 
there  will  frequently  be  side-shoots  which  are  worth 
saving  when  the  supply  of  bulbs  is  small,  and  which 
will  produce  fair  results,  but  for  really  good  plants 
the  centre-shoot  is  necessary. 


I50 


The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 


Plant  out  when  all  danger  of  frost  is  past,  in  muck 
if  possible,  or  in  heavily  manured  loam;  the  more 
freely  they  are  watered  the  finer  will  be  the  growth. 
Old  bulbs  should  give  leaves  three  feet  or  more  in 
length  and  correspondingly  wide. 

Single  specimens  are  fine  in  pots,  vases,  or  tiles, 
but  they  are  really  seen  at  their  best  in  large  clumps 
on  the  lawn,  or  edging  beds  of  Cannas  or  other  sub- 
tropical plants. 

They  are  easily  wintered  and  multiply  very  rapidly ; 
and,  as  much  better  effects  can  be  obtained  by  plant- 
ing largely  of  one  variety,  an  effort  should  be  made 
to  have  a  generous  supply.  Aim  for  a  tropical  luxu- 
riance of  effect — whether  the  plants  used  are  Cannas, 
Caladiums,  Ricinus,  or  all  three. 

Tuberous  Begonias  should  be  started  at  the  same 
time  as  the  Caladiums,  Cannas,  and  other  tuberous 
plants.  Pot  singly  in  small  pots  of  leaf-mould,  set- 
ting the  tuber  level  with  the  surface  of  the  earth, 
but  shaping  the  soil  away  from  it  toward  the  edge 
of  the  pot  that  water  may  not  settle  around  it.  The 
side  showing  a  slight  depression  is  the  top.  Often 
it  is  difficult  to  determine  this,  in  which  case  the  bulb 
may  be  laid  on  the  surface  until  growth  begins  and 
the  fact  can  be  determined,  when  it  may  be  potted. 
Do  not  keep  too  warm,  as  that  induces  a  leggy 
growth;  a  temperature  of  about  60°  is  right. 

Bed  out,  when  all  danger  of  frost  is  past,  in  partial 
shade.  In  England  it  is  claimed  that  they  will  stand 


$uHtou0 


the  hottest  sun,  but  the  atmosphere  of  England  is  very 
different  from  our  dry  air,  and  the  tuberous  Begonia 
does  better  with  us  if  shaded.  Where  there  is  no 
natural  shade  an  awning  of  cotton  cloth  during  the 
hottest  part  of  the  day  answers  every  purpose.  Glox- 
inias are  started  the  same  as  tuberous  Begonias  and 
require  practically  the  same  treatment,  but  more  heat. 
Fuller  cultural  directions  are  given  in  the  chapter  on 
growing  from  seed. 

Fancy-leaved  Caladiums,  though  belonging  to  the 
same  family  as  C.  esculentum,  bear  little  resemblance 
to  that  sturdier  branch,  being  small  in  growth,  gor- 
geous in  colouring,  and  exceedingly  delicate.  Unlike 
the  Crotons  and  Coleus,  which  revel  in  full  sunshine, 
they  develop  their  beautiful  colours  best  in  partial  or 
complete  shade.  They  do,  however,  love  a  warm 
atmosphere  and  must  be  guarded  against  sudden  chills 
and  draughts.  They  are  very  desirable  for  window- 
boxes  on  the  north  side  of  the  house,  for  growing  in 
sheltered  nooks,  and  for  warm,  sheltered  positions  on 
porches.  Several  may  be  grouped  together  in  a  ten- 
inch  pot  very  effectively,  as  they  require  but  little 
room.  They  may  be  brought  inside  in  the  fall,  and 
kept  growing  until  they  show  signs  of  resting,  when 
water  should  be  gradually  withheld  until  the  leaves 
have  ripened.  The  pots  should  then  be  set  away  in  a 
warm,  dry  place  —  as  a  shelf  in  a  closet  —  until  wanted 
the  following  spring. 

Such  wonderful  things  have  been  accomplished  in 


152  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

Gladiohis  culture  that  one  scarcely  recognises  the  old 
favourite.  All  along  the  line,  size,  colour,  texture, 
markings  show  the  effect  of  a  high  state  of  cultiva- 
tion and  careful  hybridising.  The  Childsi  are,  per- 
haps, the  finest;  while  several  of  the  strains  of  giant 
Gladiolus  show  wonderful  size  and  colour.  They 
increase  rapidly,  and  one  should  buy  a  few  bulbs  each 
year  so  as  to  maintain  a  high  standard. 

When  ready  to  plant,  remove  all  loose  husks,  dead 
roots,  and  stalks,  leaving  the  bulb  clean  and  fair. 
Plant  directly  in  the  open  ground,  sufficiently  late 
for  frost  to  have  gone  by  the  time  they  are  up.  Plant 
the  bulbs  eight  inches  deep  in  fine  leaf-mould,  or  a 
mixture  of  muck,  loam  and  old  manure,  or  even  well- 
enriched  garden  loam.  Planted  deeply  they  will  not 
need  staking — an  important  point  in  growing  Glad- 
ioli ;  nor  will  they  be  so  much  affected  by  cold,  heat, 
or  draught  as  in  the  case  of  shallow  planting,  and  may 
be  planted  earlier  and  left  much  later  in  the  fall,  giv- 
ing the  bulbs  more  time  to  ripen. 

They  should  be  cultivated  frequently  during  the 
summer  or  well  mulched  and  supplied  with  water  as 
needed.  No  seed  should  be  allowed  to  form,  as  the 
plants  make  new  bulbs  each  year,  sometimes  several, 
and  that,  with  the  production  of  flowers,  is  enough 
for  one  plant.  A  plant  that  seeds  freely  will  not  pro- 
duce as  many  or  as  good  bulbs.  Take  up  in  the  fall 
before  the  ground  begins  to  freeze,  and  put  in  a  warm, 
sunny  place  for  a  few  days  to  dry.  Remove  the  stems 


Thirteen]  tlOUS  attS  '53 

by  cutting  off  six  or  eight  inches  above  the  bulb,  but 
do  not  attempt  to  pull  or  break  them,  as  that  will 
injure  the  new  shoot  which  lies  just  inside  the  old 
stalk.  Tie  in  bunches  and  hang  in  a  dry,  cool  place, 
free  from  frost,  or  store  in  paper  sacks. 

Montbretias  resemble  the  Gladioli  in  flower  and 
foliage,  but  are  very  slender  of  growth.  They  throw 
long,  graceful  sprays  of  brilliant  scarlet,  orange,  and 
lemon,  very  desirable  for  cut  flowers.  The  flowers 
open  successively,  as  do  the  Gladioli,  and  are  in  bloom 
a  long  time.  They  may  be  grown  in  the  corners  of 
the  Gladiolus  bed  with  good  effect.  The  culture  is 
the  same,  except  that  the  Montbretias  are  not  plant- 
ed so  deeply — about  three  inches.  They  multiply 
very  rapidly — about  fourfold,  and  are  as  easily  cared 
for  as  the  Gladioli. 

Tigridias  (Shell  Flowers)  are  beautiful  in  colour, 
and  odd  in  shape,  and  rather  gorgeous  in  effect 
whether  set  singly  or  in  groups.  The  colours  are  a 
pure  white,  white  with  lilac,  purple  and  white,  yellow 
and  orange  with  dark  spots,  white  with  a  brownish 
spot  on  a  yellow  ground,  and  rose  colour.  The  flower 
remains  open  for  only  a  day,  but  as  there  is  always 
another  to  take  its  place  it  is  not  missed.  They  would 
better  be  started  in  the  house  in  pots  and  bedded  out 
when  frost  is  past,  as,  planted  in  the  open  ground, 
they  sometimes  fail  to  appear.  Lift  and  dry  in  fall 
and  store  in  a  dry,  warm  place  during  winter,  exam- 
ining occasionally  for  mould  or  grey  lice.  The  leaf 


154  'The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

much  resembles  that  of  the  date-palm,  being  ribbed 
and  pointed  at  either  end. 

Summer-blooming  Oxalis  are  very  desirable  plants 
for  borders.  They  are  extensively  grown  in  parks 
and  public  gardens,  but  are  little  seen  in  private 
grounds.  They  are  the  most  easily  raised  of  all  the 
bulbous  plants  and  increase  in  a  manner  quite  alarm- 
ing, each  bulb  forming  a  long  tuber  resembling  a 
white  radish  in  general  appearance,  and  covered  with 
small  bulbs — probably  fifty — the  top  being  crowned 
with  one  large  bulb,  the  source  of  the  season's 
florescence.  These  bulbs  are  not  a  solid  body,  as 
would  appear  at  first  glance,  but  are  made  up  of 
hundreds  of  minute  scales  like  a  lily  bulb.  Added 
to  its  interesting  character  below  ground  is  its  rather 
remarkable  performance  above  ground.  It  comes 
into  leaf  and  blossom  two  weeks  after  planting, 
about  the  time  the  first  tiny  tips  of  other  bulbs  ap- 
pear. 

One  great  advantage  of  this  precocity  of  growth  is 
that  Oxalis  may  be  substituted  when  for  any  reason 
other  border  plants  have  failed  to  come  up  and  it  is 
necessary  to  replace  them  in  a  hurry.  Often  a  hardy 
border  plant  winter-kills  and  one  keeps  waiting  for 
it  to  start  until  it  is  too  late  to  get  plants  from  seed, 
then  the  little  Oxalis  comes  to  the  rescue. 

Buy  them  by  the  hundred  and  set  about  three  inches 
apart  and  about  two  inches  deep.  Take  up  in  the 
fall  and  put  in  a  sunny  place  to  dry,  turning  often; 


Thirteen]  3SUlfrOUg         lailtg  155 


when  dry  remove  from  the  centre  tuber  and  sort,  sav- 
ing the  largest  bulbs. 

Crinums  and  Amaryllis 

FOR  the  past  year  or  so  an  unusual  amount  of  in- 
terest has  been  shown  in  this  magnificent  class 
of  plants,  followed  in  many  instances  by  grievous  dis- 
appointment, as,  led  away  by  the  glowing  descrip- 
tions of  the  dealers,  investments  are  made  in  bulbs 
whose  proper  culture  is  entirely  unknown.  It  is  to  be 
regretted  that  dealers  sending  out  bulbs  requiring  spe- 
cial treatment  —  as  the  Crinums  —  do  not  give  instruc- 
tions for  their  culture.  It  would  save  a  vast  amount 
of  disappointment,  complaint,  and  distrust.  Unfort- 
unately many  florists  do  not  themselves  understand 
their  requirements;  they  merely  purchase  the  bulbs 
from  other  dealers,  and  publish  trade  advertisements 
and  illustrations. 

Seen  in  bloom  under  proper  conditions  and  treat- 
ment it  is  not  strange  that  florists  wax  eloquent  in 
their  praise,  and  invest  heavily  in  bulbs  which  they 
sell  to  an  ignorant  and  confiding  public.  There  is, 
however,  little  difficulty  in  growing  the  Crinum  —  in- 
deed, I  know  of  no  plant  more  easily  grown,  once  it 
is  understood. 

Most  of  the  complaints  show  that  there  has  been 
no  effort  made  to  study  the  nature  of  the  plant.  A 
little  study  would  show  that  an  immense  bulb  like 


156  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

Crinum  ornatum  must  have  a  generous  supply  of 
roots  to  sustain  it;  that  these  roots  must  have  time 
to  grow,  commensurate  with  the  length  of  time  the 
bulb  has  been  out  of  the  ground,  and  that  not  much 
could  be  expected  of  it  until  these  conditions  were  ful- 
filled. These  facts  are  obvious  from  a  study  of  the 
dry  bulb,  other  facts  are  only  arrived  at  after  expe- 
rience with  the  Crinum  as  a  plant. 

The  root  growth  is  quite  in  keeping  with  the  size 
of  the  bulb;  it  forms  great  quantities  of  fleshy  white 
roots  as  thick  as  pipe-stems,  which  are  very  impatient 
of  disturbance  and  should  be  left  practically  unmo- 
lested for  a  number  of  years.  When  a  bulb  is  pre- 
pared for  market  these  roots  are  all  removed.  It  is 
not  strange  that  when  called  upon  to  rally  from  the 
shock  of  dismemberment  and  to  replace  the  entire 
root  growth  it  should  sometimes  fail  to  bloom  as 
readily  as  expected.  Often  only  a  portion  of  the 
former  roots  start  again,  and  this  must  be  taken  into 
consideration  when  anticipating  bloom. 

When  a  dry  bulb  is  received  from  the  florist  it 
should  be  potted  at  once  in  a  pot  two  inches  larger  in 
diameter  than  the  bulb,  that  is,  one  allowing  one 
inch  of  space  between  the  pot  and  the  bulb  all  around. 
Good  potting  soil,  loam,  leaf-mould,  or  muck,  good 
sharp  sand  and  old,  well-rotted  manure  should  be 
used.  I  do  not  think  the  muck  absolutely  essential, 
except  in  the  case  of  C.  Americana,  which  may  be 
grown  in  pure  muck,  but  good  fibrous  loam  and  sharp 


Thirteen]  UlOUS  attS  >57 

sand  must  be  used.  Place  an  inch  or  two  of  drainage 
material  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  covering  with 
sphagnum  moss  to  keep  the  water  from  washing  the 
soil  into  the  drain  and  clogging  it ;  fill  within  an  inch 
of  the  top  of  the  pot  with  soil ;  press  the  bulb  into  it, 
making  a  depression  the  shape  of  the  base  of  the  bulb 
and  a  couple  of  inches  deep;  line  this  hollow  an  inch 
deep  with  clean  white  sand,  replace  the  bulb,  water, 
and  give  a  warm,  sunny  position.  The  bulb  may  be 
lifted  and  examined  daily  without  injury,  to  note  the 
root  development  and  to  watch  for  signs  of  blue- 
mould,  which  is  apt  to  attack  the  Crinum  if  slow  in 
rooting  and  which,  when  it  appears,  should  be  care- 
fully wiped  off.  As  soon  as  the  root  growth  has 
fairly  commenced  the  bulb  must  not  again  be  dis- 
turbed, as  there  is  then  danger  of  injuring  the  root. 
This  inspection  shows  the  root  development  the  bulb 
is  likely  to  make,  and  gives  an  idea  of  the  probable 
florescence.  The  bulb  is  planted  on  top,  and  not  in  the 
soil,  but  if  it  makes  the  root  growth  it  should  that 
will  hold  it  as  firmly  as  though  it  were  entirely  em- 
bedded. 

Usually  a  bulb  will  bloom  in  about  three  months 
from  potting,  sometimes  sooner,  but  it  is  better  to 
allow  it  a  margin  of  time.  Few  leaves  are  made  up 
to  blooming  time,  but  after  the  bloom  has  faded  the 
foliage  grows  rapidly  and,  in  the  case  of  large  bulbs, 
is  really  magnificent.  When  the  foliage  begins  to 
fade  and  turn  yellow  at  the  tips  the  growth  for  the 


158  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

season  is  practically  over,  and  water  should  be  grad- 
ually withheld,  and  the  plant  allowed  to  rest.  From 
this  time  on  give  only  sufficient  water  to  keep  the 
plant  from  going  dust-dry.  Enough  water  may  be 
given  to  keep  the  roots  from  shrivelling  but  not  suf- 
ficient to  induce  top  growth.  Soon  after  starting  it 
will  be  noticed,  perhaps,  that  the  bulb  has  shrunk  and 
grown  smaller  and  somewhat  soft.  As  the  foliage 
dies  it  becomes  firm  and  hard  again,  the  strength  of 
the  top  has  returned  to  the  bulb  from  which  it  came, 
and  it  is  at  this  period  that  it  makes  its  own  growth 
and  prepares  for  another  season  of  bloom,  readiness 
for  which  it  will  announce  by  beginning  to  grow 
though  water  be  withheld.  The  top  earth — which 
should  be  dry  at  this  time — should  be  removed  as 
far  as  possible  without  disturbing  the  roots,  and  re- 
placed with  good,  rich  soil.  Water  freely,  and  when 
the  buds  appear  give  a  little  weak  liquid  manure  once 
a  week.  The  second  blooming  will  be  much  finer 
than  the  first,  as  the  plant  has  now  sufficient  root 
growth  to  support  both  stalk  and  blossom. 

Should  the  bulb  outgrow  its  quarters  it  may  be 
shifted  into  a  pot  two  sizes  larger,  care  being  taken 
not  to  disturb  the  roots.  In  this  way  the  Crinum  may 
be  grown  on  from  year  to  year,  shifting  when  really 
necessary,  renewing  the  top-soil  each  year  without  dis- 
turbing the  roots  and  allowing  it  seasons  of  complete 
rest.  This  is  the  whole  secret  of  Crinum  culture — 
undisturbed  root  action  and  well-defined  seasons  of 


Thirteen]  tlOUS  tlS  '59 

rest  and  growth.  It  requires  a  warm,  sunny  window 
in  winter,  and  an  eastern  exposure  in  summer,  where 
it  will  get  the  full  morning  sun  and  be  protected  from 
rough  winds  which  injure  the  foliage.  In  protected 
situations  certain  varieties,  as  C.  Kunthianum,  hold 
their  great  leaves  erect  and  are  very  fine;  they  will 
not  do  this  when  exposed  to  wind.  Care  must  be 
taken  to  protect  them  from  heavy  rain,  as  water  set- 
tling in  the  leaves  sometimes  causes  the  bulb  to  rot. 
I  have  lost  some  very  fine  specimens  from  this  cause. 
A  protected  sand-box  is  an  ideal  place  for  them,  as 
the  evaporation  from  the  wet  sand  supplies  just  the 
moist  atmosphere  they  like.  They  may  be  wintered 
in  a  warm,  dry  cellar,  but,  if  the  cellar  is  at  all  cold 
or  damp,  it  will  be  better  to  keep  them  on  the  back 
of  the  plant-stand  or  on  a  shelf  in  a  closet  where  they 
may  be  inspected  frequently. 

Crinums  are  such  expensive  floral  luxuries  that  it 
pays  to  take  good  care  of  them.  Many  varieties  make 
few  offshoots,  and  hence  can  never  become  cheap,  but 
there  is  a  distinct  pleasure  in  possessing  something 
rare  and  fine. 

Unfortunately  much  confusion  exists  in  regard  to 
the  two  Crinums,  Kirkii  and  ornatum,  and  the  same 
bulb  is  often  offered  under  different  names.  The 
dealers  themselves  seem  to  have  no  clear  idea  as  to 
which  is  which.  I  believe,  however,  that  ornatum  is 
distinguished  by  a  pink  stripe  through  the  centre  of 
each  petal,  while  the  corresponding  stripe  in  Kirkii 


160  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

is  reddish-purple;  these  two  are  the  most  uncertain 
and  unsatisfactory  of  all  Crinums  in  the  hands  of 
the  amateur. 

C.  Moorei,  also  often  offered  as  ornatum  or  Kirkii, 
is  one  of  the  choicest  Crinums  and  a  native  of  South 
Africa.  Its  flowers,  produced  in  umbels  of  from  ten 
to  twelve,  are  of  a  soft,  delicate  blush  with  a  pink 
bar  through  the  centre  of  each  petal.  It  is  deliciously 
fragrant,  and  the  large  bulb  and  handsome  foliage 
much  resemble  C.  ornatum.  C.  erubescens  is  an- 
other rare  tropical  species,  having  umbels  of  as  many 
as  a  dozen  lily-like  flowers  of  a  claret-purple  outside 
and  a  soft  pink  inside  with  filaments  of  dark  red. 
It  is  a  free  bloomer  of  easy  culture.  C.  Capense  rosea 
has  the  reputation  of  being  the  most  easily  grown  of 
any  Crinum,  and  is  quite  hardy  with  protection  as 
far  north  as  St.  Louis.  It  is  said  to  winter  in  the 
cellar  like  a  Dahlia.  Farther  north  it  should  be  given 
the  same  care  in  winter  as  other  varieties.  The  flow- 
ers are  numerous — white  flushed  with  rose  with  a  pink 
stripe  through  the  centre,  and  more  drooping  than 
the  flower  in  other  species.  C.  scabrum,  often  called 
Christ  and  the  Apostles,  having  thirteen  flowers, 
produces  an  abundance  of  pale-green  foliage  beauti- 
fully waved  and  crimped.  It  has  usually  two  flower 
scapes  at  once,  flowers  much  like  the  old  Annunciation 
Lily,  but  with  a  longer  tube,  so  that  the  outer  row 
droops.  The  six  broad  petals  are  pure,  sparkling 
white  with  a  light  red  stripe  down  the  outside  of 


Thirteen]  38Ul&OU£i 


each  and  a  pink  one  on  the  inside.  This  is  one  of 
the  most  desirable  varieties.  C.  fimbriatum  —  Milk- 
and-wine  Lily  —  is  much  like  C.  Kirkii  in  habit  and 
appearance,  but  smaller,  the  flowers  being  but  three 
or  four  inches  in  diameter,  the  foliage  more  erect 
and  sword-like. 

C.  pedunculatum  grows  to  a  magnificent  size,  fine 
specimens  averaging  six  feet  in  height  and  width. 
Its  flowers,  of  pure  white  with  purple  anthers,  are 
formed  in  umbels  of  thirty  or  more;  the  petals  are 
narrow  and  the  flowers  exquisitely  fragrant.  It  has 
a  queer  stump-like  bulb  which  grows  to  an  immense 
size,  and  is  an  evergreen,  producing  its  flowers  at  in- 
tervals through  the  year  like  C.  Americana,  which 
has  also  pure  white,  fragrant  flowers,  the  petals  long 
and  narrow.  The  latter,  when  in  bloom,  throws  up 
one  immense  spike  in  the  centre  of  the  foliage,  giving 
the  plant  the  appearance  of  a  great  rounded  bouquet. 
It  is  a  native  of  the  Florida  swamps,  and  should  be 
grown  in  muck  with  considerable  moisture,  blooming 
best  when  pot-bound.  C.  grandolia,  or  augustum,  is 
the  finest  of  all  the  Crinums:  one  grown  in  Florida 
"with  leaves  six  feet  long  and  correspondingly  wide, 
with  a  crown  of  bloom  the  size  of  a  bushel  measure." 
Its  umbels  of  flowers,  thirty  or  more  in  number,  with 
broad  petals  eight  inches  long,  make  a  magnificent 
display.  The  buds  are  a  purplish-red,  the  flowers, 
when  open,  a  blood  red  outside  and  a  delicate,  satiny 
flush  inside.  The  bulbs  grow  to  an  immense  size. 


i6a  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

C.  Kunthianum,  another  of  the  large-growing 
Crinums,  is  highly  to  be  recommended  for  amateur 
culture,  being  much  more  easily  managed  than  either 
ornatum  or  Kirkii.  It  is  evergreen,  and  has  broad 
strap  leaves  of  a  bluish  green  that,  in  the  house,  are 
held  erect,  and  for  this  reason  it  presents  the  finest 
appearance  of  all  Crinums.  It  throws  up  a  tall 
spike  crowned  with  ten  or  twelve  large,  lily-like  flow- 
ers of  a  rosy  white  with  crimson  stripes  through  the 
petals. 

The  general  treatment  of  Amaryllis  is  the  same  as 
for  Crinums.  Disturb  the  roots  as  little  as  possible, 
and  give  as  complete  seasons  of  rest  as  the  plant  seems 
to  require.  When  it  is  apparent  that  they  are  trying 
to  rest  they  should  not  be  forced  to  grow,  but  aided 
to  sleep  by  judicious  withholding  of  water,  temper- 
ing of  the  light,  and  the  like.  Evergreen  Amaryllis, 
like  the  Aulica  platypetala,  do  not  need  these  periods 
of  complete  rest,  but  they  need  a  partial  rest,  and  as 
long  as  no  new  leaves  appear  should  be  watered  mod- 
erately and  the  roots  left  undisturbed  as  long  as  pos- 
sible. Remove  all  offshoots  that  have  grown  to  any 
size  when  the  plant  starts  to  grow  and  the  top-soil 
is  being  renewed,  and  pot  them  off  in  small  pots  an 
inch  larger  than  the  bulbs.  The  number  of  fine  hy- 
brids have  increased  so  rapidly  of  late  years  that  it 
is  impossible  to  describe  them  separately,  as  many  of 
them  are  flaked  and  splashed  with  colour  in  a  won- 
derful manner.  Of  the  old-time  favourites  it  is 


Thirteen]  3$UlfcOllS   ^ktttS  163 


doubtful  if  any  excels  the  A.  Johnsonii,  and  a  collec- 
tion of  Amarylli  might  well  begin  with  this. 

Tuberoses  should  be  started  in  a  warm  place  where 
they  will  not  be  exposed  to  draughts  or  chills.  Be- 
fore potting,  take  a  sharp  knife  and  remove  all  the 
old  root  and  hard  substance  about  the  base,  leaving 
but  a  thin  layer  below  the  bulb.  Unless  this  is  done, 
growth  will  be  either  delayed  or  prevented,  as  the 
new  growth  cannot  push  through  this  hard  substance. 
Pot  singly  in  four-inch  pots  and  keep  moist  and  warm 
until  growth  begins,  when  they  may  be  given  a  posi- 
tion in  a  sunny  window,  and  encouraged  to  grow  until 
time  for  planting  out  in  the  open  ground,  after  all 
danger  of  frost  is  past.  If  it  is  not  desired  to  plant 
directly  in  the  open  ground  they  may  be  shifted  into 
six-  or  eight-inch  pots  and  plunged  in  the  ground. 
They  must  be  plunged  to  the  brim,  or  over,  and  will 
require  more  water  than  when  growing  in  the  ground. 
If  they  are  still  blooming  at  the  approach  of  frost 
they  may  be  lifted  and  removed  to  the  house.  Others 
that  have  been  bedded  out  may  be  lifted,  potted,  and 
brought  in,  and  will  bloom  as  freely,  though  not  as 
quickly,  as  those  in  pots.  Disturbing  the  roots  does 
not  seem  to  interfere  at  all  with  the  process  of  bloom. 

The  double  pearl  Tuberose  blooms  but  once,  and  it 
is  hardly  worth  while,  unless  one  has  much  room  and 
time,  to  try  to  bring  the  small  bulbs  forward  to  the 
blooming  stage,  as  they  must  be  cultivated  for  two 
or  three  summers  and  cared  for  for  as  many  winters. 


1 64  The  Flower  Garden 

The  variegated  leaved,  however,  blooms  from  year 
to  year,  and  should  be  taken  up  in  the  fall  and  stored 
in  a  warm,  dry  place.  This  variety  is  single,  but  very 
fragrant  and  pretty.  Tuberoses  do  well  in  the  Glad- 
iolus bed,  and  their  pure  white  spikes  are  very  attract- 
ive among  the  more  brilliant  flowers,  but  they  should 
be  planted  in  clumps  and  not  scattered  among  the 
Gladioli. 


Chapter  FOURTEEN 


THERE  is  special  delight  in  the  cultiva- 
tion of   aquatics,    due  partly  to   the 
novelty  of  the  work,  and  partly  to 
the    feeling  of  rest   associated  with 
this  particular  branch  of  floriculture. 
One  can  rarely  go  into  the  garden  in  the  early  sum- 
mer without  seeing  something  to  do,  a  plant  to  be 
trimmed,  or  a  vine  the  wind  has  blown  down,  and 
always  plants  needing  water.    When  the  lily  pond  is 
reached,  be  it  natural  or  artificial,  one  feels  that  here 
there  is  rest,  for  an  established  lily  pond  seldom  needs 
care.     In  small  tanks  the  water  must  be   renewed 
occasionally,  but  once  a  week  will  be  sufficient. 

Probably  the  simplest  way  of  constructing  a  lily 
pond  where  the  lay  of  the  land  and  soil  are  favour- 
able, is  to  mark  out  a  desired  area,  remove  about  two 
feet  of  soil  and  turn  the  cattle  on  it.  With  stiff  clay 
soil  this  will  in  a  few  months  give  a  bottom  suffi- 
ciently hard  to  hold  water.  Spread  several  inches  of 
muck  and  old  manure  on  this  prepared  ground  and 
the  place  is  ready  for  the  water,  which  may  be  piped 

165 


1 66  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

from  a  well  or  supplied  by  a  wind-mill.  Such  a  pond 
has  this  advantage  over  one  made  of  cement,  that 
semi-aquatic  plants,  such  as  Reeds  and  Bamboos,  Jap- 
anese Iris,  Cardinal  Flowers,  and  the  native  Flame 
Lily  may  find  a  place  on  its  banks  and  add  greatly  to 
the  beauty  of  the  pond. 

When  one  is  so  fortunate  as  to  have  a  little  stream 
flowing  through  a  corner  of  the  grounds  it  can  be 
diverted  to  form  a  pond  with  sufficient  current  to  pre- 
vent stagnation,  yet  not  enough  to  interfere  with  the 
growing  of  water-plants.  By  selecting  a  low  spot 
beside  the  stream  very  little  excavating  will  be  nec- 
essary, and  the  nature  of  the  soil  and  force  of  the 
water  will  decide  what,  if  any,  barrier  may  be  needed. 
Should  the  stream  be  some  distance  from  the  house 
a  shrubbery,  hardy  perennials,  and  an  occasional  tree 
may  lead  up  to  the  pond.  If  this  is  so  fortunately 
placed  as  to  be  on  the  north  side  of  the  grounds,  so 
that  the  sun  lies  on  it  when  seen  from  the  house,  the 
effect  will  be  greatly  heightened  by  a  clump  of  ever- 
greens on  its  northern  shore,  making  a  background 
to  arrest  the  eye  and  focus  it  on  the  lily  pond.  Where 
the  landscape  is  limited,  a  group  of  tall  Bamboos  is 
effective  at  this  point,  and  Japanese  Iris  may  have  a 
place  in  the  foreground;  Sagittarias  and  ornamental 
grasses  may  also  be  used  with  good  results. 

Where  one  lacks  the  advantage  of  natural  condi- 
tions a  cement  pond  is  a  good  substitute.  It  may 
be  expensively  constructed  with  piping  for  water, 


WILD    WATER    FLOWERS    FOR    EDGING    LILY-POND 


Fourteen]  qttatCSi  l67 

drainage,  etc.,  or  it  may  be  made  at  a  cost  of  from 
five  to  thirty  dollars,  according  to  size.  Five  or  six 
by  eight,  or  eight  by  ten  or  twelve  feet,  will  be  found 
convenient  sizes,  as  they  will  admit  of  reaching  the 
centre.  The  basin  should  be  about  two  feet  deep 
when  completed,  and  if  of  clay  the  soil  should  be 
wet  and  made  as  hard  and  smooth  as  possible.  If 
the  soil  is  loose  and  sandy  it  will  need  a  coat  of  clay 
before  applying  the  cement.  This  may  be  done  by 
mixing  the  clay  with  water  to  the  consistency  of 
mortar  and  applying  in  any  convenient  way.  Allow 
this  to  dry  before  using  the  cement.  A  neat  curb- 
ing will  greatly  improve  the  appearance  of  the 
pond. 

When  the  cement  is  perfectly  dry,  place  six  inches 
of  old,  well-rotted  manure  in  the  bottom  of  the  basin, 
and  cover  with  eight  or  ten  inches  of  muck.  Make 
this  smooth  and  level,  and  cover  with  one  or  two 
inches  of  clean  white  sand  to  keep  the  water  clear 
and  sightly  and  prevent  the  muck  from  rising  to  the 
surface.  Fill  with  hose  or  watering-pot,  letting  the 
pond  overflow  until  the  water  is  clear  and  the  sand 
firm  and  smooth,  when  it  is  ready  for  plants. 

When  a  permanent  bed  of  this  kind  is  out  of  the 
question,  a  large  zinc  tub,  or  half  a  hogshead,  will 
make  a  small  water-garden.  These  would  better  be 
raised  somewhat  above  the  surface  of  the  ground  to 
protect  them  from  decay.  Three  small  five-inch 
drain-tiles  laid  sidewise  make  a  good  foundation, 


1 68  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

and  a  very  pretty  effect  may  be  obtained  by  piling 
rough  stones  around  the  tank.  Fill  in  with  earth  and 
cover  with  vines  and  plants  suitable  for  a  rockery. 
If  a  tall  Bamboo,  or  even  a  fine  clump  of  Papyrus  or 
Umbrella-plant  can  be  grown  on  the  north  side,  so  as 
to  overtop  the  tank  without  shutting  off  the  sunshine, 
it  will  add  much  to  the  general  effect.  The  Lily  pond 
should  have  full  sunshine,  but  be  protected  from 
rough  winds,  as  the  leaves  of  large  Lilies  that  stand 
well  above  the  water  are  easily  injured.  The  Egyp- 
tian Lotus  is  the  finest  of  all  Lilies  suitable  for  grow- 
ing in  small  ponds  or  tanks.  These  plants  should  be 
purchased  from  growers,  as  they  do  not  seed  in  this 
country  and  the  imported  seed  is  uncertain.  One 
plant  is  sufficient  for  a  tub  or  tank,  as  they  increase 
very  rapidly  and  do  better  when  not  crowded. 

One  of  these  Lilies  may  be  placed  in  the  centre  of 
a  small  pond  of  ten  feet  or  more,  and  other  Lilies 
grouped  around  the  sides.  Hardy  Nymphaeas  may 
be  planted  in  the  soil  of  the  pond,  while  the  more 
tender  Zanzibarenses  should  be  planted  in  twelve- 
inch  pots  and  plunged  in  the  tank,  as  these  are  not 
hardy  like  the  Nelumbiums,  to  which  class  the  Lotus 
belongs.  Both  the  Egyptian  and  the  American  Lotus 
are  quite  hardy  in  the  open  ground  with  a  protection 
of  rough  litter  and  boards.  An  interesting  peculiarity 
of  the  Lotus,  by  which  it  may  be  distinguished  from 
other  Lilies  when  quite  small  or  out  of  bloom,  is  that 
water  splashed  on  the  leaves  always  rolls  up  into  little 


Fourteen]  qttatCS  '69 

drops  like  quicksilver  instead  of  spreading  over  the 
leaves,  as  on  Nymphaeas  and  the  like. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  Nymphaeas  suitable 
for  amateur  cultivation — the  Cape  Cod  Water  Lily, 
with  its  large,  cup-shaped  flowers  of  a  lovely  pink;  T. 
Richardson,  probably  the  finest  white  variety;  our 
native  Nymphaeas,  and  the  lovely  Zanzibar  Lilies  in 
blue  and  crimson.  These  last  are  very  easily  raised 
from  seed,  which,  if  planted  early  in  February,  will 
give  bloom  by  July,  and  may  be  wintered  in  a  warm, 
dry  cellar.  In  a  cold,  damp  cellar  they  rot.  If  grown 
in  tubs  drain  off  the  water  at  the  approach  of  cold 
weather,  remove  to  the  cellar  and  keep  merely  moist. 
If  grown  in  ponds  it  is  better  to  plant  them  in  pots, 
which  may  be  lifted  and  brought  into  the  cellar  for 
the  winter.  Into  a  large  bowl  or  crock  put  a  few 
inches  of  rich  soil,  cover  with  clean  white  sand  and 
turn  on  tepid  water  until  it  runs  clear.  Sow  the  lily 
seed  on  the  surface  of  the  water;  it  will  go  to  the 
bottom  when  entirely  wet  and  be  more  evenly  distrib- 
uted than  would  be  the  case  were  it  sown  on  the  soil 
and  the  water  turned  over  it. 

Through  the  clear  water  the  whole  process  of 
germination  may  be  watched.  In  six  days  a  thread- 
like sprout  will  have  started  from  the  swollen  seed; 
in  six  days  more  this  thread-like  shoot  changes  into 
a  tiny  dart-shaped  leaf;  in  another  six  a  true  leaf 
comes  upon  the  scene,  a  very  small  lily-pad,  but  giv- 
ing promise  of  great  performance. 


1 70  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

When  the  dish  becomes  crowded  transplant  into 
other  dishes,  keeping  plants  out  of  water  as  short  a 
time  as  possible.  When  the  nights  are  warm — at 
least  60° — plant  out  in  tubs  or  ponds.  For  the  first 
year  an  eight  by  ten  foot  pond  may  have  a  Nelum- 
bium  in  the  centre,  two  or  three  Zanzibar  varieties 
on  either  side,  and  pink  and  white  Nymphasas  at  the 
end.  If  the  plants  have  done  well  reduce  the  number 
the  second  year. 

Water  Hyacinths  are  found  interesting  principally 
because  they  are  more  or  less  of  a  novelty  even  at 
the  South,  having  been  introduced  from  Venezuela 
about  fourteen  years  ago.  This  plant  has  already 
proved  itself  a  nuisance  in  the  Florida  rivers,  seriously 
interfering  with  navigation  and  calling  for  appropria- 
tions from  the  Government  for  its  destruction.  In 
house  or  garden  cultivation  the  roots  increase  rapidly. 
A  small  plant  set  in  a  tub  in  full  sunshine  in  May 
will  fill  it  by  August.  The  leaves  form  rosettes  and 
expand  at  the  stem  into  a  sort  of  bladder  that  sup- 
ports the  plant  on  the  surface  of  the  water.  The 
roots  trail  in  the  water  until  the  plant  is  ready  to 
bloom,  when  they  enter  the  soil.  The  flowers  are  a 
pleasing  shade  of  lavender  with  a  yellow  centre  and 
form  in  spikes  like  a  Hyacinth.  Paris  green  must  not 
be  used  in  the  water  where  the  Hyacinths  are  grown, 
but  lumps  of  charcoal  and  a  small  quantity  of  kero- 
sene may  be  substituted. 

A  few  Water  Poppies  holding  their  bright  yellow 


A    FULL    BLOWN    CAT-TAIL 


NATIVE    PLANTS    EDGING    A    NATURAL    WATER    GARDEN 


Fourteen]  &pattCS  '7* 

cups  well  above  the  surface  of  the  water  are  always 
attractive,  and  Parrot's  Feather  trailing  over  the  sides 
of  the  tub  gives  a  bit  of  tender  green  through  the 
summer,  but  the  rockwork,  with  ferns  and  plants  and 
a  tall  reed  or  two,  makes  a  much  tidier  appearance. 
The  Papyrus — the  plant  from  which  our  first  paper 
was  made — is  very  effective  and  will  grow  wherever 
a  Canna  thrives,  though  it  prefers  a  low,  damp  soil. 
It  must  be  wintered  in  greenhouse  or  cellar.  A  well- 
developed  clump  will  grow  to  a  height  of  ten  feet. 
Several  varieties  of  Bamboo,  to  be  had  from  South 
Florida  nurseries,  will  do  well  in  the  North  in  sum- 
mer and  stand  a  considerable  degree  of  cold.  Bam- 
busa  arundinacea  is  a  magnificent  quick-growing  sort 
from  forty  to  sixty  feet  tall  at  maturity,  and  will 
stand  considerable  frost.  B.  aurea  and  B.  Metake 
are  hardy  with  good  protection  at  the  North.  B. 
Metake  is  a  handsome  evergreen  species  of  consider- 
able decorative  value  for  indoor  culture,  growing  six 
feet  tall  with  large,  handsome  foliage,  while  A.  fal- 
cata  is  a  pretty  variety  with  the  tiniest  of  leaves. 
Bamboo  requires  an  abundant  water-supply,  and  is 
therefore  most  suitable  for  the  borders  of  natural 
ponds,  or  low,  damp  spots  on  the  grounds. 

The  objection  raised  to  ponds  is  that  they  breed 
mosquitoes  and  malaria  and  are  likely  to  become 
offensive.  So  will  anything  that  is  neglected,  but 
there  is  not  the  slightest  reason  for  the  lily  pond 
becoming  a  nuisance  in  any  way.  A  small  amount 


172  The  Flower  Garden 

of  Paris  green  in  the  water — a  teaspoonful  to  an 
eight-foot  pond — will  keep  it  perfectly  clear  and 
sweet  and  prevent  the  formation  of  green  scum  and 
moss,  so  offensive  in  stagnant  water,  and  the  breeding 
of  mosquitoes.  Or  a  little  charcoal  and  kerosene  will 
give  the  same  results. 


Chapter  FIFTEEN 

Cije  Care  of  nje  Summer 


HE  old-fashioned  June  Roses,  with  their 
long  season  of  flowerless  bloom,  hard- 
ly repay  the  trouble  of  raising.  The 
hardy  perpetuals  and  hybrid  Teas  may 
now  be  purchased  so  cheaply  that, 
even  though  a  large  proportion  of  them  should  not 
survive  the  winter,  a  small  outlay  will  replace  them. 
The  thorniness  of  the  old  hardy  June  Rose  adds 
greatly  to  the  labour  of  caring  for  them,  and  this 
alone  would  lead  some  to  discard  them. 

If,  however,  one  clings  to  the  old-fashioned  Roses 
from  economy  or  sentiment,  they  should  be  grown  to 
their  fullest  possibilities  by  pruning,  cultivation,  and 
liberal  mulching  with  coarse  manure  in  the  fall,  and 
lawn  clippings  in  the  summer.  Pruning  should  be 
done  late  in  the  winter  or  early  in  the  spring  before 
the  sap  begins  to  run.  Remove  all  weak  and  straggly 
branches,  cutting  back  the  new  growth  to  the  first 
strong  leaf-buds  on  the  shoot.  It  is  well  to  cut  out 
the  centres,  as  the  new  growth  will  quickly  fill  the 
space  and  be  stronger  and  better  in  every  way  for  the 

173 


174  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

removal  of  the  old  wood.  It  will  also  leave  less  wood 
and  briers  to  collect  and  hold  dead  leaves  and  grass 
during  winter,  which  must  be  taken  out,  at  the  ex- 
pense of  bleeding  fingers,  in  the  spring.  Bushes  which 
grow  upright  with  little  wood  at  the  base  are  more 
easily  cared  for.  Only  strong,  new  growths  should 
be  left,  which  will  break  freely  and  give  firm  new 
wood,  producing  fine  flowers.  Breaking  means  the 
starting  of  young  leaf-buds  at  the  axils  of  each  leaf, 
which  sprout  and  form  new  branches.  It  is  the  new 
wood  that  bears  the  flowers,  so  that  its  growth  should 
be  encouraged.  The  fewer  shoots  allowed  to  grow 
the  finer  will  be  the  flowers. 

Cultivate  thoroughly  in  spring  and  fall  and  give 
a  heavy  mulch  of  lawn  clippings  during  summer. 
Mulch  heavily  with  coarse  manure  in  the  fall,  digging 
in  the  best  of  it  in  the  spring.  It  is  not  necessary  to 
give  winter  protection,  though  it  is  best  to  wrap  the 
tops  with  straw  when  exposed  to  cold  winds. 

Hardy  climbers  should  have  all  weak  shoots  re- 
moved, and  branches  that  are  too  long  shortened. 
Thin  out  a  part  of  the  canes  to  give  room  for  air  and 
growth,  and  remove  all  wood  that  has  grown  too  hard 
to  break,  as  it  will  produce  no  new  wood  and  is  only 
an  incumbrance. 

For  the  summer  rose-bed  nothing  equals  the  Hy- 
brid Teas,  which  bloom  from  June  until  frost.  If 
young  plants  are  purchased  in  the  spring  they  may  be 
bedded  out  at  once,  if  sent  by  express  with  the  ball  of 


Fifteen]  Utttmet  3^020^015  175 


earth  about  their  roots  intact.  If  sent  by  mail  it  will 
be  better  to  pot  off  in  three-inch  pots,  and  set  in  a  cool, 
rather  shady  place  for  a  few  days,  bringing  grad- 
ually into  the  sunshine  until  they  have  become  estab- 
lished, when  they  may  be  turned  out  into  the  open 
ground  without  disturbing  their  roots.  If  planted  at 
once  in  the  open  ground,  the  more  delicate  ones  would 
be  likely  to  perish. 

Give  the  rose-bed  a  sunny,  protected  situation, 
using  a  soil  of  good  garden  loam,  clay,  and  old,  well- 
rotted  manure,  made  deep  and  mellow.  If  the  plants 
are  the  small  mail-order  size  set  one  foot  apart  each 
way,  planting  according  to  directions  for  transplant- 
ing, and  make  the  soil  very  firm  and  hard  about  their 
roots.  Cultivate  frequently,  or  mulch  with  lawn 
clippings,  working  them  in  as  they  decay.  Liquid 
manure  must  not  be  given  until  the  plants  are  grow- 
ing vigorously,  when  it  may  be  applied  once  or  twice 
a  week.  More  plants  are  injured  by  the  injudicious 
use  of  fertilisers  than  in  any  other  way. 

If  two-year-old  plants  are  purchased,  set  from 
eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  apart  each  way.  See  that 
each  plant  has  a  zinc  or  wooden  label  securely  fast- 
ened to  it,  or,  what  is  better,  make  a  list  in  their 
regular  order,  or  a  diagram  of  the  bed  in  a  note- 
book. This  permanent  memorandum  will  enable  you 
to  be  sure  of  the  name  of  any  particular  Rose. 

Cut  Roses  with  a  liberal  amount  of  the  stem,  and 
only  enough  pruning  will  be  needed  to  keep  them  in 


ij6  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

good  shape  and  remove  any  weak  growth.  It  is  a 
good  plan  to  cut  them  down  to  a  bud  that  will  be 
likely  to  throw  a  good  shoot.  Hardy  Perpetuals  or 
monthly  Roses  often  fail  to  give  more  than  a  few 
early  spring  flowers  at  the  tips  of  the  branches.  If 
the  plants  are  in  good  condition,  and  the  branches  of 
some  length,  peg  the  ends  down  to  the  ground  with 
a  clothes-pin  or  stick,  as  the  tendency  in  Rose  growth 
is  for  new  wood  to  start  from  the  highest  point. 
Bending  the  end  down  brings  the  highest  point  at 
the  middle  of  the  branch,  which  will  then  break  and 
bloom. 

Roses,  especially  the  old  hardy  kinds,  will  often 
refuse  to  bloom,  though  well  cared  for  and  sufficiently 
pruned.  In  such  cases  root-pruning  may  be  resorted 
to  by  cutting  down  on  two  sides  of  the  plant  with 
the  spade  and  severing  a  part  of  the  roots.  This  will 
often  induce  bloom  when  all  other  methods  fail. 
Plants  occasionally  run  to  roots  as  well  to  tops. 

So  many  and  varied  are  the  insect  enemies  that  a 
hardy  Rose,  with  even  fair  foliage,  is  rare  during  the 
season  of  bloom,  unless  ceaseless  warfare  has  been 
waged  from  the  first  swelling  of  the  buds.  Slugs, 
rose  thrip  or  hopper,  and  rose-bugs  make  the  life  of 
the  rose-grower  a  weariness.  On  this  account  alone  I 
would  recommend  discarding  the  June  Roses  in  favour 
of  the  Teas,  which  are  fairly  free  from  these  pests. 
Their  dark-green,  healthy  foliage  is  a  striking  con- 
trast to  the  worm-eaten,  rusty  foliage  of  the  hardy 


Fifteen]  UttttttejC        O^l  '77 

Rose.  The  only  weakness  they  show  is  an  occasional 
tendency  to  mildew,  and  this  may  be  avoided  by  giv- 
ing an  airy,  sunny  situation,  setting  far  enough  apart 
to  insure  free  circulation  of  air,  and  watering  early 
that  the  foliage  may  dry  before  the  chill  of  night. 
The  remedy  is  flowers  of  sulphur  dusted  over  the 
leaves. 

Rose-slugs  are  small  green  worms  that  feed  on  the 
foliage,  lying  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves,  which 
they  roll  around  them  or  draw  together  with  a  slight 
web.  The  remedy  is  to  spray  the  under  side  of  the 
foliage  with  kerosene  emulsion,  or  with  hot  water 
heated  to  140°,  being  careful  to  reach  every  part,  or 
to  go  over  the  plant  leaf  by  leaf,  pinching  the  leaves 
between  the  fingers  and  crushing  them.  The  rose 
hopper,  or  thrip,  is  a  small,  yellowish-white  insect 
feeding  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves,  sucking  their 
juice  and  causing  them  to  turn  yellow.  The  best 
remedy  is  the  whale-oil  solution  sprayed  on  the  under 
side.  For  rose  bugs,  or  beetles,  spraying  with  Paris 
green  is  quite  effective,  but  it  must  be  used  promptly, 
as  the  amount  of  injury  they  can  do  in  a  short  time 
is  remarkable.  After  using  an  insecticide,  the  plants 
should  be  thoroughly  sprayed  with  clear  water,  and 
if  treated  with  Paris  green  label  them,  that  no  one 
may  be  poisoned  by  eating  the  rose-leaves.  Roses  for 
pillows  should  not  be  gathered  from  plants  that  have 
had  any  kind  of  poison  used  on  them. 

Roses  kept  in  the  house  during  winter  are  some- 


178  The  Flower  Garden 

times  attacked  with  green  lice.  They  may  be  treated 
with  tobacco  in  some  of  its  forms,  or  with  hot  water 
— dipping  the  entire  plant  in  a  pail  of  water  heated 
to  130°.  I  prefer  the  hot-water  treatment,  as  it 
leaves  the  plant  clean  and  invigorated.  Few,  if  any, 
plants  are  injured  by  it,  and  most  are  benefited. 
Where  there  is  any  question  of  the  effect  on  a  partic- 
ular plant  a  single  branch  may  be  dipped  as  an  experi- 
ment. It  is  difficult  to  make  any  choice  of  Roses 
where  all  are  so  beautiful.  American  Beauty  is  prob- 
ably the  most  popular  crimson  Rose  to-day.  The 
Bride  stands  first  among  the  whites.  Kaiserin 
Augusta  Victoria  is  a  most  desirable  hardy  white,  and 
the  new  rose,  Virginia  R.  Coxe — also  offered  under 
the  name  of  Gruss  an  Teplitz — is  one  of  the  most 
desirable  reds;  a  profuse  and  constant  bloomer  with 
loose-petalled,  medium-sized  flowers  of  the  richest 
scarlet,  shading  to  glowing  velvety  crimson.  Among 
the  climbers  Mrs.  Robert  Perry  is  the  finest,  an  im- 
mense, pure,  creamy  white,  quite  hardy,  and  a  free 
and  constant  bloomer,  valuable  for  cut  flowers. 

If  one  has  room  for  a  hundred  varieties  it  is  easy 
to  select  that  number  with  the  certainty  that  there 
need  not  be  a  poor  Rose  among  the  number. 


Q    >* 


Chapter  SIXTEEN 


THERE  is  no  better  investment  for  the 
garden  than  a  bed  of  hardy  Lilies, 
which  should  be  started  in  the  fall  as 
early  as  the  bulbs  may  be  had.    This 
is  often  later  than  is  desirable,  but  the 
matter  is  entirely  beyond  control.    The  best  that  can 
be  done  is  to  get  orders  for  foreign-grown  bulbs  placed 
early  in  the  fall.     It  is  not  necessary  to  wait  for  the 
new  catalogue,  as  the  old  will  give  the  varieties  and 
approximate   cost.      The   main   thing   is   to    get   in 
the  order  early  that  it  may  be  filled  promptly  when 
the  bulbs  arrive.    Orders  received  last  are  filled  last. 
This  means  not  only  considerable  delay,  but  second 
choice  in  bulbs;  the  first-comers  secure  the  best,  the 
last  must  take  the  cullings. 

Having  ordered  your  bulbs,  proceed  at  once  to 
make  your  beds.  Better  results  are  obtained  by  plant- 
ing Lilies  in  beds  with  fibrous-rooted  plants,  hardy 
shrubs,  and  perennials  that  do  not  need  frequent  dis- 
turbing. The  Lily  is  very  impatient  of  moisture,  and 
water  standing  around  the  roots  in  winter  is  absolutely 
fatal,  A  raised  bed  of  Peonies  affords  favourable 

179 


i8o  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

conditions,  provided  there  is  sufficient  room  between 
the  plants  for  the  Lilies  to  increase  from  year  to  year, 
as  once  planted  they  should  not  be  disturbed.  If  the 
Lily-bed  is  to  be  by  itself  an  angle  of  a  building,  or  a 
portion  of  the  grounds  protected  by  trees,  or  adjacent 
shrubbery,  on  the  west  and  north,  should  be  chosen. 
Such  a  site,  if  well  drained,  will  give  good  results. 
The  bed  should  be  dug  deep  and  mellow,  and  enriched 
with  old,  well-rotted  manure.  Strict  attention  must 
be  paid  to  this  point — only  old,  well-decomposed 
manure  must  be  used.  The  bed  should  be  sufficiently 
rounded  to  shed  water.  Lilium  candidum  will  be 
ready  to  ship  in  August,  and  should  be  planted  as  soon 
as  received.  All  Lilies  are  greatly  injured  by  expos- 
ure to  air,  and  if  it  is  necessary  to  keep  them  out  of 
the  ground  for  any  length  of  time  they  should  be  well 
wrapped  in  tissue-paper,  or  otherwise  protected.  The 
Japanese  protect  their  great  auratum  Lily  bulbs  from 
the  air  by  encasing  them  in  a  ball  of  clay  before  start- 
ing them  on  their  long  journey  to  the  far  West.  Can- 
didum Lilies  make  a  fall  growth  of  leaves,  and  must 
be  planted  early;  no  other  Lily  is  as  hardy  and  satis- 
factory with  us  as  this.  They  should  be  planted  four 
inches  deep  and  a  foot  apart  each  way,  that  they  may 
have  room  to  increase,  and  left  undisturbed  for  years. 
The  soil  may  be  made  very  rich  with  manure,  but 
none  of  it  should  touch  the  Lily  bulbs.  Make  a  hole 
of  sufficient  depth  and  size,  put  an  inch  or  more  of 
sand  on  the  bottom,  place  the  bulbs  on  this  and  fill 


Sixteen] 


up  with  the  sand,  packing  it  closely  all  around  the 
bulb. 

Of  the  Japanese  Lilies,  rubrum  is  most  easily 
grown  here  and  should  be  planted  eight  to  ten  inches 
deep.  Planted  deep  they  are  not  injured  by  thawing 
and  freezing,  but  when  too  near  the  surface  the  frost 
often  throws  the  bulbs  out  of  the  ground.  Lilies  are 
not  injured  so  much  by  freezing  as  by  sudden  and 
frequent  thawings. 

As  long  as  the  rubrum  is  doing  well  it  should  not 
be  disturbed,  but  if  it  suddenly  fails  to  grow  and 
bloom  the  bulbs  should  be  taken  up  when  dormant, 
and  cleansed.  Remove  all  decayed  scales  and  look 
for  worm-nests,  which  are  usually  the  source  of  the 
trouble.  Ants  sometimes  make  nests  in  the  Lily  bulb 
in  the  spring,  and  cause  the  top  to  decay.  When  this 
occurs  it  should  be  lifted,  cleaned,  and  reset  in  a  place 
free  from  ants.  The  greatest  care  must  be  exercised 
in  cleaning  bulbs  not  to  injure  the  sound  scales,  as 
that  will  only  induce  further  decay. 

All  the  speciosum  Lilies  are  exceedingly  beautiful. 
L.  Album  is  one  of  the  finest;  its  reflexed  flowers  are 
a  clear,  sparkling  white  with  a  green  band  through 
the  centre  of  each  petal,  and  a  peculiar  glistening  ap- 
pearance, as  though  covered  with  water.  It  is  one 
of  the  most  easily  grown  of  the  speciosum  family. 
S.  Roseum  is  another  handsome  variety,  white  flushed 
with  rose,  and  with  dull  crimson  spots  on  the  white 
ground;  while  S.  rubrum  has  large  reflexed  petals  of 


The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 


frosted  white,  heavily  bearded  and  spotted  with  rich 
crimson,  with  many  glistening  points  of  white.  Aside 
from  the  speciosum  Lilies  there  are  many  other  fine 
Japanese  Lilies,  the  auratums  easily  leading  in  size 
and  beauty.  While  Krameri  is  a  tube-shaped  Lily  of 
a  soft  pink;  longiflorum  has  lovely  trumpets  of  pure 
white;  the  wonderful  Lilium  giganteum,  six  to  ten 
feet  high,  sends  up  immense  clusters  of  twelve  to 
twenty  creamy  white  flowers,  with  purple  throat. 
Washingtonianum  is  another  tall  variety  bearing 
large  clusters  of  delicate  white  flowers  spotted  with 
black,  and  the  grand  and  rare  Brownii  shows  a  choco- 
late-purple outside  with  a  creamy  interior.  The  list 
is  long,  but  with  a  generous  planting  of  well-selected 
varieties  a  succession  of  bloom  may  be  had  from  the 
first  blooming  longiflorums  and  candidums  in  June 
until  auratum  and  the  late  speciosums  cast  their  ivory 
petals  in  September. 

The  general  treatment  of  all  is  the  same:  deep 
planting,  keeping  the  manure  from  actual  contact  with 
the  bulbs  by  packing  in  sand;  well-drained  soil  and 
the  presence  of  fibrous-rooted  or  perennial  plants  near 
enough  to  absorb  the  surplus  water  from  the  soil. 
During  the  hot  weather,  give  a  heavy  mulch  of  lawn 
clippings  brought  well  up  around  the  stems,  and  wa- 
ter as  needed.  If  planted  deep  they  will  hardly  re- 
quire staking,  as  the  stalks  send  out  surface  roots 
which  not  only  afford  nourishment,  but  also  act  as  a 
brace  to  the  plant  and  hold  it  firmly  in  its  placea 


Sixteen]  jt         W  tl  183 

A  heavy  mulch  of  old  manure  and  rough  litter 
should  be  given  in  the  winter,  and  the  bed  protected 
with  leaves  and  evergreen  boughs,  or  anything  that 
will  shed  water. 

Spring-planted  bulbs  rarely  do  well.  It  is  better 
to  plant  after  severe  cold  weather  sets  in  than  to  wait 
until  spring.  As  long  as  the  ground  can  be  worked 
they  may  be  planted  safely,  but  they  should  be  set 
eight  or  ten  inches  deep.  I  have  planted  them  late  in 
December — when  the  ground  had  to  be  broken  with 
an  axe — and  have  had  excellent  success. 

The  planting  of  hardy  Lilies  should  be  done  on  a 
scale  limited  only  by  one's  means  and  the  ground  at 
command.  A  few  new  and  rare  sorts  should  be  added 
every  year.  In  this  way  a  magnificent  collection  will, 
in  time,  be  acquired,  as  they  increase  very  rapidly 
under  favourable  conditions,  and  the  larger  the  clumps 
of  one  kind  the  finer  the  effect,  so  that  each  variety 
should  be  given  abundant  room  to  spread  and  develop. 

It  is  often  stated  that  Lilies  left  to  themselves  place 
their  bulbs  near  the  surface.  Such  bulbs  are  the  small 
ones  that  form  on  the  blossom  stalk  above  the  main 
bulb,  and  lie  near  the  surface  from  force  of  circum- 
stances. The  main  bulb  sends  its  offshoots  deep  in 
the  ground,  as  in  the  case  of  our  native  Lilies,  which 
are  almost  impossible  to  dig.  Especially  is  this  the 
case  with  the  native  Flame  Lily,  the  bulb  of  which  I 
have  never  been  able  to  reach  with  a  trowel.  Travel- 
lers in  Japan  report  various  native  Lilies  growing  in 


1 84  *The  Flower  Garden 

forests  among  the  interlacing  roots  of  the  trees,  quite 
out  of  the  reach  of  any  small  tools.  There  the 
auratum  Lily  grows  on  wooded  hillsides  where  the 
drainage  is  perfect,  and  the  falling  leaves  give  a  deep 
mulch  at  all  times,  and  supply  the  best  of  nourish- 
ment, leaf-mould,  and  the  roots  of  the  trees  absorb  all 
superfluous  moisture. 


Chapter  SEVENTEEN 

Care  of  Cantias,  Calatdutn& 
Ba!)lta&  anti 
jBurtng 

Fall  Bulbs,  Tulips,  Hyacinths,  Crocus, 
Scillas,  and  the  Like 

THE  first  hard  frost  in  September — about 
the  zoth  inst.  at  the  North — is  usu- 
ally followed  by  a  few  weeks  of  mel- 
low fall  weather.    If  one  has  been  so 
fortunate  as  to  have  saved  Cannas, 
Caladiums,  and  other  tender  bulbous  plants  by  night 
protection  or  by  turning  the  hose  on  very  early  in 
the  morning  before  the  sun  reaches  them,  they  will 
grow  and  ripen  well  in  these  last  warm  days.    These 
sudden  falls  of  temperature  usually  find  the  gardener 
unprepared,  and  unless  water  is  at  hand  plants  will  be 
cut  down  by  frost.    When  this  happens  remove,  with 
a  sharp  knife,  the  frozen  portions,  and  consign  to  the 
compost  heap.     If  allowed  to  remain,  these  not  only 
give  the  yard  a  most  untidy  appearance,  but  the  decay 

iSj 


1 86  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

is  likely  to  extend  to  the  bulbs.  The  plants  may  then 
be  left  to  ripen  in  the  ground  for  several  days,  accord- 
ing to  the  weather,  or  the  necessity  of  preparing  the 
ground  for  other  plants. 

Dig  all  roots  to  be  saved  on  a  warm,  sunny  day, 
and  dry  in  the  sun  for  several  days  if  the  weather  is 
fair  and  warm.  Cover  with  blankets  at  night  or  leave 
them  on  the  floor  of  a  sunny  room  until  the  earth 
about  their  roots  is  dry,  pack  in  boxes  of  dry  earth 
or  sand,  and  store  in  a  dry,  frost-proof  cellar. 

Dahlias  and  the  common  tall  Canna  are  easily  win- 
tered in  a  warm,  dry  cellar.  The  large  Orchid-flow- 
ered Cannas  are  much  more  difficult  to  winter,  and  are 
very  apt  to  dry-rot  under  the  most  favourable  circum- 
stances. I  have  found  laying  on  the  ground  (under 
the  steam-pipes  where  they  are  run  outside  the  cellar) 
and  covering  with  dry  earth  a  very  good  way  of  han- 
dling them.  They  should  be  examined  occasionally, 
and  if  they  seem  too  dry  sprinkle  with  water.  If  the 
Caladium  bulbs  show  any  decay  of  the  centre-shoot  all 
the  decayed  parts  should  be  pulled  off  down  to  sound 
tissue.  Parts  of  Cannas  broken  in  digging  should  be 
removed  with  a  sharp  knife.  Where  there  is  but  a 
small  quantity  of  roots,  shave  off  the  dirt  and  wrap 
the  tuber  in  tissue-paper.  Store  on  a  shelf  in  a  closet, 
or  other  convenient  frost-proof  place.  There  is  no 
more  uncertain  root  to  carry  through  the  winter. 
Florists  often  lose  their  entire  stock  by  decay  or  dry- 
rot,  and  were  it  not  for  this  the  Canna  would  soon 


Seventeen]      l&t  Catt  Of  SSulfcS  187 


become  a  drug  on  the  market,  and  only  novelties  have 
a  sale. 

Dahlias  are  much  more  easily  wintered,  doing  well 
in  any  cellar  that  will  keep  potatoes  in  first-class  con- 
dition. All  roots  wintered  in  cellars  should  be  placed 
on  elevated  shelves  or  tables  away  from  the  low  tem- 
perature of  the  floor  —  on  a  swinging  shelf,  if  the  cel- 
lar is  frequented  by  rats  and  mice. 

Gladioli  will  keep  perfectly  if  stored  in  flour-sacks 
and  hung  from  a  beam  or  post  near  the  ceiling. 
Montbretias  may  be  wintered  in  the  same  way. 

When  the  Cannas,  Caladiums,  and  other  summer 
plants  are  out  of  the  way  the  beds  may  be  prepared 
for  the  fall  planting  of  bulbs  for  early  spring  bloom- 
ing. The  vacant  foliage-beds  on  the  lawn  offer  the 
best  place,  as  the  bulbs  will  have  played  their  part  and 
passed  on  by  the  time  these  are  needed  again  for  the 
summer  occupants. 

If  the  beds  have  been  lowered  owing  to  limited  wa- 
ter-supply haul  on  a  few  wheel-barrow  loads  of  very 
old  manure  and  earth,  and  mix  thoroughly  with  the 
soil,  raising  them  sufficiently  to  shed  water.  If  per- 
manent bulb  beds  are  preferred  (which  may  be  planted 
with  annuals  in  the  summer)  choose  an  exposure 
slanting  toward  the  south,  if  possible,  as  this  will  in- 
sure earlier  flowers.  See  that  the  soil  has  good  natural 
drainage,  or,  if  this  is  lacking,  supply  it  by  excavating 
to  a  depth  of  eighteen  to  thirty  inches,  and  placing 
several  inches  of  broken  stone  or  crockery  in  the  bot- 


i88  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

torn  for  drainage.  Return  the  soil  to  the  bed,  making 
it  mellow  and  fine.  The  earlier  the  bulbs  are  planted 
the  more  roots  will  be  started  before  the  ground 
freezes,  but  late  fall  or  winter  planting,  providing  the 
ground  is  not  frozen,  is  preferable  to  spring  plant- 
ing. Spring-planted  bulbs  rarely  amount  to  anything, 
having  lost  much  of  their  vitality  by  being  so  long 
out  of  the  ground. 

A  bed  facing  the  south  is  warmer  and  earlier  than 
any  other,  hence  it  is  sometimes  liable  to  a  set-back 
— if  not  actual  injury — from  a  sudden  sharp  frost 
after  the  plants  have  started  in  the  spring,  and  the 
litter  should  not  be  wholly  removed  until  it  is  entirely 
safe  to  do  so.  An  ideal  bed  for  early  bulbs  would  be 
one  on  the  south  side  of  the  house,  sloping  slightly 
toward  the  south,  with  a  frame  around  it  somewhat 
higher  at  the  back,  over  which  a  canvas  attached  to 
hooks  could  be  drawn  on  cold  nights  and  days.  The 
frame  should  be  made  so  that  it  could  be  readily 
lifted  on  the  approach  of  warm  weather. 

Hyacinths,  Tulips,  and  Narcissi  look  far  better 
when  planted  each  in  a  bed  by  themselves,  as  they  are 
not  at  all  in  harmony.  Plant  Hyacinths  seven  inches 
apart  and  four  inches  deep,  either  in  beds  of  vivid  col- 
ours without  other  order  than  a  regular  distance  apart, 
or  according  to  some  colour  arrangement  or  geomet- 
rical design.  Tulips  should  be  planted  four  inches 
apart  each  way  and  four  inches  deep.  A  good  ar- 
rangement is  to  draw  lines  across  the  bed  forming 


Seventeen]       Cftf  €&U  Of  Btll&S  i«9 


squares  —  four  inches  for  Tulips,  seven  for  Hyacinths 
—  and  set  a  bulb  at  each  corner.  The  centre  of  the 
square  may  be  filled  with  Crocus  or  Scillas,  which  will 
have  finished  blooming  before  the  larger  flowers  are 
out.  Only  Tulips  of  the  same  height  and  season  of 
bloom  should  be  set  together. 

Scillas  and  Crocus  together  make  a  bed  that  can 
hardly  be  surpassed  in  bulb  planting.  The  effect  is 
best  where  only  the  white  Crocus  is  blended  with  the 
blue  of  the  Scillas. 

Protect  the  bulb  beds  with  rough  manure,  leaves, 
and  evergreen  boughs  during  winter.  Remove  the 
protection  gradually  in  the  spring,  and  leave  the  finest 
of  the  manure  to  enrich  the  soil. 

When  through  blooming  in  the  spring,  and  the 
foliage  has  ripened,  the  bulbs  may  be  lifted,  dried, 
and  stored  away  in  a  cool  place  until  fall.  All  these 
bulbs  increase  rapidly,  both  by  multiplying  and  by 
seed.  Neglected  beds  of  Tulips  seem  to  multiply  and 
perpetuate  themselves  indefinitely,  but  the  new  plants 
will  be  found  to  be  all  from  seed,  as  the  Tulip  forms 
its  new  bulbs  at  the  base  of  the  old,  and  if  they  were 
not  frequently  taken  up  and  reset  they  would  grow 
so  deep  in  the  ground  that  all  the  strength  of  the  plant 
would  be  exhausted  reaching  the  surface,  and  there 
would  be  no  bloom.  The  seedlings  make  robust 
plants,  and  do  not  deteriorate  materially. 

The  seed  formation  of  the  Crocus  is  very  interest- 
ing. If  dug  a  few  weeks  after  its  season  of  bloom 


The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 


is  over,  under  the  ground,  below  the  blossom,  the 
stem  will  be  found  to  have  expanded  into  a  long 
chamber  or  cell  as  large  around  as  a  lead-pencil  and 
an  inch  or  more  in  length.  Open  this  and  it  will  be 
found  full  of  exquisite  pink  pearls;  these  are  the 
seeds.  As  they  ripen  they  become  nearly  black,  the 
cell  bursts,  and  the  earth  receives  them.  The  Scilla 
lengthens  its  flower-stems  until  they  lie  on  the  ground, 
forming  large  seed-pods  filled  with  white  pearls. 
When  the  plants  are  taken  up,  if  these  little  seeds 
are  saved  the  stock  will  increase  much  more  rap- 
idly. 

The  beds  are  often  wanted  for  other  plants  before 
the  foliage  has  had  time  to  ripen.  In  that  case  the 
bulbs  may  be  lifted  and  heeled-in,  in  some  out-of-the- 
way  place,  until  ripe,  care  being  taken  to  preserve 
the  seed-pods.  Heeling-in  means  digging  a  shallow 
trench,  laying  in  the  roots  of  the  plants  in  a  row,  and 
covering  them  with  earth.  They  must  be  lifted  when 
ripe  and  not  allowed  to  grow. 

A  pretty  way  to  grow  the  Scilla,  Crocus,  and  Snow- 
drop is  to  scatter  them  on  the  lawn  in  the  grass,  plant- 
ing singly  or  in  clumps.  Lift  the  sod  with  the 
trowel  and  slip  the  bulbs  under,  right  side  up,  leaving 
them  to  care  for  themselves.  Plant  hundreds  in  this 
way;  they  will  be  through  blooming  by  the  time  the 
grass  needs  cutting. 

The  various  varieties  of  Narcissi  should  be  planted 
in  permanent  beds  or  borders,  where  they  need  not  be 


OFTHE 

/I 

OF  •  Jj 


03 

II 

C/3      y 


s  s 


Seventeen]      l&ty  €%tt  Of 


disturbed  except  as  it  is  necessary  to  divide  them. 
They  should  be  set  four  inches  deep  and  twelve  inches 
apart  each  way,  that  they  may  have  room  to  increase. 
The  new  bulbs  of  Narcissi  form  in  a  cluster  around 
the  old,  and  unless  allowed  to  develop  freely  will  not 
bloom.  If  set  the  proper  distance  apart  they  will  need 
to  be  taken  up  but  once  in  four  years.  Do  not  wait 
for  them  to  show  signs  of  a  crowded  condition,  but 
move  on  schedule  time,  and  keep  them  blooming  con- 
tinuously. All  the  Narcissi,  except  the  Polyanthus, 
are  hardy,  and  all  are  lovely  —  especially  the  large 
trumpet  sorts.  Emperor  and  Empress,  Horsfieldi,  and 
Sir  Watkin  are  especially  good  in  the  open  grounds. 
Poeticus,  P.  ornatus,  Alba  plena,  Odorata,  and  Von 
Sion  all  make  beautiful  borders. 

.  There  are  a  few  other  bulbs  for  fall  planting  that 
are  hardy  all  over  the  country.  The  Chionodoxa, 
Glory  of  the  Snow,  is  a  recent  introduction  from 
Asia  Minor.  Like  the  Scilla  it  is  blue,  a  rare  and 
desirable  colour  in  spring  flowers.  Winter  Aconite, 
with  its  tiny,  golden-yellow  flowers,  the  first  of  the 
spring;  Wood  Hyacinths,  Dog-tooth  Violets,  Fritil- 
larias,  Crown  Imperials,  and  Snowdrops  are  all  worth 
a  place. 

The  bulbs  advertised  by  the  seedsmen  as  hardy  in 
a  temperature  like  that  of  Philadelphia  may  not  prove 
hardy  in  Canada,  Michigan,  Northern  Illinois,  Min- 
nesota, Wisconsin,  Dakota,  and  this  must  be  borne  in 
mind  when  purchasing  same.  The  safest  way,  when  in 


192  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

doubt,  is  to  address  a  letter  of  inquiry  to  the  dealer 
offering  the  plants,  in  regard  to  suitability  for  your 
particular  climate. 

Bulbs  for  winter  blooming.  I  have  come  to  the 
conclusion  that  almost  anything  will  grow  and  blos- 
som if  given  the  proper  care.  For  the  amateur,  whose 
only  field  is  the  sitting-room  window,  it  is  better  to 
undertake  only  those  varieties  with  which  one  may  be 
sure  of  success  under  ordinary  care,  as  the  Hyacinth, 
Narcissus,  Scilla,  Crocus,  Anemone,  Ornithogalum 
arabicum,  and  Freesia.  These  are  absolutely  sure 
bloomers,  and  much  more  reliable  in  the  matter  of 
producing  flowers  than  a  Geranium.  In  selecting 
Hyacinths  the  single  will  generally  give  better  satis- 
faction than  the  double,  and  there  should  always  be  a 
generous  proportion  of  white  among  the  colours  se- 
lected. Alba  superbissima,  Baroness  Van  Thuyl,  and 
La  Grandesse  are  among  the  best  whites;  Norma 
gigantea,  Roi  des  Beiges  for  pinks  and  reds;  Ida  is 
the  best  yellow ;  and  Czar  Peter  and  Grand  Lilas  the 
best  blues. 

Among  the  Narcissi  nothing  finer  than  the  large 
trumpet  varieties  could  be  desired:  Horsfieldi,  with 
its  yellow  trumpet  and  snow-white  perianth ;  Sir  Wat- 
kin,  or  the  Giant  Welshman,  as  it  is  sometimes  called; 
Empress  and  Emperor  and  the  clustered  Paper  White 
are  all  exquisite ;  and  the  old  double  Von  Sion  is  most 
effective  in  the  window-garden. 

Hyacinths  and  Narcissi  require  the  same  treatment : 


Seventeen]       %         €&tt  Of 


193 


Pot  as  early  in  the  fall  as  they  can  be  obtained,  using 
good  compost  and  sufficient  broken  charcoal  to  insure 
good  drainage ;  fill  to  within  an  inch  of  the  top  with 
the  soil,  using  a  four-inch  pot  for  a  single  bulb  or  a 
six-inch  one  for  three  bulbs.  Place  the  bulb  with  the 
tip  slightly  above  the  surface  of  the  soil,  label  plainly 
with  name  and  date  of  planting,  and  set  away  in  a 
dark  box  in  the  cellar  for  six  weeks  or  more,  or  until 
the  pot  is  well  filled  with  roots ;  this  can  be  ascertained 
by  turning  the  ball  of  earth  out  of  the  pot.  If  the 
earth  is  not  well  covered  with  roots  return  to  the  box 
for  a  few  days  longer.  If  there  is  sufficient  root 
growth  place  in  a  warm,  sunny  window  in  a  temper- 
ature of  about  70°.  When  first  potted  they  should 
be  well  watered,  and  thereafter  kept  merely  moist, 
but  on  bringing  to  the  light  and  heat  they  should  have 
water  in  the  saucer  most  of  the  time.  When  the 
flowers  are  fully  expanded  they  may  be  moved  into  a 
cooler,  less  sunny  window,  where  they  will  remain  in 
perfection  much  longer. 

Anemones  give  beautiful  winter  blossoms  and  re- 
quire practically  the  same  treatment  as  Hyacinths. 
The  bulbs  are  placed  an  inch  and  a  half  below  the 
surface.  They  are  queer,  shrivelled-up  little  things, 
with  roots  which  fill  up  surprisingly  after  being  in 
the  damp  soil.  When  up  and  growing  they  require 
abundant  water  ancl  sunshine.  Keep  the  saucer  full 
of  water  all  the  time;  failure  in  this  respect  means 
blasted  buds.  As  Anemones  give  a  succession  of 


194  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

flowers  they  must  be  left  in  the  window  until  through 
blooming.  Tulips,  Crocus,  and  Scillas  should  be 
potted  and  placed  out  of  doors  where  they  will  not 
be  disturbed,  covered  with  earth  and  left  until  freez- 
ing weather,  when  they  should  be  stored  in  the  cellar 
like  other  bulbs.  It  is  well  in  placing  bulbs  out  of 
doors  to  set  the  pots  in  beds  of  coal-ashes  to  prevent 
the  entrance  of  worms  into  the  soil.  They  may  be 
covered  with  ashes  instead  of  earth,  the  object  being 
to  give  them  the  benefit  of  the  frost. 

A  half  dozen  Scillas  planted  in  the  centre  of  one 
of  the  large  round  gourds  and  surrounded  with  a  bor- 
der of  white  Crocus  makes  a  very  pretty  show,  and 
will  come  into  bloom  in  about  three  months  from  the 
time  of  planting.  The  Ornithogalum  is  an  effective 
flower,  and  quite  sure  to  bloom,  but  requires  a  rather 
high  temperature,  as  it  is  of  slow  development. 

Freesia  bulbs  deteriorate  very  rapidly  once  they 
are  out  of  the  ground,  and  should  be  ordered  early 
and  potted  as  soon  as  received.  Plant  a  dozen  in  a 
five-  or  six-inch  pot,  and  set  at  once  in  a  warm  east 
window,  as  these  do  not  need  to  go  to  the  cellar. 
The  leaves  and  stalks  are  very  tender,  and  will  re- 
quire support,  and  this  is  the  greatest  objection  to  the 
Freesia.  Ashes  in  the  soil  will  counteract  this  ten- 
dency somewhat,  and  the  wire  carnation  supports  are 
very  neat  and  satisfactory. 

Alliums,  which  have  the  same  defects,  require  the 
same  treatment. 


Seventeen]       C)e  €&Vt  Of  ItllfoS  '95 


The  varieties  of  Oxalis  are  usually  started  in  a 
sunny  window,  as  they  require  a  strong  light.  Like 
the  summer  bloomers,  they  increase  rapidly  and  need 
considerable  root  room.  The  Bermuda  Oxalis  is 
lovely  in  a  gourd  hanging-basket;  indeed,  a  hanging- 
basket,  or  bracket,  is  the  only  suitable  arrangement 
for  it,  as  it  loves  to  droop  and  spread  itself,  and  re- 
quires abundant  room  for  its  wealth  of  golden  flowers. 
When  through  blooming  it  should  be  allowed  to  ripen 
its  foliage.  It  may  then  be  set  in  the  cellar,  or  a  cool 
place,  until  September,  when  the  bulbs  should  be 
shaken  out  of  the  pot  and  repotted;  one  bulb  to  a 
four-inch  pot. 

Bulbs  of  hardy  plants  may  be  ripened  off,  and  in 
the  spring  planted  out  in  the  open  ground,  where  they 
will  bloom  the  following  spring,  but  are  valueless  for 
forcing  in  the  house. 


Chapter  EIGHTEEN 

anti  Pants  for 
Panting 


IN  some  localities,  especially  in  the  South,  the 
practice  of  setting  out  hardy  plants  in  the 
fall   has  much   to  commend   it.     The  mild 
winters,  during  which  growth  is  never  en- 
tirely checked,  allow  the  plants  to  fully  es- 
tablish   themselves  ;    but    in   the    Northern  States, 
where  the  severe  winters  set  in  early  and  last  long, 
the  plants  do  not  become  sufficiently  established  to 
stand  the  severe  cold  followed  by  the  hot  summer. 
They  sometimes  live  through  the  one  only  to  suc- 
cumb to  the  other. 

Plants  moved  from  one  part  of  the  grounds  to 
another  will  frequently  winter-kill,  while  those  left 
undisturbed  will  be  found  in  excellent  condition  in 
the  spring.  Again,  a  plant  may  come  through  the 
winter  in  apparently  good  condition,  but  without  suf- 
ficient vitality  to  withstand  any  severe  heat  or  drought, 
and  failure  to  recognise  this  condition  results  in  loss. 
Plants  transplanted  in  the  fall,  however  hardy  their 
character,  should  receive  particular  care  during  the 

196 


plants    197 


following  summer  in  the  matter  of  water,  cultivation, 
and  mulching.  Plants  transplanted  at  any  time  of 
year  will  do  better  if  the  top  growth  is  reduced  by 
trimming  or  cutting  back,  and  all  broken  or  injured 
roots  removed  with  a  sharp  knife. 

Spring-planted  shrubs  rarely  fail  to  do  well  if  the 
precaution  is  observed  of  moving  them  while  dor- 
mant. The  only  exception  I  need  to  mention  being 
the  various  Irises  when  purchased  from  florists. 
These,  being  dug  in  the  fall,  and  kept  in  cold  storage 
during  winter,  have  their  vitality  much  depleted  by 
spring,  and  are  then  of  doubtful  value.  This  is  es- 
pecially true  of  the  Japanese  Iris;  the  German  and 
English,  being  much  more  hardy,  are  not  so  easily 
injured.  Home-grown  Iris  would  better  be  moved 
in  the  spring. 

Among  the  desirable  shrubs  for  fall  or  spring  plant- 
ing are  the  various  Spiraeas;  these  are  both  shrubby 
and  herbaceous.  Of  the  shrubby  variety  Anthony 
Waterer  is  the  only  really  good  crimson,  or  red,  va- 
riety, and  is  very  fine.  The  catalogues  give  it  a  dwarf 
character  rarely  exceeding  eighteen  inches,  but  my 
own  experience  with  the  plant  is,  that  with  rich  soil 
it  much  exceeds  that  height.  Van  Houttei  is  the  finest 
white  sort,  and  is  especially  valuable  grown  singly  on 
the  lawn,  where  it  may  develop  its  beautiful  form  to 
perfection.  Of  the  herbaceous  Spiraeas  the  filipen- 
dula  is  very  desirable  for  the  border  or  for  edging 
shrubbery.  The  fern-like  foliage,  which  is  of  itself 


198  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

handsome  enough  to  gain  recognition,  is  surmounted 
in  June  with  spikes  of  double  daisy-like  flowers  of 
creamy  white.  It  is  very  fine  for  cut  flowers,  and  for 
forcing  in  winter.  The  clumps  increase  rapidly,  and 
should  be  divided  and  reset  every  three  or  four  years. 
Then  there  is  the  old-fashioned  garden  Spiraea,  with 
its  pinky-white,  feathery  blossoms,  very  fragrant — 
especially  when  wet  with  the  dew. 

Hypericum  Moserianum  is  a  delightful  little  per- 
ennial, growing  from  one  to  two  feet  tall;  the 
flowers  are  exquisite  in  form  and  colour — a  clear, 
golden  yellow  lasting  well  when  cut.  Other  hardy 
yellow  flowers  are  the  California  Sunflower  and 
Rudbeckia,  or  Golden  Glow,  both  too  well  known  and 
popular  to  need  eulogy. 

The  Lychnis  (Rose  Campion)  is  another  of  our 
herbaceous  perennials  which  has  not  attracted  the 
notice  its  good  qualities  deserve.  L.  Chalcedonica, 
its  trusses  of  scarlet  rivalling  the  most  vivid  Geranium, 
is  the  best  known  of  the  species,  and  combines  beauti- 
fully with  Clematis  flammula  and  Spiraea  filipendula. 
Planted  against  a  wall  covered  with  the  Clematis,  or 
contrasted  in  the  border  with  S.  Japonica,  it  is  very 
effective.  Plant  L.  semperflorens  plenissima  with 
Deutzia  gracilis  and  Spiraea  filipendula.  Planted 
together  in  the  border  they  are  exquisite.  L.  semper- 
florens is  much  more  delicate  than  the  other  Lychnis, 
and  cannot  be  considered  entirely  hardy  at  the  North. 
It  is  a  very  dainty  little  flower  with  soft  pink,  finely 


Eighteen]    f^Ett^  gtytUfeSi  Si  $latttfif    '99 


toothed  blossoms,  and  worth  considerable  trouble  to 
grow.  Viscaria  (Ragged  Robin)  has  tall  spikes  of 
double  red,  deliciously  scented  flowers,  and  should 
find  a  place  in  every  garden.  Chalcedonica  resem- 
bles the  scarlet  variety  except  in  colour,  which  is  pure 
white.  It  also  is  quite  hardy  and  needs  little  care 
when  once  established. 

Plant  Iris  (Fleur-de-lis)  generously.  They  will 
grow  in  size  and  beauty  from  year  to  year,  and  are 
valuable  for  borders  along  drives  or  walks,  for  the 
filling  of  corners  or  low,  damp  spots.  By  planting 
the  different  varieties  a  succession  of  bloom,  from 
May  until  the  latter  part  of  July,  may  be  secured. 
The  German  Iris  furnishes  some  magnificent  colour 
effects  in  purple  and  bronze,  yellow  and  lavender, 
blue  and  white.  The  Japanese  are  wonderful,  both 
in  colour  and  size  —  flowers  seven  inches  in  diameter 
being  quite  common,  while  twelve  inches  is  attained  in 
some  instances.  The  flowers  differ  so  materially  in 
form  from  other  Iris  as  to  appear  a  distinct  class. 
Unlike  the  German  Iris,  they  hold  their  petals  neither 
erect  nor  drooping,  but  horizontally,  or  flat,  making 
a  great  disc  of  lovely  colour,  ranging  through  all  the 
shades  of  blue,  lilac,  blue  and  white,  and  plum,  to 
crimson-purple,  magenta,  and  pink.  They  are  more 
tender  and  less  quickly  started  than  the  German,  but 
do  well  when  established.  A  low,  damp  spot  suits 
them  best,  and  where  this  is  not  available  they  should 
be  abundantly  supplied  with  water.  German  Iris  will 


200  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

do  well  in  any  good  garden  soil  and  under  ordinary 
cultivation.  Iris  should  be  taken  up  and  divided 
every  three  or  four  years,  removing  all  dead  or  ex- 
hausted growth,  and  setting  one  live  toe,  or  point,  in 
a  place.  They  will  not  do  well  the  first  year  of  divid- 
ing, but  the  following  year  will  be  very  fine,  especially 
if  there  have  been  enough  roots  to  make  several  long, 
parallel  rows. 

While  not  troubled  with  any  disease  or  insect  pest, 
the  moles  seem  to  have  an  especial  liking  for  the  roots 
of  the  Japanese  Iris,  and  have  caused  me  much  loss. 
The  only  preventive  is  to  shut  the  moles  out  of  the 
bed  by  sinking  a  close  wire  netting  around  it  to  a  depth 
of  eighteen  inches,  or  by  making  early  and  persistent 
use  of  good  mole-traps — one  at  each  end  of  the  row, 
or  at  the  spots  where  they  enter  and  leave  the  bed. 
By  this  method  I  caught  ten  moles  in  as  many  days  in 
the  Iris  beds,  and  was  comparatively  free  from  them 
the  remainder  of  the  season.  Salt  pork  or  bacon 
rinds  buried  in  their  runs  will  sometimes  drive  them 
away  for  a  time,  but  this  is  not  to  be  depended  on, 
neither  is  the  presence  of  Castor-oil  plant,  which,  so 
far  as  I  have  observed,  has  not  the  slightest  value. 
The  only  method  is  to  trap  them  early  in  the  spring, 
before  they  begin  to  breed;  setting  the  trap  in  the 
runs  from  the  nest  and  not  in  the  shallow  feeding  runs 
they  make  close  to  the  surface.  These  they  may  not 
visit  again  in  days,  if  at  all,  but  the  main  runs,  which 
usually  extend  in  several  directions  from  their  bur- 


Eighteen]    ^atU^  ^1)IWQ  Ct  ^laUlS    201 

rows,  and  are  several  inches  below  the  surface,  are 
traversed  several  times  a  day. 

Peonies — what  would  the  spring  garden  be  with- 
out these  old-time  favourites?  Whatever  flowers  are 
lacking  in  country  gardens,  it  is  rarely  these ;  and  yet, 
we  seldom  see  them  at  their  best.  They  like  rich, 
well-drained  soil  in  a  sunny  location,  and  once  estab- 
lished should  remain  undisturbed  for  years,  or  until 
they  become  so  crowded  as  to  need  dividing,  as  they 
require  several  years  to  recover  after  being  moved, 
and  only  actual  necessity  should  lead  to  their  dis- 
turbance, certainly  not  the  requests  of  friends  and 
neighbours  to  dig  them  up  and  divide.  Better  buy  a 
root  to  give  away,  if  reluctant  to  refuse,  than  injure 
the  plant. 

Mulch  the  Peony  bed  heavily  with  rough  manure 
in  the  fall,  removing  the  coarsest  in  the  spring  and 
working  the  rest  into  the  soil.  A  good  mulch  of  lawn 
clippings  during  July  and  August  will  keep  the  soil 
cool  and  moist,  and  greatly  benefit  the  plants.  This 
should  be  given  before  they  bloom,  as  there  is  usually 
heavy  rain  about  that  time,  which  beats  the  flowers 
down  into  the  dirt  and  ruins  them. 

The  Funkia  (Plantain  Lily),  or  Day  Lily,  as  it  is 
commonly  called,  is  another  plant  impatient  of  dis- 
turbance ;  and  once  planted  it  should  not  be  molested. 
It  likes  a  good,  rich,  mellow  soil,  but  is  not  particular 
as  to  location,  so  that  no  other  plant  is  near  it. 
Though  perfectly  hardy  I  prefer  to  give  it  a  little 


202  The  Flower  Garden 

protection  in  the  winter.  In  the  spring  cut  away  the 
sod  from  around  it  the  width  of  the  spade,  making 
the  soil  fine  and  mellow,  and  working  in  some  old 
manure.  This  annual  enlarging  of  its  boundaries  is 
all  the  care  it  needs  to  make  it  grow  larger  and  finer, 
year  by  year,  and  bloom  profusely. 

The  French  Lilacs  are  to  be  recommended  for  lib- 
eral planting,  as  they  are  free  from  the  vice  of  suck- 
ering  which  makes  the  old-fashioned  sort  so  trouble- 
some. They  should  be  planted  wherever  they  will  be 
useful  as  backgrounds  for  lower  shrubs,  or  perennials, 
or  in  a  row  along  a  lane  or  fence.  As  the  blooming 
season  of  the  different  varieties  varies,  by  judicious 
selection  they  may  be  had  in  bloom  for  several  weeks. 

Althaeas  (Rose  of  Sharon)  have  the  happy  notion 
of  blooming  when  other  plants  do  not,  so  they  are 
doubly  welcome.  As  they  bloom  from  the  bottom 
up  they  should  have  a  place  by  themselves  on  the 
grounds,  where  they  will  make  quite  tall  trees  in  a 
few  years.  The  white  and  light-coloured  ones  are 
the  most  attractive.  Young  trees  should  be  wrapped 
in  straw  during  winter,  and  old  ones  well  mulched 
with  rough  litter. 


Chapter  NINETEEN 

Muter  protection 

WHEN  the  frost  has  cut  down  the 
flowers,  and  robbed  the  shrubs 
of  their  leaves  it  is  time  for  the 
fall    cleaning    of    the    garden. 
This  should  be  completed  before 
the  leaves  begin  to  fall,  as  if  left  until  then  they  will 
greatly  complicate  matters. 

Pull  up  and  consign  to  the  compost  heap  all  an- 
nuals, weeds,  stalks  of  perennials,  Lilies,  and  orna- 
mental plants,  and  the  litter  used  for  mulch  during 
summer.  This  last  might  be  left  on  were  it  not  for 
the  fact  that  it  is  likely  to  harbour  insects  which  would 
do  mischief.  It  is  therefore  better  to  remove  it  and 
work  the  bed  over,  leaving  all  clean  and  neat. 

This  is  the  time  to  look  out  for  cutworms, 
chrysalids,  and  the  like,  and  destroy  them.  Much 
may  be  done  in  this  direction.  Look  carefully  along 
the  edging  between  the  curbing  and  the  grass  where 
the  cutworm  lurks.  Look  for  the  chrysalids  of  borers 
in  the  ground  around  the  Clematis,  Cosmos,  Holly- 

203 


204  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

hocks,  and  Dahlia  beds,  and  when  found  destroy 
them.  On  the  under  side  of  boards,  steps,  and  under 
the  edge  of  the  siding  of  the  house  will  be  found  the 
cocoons  of  the  hickory  tussock-moth  and  the  cabbage- 
worm,  all  of  which  should  be  destroyed.  After  re- 
moving the  dead  annuals  rake  over  the  beds,  leaving 
them  clean  and  neat. 

Beds  of  perennials,  Roses,  bulbs,  and  especially  of 
Lilies  and  Peonies,  must  be  well  rounded  up  to  shed 
water,  as  all  plants  are  injured  by  water  standing 
about  their  roots.  If  not  already  high  enough  to 
admit  of  this,  more  earth  must  be  added  to  raise  them 
sufficiently.  The  earth  from  the  window-boxes  may 
be  used  to  advantage,  especially  for  the  Tea-rose  bed, 
where  a  foot  of  mellow  earth,  brought  well  up  around 
the  plants  and  rounded  to  shed  water,  will  so  protect 
them  that,  though  the  tops  may  freeze,  all  below  the 
soil  will  be  likely  to  live.  Over  this  should  be  placed 
several  inches  of  rough  litter  or  leaves  and  a  frame 
of  rough  boards  put  around  the  beds  and  covered  with 
sash,  canvas,  or  boards  to  shed  rain. 

Young  climbing  Roses  should  have  three  or  four 
inches  of  earth  banked  up  around  them;  wrap  their 
tops  with  straw  or  sacking,  or  old  carpet  may  be 
drawn  over  them  and  tacked  to  the  trellis  or  support 
on  which  they  grow.  Plants  under  the  eaves  of  the 
house,  where  the  water  drips,  should  have  boards 
arranged  to  catch  and  divert  it  to  the  lawn. 

Protect  equally  from  the  cold  winds  of  winter  and 


Nineteen]  nt*        WttlQK  *>S 

the  sun ;  plants  are  not  injured  so  much  by  freezing  as 
by  thawing  suddenly,  as  they  must  when  the  sun  shines 
directly  upon  them.  If  they  thaw  gradually,  little  if 
any  damage  is  done,  but  sudden  thawing  ruptures  the 
plant-cells,  causing  serious  injury.  To  prevent  this 
and  the  settling  of  water  about  the  roots  are  the  points 
to  keep  in  mind  when  giving  winter  protection. 

For  plants  whose  tops  die,  leaves  offer  an  excellent 
protection — better  than  manure,  in  that  they  do  not 
scatter  seeds  of  weeds.  For  plants  that  form  a  fall 
crown  of  leaves — as  the  Hollyhock  or  Annunciation 
Lily — a  box  with  an  open  end  filled  lightly  with  leaves 
is  satisfactory.  Close,  air-tight  covers,  as  boxes,  tin 
pails,  iron  kettles,  and  the  like,  should  never  be  used 
to  protect  plants  of  any  kind.  Wooden  frames 
covered  with  wire  netting  and  filled  loosely  with 
leaves,  allowing  the  moisture  to  evaporate  rapidly, 
have  given  the  best  results ;  next  come  frames  covered 
with  thin  cotton  cloth,  then  loose  boxes  with  one  end 
knocked  out.  The  idea  is  to  retain  the  dry  leaves 
around  the  plant,  protect  from  sun  and  cold  wind,  and 
allow  the  rapid  evaporation  of  any  moisture  that  may 
collect.  Wet  or  frozen  leaves  around  a  plant  are 
worse  than  no  protection ;  especially  is  this  true  in  the 
case  of  Myosotis,  Pansies,  Carnations,  Canterbury- 
bells,  and  Foxglove,  all  of  which  do  better  in  the  cold- 
frames.  Where  these  are  not  available,  recourse  may 
be  had  to  the  boxes  with  netting,  or  to  evergreen 
boughs.  When  filling  in  about  a  plant  with  leaves  do 


206  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

it  lightly,  as  a  mass  closely  packed  becomes  damp  and 
mouldy,  and  kills  rather  than  protects. 

Plants  too  tall  to  be  covered  should  be  protected 
with  straw  or  corn-stalks;  cover  for  some  litttle  dis- 
tance beyond  the  roots  with  leaves  or  litter,  and  place 
straw  or  corn  fodder  around  them,  bringing  it  to  a 
point  at  top,  and  tying  firmly  there  and  in  the  middle, 
sloping  the  stalks  sufficiently  to  shed  rain.  Tall  Rose- 
bushes, young  Althaeas,  and  similar  growths,  are  much 
benefited  by  this  form  of  protection.  Long  beds  of 
plants — as  Japanese  Iris,  Pansies,  and  the  like — may  be 
protected  by  taking  narrow  boards  eighteen  or  twenty 
inches  long,  with  a  notch  cut  in  one  end,  the  other  end 
being  pointed  and  driven  into  the  ground;  set  these 
at  intervals  through  the  centre  of  the  beds ;  place  the 
poles  lengthwise  of  the  beds,  their  ends  resting  in  the 
notches,  and  arrange  evergreen  boughs  across  the 
poles  on  each  side  to  shed  rain.  Corn  fodder  may  be 
used  where  the  evergreens  cannot  be  procured,  or  a 
row  of  pegs  may  support  two  boards,  forming  a  A- 
shaped  roof,  which  will  protect  from  wind,  sun,  and 
water  equally.  Protect  the  Lily  and  Peony  beds  with 
a  foot  of  leaves  and  rough,  old  manure.  Rhododen- 
drons, at  the  North,  must  have  both  roots  and  tops 
protected  if  there  is  to  be  any  bloom  the  following 
year.  Muslin-covered  frames  and  leaves  will  do  this 
best.  Great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  break  off  the 
buds,  which  are  exceedingly  brittle.  Frames  with  re- 
movable lids  that  will  admit  of  filling  in  gradually, 


Nineteen] 


and  allow  the  leaves  to  settle  before  finishing,  are  best. 
Pile  leaves  around  the  roots  of  Clematis,  and  stretch 
sacking  or  other  cloth  over  the  trellises  on  which  they 
grow.  Protect  in  the  same  way  English  Ivy  and 
Ampelopsis  Veitchi  while  young.  A  northwest  angle 
of  a  building  affords  very  good  protection. 


Chapter   TJTENTT 

Cf)e  Care  of  i|0use=plattts  in 


PLANTS  for  winter  blooming  should  be 
brought  into  the  house  before  the  nights 
get  chilly.  By  becoming  gradually  ac- 
customed to  the  air  of  the  house  before 
the  doors  are  closed  and  the  fires  started, 
they  will  be  less  affected  by  the  change. 

Do  not  crowd  into  the  window  more  plants  than  it 
can  conveniently  hold.  Plants  must  have  room  to 
breathe  and  grow,  and  abundant  light.  No  plant 
should  touch  its  neighbours.  Even  with  this  amount 
of  room  at  the  start  they  will  be  badly  crowded  before 
spring,  and  it  will  probably  be  necessary  to  remove 
some. 

Shelves,  brackets,  and  stands  should  be  in  place  be- 
fore the  plants  are  brought  in,  as  changing  about  and 
handling  are  bad  for  them.  Plants  with  tender  fo- 
liage, as  Cinerarias,  Primulas,  and  the  like,  do  best 
on  a  window-bracket,  and  the  capacity  of  the  window 
is  greatly  increased  by  the  use  of  brackets.  Plants 
with  drooping  leaves  should  have  single  brackets,  to 

ao8 


avoid  contact  with  other  plants.  The  Bougainvillea, 
also,  does  better  on  a  bracket,  being  of  a  trailing 
habit.  It  is  not,  however,  a  good  winter  bloomer, 
usually  coming  in  late  in  March  and  continuing  until 
December,  but  it  is  very  reliable  during  that  time  and 
requires  less  care  than  any  house-plant  with  which  I 
am  familiar,  unless  it  be  the  Araucaria. 

See  that  all  shelves  are  securely  fastened,  and  strong 
enough  to  sustain  the  weight  to  be  placed  upon  them. 
The  additional  protection  of  a  small  brass  chain 
fastening  the  outer  edge  of  the  shelf  to  the  window- 
casing  above  it  will  ease  the  strain  on  the  brackets  and 
give  greater  security. 

See  that  all  hanging-baskets  are  securely  hung  with 
copper  wire,  and  that  there  is  no  danger  of  the  hooks 
from  which  they  are  suspended  pulling  out. 

Do  not  start  in  with  a  number  of  plants  the  require- 
ments of  which  are  entirely  unknown.  Where  con- 
ditions for  their  proper  care  are  not  obtainable  it  will 
be  wiser  to  content  one's  self  with  familiar  plants  of- 
fering a  reasonable  hope  of  success,  as  Geraniums, 
Hyacinths,  or  Primroses.  A  healthy,  vigorous  plant, 
however  common,  is  preferable  to  a  sickly  one,  be  it 
ever  so  rare. 

A  fair  degree  of  atmospheric  moisture  should  be 
maintained  by  keeping  a  dish  of  water  on  stove, 
register,  or  radiator.  Where  bulbs  are  grown  a 
healthy  degree  of  humidity  is  secured  by  evaporation 
and  transpiration  as  shown  by  moisture  gathering  on 


210  The  Flower  Garden         [Chapter 

the  glass  when  the  temperature  falls.  Moisture  in 
the  soil  is  a  more  difficult  matter,  and  greater  harm  is 
done  through  ignorance  in  this  particular  than  in  any 
other  way.  Either  plants  are  allowed  to  suffer  for 
water,  or  they  are  drenched  indiscriminately.  All  are 
watered  alike,  irrespective  of  individual  need,  whereas 
the  requirements  of  each  should  be  studied.  A  few 
plants,  natives  of  bogs — as  the  Calla — require  con- 
stant moisture  when  growing.  Heliotrope,  on  the 
other  hand,  turns  yellow  when  over-watered.  Water 
should  be  applied  thoroughly  when  given  and  then 
withheld  until  the  plant  is  nearly  dry  again.  This  in- 
duces a  stocky  growth,  with  well-ripened  wood, 
capable  of  producing  healthy  bloom.  To  keep  a 
plant  constantly  wet  may  produce  a  quick  growth, 
but  it  will  be  a  soft  one,  incapable  of  the  best  re- 
sults. 

Flower-pots  should  not  be  filled  to  the  brim  with 
earth,  but  sufficient  space  should  be  left  to  hold 
enough  water  to  thoroughly  saturate  the  soil  in  each 
pot — a  full  inch  or  more  in  the  case  of  six-inch 
pots,  and  at  least  half  an  inch  for  small  pots. 
The  soil  must  be  sufficiently  open  to  take  the  water 
quickly.  Heliotrope,  and  some  other  plants,  form 
a  thick  network  of  roots,  which  the  water  cannot 
penetrate  readily,  and  channels  should  be  opened 
through  them  with  a  pencil  or  stick.  See  that  the 
water  really  penetrates  the  soil  instead  of  merely  pass- 
ing between  the  ball  of  earth  and  the  pot.  Hanging- 


Twenty] 


baskets  of  wire  and  moss  are  best  watered  by  setting 
in  a  large  pail  until  thoroughly  soaked.  One  such 
watering  will  last  a  week,  unless  the  room  is  very  hot 
and  dry. 

Give  sun-loving  plants  all  the  sunshine  possible. 
Geraniums  especially  love  to  be  close  to  the  glass,  and 
the  difference  is  quickly  seen  in  the  quality  of  the  blos- 
soms. Shower  every  day,  if  possible,  especially  such 
plants  as  Heliotropes,  Cinerarias,  Cyclamen,  Lan- 
tanas,  and,  if  not  once  a  day,  at  least  once  a  week. 
Dipping  the  entire  plant  in  a  tub  of  quite  warm  water 
is  a  great  benefit,  as  in  that  way  every  part  of  the 
plant  is  reached. 

I  do  not  especially  approve  of  the  advice  so  con- 
stantly given  to  "keep  an  old  fork  handy  to  stir  the 
soil,  that  the  roots  may  have  air."  The  leaves  are  the 
lungs  of  the  plants,  and  if  these  are  kept  clean  there 
will  be  no  trouble  about  their  breathing.  Moreover, 
if  necessary  to  get  air  to  the  roots,  stirring  the  soil 
would  be  a  very  poor  way  to  do  it,  as  cultivation 
of  the  surface  is  intended  to  keep  air  out  and 
moisture  in.  To  this  end  we  make  a  dry  mulch 
over  flower-beds  and  the  farmer  cultivates  his  corn 
in  a  "dry  spell,"  knowing  that  the  formation  of 
a  dry  crust  will  result  in  the  rapid  evaporation  of 
the  moisture  in  the  soil,  the  dry  air  shrinking  the  soil 
and  opening  up  its  pores,  as  it  were,  letting  the  hot  air 
in  and  the  moisture  out.  This  advantage  the  practice 
has:  it  counteracts  any  tendency  to  sourness  in  the 


212  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

soil,  and  should  be  resorted  to  whenever  there  is 
any  suspicion  of  this,  or  when  the  earth  in  which 
tender  or  succulent-stemmed  plants  are  growing 
seems  hard  and  will  not  take  water  readily.  The 
Amaryllis  objects  to  this  disturbance,  and  hard- 
wooded  plants,  which  require  firm  potting,  should 
not  be  disturbed  by  more  than  the  merest  scratching 
of  the  surface. 

Give  support  to  such  plants  as  need  it,  promptly; 
failure  in  this  respect  may  result  in  the  loss  of  a  cher- 
ished blossom,  or  the  disfigurement  of  a  plant. 

Pinch  back  all  weak  and  straggling  growths,  trim- 
ming the  plants  to  grow  stocky  and  symmetrical. 

Avoid,  as  far  as  possible,  a  sudden  change  of  tem- 
perature, as  a  sudden  chill  will  greatly  injure  some 
plants,  though  they  may  not  be  actually  frozen. 
Plants  may  be  left  in  the  window  as  long  as  the  glass 
is  not  frosted,  but  at  the  slightest  appearance  of  frost 
they  must  be  moved  back  out  of  actual  contact  with 
the  glass.  The  thermometer  drops  suddenly  at  times, 
and  plants  that  were  considered  quite  safe  at  night 
may  be  found  frozen  in  the  morning.  When  the  ther- 
mometer in  the  window  indicates  a  safe  temperature 
and  that  outside  a  stationary  one,  though  very  low,  the 
plants  may  be  left  where  they  are ;  but  beware  of  fall- 
ing temperature,  and  protect  with  several  thicknesses 
of  newspaper  between  the  plants  and  the  window, 
bringing  it  well  out  beyond  the  window-frames.  All 
cracks  between  the  sash  and  casing  should  be  carefully 


Twenty] 


sealed  with  strips  of  cloth  or  paper,  the  colour  of  the 
woodwork,  neatly  pasted  over,  effectually  shutting 
out  draughts.  This  alone  will  help  immensely  in  pro- 
tecting plants,  and  storm-windows  are  safe  and  save 
much  trouble. 

Fresh  air,  which  plants  must  have,  should  be  sup- 
plied through  another  room,  where  it  will  be  warmed 
before  reaching  them.  A  screen,  so  placed  as  to  cut 
off  draughts  when  a  door  is  opened  to  air  the  room, 
will  be  found  a  great  convenience. 

When  plants  are  frozen  they  should  be  thawed  very 
gradually.  Darken  the  room  and  keep  the  tempera- 
ture low,  raising  it  gradually.  If,  however,  the  plants 
are  in  a  living-room,  where  the  temperature  cannot 
conveniently  be  kept  low  for  any  length  of  time,  re- 
move them  to  the  cellar  until  the  frost  is  drawn  out 
of  them,  when,  if  not  too  badly  damaged,  they  may 
be  returned  to  the  window  and  encouraged  to  grow. 
Geraniums  are  rarely  injured  by  one  freezing,  the  loss 
of  the  leaves  being  the  chief  damage,  and  if  the  plants 
are  returned  at  once  to  the  window  this  may  prove 
an  advantage,  as  wherever  a  leaf  falls  a  new  shoot 
will  usually  be  forced,  making  the  plant  much  more 
stocky  and  thrifty.  During  an  unusually  severe  storm, 
a  Geranium  left  in  the  window  of  a  room  away  from 
direct  heat  was  badly  frosted.  As  it  was  not  a  very 
choice  variety  no  effort  was  made  to  save  it.  The 
room  was  closed,  and  a  temperature  of  12°  below 
zero  reigned  for  several  days.  When  the  weather 


214  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

moderated  and  the  temperature  rose  to  32°  the  room 
was  opened  and  warmed,  the  Geranium  remaining 
on  its  shelf.  In  a  few  days,  seemingly,  the  axil  of 
every  vanished  leaf  had  bourgeoned  into  tender 
green,  and  in  a  short  time  the  Geranium  was  as 
thrifty  as  ever,  blossoming  better  the  following  sum- 
mer than  at  any  time  before.  Favourable  growing 
conditions  should  be  given  as  soon  after  freezing  as 
possible,  that  all  the  vitality  may  be  utilised  and  not 
wasted  to  sustain  life  in  the  unfavourable  conditions 
existing  in  cellars. 

Showering  with,  and  dipping  in,  cold  water  slightly 
above  freezing  are  also  good  for  frosted  plants;  33° 
is  about  right,  as  a  higher  temperature  will  be  apt  to 
precipitate  the  evil  it  is  desired  to  avoid — the  rupture 
of  the  plant-cells. 

The  freezing  of  the  soil  in  pots,  which  often  hap- 
pens with  bulbs  or  plants  kept  quite  wet,  does  no 
particular  harm,  and  no  attention  need  be  paid  to  it 
as  long  as  the  tops  are  not  frozen. 

Remember  that  heat  rises,  and  that  the  upper  sash 
of  a  window  is  many  degrees  warmer  than  the  lower, 
so  that  by  having  an  upper  shelf  you  can  grow  plants 
requiring  a  much  higher  temperature  than  those  on 
the  lower  shelf.  For  the  same  reason  hanging-baskets 
require  much  more  water  than  plants  on  low  shelves, 
and  should  be  showered  frequently  to  counteract  the 
dryer  atmosphere.  A  rubber  sprinkler  is  indispen- 
sable for  this  purpose;  by  its  use  flowers  may  be  suf- 


Twenty]  USt^US  «S 

ficiently  showered  every  day  to  keep  back  red  spiders 
and  materially  change  the  atmosphere. 

Compost,  sand,  old  manure,  and  drainage  material 
should  be  prepared  in  the  fall  and  put  in  a  frost-proof 
place  ready  for  any  repotting  that  may  be  necessary 
during  the  winter,  and  for  the  early  sowing  of  seeds 
in  the  house. 

In  another  chapter  will  be  found  formulas  for  the 
various  insecticides  required  for  the  extermination  of 
the  pests  likely  to  attack  plants  in  the  close,  dry  air 
of  the  living-room.  If  attention  is  paid  to  the  supply 
of  fresh  air  and  moisture  little,  if  any,  trouble  will  be 
experienced  on  this  score. 

Plants  coming  into  bloom  will  require  some  fertil- 
iser, and  as  there  are  objections  to  the  use  of  manure- 
water  in  the  house  the  following  formula  will  be 
found  very  satisfactory:  Get  at  the  druggist's  one 
and  a  half  pounds  (or  ounces)  nitrate  of  soda,  one- 
half  pound  (or  ounce)  phosphate  of  soda,  and  one 
pound  (or  ounce)  sulphate  of  potash.  Mix  and  pul- 
verise the  material  thoroughly.  When  required  for 
use  put  a  rounding  tablespoonful  of  this  mixture  in  a 
gallon  of  hot  water.  To  fertilise  the  plants  put  a 
teacupful  of  the  water,  when  cool,  on  a  six-inch  pot, 
and  more  in  proportion  on  larger  pots.  Do  not  use 
oftener  than  once  in  two  weeks,  and  do  not  let  it 
touch  the  foliage. 

All  the  Asparagus  group  are  benefited  by  the  use  of 
a  good  fertiliser,  especially  is  this  the  case  with  A. 


2i6  The  Flower  Garden 

Sprengeri,  which  makes  a  root  growth  so  vigorous 
that  it  would  be  unmanageable  were  it  not  for  the  use 
of  fertilisers,  which  make  it  possible  to  keep  it  within 
reasonable  bounds. 

Begonias,  on  the  other  hand,  are  usually  injured  by 
the  use  of  fertilisers. 


Chapter   TWENTY-ONE 

Common  auto  Cnsltsf)  Barnes  of 
jflotoers 


W 


HERE  a  plant  has  a  double  name 
— as  Hypericum  Moserianum — 
only  the  first  will  be  given,  as 
it  will  be  indexed  in  the  cata- 
logues that  way. 


Abyssinian  Banana, 
Adam's  Needle, 
Alleghany  Vine, 
Alum  Root, 
American  Cowslip, 
American  Senna, 
Amethyst, 
Artillery  Plant, 
Aurora's  Bower, 
Australian  Glory  Pea, 
Baby's  Breath, 
Bachelor's  Button, 
Balsam  Apple, 
Balsam  Pear, 


See  Musa. 

"  Yucca. 

"  Adlumia. 

"  Heuchera. 

"  Dodecatheon. 

"  Cassia. 

"  Browallia. 

"  Pilea. 

"  Gaillardia. 

"  Clianthus. 

"  Gypsophila. 

"  Globe  Amaranth. 

"  Momordica. 

"  Momordica. 


ai7 


2l8 


The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 


Banana  Shrub, 

See 

Magnolia. 

Barrenwort, 

it 

Epimedium. 

Basket  of  Gold, 

a 

Alyssum. 

Bath  Flower, 

ft 

Trillium. 

Beard  Tongue, 

it 

Pentstemon. 

Bird's  Nest  Fern, 

n 

Aspidium  Nidus- 

Avis. 

Bishop's  Weed, 

t( 

ALgopodium. 

Black-eyed  Susan, 

if 

Thunbergia. 

Bleeding  Heart, 

tf 

Dicentra. 

Blood  Flower, 

n 

Hcemanthus. 

Bluebottle, 

u 

Centaurea. 

Bluebottle, 

u 

Grape  Hyacinth. 

Blue  Leadwort, 

II 

Plumbago. 

Blue  Lyme  Grass, 

It 

Elymus. 

Blue  Salvia, 

II 

S.  patens. 

Blue  Vetch, 

" 

Grape  Hyacinth. 

Bluet, 

II 

Houstonia. 

Boston  Ivy, 

II 

Ampelopsis. 

Bowman's   Root, 

11 

Gillenia. 

Bugle, 

11 

Ajuga. 

Bugle  Vine, 

II 

Calampelis. 

Burning  Bush, 

« 

Euonymus. 

Butterfly  Flower, 

II 

Centrosema. 

Butterfly  Flower, 

II 

Schizanthus. 

Butterfly  Orchid, 

II 

Epidendrum. 

Butterfly  Weed, 

ti 

Asclepias. 

Calico  Bush, 

tl 

Kalmia. 

California  Poppy, 

If 

Eschscholtzia. 

Twenty-one] 


Of 


"9 


Canterbury  Bell, 

See 

Campanula. 

Cape  Hyacinth, 

a 

H.  candicans. 

Cardinal  Flower, 

If 

Lobelia. 

Castor  Bean, 

II 

Ricinus. 

Cheneil  Plant, 

II 

Acalypha. 

Chilian  Glory  Flower, 

If 

Eccremocarpus. 

Chimney  Bell  Flower, 

If 

Campanula. 

Chinese  Bell  Flower, 

If 

Platycodon. 

Chinese  Lantern  Plant, 

II 

Physalis. 

Chinese  Matrimony 

Vine, 

If 

Lucium. 

Chinese  Paper  Plant, 

If 

Bougainville  a. 

Christmas  Berry, 

II 

Ardisia. 

Christmas  Rose, 

If 

Helleborus. 

Cinnamon  Vine, 

If 

Dioscorea. 

Cinquefoil, 

If 

Potentilla. 

Climbing  Fumitory, 

If 

Adlumia. 

Climbing  Hawthorn, 

u 

Actinidia. 

Cock's  Comb, 

If 

Celosia. 

Columbine, 

ff 

Aquilegia. 

Cone  Flower, 

If 

Rudbeckia. 

Coral  Plant, 

If 

Erythrina. 

Corn  Flower, 

(( 

Centaurea. 

Cowslip, 

If 

Primula. 

Crane's  Bill, 

If 

Geranium. 

Creeping  Mallow, 

If 

Callirhoe. 

Crown  Vetch, 

If 

Coronilla. 

Cruel  Plant, 

" 

Physianthus. 

Cup-and-Saucer  Plant, 

u 

Campanula. 

220 


The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 


Cup-and-Saucer  Vine, 
Cup  Flower, 
Cushion  Pink, 
Dark  Mullen, 
Day  Lily, 
Devil-in-the-Bush, 
Double  Buttercup, 
Dropwort, 
Duck  Plant, 
Dutchman's  Breeches, 
Dutchman's  Pipe, 
Dusty  Miller, 
Dusty  Miller, 
Edelweiss, 
Emerald  Feather, 
English  Daisy, 
Evening  Glory, 
Evening  Primrose, 
Everlasting, 
Everlasting, 
Everlasting, 
Everlasting, 
Everlasting, 
Everlasting, 
Everlasting, 
Fair  Maids  of  France, 
False  Chamomile, 
False  Dragon  Head, 
False  Indigo, 


See  Cobcea. 

"  Nierembergia. 

"  Armeria. 

"  Ferbascum. 

"  Hemerocallis. 

"  Nigella. 

"  Ranunculus. 

"  Spircea. 

"  Aristolochia. 

"  Dielytra. 

"  Aristolochia. 

"  Centaurea. 

"  Cineraria. 

"  Gnaphalium. 

"  Asparagus. 


"  Ipomcea. 

"  CEnothera. 

"  Acroclinium. 

"  Ammobium. 

"  G/oZ?^  Amaranth. 

"  Helichrysum. 

"  Lathy  rus. 

11  Rhodanthe. 

"  Xeranthemum. 

"  Ranunculus. 

11  Boltonia. 

"  Physostegia. 

"  Baptisia. 


Twenty-one] 


Of 


221 


Feverfew, 

See 

Matricaria. 

Fire  on  the  Mountain, 

it 

Euphorbia. 

Flame  Flower, 

u 

Tritoma. 

Fleur  de  Lis, 

it 

Iris. 

Flora's  Paint  Brush, 

14 

Cacalia. 

Florida  Rattle  Box, 

u 

Crotolaria. 

Floss  Flower, 

(I 

Ageratum. 

Flowering  Currant, 

u 

Ribes. 

Flowering  Dogwood, 

« 

Cornus. 

Flowering  Maple, 

(i 

Abutilon. 

Flowering  Sage, 

n 

Salvia. 

Flowering  Spurge, 

n 

Euphorbia. 

Forget-me-not, 

It 

My  os  otis. 

Fountain  Plant, 

II 

Acalypha. 

Four-o'clock, 

II 

Marvel  of  Peru. 

Fringe  Flower, 

« 

Schizanthus. 

Garden  Flower, 

« 

Schizanthus. 

Gardener's  Garter, 

« 

Phalaris. 

Garland  Flower, 

u 

Daphne. 

Gas  Plant, 

u 

Dictamnus. 

Gay  Feather, 

u 

Liatris. 

Gilliflower, 

u 

Cheiranthus. 

Globe  Flower, 

II 

Trollius. 

Glory  Pea  of  Australia, 

U 

Clianthus. 

Goat's  Beard, 

" 

Spircea. 

Gold  Lack, 

II 

Wall  Flower. 

Golden  Bush  Pea, 

II 

Crotolaria. 

Golden  Feather, 

II 

Pyre  thrum. 

Golden  Honey  Bell, 

u 

Mahernia. 

222 


The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 


Golden-leaved  Elder, 
Golden  Rod, 
Golden  Tuft, 
Great  Reed, 
Great  Sea  Lavender, 
Groundsel, 
Hawk's  Beard, 
Holly  Fern, 
Honey  Bell, 
Horn  of  Plenty, 
Horned  Poppy, 
Horse  Mint, 
House  Leek, 
Humble  Plant, 
Hyacinth  Clematis, 
Jacobean  Lily, 
Jacob's  Ladder, 
Japan  Quince, 
Japanese  Bell  Flower, 
Japanese  Beni, 
Japanese  Hop, 
Japanese  Ivy, 
Japanese  Primrose, 
Japanese  Primrose, 
Japanese  Virgin's  Bower, 
Japanese  Winter  Cherry, 
Jerusalem  Cherry, 
Jerusalem  Cross, 
Kenilworth  Ivy, 


See  Sambucus. 

"  Solidago. 

"  Alyssum. 

"  Arundo  Donax. 

"  Limonium. 

"  Glechoma. 

"  Crepis. 

"  Crytomium. 

"  Mahernia. 

"  Datura. 

"  Glaucium. 

"  Monarda. 

"  Sempervivum. 

"  Mimosa. 

"  Clematis  Davidiana. 

"  Amaryllis. 

"  Polemonium. 

"  Pjr«5. 

"  Platycodon. 

"  Caryopteris. 

"  Humulus. 

"  Ampelopsis. 

"  Cortusoidea. 

11  Primula. 

"  Clematis. 

"  Physalis. 

"  Solatium. 

"  Lychnis. 

"  Linaria. 


Twenty-one]      J^ttlES  Of 


223 


Lady  Washington, 
Larkspur, 
Lavender  Cotton, 
Lawn  Pearl  wort, 
Lemon  Verbena, 
Leopard  Plant, 
Lilac, 

Lily  of  the  Palace, 
Lily  of  the  Palace, 
Little  Bo-Peep, 
Liverwort, 
London  Tufts, 
Look  at  Me, 
Love  Grove, 
Love  in  a  Mist, 
Love  Lies  Bleeding, 
Lungwort, 

Madagascar  Periwinkle, 
Maidenhair  Fern, 
Mallow, 
Maltese  Cross,  • 
Mariposa  Lily, 
Marsh  Mallow, 
Meadow  Beauty, 
Meadow  Sage, 
Meadow  Star, 
Mexican  Fire  Plant, 
Mexican  Lily, 
Michaelmas  Daisies, 


See  Pelargonium. 

"  Delphinium. 

"  Santolina. 

"  Spergula. 

"  Verbena. 

"  Farfugium. 

"  Syringa. 

"  Agapanthus. 

"  Amaryllis. 

"  Antirrhinum. 

"  Hepatica. 

"  Sweet  William, 

"  Centrosema. 

"  Nemophila. 


A  mar  an  thus. 
Martensia. 


Adiantum. 
"    Hibiscus. 


"    Calochortus. 
"    Hibiscus. 


Spircea. 

"    Euphorbia. 
"    Amaryllis. 


224 


'The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 


Monkey  Flower, 
Monkshood, 
\A  Moon  Flower, 
Moonpenny  Daisy, 
Moonwort, 
Morning  Glory, 
Mosses, 
Moss  Pink, 
Moss  Verbena, 
Mother  of  Thousands, 
Mountain  Fleece, 
Mountain  Fringe, 
Mountain  Laurel, 
Mourning  Bride, 
Mouse-ear  Chickweed, 
Moustache  Plant, 
Musk  Plant, 
Old  Maid, 
Old  Man, 
Old  Woman, 
Orchid  Vine, 
Oriental  Poppy, 
Oswego  Tea, 
Painted  Daisy, 
Painted  Leaf, 
Painted  Tongue, 
Pampas  Grass, 
Pancratium, 
Paris  Daisy, 


See  Mimulus. 

"  Aconitum. 

"  Ipomoea. 

"  Chrysanthemum. 

"  Honesty. 
Ipomoea. 

"  Selaginellas. 

11  Phlox. 

11  Verbena. 

"  Saxifrage. 

"  Polygonum. 

"  Adlumia. 

"  Kalmia. 

11  Scabiosa. 

"  Cerastium. 

"  Caryopteris. 

11  Mimulus. 

"  Vmca. 

"  Artemesia. 

"  Artemesia. 

"  Stigmaphyllon. 

"  Pap  aver. 

"  Monarda. 

"  Chrysanthemum. 

"  Euphorbia. 
Salpiglossis. 

"  Gynerium. 

"  Ismene  (in  part) 

"  Chrysanthemum. 


Twenty-one] 


Of 


"5 


Passion  Flower, 

See  Passiflora. 

Peacock  Flower, 

"    Tigridia. 

Pearl  Bush, 

"    Exochorda. 

Peppermint, 

"    Mentha. 

Periwinkle, 

"    Finca. 

Persian  Daisy, 

"    Pyrethrum. 

Pheasant's  Eye, 

"    Adonis. 

Pincushion  Flower, 

"    Scabiosa. 

Pinks, 

"    Dianthus. 

Plantain  Lily, 

"    Funkia. 

Plume  Poppy, 

"    Bocconia. 

Pot  of  Gold, 

"    Calendula. 

Purple  Bells, 

"    Rodochiton. 

Purple  Fountain, 

"    Pennisetum. 

Purple  Grass, 

"    Pennisetum. 

Purple-leaved  Plum, 

"    Prunus. 

Queen  Lily, 

"    Amaryllis. 

Ragged  Robin, 

"    Lychnis. 

Ragged  Sailor, 

"    Centaurea. 

Red-hot  Poker, 

"    Tritoma. 

Rock  Cress, 

"    ^r^w. 

Rock  Madwort, 

"    Alyssum. 

Rose  Campion, 

"    Lychnis. 

Rose  of  Heaven, 

"    Agrostemma. 

Rubber  Plant, 

"     FlCW5. 

Sage  Palm, 

"      C>^5. 

St.  John's  Wort, 

"    Hypericum. 

St.  Bernard's  Lily, 

"    Liliago. 

Sand  Root, 

"    Arenaria. 

226 


The  Flower  Garden       [Chapter 


Sand  Verbena, 
Scarb rough  Lily, 
Scarlet  Flax, 
Scarlet-fruited  Gourd, 

Scarlet  Sage, 

Sea  Holly, 

Sea  Pink, 

Seal  Flower, 

Segar  Plant, 

Sensitive  Plant, 

Shaking  Fern, 

Shell  Flower, 

Shooting  Star, 

Shrubby  Honeysuckle, 

Silk  Oak, 

Silver  Bells, 

Slipper  Flower, 

Smoke  Tree, 

Snapdragon, 

Sneezewort, 

Snowball, 

Snowberry, 

Snow  in  Summer, 

Snow  on  the  Mountain, 

Southern  Wood, 

Speedwell, 

Spider  Plant, 

Spike  Grass, 


See  Verbena. 

"  Vallota. 

"  Linum. 

"  Bryonopsis,  or 

Gourds. 

"  Salvia. 

"  Armeria. 

"  Armeria. 

"  Dielytra. 

"  Cuphea. 

"  Mimosa. 

"  Pteris. 

"  Tigridia. 

"  Dodecatheon. 

"  Lonicera. 

"  Grevillea. 


"    Calceolaria. 
" 


"  Antirrhinum. 

"  Helenium. 

"  Viburnum. 

"  Symphoricarpus. 

"  Cerastium. 

"  Euphorbia. 

"  Abrotanum. 

"  Veronica. 


Twenty-one]      j|attte2i  Of 


227 


Spring  Beauty, 

Starworts, 

Stone  Crop, 

Straw  Flower, 

Sulphur  Fern, 

Sunflower, 

Sun  Plant, 

Swan  River  Daisy, 

Swan  River  Everlasting, 

Sweet  Olive, 

Sweet  Sultan, 

Tassel  Flower, 

Thrift, 

Toad  Flax, 

Toad  Lily, 

Tobacco  Plant, 

Torch  Lily, 

Tree  Celandine, 

Trumpet  Flower, 

Trumpet  Vine, 

Umbrella  Plant, 

Variegated  Comfrey, 

Venus'  Looki-ng-Glass, 

Virgin's  Bower, 

Wake  Robin, 

Wawhaw, 

Wax  Plant, 

Wax  Plant, 


See  Claytonia. 

"  Asters. 

"  Sedum. 

"  Helichrysum. 

"  Gymnogramma. 

"  Helianthus. 

"  Portulaca. 

"  Br  achy  come. 

"  Rhodanthe. 

"  Olea. 

"  Centaurea. 

"  Cacalla. 

"  Armeria. 

"  Linaria. 

"  Castalia. 

"  Nicotiana. 

"  Tritoma. 

"  Bocconia. 

"  Datura. 

"  Bignonia. 

"  Cy  perus. 

"  Symphytum. 

"  Campanula. 

"  Clematis. 


Euonymus. 

Ho^. 

Mesembryantht- 


mum. 


228  The  Flower  Garden         [Chapter 


White  Fringe, 

See  Chionanthus. 

Whitlow  Grass, 

"    Draba. 

Wild  Cucumber, 

"    Echinocystis. 

Wind  Flower, 

"    Anemone. 

Winged  Everlasting, 

"    Ammobium. 

Wolf's-bane, 

"    Aconitum. 

Wood  Lily, 

"    Trillium. 

Woodruff, 

"    Asperula. 

Yellow  Flax, 

"    Linum. 

Youth  and  Old  Age, 

"    Zinnia. 

Zanzibar  Balsam, 

"    Impatiens. 

Zebra  Grass, 

"    £«/*«*. 

TIME   FOR  GERMINATION  OF  SEEDS 

From  Three  to  Five  Days 

Ageratum,  Mina  lobata, 

Ammobium,  Salvia, 

Aster,  Sedum, 

Celosia,  Silene  Shasta, 

Centaurea,  Spherogyne, 

Chrysanthemums,  Stevia, 

Cypress  Vine,  Stock — ten  week, 

Gilla,  Sweet  William, 

Hollyhock,  Tradescantia, 

Lavatera,  Tri  folium, 

Layia  Elegans,  Tunica, 

Leptosyne  Maritima,  Verbascum, 

Marigold,  Veronica, 

Mimulus,  Virginian  Stock, 


Twenty-one] 


"9 


Viscaria, 
Vittadenia, 

In  Five  to 

Acacia, 

Amaranthus, 

Arabis  Alpina, 

Beta, 

Brompton  Stock, 

Bromus, 

Browallia, 

Candytuft, 

Cannabis, 

Carnations, 

Centaurea, 

Chelone, 

Chrysanthemum  Indicum, 

Cineraria, 

Clitoria, 

Coleus, 

Coreopsis  Lanceolata, 

Crucianella, 

Cuphea, 

Cynoglossum, 

Dahlia, 

Daisy, 

Eschscholtzia, 

Eupatorium, 


Whitlavia, 
Zinnia. 

Seven  Days 

Gaillardia, 

Geranium, 

Gypsophila, 

Hablitzia, 

Helenium, 

Helianthus, 

Helichrysum, 

Hibiscus, 

Iberis  Gibraltarica, 

Linaria  Reticulata, 

Lobelia, 

Lupinus, 

Lychnis, 

Malva  Moschata, 

Mathiola, 

Mesembryanthemum, 

Mignonette, 

Morning  Glory, 

Nicotiana, 

Picotee, 

Pink, 

Salpiglossis, 

Schizanthug. 


230 


The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 


In  Eight  to  Ten  Days 


Abutilon, 

Achimines, 

Agrostemma, 

Antirrhinum, 

Armeria, 

Balsams, 

Begonia, 

Calceolaria, 

Campanula,  Annual, 

Canna, 

Capsicum, 

Commelyna  Coelestis, 

Deutzia, 

Digitalis, 

Dracocephalum, 

Erianthus, 

Gaura, 

Gloxinia, 

Gnaphalium, 

Hibiscus  Syriacus, 


Humulus  Japonica, 

Kaulfussia, 

Lychnis, 

Morina, 

Pansy, 

Pansy,  Viola, 

Papaver, 

Pentstemon, 

Petunia, 

Phacelia, 

Phlox  Drummondi, 

Poinsettia, 

Potentilla, 

Pyrethrum, 

Rudbeckia, 

Thunbergia, 

Tropaeolum, 

Valeriana, 

Verbena, 

Zea. 


Achillea, 
Alonsoa, 

Alyssum  Saxatile, 
Anchusa, 
Aquilegia, 


In  Ten  to  Twelve  Days 

Argemone, 

Artemisia, 

Asphodelus, 

Aubrietia, 

Bidens, 


Twenty-one]  aitlES  Of 


Calandrinia,  Helianthemum, 

Calonyction,  Linaria, 

Campanula,  Ipomopsis, 

Feverfew,  Scutellaria, 

Galtonia,  Silphium, 

Geum,  Spiraea. 
Gypsophila, 

In  Twelve  to  Fifteen  Days 

Anemone  Sylvestris,  Myosotis, 

Antigonon,  Nicotiana, 

Asters,  Per.,  Nierembergia, 

Callirhoe,  Peas, 

Campanula  Tenorei,  Perilla, 

Datura,  Petunia,  Double, 

Didiscus,  Platycodon, 

Gazanopsis,  Polemonium, 

Gourds,  Ranunculus, 

Hunnemannia,  Ricinus, 

Lantana,  Thalictrum, 

Mandevillea,  Torenia, 

Maurandya,  Verbena  Venosa. 

In  Fifteen  to  Twenty  Days 

Acanthus,  Cobaea, 

Agapanthus,  Cuphea, 

Anemone,  Dictamnus, 

Antigonon,  Geranium  Sanguineum, 

Armeria  Maritima,  Heliotrope, 

Calla,  Hemerocallis, 


232  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

Impatiens  Sultana,  Rivina  Humilis, 

Iris,  Smilax,  Boston, 

Liatris  Spicata,  Solanum  Robustum, 
Primula  Sinensis, 

In  Twenty  to  Thirty -five  Days 

Adlumia,  Funkia, 

Baptisia  Australis,  Gentiana  Acaulis, 

Berberis  Vulgaris,  Hibiscus  Speciosa, 

Campanula  Fragilis,  Humea  Elegans, 

Campanula  Leutweiana,  Musa  Ensete, 

Campanula  Macrantha,  Phlox,  Perennial, 

Campanula  Nobilis,  Phormium, 

Clematis  Diversi folia,  Physianthus, 

Clematis  Integri folia,  Tritoma  Uvaria, 

Clianthus  Dampieri,  Yucca. 
Delphinium  Nudicaule, 

One  Year  or  More 

Adlumia,  Iris, 

Ampelopsis,  Lilies, 

Anthericum,  Lupinus  Polyphyllus, 

Clematis,  in  variety,  Musa, 

Dictamnus,  Tradescantia, 

Fuchsia,  Viola  Odorata. 
Geranium  Sanguineum, 

In  the  foregoing  tables  it  will  be  observed  that  a 
flower  occasionally  appears  in  two  or  more  sections. 


Twenty-one]  ameS  O     jOerS  233 

When  this  occurs,  the  first  date  indicates  the  time  in 
which  strong  and  fresh  seed  should  germinate  in  flats 
in  the  house,  or  in  hotbeds;  the  latter  indicates  the 
time  for  old  seed,  under  less  favourable  conditions, 
and  marks  the  limit  of  time  in  which  plants  may  be 
expected. 


Chapter   TWENTY-TWO 

Blooming   Reason  of 
Cms,  l^rufcs,  atiti  plants 

T.— Tree.  S.— Shrub.  V.— Vine.  H.  P.— Hardy  Per- 
ennial. A. — Annual.  H.  H.  P. — Hardy  Herbaceous 
Perennial.  E. — Evergreen. 

April 

Akebia  Quinata H.  P.  V. 

Alyssum  Argenteum H.  P. 

Anemone  Blanda H.  P. 

Bellis  Perennis H.  P.  E. 

Dicentra — Bleeding  Heart H.  H.  P. 

Dicentra — Dutchman's  Breeches H.  P. 

Dodecatheon H.  P. 

Forsythia — Golden  Bells H.  S. 

Sanguinaria — Blood  Root H.  H.  P. 

Saxifrage , H.  P. 

Uvularia — Bellwort H.  P. 

Vinca,  Periwinkle,  Myrtle H.  P.  E. 

Violets,  in  var H.  P.  E. 

*34 


Blooming  jg>eagong 


May 

Adonis  ................................  H.  P. 

Ajuga  .............................  H.  H.  P. 

Alyssum  Argenteum  ..................  H.  H.  P. 

Alyssum  Saxatile.  .,  ...................  H.  H.  P. 

Amsonia  ...........................  H.  H.  P. 

Aquilegia  Argenteum  .................  H.  H.  P. 

Arum  —  Cuckoo  Flower  ...............  H.  H.  P. 

Aubretia  ...........................  H.  H.  P. 

Azalea  ..................................  S. 

Barberry  .................................  S. 

Bellis—  English  Daisy  .................  H.  P.  E. 

Callicarpa  Japonica  ......................  H.  P. 

Calycanthus  —  Sweet  Shrub  ..............  H.  P.  S. 

Chionanthus—  White  Wings  .............  H.  P.  S. 

Convallaria  —  Lily  of  the  Valley  .........  H.  H.  P. 

Daphne  ............................  H.  S.  E. 

Deutzia  .............................  H.  P.  S. 

Dicentra  ...........................  H.  H.  P. 

Doronicum  .........................  H.  H.  P. 

Double-  flowered  Almond  .................  H.  S. 

Double-  flowered  Crab  .  .  .  .  ,  ................  H.  S. 

Double-  flowered  Peach  ...................  H.  S. 

Epimedium  .........................  H.  H.  P. 

Euonymus  —  Burning  Bush  ................  H.  S. 

Exochorda  —  Pearl  Bush  ..................  H.  S. 

Genista  ..................  ..  .........  H.  H.  P. 

Halesia  —  Snowdrop  .........  .  ...........  H.  T. 


236  T'/ie  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

Hawthorn H.  T. 

Honeysuckle — Bush H.  S. 

Iris  Aurea H.  H.  P. 

Iris  Siberica H.  H.  P. 

Lychnis — Red  Campion H.  H.  P. 

Ornithogalum — Bulbous H.  H.  P. 

Phlox  Subulata .  .  . H.  P. 

Polemonium — Greek  Valerian H.  P. 

Polyanthus H.  P.  E. 

Potentilla,  June  to  August H.  P. 

Primula — English  Primrose H.  P.  E. 

Pulmonaria — Lungwort H.  H.  P. 

Pyrus — (Cydonia)  Japonica H.  P.  S. 

Ranunculus Half  H.  P. 

Rhododendrons H.  S.  E. 

Ribes — Flowering  Currant H.  S. 

Sanguinaria — Blood  Root H.  H.  P. 

Spircea  Filipendula H.  H.  P. 

Spircea  Thunbergi H.  S. 

Spircea  Fan  Houttei H.  S. 

Syringa — Lilac H.  T. 

Tamarix H.  S. 

Trillium H.  H.  P. 

Veronica H.  P. 

Viburnum — Snowball H.   S. 

Finca— Myrtle H.  P.  E. 

Weigela H.  S. 


Twenty-two]    BlOOttttttg  §Z>eaSOttSi  237 

'••> '.'.i! "i>"         June   ;••;;;• 

Aconltum — Monkshood H.  H.  P. 

Alstromerla — Peruvian  Lily .  .  .  . H.  H.  P. 

Anchusa H.  H.  P. 

Anthemls H.  H.   P. 

Antherlcum — St.  Bruno's  Lily H.  H.  P. 

Aqullegla H.  H.  P. 

Armerla H.   P. 

Arum H.   P. 

Astragalus— Milk  Fetch H.  H.  P. 

Baptism H.  P. 

Bellis H.  P.  E. 

Buphthalmum H.  P. 

Callirhoe H.  P. 

Campanula , H.  P.  E. 

Cassia. H.  P. 

Catalpa .  .  H.  T. 

Centaurea H.  P. 

Centranthus H.  P. 

Coreopsis H.   P. 

Cornus — Dogwood H.  T. 

Coronllla H.  P. 

Delphinium H.  H.  P. 

Deutzia  Gracllls H.  S. 

Deutzia — Pride  of  Rochester H.  S. 

Digitalis .  .H.  P.  E. 

Doronlcum H.  P. 

Dracocephalum .  . ,  .  .  H.  P. 


238  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

Erigeron H.  P. 

Heuchera H.  H.  P. 

Hollyhock H.  H.  P.  E. 

Honeysuckle H.  V. 

Hydrangea— Climbing H.  P.  V. 

Iris H.  H.  P. 

Jasminum .,. H.  P. 

Laburnum H.  T. 

Lathyrus — Everlasting  Pea H.  H.  P. 

Lilium  Canadense H.  H.  P.   (bulb) 

Lilium  Candidum H.  H.  P.  E.  (bulb) 

Lilium  Longiflorum H.  H.  P.  (bulb) 

Linden H.  T. 

Locust H.  T. 

Lychnis  Chalcedonica H.  H.  P. 

Lychnis  Coronaria H.  H.  P. 

Lychnis  Gigantea H.  H.  P. 

Magnolia H.  T. 

Monarda H.  P. 

Mountain  Ash H.  T. 

Papaver— Poppy H.  H.  P.  &  A. 

Pentstemon Half  H.  P. 

Philadelphus H.  T. 

Potentilla H.   P. 

Pyrethrum H.  H.  T. 

Ranunculus H.  P. 

Rhododendron H.  P.  E. 

Rose Hardy  S. 

Salpiglossis   A. 


Twenty-two]  OOmtttg      ^agOUS  239 

Schizanthus A. 

Sedum H.  P. 

Spircea,  in  var H.  P. 

Sweet  Alyssum A. 

Sweet  Peas A. 

Sweet  Scabiosa H.  P. 

Sweet  Sultan A. 

Veronica T.  P. 

Vinca E.  V. 

Violets H.  P.  E. 

July 

Achillea H.  H.  P. 

Allium  Angularis H.  P. 

Anthemis H.  P. 

Armeria H.    P. 

Asphodel H.  P. 

Aster  Alpinus H.  P. 

Bignonia  Radicans H.  P.  V. 

Bocconia H.  P. 

Campanula H.  P.  E. 

Candytuft A. 

Chrysanthemum  Maximum H.  P. 

Cobcea  Scandens Tender  P.  V. 

Coreopsis H.  P. 

Cosmos A. 

Dahlia Tender  P. 

Datura    A. 

Dictamnus -. .  .  H.  P. 


240  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

Digitalis H.  P.  E. 

Dracocephalum H.   P. 

Eccremocarpus V.  A. 

Euphorbia A. 

Evening  Primrose H.  P. 

Funkia P. 

Gypsophila    A. 

Iris — Japanese H.  P. 

Liatris H.   P. 

Lilium  Auratum H.  P. 

Linum H.   P. 

Lychnis H.  H.  P. 

Perennial  Phlox H.  H.  P. 

Phlox  Drummondi A. 

Potentilla H.  P. 

Salvia Tender  P. 

Statice H.  P. 

Thalictrum    H.  P. 

Thymus H.  P. 

Vinca Tender  P. 

Yucca H.  P.  E. 

August 

Achillea H.  H.  P. 

A  Ilium H.  P. 

Armeria H.  H.  P. 

Asphodel H.  H.  P. 

Bellis H.  P.  E. 

Callirhoe  .  H.  P. 


Twenty-two]     38lOOttttttg 


Campanula  ...............  ..........  H.  P.  E. 

Carnation  .............................  T.  P. 

Centranthus  ...........................  H.  P. 

Clerodendron    .........................  H.  P. 

Cobcea  ...............................  V.  A. 

Cosmos  .................................  A. 

Delphinium  ...........................  H.  P. 

Dianthus  ...........................  H.  H.  P. 

Digitalis  ...........................  H.   P.  E. 

Dolichos  ..............................  V.  A. 

Eupatorium  ...........................  H.  P. 

Euphorbia  ...............................  A. 

Funkia  ............................  H.  H.  P. 

Helianthus  ............................  H.  P. 

Hibiscus  ...........................  H.  H.  P. 

Hollyhock  ............................  H.  S. 

Hydrangea,  late  in  August  .............  H.  P.  S. 

Hypericum  Moserianum  ..................  H.  S. 

Liatris  ...............................  H.  P. 

Lilium  Album  .......................  H.  H.  P. 

Lilium  Auratum  .....................  H.  H.  P. 

Lilium  Melpomene  ...................  H.  H.  P. 

Lilium  Roseum  ......................  H.  H.  P. 

Lilium  Rubrum  ......................  H.  H.  P. 

Lobelia  Cardinalis  .................  H.  H.  P.  E. 

Lychnis  ............................  H.  H.  P. 

Monarda  .............................  H.  P. 

CEnothera  ............................  H.  P. 

Pentstemon   ...........................  H.  P. 


242  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

Phlox,  Perennial H.  H.  P. 

Platycodon H.  H.  P. 

Rudbeckia H.  H.  P. 

Salvia Tender  P. 

Sedum H.  P. 

Silphium   H.  P. 

Statice H.  P. 

Vinca Tender  P. 

September 

'Althea H.  P.  T. 

Anchusa H.  P. 

Anemone — Queen  Charlotte H.  H.  P. 

Anemone — Whirlwind H.  H.  P. 

Asters,  in  var A.  &  H.  H.  P. 

Boltonia    H.  P. 

Clematis  Paniculata H.   P.  V. 

Erianthus H.  P. 

Eulalia   H.  P. 

Eupatorium A.  H.  P. 

Euphorbia A. 

Gladiolus Bulbs 

Golden  Rod H.  H.  P. 

Hibiscus H.  P.  &  T.  P. 

Hydrangea H.  P. 

Ipomcea A. 

Lobelia  Cardinalis H.  H.  P.  E. 

Pampas  Grass Half  H.  P. 

Rudbeckia H.  P. 


Twenty-two]    9SlOOttUttg  |j>eaSOtt0  243 

Salvia T.  P. 

Statice H.  P. 

Tritoma , Tender  P. 

Finca Tender  P. 

All  Summer 

Ageratum    A. 

Antirrhinum T.  P. 

Armeria A. 

Balsam A. 

Bartonia P. 

Begonia,  Tuberous T.  P. 

Begonia,  Fernon T.  P. 

Brachycome P. 

Browallia T.  A. 

Canary  Bird  Fine A. 

Candytuft A. 

Canna Tender  P.  Rhizomes 

Celosia A. 

Centrosema H.  P. 

Clarkia A. 

Cleome  Pungens A. 

Cobcea  Scandens A. 

Collinsia   A. 

Cosmos A. 

Crotolaria A. 

Cypress  Fine A. 

Delphinium H.  P. 

Gloxinia ,  .T.  P. 


244  The  Flower  Garden 

Hyacinthus  Candicans H.  P. 

Ipomcea A. 

Maurandya P. 

Nasturtium   A. 

Pansy P. 

Petunia A. 

Portulaca A. 

Rose Hardy  or  Half  Hardy  S. 

Sweet  Pea A. 

Sweet  Scabiosa A. 

Sweet  Sultan H.  P. 

Thunbergia T.  P. 

Verbena T.  P. 

Veronica H.  P. 

Vinca T.  P. 

Vincetoxicum  .  .H.  P. 


Chapter   TWENTY-THREE 

Chapter  of  <®Vb8  auto 


TOOLS:    There    is   always    a    tendency 
among  beginners  to  overload  with  the 
paraphernalia  of  their  calling,  what- 
ever it  may  be.     When  the  first  en- 
thusiasm passes,  and  one  becomes  a 
careful  and  successful  worker,  all  that  is  superfluous 
is  gradually  dropped,  and  one  realises  that  it  is  brains 
and  not  tools  that  make  the  successful  gardener.    A 
hotbed,  a  cold-frame  or  two,  a  work-table  in  some 
convenient    place,    a    trowel,    wheel-barrow,    spade, 
pitchfork,  rake,  hoe,   a  few  yards  of  stout  cord,  a 
hatchet  to   sharpen   stakes,   a  watering-pot,    rubber 
sprinkler,  rubber  gloves,  a  good  supply  of  pots  and 
wire-netting,  and  a  couple  of  good  mole-traps  cover 
the  real  necessaries.    Incidentals,  such  as  wire-sieves, 
lath-screens,  trellises,  and  the  like,  may  be  made  as 
they  are  required. 

One  should  not  have  more  tools  than  can  be  kept 
in  good  working  order. 

An  excellent  place   for  Begonias,  Gloxinias,  and 
other  shade-loving  plants  is  made  by  fitting  a  wide 

*45 


246  The  Flower  Garden       [Chapter 

shelf  under  a  north  or  east  window  on  the  outside, 
with  a  raised  edge  three  or  four  inches  high,  made 
by  tacking  strips  of  wood  across  the  front  and  ends. 
Inclose  with  window-netting,  first  nailing  strips  of 
wood  from  the  outer  corners  of  the  shelf  to  the  upper 
corners  of  the  window-casing  to  support  the  netting. 
When  the  shelf  is  filled  with  wet  sand,  and  the  plants 
plunged  in  it,  one  has  a  miniature  greenhouse  acces- 
sible from  the  room,  and  safe  from  trespass  of 
chickens,  cats,  or  careless  feet.  The  shelf  may  ex- 
tend considerably  beyond  the  window-casing  if  de- 
sired, and  be  made  attractive  from  the  outside  by 
climbing  vines.  The  Maurandya  is  fine  here,  as  it  will 
push  its  tips  through  the  netting,  and  be  very  orna- 
mental; the  Asparagus  tenuissimus  and  A.  plumosus 
nanus  are  also  good.  A  couple  of  plant-brackets 
fastened  to  the  outside  casing  will  afford  room  for 
drooping  plants,  and  add  to  the  attractiveness  of  the 
shelf.  Primroses  will  bloom  here  all  summer,  and 
Ferns,  Gloxinias,  and  fancy-leaved  Caladiums  find  a 
congenial  home. 

Insecticides 

A  GOOD  supply  of  insecticides  should  be  kept  in 
store,  or  at  least  the  formulas  and  materials 
for  preparing  them.     Plant  enemies  have  increased 
to  such  an  alarming  extent  in  the  past  few  years  that 
comparatively  few  flowers  are  free  from  them,  and 


Twenty-three]     ®tfo$  atltl   CttfcS 


H7 


some  kinds,  as  the  Rose,  Dahlia,  Aster,  Clematis,  and 
Cosmos,  are  becoming  more  and  more  difficult  to  raise. 
The  Rose,  especially,  is  in  need  of  constant  care  and 
watchfulness  from  the  swelling  of  the  leaf-bud  until 
the  end  of  the  growing  season.  One  of  its  most 
dreaded  fungous  diseases  is  known  as  "black  spot," 
which  must  be  given  thorough  treatment  in  the  begin- 
ning, before  the  leaves  start  in  the  spring  on  plants 
that  have  been  previously  affected.  Syringe  with 
Bordeaux  mixture  and  repeat  once  or  twice  a  week 
during  the  growing  season. 

Cosmos  Borer  is  very  destructive  to  the  Cosmos, 
Dahlia,  Asters,  and  Clematis;  the  preventive  is  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  Paris  green  to  three  gallons  of  water, 
poured  around  the  base  of  the  plant,  using  sufficient 
to  wet  the  ground  three  or  four  inches  deep.  Begin 
when  the  plant  is  a  foot  high,  and  continue  until 
fully  grown. 

The  Black  Beetle  is  an  unpleasant  pest  that  has 
become  very  destructive  to  the  Asters,  eating  the  flow- 
ers, and  soon  destroying  an  entire  bed  if  not  promptly 
checked.  It  resembles  the  common  blister  beetle,  but 
is  smaller  and  jet  black  in  colour;  it  is  easily  killed 
by  knocking  off  into  a  pan  of  water  containing  a  little 
kerosene.  In  the  early  morning  it  is  very  sluggish, 
and  may  be  picked  off  and  killed,  or  the  plants  may 
be  showered  with  the  Paris-green  solution,  but  the 
appearance  of  the  first  bug  must  be  the  signal  for 
active  operations. 


248  The  Flower  Garden         [Chapter 

Plant  Louse  or  Green  Fly:  This  little  insect  com- 
monly infests  house-plants;  it  is  called  a  fly  because 
in  one  stage  of  its  existence  it  has  wings.  The  rem- 
edies are  tobacco  in  some  form,  or  sulpho-tobacco 
soap  syringed  on  the  foliage,  or  the  hot-water  bath. 

Black  or  Chrysanthemum  Lice  require  practically 
the  same  treatment.  Tobacco-dust  on  the  leaves  will 
usually  prevent  their  appearance,  and  should  be  ap- 
plied early  in  the  summer  and  after  every  rain. 

The  Mealy  Bug  is  a  little  whitish  mass,  like  cotton 
in  appearance,  often  found  on  house-plants  and  on  the 
Spiraeas.  Syringe  with  whale-oil  soap  solution;  or,  if 
the  plant  is  small,  work  over  it,  touching  each  bug  with 
a  brush  dipped  in  alcohol ;  or  use  the  hot-water  bath. 

Red  Spider  can  only  be  kept  at  bay  by  fresh  air 
and  the  plentiful  use  of  water;  spray  or  syringe  daily. 
Use  the  hot-water  bath  if  the  spiders  have  gotten  a 
foothold. 

Rose  Hopper,  or  Thrips — small  yellowish  insects 
on  the  under  side  of  Rose  leaves,  from  which  they 
suck  the  juice,  causing  them  to  turn  brown;  whale- 
oil  soap  syringed  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  is 
the  best  remedy. 

Rose  Slugs  are  small  green  caterpillars  that  feed 
on  the  Rose  leaves  and  buds,  lying  on  the  under  side 
of  the  leaves,  or  drawing  two  leaves  together  with  a 
slight  web.  Work  over  the  plants,  pinching  the  leaves 
between  thumb  and  finger,  or  syringe  with  whale-oil 
solution,  or  dust  with  powdered  hellebore  when  wet. 


Twenty-three]     <&8   atll         tllg  249 

Rose  Bug — a  small,  dark  bug  striped  with  light 
yellow,  which  is  very  destructive  to  the  Roses,  eating 
the  flowers.  Plants  may  be  syringed,  or  showered 
with  the  Paris-green  solution  at  night  or  early  in  the 
morning,  but  must  be  attended  to  promptly,  as  the 
bugs  are  very  destructive,  stripping  a  bed  of  its  flow- 
ers in  a  surprisingly  short  time.  Roses  treated  with 
Paris  green  should  always  be  plainly  and  conspic- 
uously labelled  to  that  effect. 

Earth-worms  and  the  like  may  be  easily  destroyed 
by  thoroughly  soaking  the  soil  in  the  pots  with  lime- 
water,  which  is  best  done  by  plunging  a  pot  to  the 
brim  (not  over)  in  the  solution,  and  removing  the 
worms  as  they  come  to  the  surface.  It  may  be  nec- 
essary to  repeat  this  once  or  twice. 

FORMULAS 

The  following  formulas  are  from  the  New  York 
Agricultural  Station  and  are  reliable: 

Normal,  or  1.6  per  cent.  Bordeaux  Mixture 

Copper  Sulphate  (blue  vitriol) 6  pounds 

Quicklime   (good  stone  lime) 4  pounds 

Water    50  gallons 

Dissolve  the  copper  sulphate  by  putting  it  in  a  bag 
of  coarse  cloth,  and  hanging  it  in  a  wooden  or  earthen 
vessel  containing  five  or  six  gallons  of  water.  After 
the  copper  sulphate  has  dissolved,  dilute  with  water 
to  twenty-five  gallons ;  slake  the  lime,  and  add  twenty- 


250  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

five  gallons  of  water;  mix  the  two,  and  keep  thor- 
oughly stirred  while  using.  If  the  mixture  is  to  be 
used  on  Carnations,  or  the  like,  it  will  adhere  better 
if  a  pound  of  hard  soap  be  dissolved  in  hot  water  and 
added. 

Kerosene  Emulsion 

Hard  Soap  . .  .  ; \  pound 

Boiling  Water i   gallon 

Kerosene 2  gallons 

Dissolve  the  soap  in  the  water;  add  the  kerosene, 
and  churn  with  a  spray  or  force-pump  until  they  unite 
and  have  the  appearance  and  consistency  of  butter- 
milk. Dilute  with  water  to  twenty-five  or  thirty 
gallons  before  applying. 

Pans-green  Solution 

Paris  green i   pound 

Water 50  gallons 

Keep  constantly  stirred  when  using. 

Hot-water  Bath 

The  hot-water  bath  will,  in  nearly  every  case,  take 
the  place  of  insecticides  and  give  better  results,  as  it 
thoroughly  cleanses  the  foliage  and  leaves  no  bad 
effects,  if  not  too  hot.  Heat  to  140°  if  for  spraying, 
and  use  before  it  cools;  136°  if  the  plants  are  to  be 
dipped. 


Twenty-three]     QPQOQ   $110    CttDS  251 

Next  in  convenience  to  a  pair  of  rubber  gloves  for 
the  garden  are  the  duck  mittens  sold  for  household 
purposes.  All  sorts  of  garden  work  may  be  done  in 
these,  even  the  transplanting  of  quite  small  plants. 
They  have  also  the  advantage  of  being  very  cheap, 
or  they  may  be  manufactured  at  home.  Always  have 
an  extra  pair  on  hand.  Gardening  without  gloves  is 
ruinous  to  the  hands  and  a  needless  discomfort. 

For  watering  the  window-garden,  a  small  pot  with 
a  long  spout  that  will  go  between  the  plants  will  be 
a  great  convenience,  as  by  its  use  the  farthest  plants 
may  be  watered  without  disturbing  the  others.  This 
means  a  saving  of  time  on  busy  mornings,  and  insures 
against  neglect. 

The  life  of  the  gardener  who  raises  chickens  is  full 
of  perplexities.  Certainly  nothing  is  more  vexing 
and  discouraging  than  to  have  one's  plants  repeatedly 
scratched  out  of  the  ground  by  chickens.  With  net- 
ting so  cheap  there  is  no  good  reason  why  chickens,  or 
other  farm  stock,  should  have  the  range  of  the  yard. 

Nothing  is  more  filthy  or  conducive  to  disease  than 
the  presence  of  fowls  in  the  door-yard.  There  are 
few  house-yards  that  cannot  be  isolated  from  the  rest 
of  the  premises  by  a  judicious  use  of  wire-netting, 
and  where  the  conditions  call  for  it  this  should  be 
the  first  thing  done.  It  will  not  be  at  all  satisfactory 
to  surround  the  beds  with  netting,  which  is  incon- 
venient and  unsightly.  The  whole  yard,  or  at  least 
the  entire  garden,  should  be  inclosed,  using  netting 


252  The  Flower  Garden 

high  enough  to  turn  any  fowl,  say  at  least  five  feet; 
even  Plymouth  Rocks  will  take  a  four-foot  fence. 
For  Brown  Leghorns  six  feet  is  a  safer  height  than 
five  feet.  There  should  be  no  place  on  the  top  of 
the  fence  on  which  the  birds  can  alight.  At  the  bot- 
tom a  board  will  make  all  secure,  and  prevent  the 
chickens  digging  under;  and  it  will  be  better  if  set  a 
little  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  which  should 
be  made  hard  and  firm  around  it. 

Fences  may  be  made  attractive  with  vines  or  plants. 
Sweet-peas,  Nasturtiums,  Morning-glories,  Cobaea 
scandens,  Wild  Cucumbers,  the  Scarlet-fruited  Gourd, 
Roses,  Clematis  or  Honeysuckles  make  a  good  back- 
ground for  the  lawn  and  beds  of  bright  flowers. 


Chapter   TWENTY-FOUR 

Chapter  of  IBon'te 


DON'T  forget  to  air  the  hotbeds  on  warm, 
sunny  days,   and  to   protect  them  on 
cold  ones. 
Don't  forget  that  plants  need  room 
to  develop,  and  set  them  far  enough 
apart  to  make  this  possible. 

Don't  forget  to  water  the  window-boxes  every  day, 
and  to  keep  the  sand  in  the  sand-box  wet  all  the 
time. 

Don't  forget  to  go  over  the  Pansies  and  Sweet- 
peas  every  day,  and  remove  all  withered  flowers. 
Don't  let  them  suffer  for  want  of  water  at  any  period 
of  their  bloom. 

Don't  try  to  raise  more  plants  than  you  have  room 
for,  or  strength  and  time  to  cultivate.  A  few  plants 
well  cared  for  are  better  than  a  neglected  garden  — 
a  most  discouraging  sight.  The  gardener  will  find 
enough  real  difficulty  without  inviting  disaster. 

Don't  try  to  follow  all  the  advice  that  is  offered 
you;  make  up  your  mind  what  you  want  to  do  and 
go  steadily  ahead.  If  you  fail  you  will  know  how, 


254  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

and  why,  which  is  in  itself  a  distinct  gain.  It  is  a 
good  rule  never  to  take  the  advice  of  an  unsuccessful 
person,  no  matter  how  reasonable  it  sounds.  Distrust 
garrulous  advice;  the  gardener  with  real  knowledge 
is  not  inclined  to  force  advice  upon  others. 

Don't  be  cast  down  by  adverse  criticism  unless 
your  judgment  tells  you  it  is  deserved.  The  person 
who  "knows  it  all"  is  never  so  much  at  home  as  in 
some  one  else's  flower-garden,  where  the  principal 
labour  may  be  done  with  the  tongue. 

Don't  be  wheedled  into  spoiling  your  plants  by 
saving  seed  for  one  who  is  perfectly  able  to  buy;  in- 
stead, give  the  address  of  the  dealer  from  whom  you 
purchased,  and  suggest  that  he  will  be  glad  to  fill 
orders.  Don't  rob  your  plant  of  cuttings  that  are 
necessary  to  its  symmetry;  this,  too,  is  a  case  for  the 
florist.  There  are  people  who  seem  to  feel  it  an  in- 
justice for  any  one  to  possess  a  plant  with  more  than 
one  branch  so  long  as  they  are  not  supplied  with  that 
particular  variety. 

Don't,  when  you  have  purchased  a  dozen  Violets 
or  Primulas,  meaning  to  divide  them  after  awhile  to 
make  the  border  you  did  not  feel  like  purchasing  out- 
right, be  imposed  upon  to  the  extent  of  giving  half 
of  them  away  to  some  one  who  has  been  waiting  for 
this  very  opportunity.  The  experienced  gardener 
learns  to  steer  such  people  away  from  plants  she  does 
not  wish  to  part  with,  or  have  mutilated,  but  the 
amateur  is  looked  upon  as  legitimate  prey.  I  have 


Twenty- four]  OtlS  255 

frequently  known  people  to  break  a  branch  from 
plants  they  were  handling,  with  the  expectation  of 
being  told  to  keep  it.  The  remedy  for  this  sort  of 
thing  is  to  immediately  place  it  in  the  ground  with 
some  remark  about  having  a  place  for  it. 

Don't  supply  with  cut  flowers,  plants,  and  the  like, 
people  who  spend  more  money  for  unnecessary  lux- 
uries than  you  do  for  your  whole  garden,  and  then 
tell  you  how  foolish  you  are  to  spend  so  much  time  and 
money,  and  work  so  hard  for  your  flowers.  Don't 
be  too  deeply  impressed  with  the  sudden  friendship 
at  gardening  time  of  the  woman  who  has  managed 
to  get  along  without  your  society  all  winter.  Don't 
be  imposed  upon  by  the  chronic  plant-beggar,  but 
suggest  to  her  that  you  will  be  glad  to  lend  your  cat- 
alogues; that  in  them  she  will  find,  at  reasonable 
prices,  all  the  things  you  have  in  your  garden;  and 
that  the  florist  will  doubtless  be  glad  of  her  patronage. 

Don't,  on  the  other  hand,  be  lacking  in  generosity 
of  the  right  sort.  Flowers  may  be  given  to  rich  and 
poor  alike,  and  carry  no  hint  of  obligation,  or  unfit- 
ness.  To  the  tired  worker  who  has  neither  time  nor 
space  to  cultivate  them,  a  handful  of  flowers,  or  a 
potted  plant,  which  can  be  spared  from  your  abun- 
dance, will  make  a  bit  of  sunshine  well  worth  the 
trouble.  For  many  who  cannot  spare  the  trifling 
amount  a  single  plant  or  packet  of  seed  would  cost, 
the  surplus  plants  from  flats  or  hotbeds  will  be  a 
great  pleasure,  and  one  should  not  wait  for  re- 


256  The  Flower  Garden        [Chapter 

quests.  Those  who  really  cannot  afford  these  things 
are  rarely  guilty  of  the  petty  meanness  of  the  pro- 
fessional plant-beggars.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  jot 
down,  from  time  to  time  as  they  occur,  the  names  of 
those  you  would  like  to  benefit  in  this  way,  and  then, 
when  you  have  surplus  plants,  send  word  of  that 
fact,  and  of  the  time  when  it  will  be  convenient  to 
take  them  up.  This  will  be  better  than  sending  the 
plants,  which  might  arrive  when  it  would  be  incon- 
venient or  impossible  to  attend  to  them. 

There  are  so  many  ways  of  giving  pleasure  with 
flowers  that  one  need  never  be  embarrassed  with  a 
surplus:  the  sick;  the  young  girl  who  will  enjoy 
them  for  her  party ;  the  young  matron,  for  her  prettty 
luncheon;  the  church  service,  the  humble  funeral, 
where  the  choicest  and  best  should  go.  A  beautiful 
tact  may  be  shown  by  a  choice  in  harmony  with  the 
taste  of  the  recipient  and  the  occasion  for  which  they 
are  intended.  Do  not  send  all  white  flowers,  or 
flowers  with  a  heavy  perfume,  to  the  sick-room. 
Bright  flowers  are  better.  Notice  the  cheer  in  a  pot 
of  golden  Daffodils  or  a  bunch  of  Hepaticas.  A 
charming  thing  is  a  handful  of  Japanese  Morning- 
glory  buds  picked  and  sent  the  night  before,  that  the 
invalid  may  watch  their  unfolding  in  the  morning. 
I  have  known  these  to  give  the  greatest  pleasure. 

Don't  be  too  greatly  cast  down  by  failures;  they 
have  their  uses.  One  failure,  if  it  sets  you  to  study- 
ing out  the  cause  and  remedy,  is  worth  a  dozen  hap- 


Twenty-four] 


hazard  successes.  We  grow  plants  with  even  success 
for  some  time,  then,  without  any  recognised  change 
in  the  treatment,  we  meet  with  failure.  We  look  for 
the  reason,  and  our  education  is  begun.  When  we 
have  found  the  cause  of  failure,  we  have  made  a  long 
step  forward. 

Don't  fail  to  take  some  good  floral  magazines,  they 
are  helpful  in  many  ways,  and  keep  you  in  touch  with 
what  other  workers  are  doing. 

Don't  try  to  work  in  unsuitable  clothing.     Easy, 
broad,   solid  shoes  —  not   any  old   run-down  pair  — 
should  be  considered  as  essential  as  a  spade,  or  rake, 
and  skirts  that  clear  the  instep,  and  hang  comfortably. 
Waists  with  easy  arm-holes  and  collar  will  enable  one  ; 
to  work  with  a  degree  of  comfort  that  means  the  ac- 
complishment  of  an  amount  of  work  in  a  morning 
quite    impossible    were    one    less    comfortably    clad.  < 
Skirts  of  blue  denim,  made  Princess  style,  and  ankle 
length,   with    comfortable   shirt-waists  —  denim   for  j 
cool    days,    calico    for   warm  —  make    a   thoroughly  ; 
comfortable  outfit. 


THE    END 


Abobra  viridif  lora,  fancy  gourd, 

96. 
AbutUons,  63,  64,  92. 

Diversity  of  form  and  colour  of 
New  California,  64. 

Time  for  flowering,  63. 
Achimenes,  60. 

Cuttings  of,  how  to  root,  60. 
Aconite,  Winter,  191. 
Adverse  criticism,  hints  about, 

254- 

Advice,  hints  about,  253. 
Adlumia  (Mountain   Fringe, 

Climbing  Fumitory,  Allegheny 

Vine),  46,  92,  129. 
Appropriate  for  use  at  funerals, 

129. 
Delightful  grown  on  north  side 

of  house,  129. 
Gathering  seed  from,  46. 
Sowing  seeds  and  planting,  129. 
Ageratum, Cope's  Favourite,  119. 

Tom  Thumb,  16. 
Ageratums,  16,  34,  35,  46,  81, 

88,  91,  92,  94,  96,  101,  119, 

121. 
Dwarf  variety  admirably  adapted 

for  carpet  bedding,  119. 
How  to  sow,  35. 
Indispensable  for  edgings,  win- 
dow-boxes and  vases,  101. 
Little  Dorrit  and  Swanley  Blue, 

102. 

Princess  Caroline,  102. 
Season  for  sowing,  102. 
Should  be  clipped  frequently,  47. 


Ageratums — Continued. 

Tom  Thumb,  useful  for  edgings, 

101. 

Air-tight  covers,  should  never 
be  used  to  protect  plants,  205. 
Alba  plena  Narcissi,  191. 
Alba  superbissima  Hyacinth, 

192. 

Allegheny  Vine,  129. 
Allemannia  Cannas,  15. 
A 1  Hums,  care  and  treatment  of, 

194. 

Altheas,  201,  202,  206. 
Alyssum.     See  Sweet  Alyssum. 
Amaryllis,  75,  155,  162-165. 
Evergreen,  162. 
General  treatment   of,    same  as 

for  Crinums,  162. 
Johnsonii,  163. 

American  Beauty  Rose,  178. 
Ammonia,  a  stimulant  for  flow- 
ers, 25. 

Ampelopsis,  128,  207. 
Anchusa  capensis,  119. 
Anemones,  192,  193. 

Treatment  and  raising  of,  193. 
Annuals,  various,  from  seed,  98- 

iii. 
Hardy    and    tender,     time    for 

planting,  53. 

Should  not  be  grown  in  window- 
boxes,  96. 

Annunciation  Lily,  205. 
Anthony    Waterer,  crimson 

Spiraea,  197. 
Antirrhinums      (Snapdragons), 

46,  91.  93.  96»  98»  99- 
Firefly,  98. 


259 


260 


The  Flower  Garden 


Antirrhinums — Continued. 
Giant   Crimson,    Giant  Yellow, 

Giant  White  and  Niobe,  98. 
How  to  protect  in  winter,  99. 
Queen  of  the  North,  98. 
Seed  of,  46. 
Soil  suitable  for,  99. 
Transplanting,  98. 
Useful  for  cut  flowers,  window- 
boxes  and  vases,  98. 
When  to  start  seed,  98. 
Ants,  nests  of,  in  the  Lily  bulb, 

remedy  for,  181. 

Aphides,  or  green  plant-lice,  pre- 
vention and  remedy  for,  70. 
April,    shrubs    and    plants    that 

bloom  in,  234. 
Aquatic  Plants,  165-172. 
Aquilegia.     See  Columbine. 
Arrangement  of  flower-beds, 

10. 

Arundo    Donax,   ornamental 

grass,  5,  1 6. 
Ashes,  a  good  fertiliser  to  sweeten 

the  soil,  25. 

Should  not  be  mixed  with  ma- 
nure, 25. 

Asparagus,  49,  64,  88,  94,  246. 
All  kinds  benefited  by  frequent 

repotting,  64,  65. 
Benefited  by  use  of  good  fertil- 
iser, 215. 

How  to  raise  and  manage,  65. 
Asparagus  plumosus  nanus, 

246. 

Proper  time  for  planting,  64. 
Asparagus  Sprengeri,  how  to 

sow,  49,  50. 
Successfully  grown  in  baskets  or 

pots,  65. 
Unmanageable  without  fertiliser, 

216. 

Asparagus  tenuissimus,  246. 
Asters,  10,  25,  34,  43,  53,  99. 
A  necessity  of  the  fall  garden,  99. 
Aim  of  the  specialist,  99. 
Arranging  for  vases,  100. 


Asters — Continued. 

Bees  do  not  care  for,  43. 
Black  beetle  an  unpleasant  pest 

to,  247. 
Bride,  99. 
Chrysanthemum  flowered,  99, 

100. 

Cosmos  borer  destructive  to,  247. 
Early    planting     recommended, 

100. 
Frequent     watering    necessary, 

101. 

Giant  White  Comet,  99. 
Japanese  Tassel,  97. 
Kerosene  for  killing  insects  on, 

100. 

Ostrich  Feather,  99. 
Paris-green  in  the  watering-pot 

for  killing  beetles,  100. 
Peony,  99. 
Perfection,  99. 

Proper  place  for  planting,  10. 
Transplanting,  101. 
Use  of  seed  of,  43. 
When  to  plant  seed,  100. 
Aster-beds,  ashes  for  fertilising, 

25- 

Atmospheric  moisture,  main- 
taining a  fair  degree  of,  209. 

August,  shrubs  and  plants  that 
bloom  in,  240-242. 

Auratum  Lily,  growth  of  the, 
on  wooded  hillsides,  184. 

Aurea  Bambusa,  171. 

Aurora  Pansy,  116. 

B 

Bacon    rind,   for  keeping  moles 

from  Iris  roots,  200. 
Balsams,  47,  102,  103. 

Benefited  by  transplanting,  102. 

Camellia-flowered  varieties  best, 

102. 

Double  white  and  shell  pink, 
valuable  for  decorative  work, 
103. 


261 


Balsams — Continued. 

Plenty    of    room    required    for 
branching,  102. 

Starting  the  seed,  102. 

Transplanting,  102. 
Bamboo,  171. 

Requires  abundant  water-supply, 
171. 

Varieties  of,  171. 
Bambusa  Arundinacea,  171. 

Aurea,  171. 

Metake,  171. 
Banana  plants,  145. 

Caring  for,  in  winter,  145. 

Grow  more  ornamental  indoors, 

145- 
Planted  in  tubs  or  open  ground, 

145- 

Plants  should  be  grown  by  them- 
selves, 145. 

Showy  and  attractive,  145. 

Soil  and  water  for,  145. 

Southeast  angle  of   building  an 
ideal  location  for,  145. 

Storing  in  cellar  during  winter, 

146. 

Baroness    Van     Thuyl   Hya- 
cinth, 192. 

Baskets,  hanging.     See  Hang- 
ing-Baskets. 
Beetles,    black.      See   Black 

beetles. 
Begonia  cuttings,  how  to  root, 

60. 
Begonia,  Dwarf  Bijou,  66. 

Erfordii,  66. 

Rex,  how  to  plant  and  raise,  66. 

Vernon,  66. 

Vulcan,  when  to  plant,  66. 
Begonias,  39,  48,  58,  60,  66,  67, 
88,  92-94,  97,  117,  150,  245. 

An  excellent  place  for,  245,  246. 

Injured     by   use    of    fertilisers, 
216. 

Setting  out,  and  storing  during 
winter,  67,  68. 

The  best  varieties  of,  66. 


Bego  n  ias —  Con  tin  ued. 

The  finest  flower  for  bedding  or 

pot  culture,  67. 
Begonias,  tuberous- 
Bedding  out,  150. 
Instructions    for  planting,   bed- 
ding and  setting  out,  67. 
Proper  temperature  for  growing, 

ISO- 
Shading  from  the  heat,  151. 
Starting  and  potting,  150. 
Bermuda    Oxalis,     should,   be 

grown     in     hanging-baskets, 

195- 
Bignonia  Radicans    (Trumpet 

Vine)— 
Best  method   of  supporting  it, 

140. 

Blooms  nearly  all  summer,  139. 
Desirable  as  a  climber,  140. 
Grown  as  a  lawn  shrub,  140. 
Hedges    of,     should     be    kept 

pruned        for        symmetrical 

growth,  139. 

Most  desirable  for  hedges,  139. 
Not     appreciated      sufficiently, 

139. 

Black  Beauty  Cannas,  15. 
Black  beetles,  a  pest  to  Asters, 

247- 

How  to  destroy,  100. 
Black  lice,  remedy  for,  248. 
••  Black  spot,*'  fungous  disease 

of  the  Rose,  247. 
Black-eyed  Susan,  136. 
Blood,  from   slaughter-houses,  a 

good  fertiliser,  28. 
Blooming  season  of  various 

trees,    shrubs,    and    plants, 

234-244. 
Boards  for  siding  in  making 

flower-beds,  8. 
Bone-meal,  a  substitute  for,  27. 

As  a  fertiliser,  28. 
Bonfire  Sal  via,  121. 
Bordeaux  mixture,  for  fungoid 

disease  in  Pansies,  115. 


262 


The  Flower  Garden 


Bordeaux  mixture—  Continued. 
As  an  insecticide,  244. 
P'ormula  for,  249. 
Borders,    exquisite    flowers    for, 

197,  198. 
Borers,  destroying   chrysalis  of, 

203. 

Bougainvillea,  209. 
Bouquet,  an  ideal,  103. 
Bracket     plants,    Thunbergias 

valuable  for,  in  winter,  136. 
Brackets,   use   of,   increases   ca- 
pacity of  window,  208,  209. 
Bride  Aster,  99. 
Bride  Rose,  178. 
Bruant  Geranium,  for  south  and 

west  window-boxes,  91. 
Bryonopsis,  96,  132. 
Bulbous  and  tuberous-rooted 

plants,  147. 

Bulbs,  for  the  amateur,  192. 
For  winter  blooming,  192. 
Hardy   in   Middle   States,    may 
not  be  so  in  Northern  States, 
191,  192. 

Hints  on  potting  outdoors,  194. 
Late  fall  or  winter  planting  of, 
preferable  to  spring  planting, 
1 88. 

Of  hardy  plants,  caring  and  pre- 
serving, 195. 
Burbank  Cannas,  15. 
Burpee's  Defiance  Petunia,  84. 
Buying  seeds,  41-47. 


Cabbage-worm,  how  to  destroy, 

204. 

Caladium     esculentum     (Ele- 
phant's Ears),  149. 
An  ideal  plant  for  the  amateur, 

149. 
Native    of    Sandwich    Islands, 

149. 
Root  of,  edible,  149. 


Caladium    esculentum  —  Con- 
tinued. 
Roots  should  be  started  in  pots, 

149- 

Winter  easily  and  multiply  rap- 
idly, 150. 

Caladiums,  5,  15,  18,  22,  88,  89, 
93,  149,  150,  151,  185,  186, 
246. 

Beds  of,  5. 

Proper  soil  for,  18. 
Caladiums,  fancy-leaved — 

Caring  for,  in  fall  and  winter,  151. 

Desirable  for  window-boxes  and 
for  porches,  151. 

Develop  their  colours  best  in  the 
shade,  151. 

Flourish  in  a  warm  atmosphere, 

I5I- 

Gorgeousness  of  colour  and  deli- 
cacy of  growth,  151. 
Calceolaria,  63,  68,  74. 

Handling   and  raising,   instruc- 
tions for,  68. 
Infinite  variety  of,  68. 
One  of  the  most  easily  cultivated 

house-plants,  68. 
Varieties  and  easy  cultivation  of, 

68. 

California  Sunflower,  197. 
Callus,  formation  of,  in  cuttings, 

61. 

Camphor  Geraniums,  91. 
Candidums,  182. 
Candytuft,  46. 

Cannas,  4,  5,  14,  15,  18,  22,  29, 
no,  121,  141,  142,  145,  147, 
148,  150,  185,  187. 
Allemannia,  15. 
Beds  of,  should  be  lower  than 

the  lawn,  142. 

Best  way  of  handling  roots,  147. 
Black  Beauty,  15. 
Burbank,  15. 
Care  of,  185-187. 
Chicago,  15. 
Florence  Vaughan,  15. 


alphabetical  f nliejr 


Cannas — Continued. 

French  and  orchid-flowered  va- 
rieties should  be  started  in  the 
house,  147. 

Frozen  portions  should  be  re- 
moved, 185. 

Grow  from  seeds  as  easily, 
cheaply,  and  as  soon  as  from 
bulbs,  141. 

Hints  for  planting  and  potting, 
142. 

Italia,  15. 

Most  convenient  place  for  start- 
ing bulbs,  148. 

Orchid-flowered  Cannas  difficult 
to  winter,  186. 

Papa,  15. 

Planting  in  baskets,  147. 

Proper  soil  for,  18. 

Queen  Charlotte,  15. 

Roots  to  be  saved  should  be  dried 
in  the  sun,  186. 

Seeds  should  be  filed  before 
planting,  141. 

Should  be  wintered  in  a  dry  cel- 
lar, 186. 

Storing  of  tubers,  186. 

Suitable  soil  for,  142. 

Time  for  sowing  seed,  142. 

Time  for  starting,  147. 
Canterbury-bells,    cold-frames 

useful  to  protect,  37. 
Carnation-frames,  72. 
Carnation  support,  an  easily 

made,  72. 

Carnations,  39,  40,  61,  70-72, 
76,  205,  250. 

Giant  of  California,  70. 

Growing  winter  plants,  72. 

How  to  perpetuate  any  variety, 

7i- 

Keeping  for  winter  blooming  and 

for  second  year,  Ji. 
Keeping  free  from  insects,  72, 

73-. 

Layerings  valuable  for,  61, 
Marguerite,  70. 


Car  natio  ns — Co  n  tin  ued. 

Methods  employed  by  florists  to 
produce  long-stemmed  vari- 
eties, 71. 

Most  easily  grown  of  all  house- 
plants,  70. 

Planting  and  varieties  of,  70. 
Castor-oil  Bean,  144.     See  Ri- 

cinus. 

Centrosema  (Butterfly  Pea),  130. 
Beautiful  plant  when  in  bloom, 

131-. 
Charming  vine  for  north  or  east 

window,  94. 
Hard  to   propagate   from   seed, 

130. 

Slender  growth  but  hardy,  132. 
Transplanting  and  watering,  131. 
Treatment  of  seeds  before  sow- 
ing, 130,  131. 
Chalcedonica   Lychnis,  hardy 

white  flower,  198. 
Chameleon  Nasturtium,  in. 
Charcoal  for  preserving  As- 
ters, 100. 

Chicago  Cannas,  15. 
Chicken  fences,  how  to  make, 

251,  252. 
Chicken  netting,  for  use  in  the 

hotbed,  37. 

Chickens  should  not  be  al- 
lowed in  the  garden,  251. 
Chionodoxa,  191. 
Christ  and  the  Apostles.    See 

Crinum  Scabrum. 
Chrysanthemum  F 1  o  we  r  e  d 

Aster,  99. 
Chrysanthemum  lice,  remedy 

for,  248. 
Chrysanthemums,  126. 

Keeping  free  from  insects,  127- 
Planting  out  and  cultivating,  126. 
Potting  and  boxing,  127. 
Treatment  of  branches,  126. 
Cigar-boxes,  convenient  for  rais- 
ing fine  seeds  in,  48. 
Cinder  walks,  construction  of,  9. 


264 


The  Flower  Garden 


Cinerarias,  48,  58,  62,  63,  69, 

143,  208. 
Care  in  raising  in  summer  and 

winter,  69. 

Colours  and  varieties  of,  69. 
Treatment    of,     for    preserving 

through  winter,  69,  70. 
Clara  Bedman  Sal  via,  121. 
Clematis    (Virgin's    Bower),    65, 

I37-I39»  203,  252. 
Caring  for  and  protecting  in  win- 
ter, 138. 
Cosmos    borer     destructive    to, 

247. 

Flammula,  138,  198. 
Jackmanni,  138. 
Leaves  protect  roots  in  winter, 

207. 

Mrs.  Edward  Andre,  138. 
Most   expensive  vines    to   buy, 

137- 

Paniculata,  138. 
Planting  and  raising,  137. 
Potting,  137. 
Raising  from  seed  cheapest  way 

of  obtaining  them,  137. 
Ramona,  138. 
Trimming  plants,  139. 
Clothing,  suitable,  necessary  for 
comfort   for  working  in    the 
garden,  257. 
Clover-root,  65. 
Coal-ash  walks,  construction  of, 

9- 

Cobaea  San  Salvador,  130. 
Admirable  for  covering  old  trees, 

130. 

Cling  to  stone  and  brick,  130. 
Foliage  of,  130. 
Manner  of  growth,  130. 
Starting  seed,  130. 
Cobaea  scandens  (Cup-and-Sau- 

cer  Vine),  129. 
Desirable  summer  vine,  129. 
Height  and  bloom  of,  129. 
Position  of,  in  the  hotbed,  35. 
Coccinea  Hibiscus,  108. 


Coccinea  Indica,  foliaged  fancy 

gourd,  96. 

Coix  lachryma,  16. 
Cold-frame,  the,  37,  38. 
Drainage  of,  in  winter,  38. 
For  growing  Gloxinias  and  root- 
ing cuttings,  37. 
For  sowing  Pansy- seed,  37. 
How  made,  37. 
Protection  of,  at  night,  38. 
Useful  to  protect  beds  of  tender 

perennials,  37. 
Coleus,  4,  5,  15,  46,  58,  59,  89, 

92,  142,  143,  151- 
Cuttings,  treatment  of,  59. 
Indispensable  in  ornamental  bed- 
ding, 142. 

Must  not  bloom,  46. 
Period  of  germination,  143. 
Pinching  and  watering,  143. 
Raised  from  seed,  142. 
Sensitive  to  cold,  143. 
Suitable  soil  for,  143. 
Colours,  harmony  of,  in  flower- 
beds, ii. 
Columbine,  104,  105. 

Time  for  sowing  seed,  104. 
Transplanting,  104. 
Common  names  of  flowers, 

217-233. 
Compost,    composition    of    fine 

and  rough,  51. 

Compost  heap,  use  for,  203. 
Cope's  Favourite  Ageratum, 

119. 
Corn  Fodder,  winter  protection 

for  flowers,  206. 
Cosmos,  44,  103,  203. 

Cut  flowers  of,  popularity  of,  103. 

Early   flowering    varieties    only 

should  be  grown  in  the  North, 

103. 

Excellent  way  of  growing  them, 

104. 
Fresh  seed  necessary  every  other 

year,  104. 
How  to  advance  their  bloom,  103 


f titie? 


Cosmos —  Continued. 

Make  ideal  bouquets,  103. 

Popularity  of,  103. 

Position  of,  in  the  hotbed,  35. 
Cosmos    borer,    preventive    of, 

247. 

Cow    manure,  best  for  the  ma- 
jority of  plants,  23. 
Crinutns,  155-162. 

Americana,  161. 

Blooming,  time  required  for,  157. 

Capense,  1 60. 

Easily  grown,  155. 

Erubescens,  1 60. 

Expensive  luxuries,  159. 

Fimbriatum,  161. 

Grandolia  or  Augustum,  161. 

Kirkii,  159. 

Kunthianum,   159,  162. 

Lack  of  knowledge  as  to  habits 
of,  by  florists,  155. 

Moorei,  160. 

Must  be  protected  from   heavy 
rain,  159. 

Ornatum,  159- 

Pedunculatum,  161. 

Potting  of  the  dry  bulbs,  156. 

Root-growth  of,  156. 

Scabrum,  1 60. 

Secret  of  culture  of,  158. 

Soil  required  for,  156. 

Treatment  of  bulb  before  growth, 

157- 
Water,    amount    of,    necessary, 

158. 

Wintering  of,  159. 
Criticism,   adverse,    hints  about, 

254. 
Crocus,  189,  192,  193. 

A  pretty  way  to  grow  them,  190. 
Seed  formation  of,  189. 
Crotons,  39,  89,  92,  151. 

Best   position  for,   in  the  sand- 
box, 39. 

Crown  Imperials,  191. 
Cucumber,    Wild,    90-96,    132, 
252. 


Cup=-and=Saucer  Vine,  129. 
Cut  flowers,  judgment  should  be 

used  in  giving  away,  247. 
Cuttings,  of  common  house 

plants,  directions  for  handling, 

58. 

How  to  save  those  liable  to  de- 
cay, 61. 

Lists  for  selection  of,  58. 
Cutworms,  destruction  of,  203. 
Cyclamen,  42,  74,  75. 

Bush  Hill  Pioneer,  cost  of  seed 
of,  42. 

Protecting  from  moisture  and  re- 
potting, 75. 

Starting,  raising,  and  setting  out, 

74- 

Treatment  of,  in  the  spring,  75. 

Cyclamen  Amaryllis,  must  not 

be  allowed  to  dry  out  entirely, 

75- 
Cyperus,  or  Umbrella-plant,  60, 

73,  74,  1 68. 
Growing  from  seed  an  economy, 

73- 

Growing  in  jardinieres,  73. 
How  to  sow  the  seeds,  73. 
Raising  from  cuttings,  73. 
Semi-aquatic  qualities  of,  73. 
Two  varieties  of,  74- 
Cypripedium  Acaule.    See  Jap- 
anese Iris. 
Czar  Peter,  blue  Hyacinth,  192. 


D 

Daffodils,  256. 

Dahlias,  27,  105,  148,  149,  186, 
187,  204. 

Best  started  in  baskets  of  sand, 
148. 

Borer,  how  to  destroy,  1 06. 

Care  and  protection  of,   for  ex- 
hibition purposes,  106. 

Cosmos  borer  destructive  to,  247, 

Easily  raised  from  seed,  105. 


266 


The  Flower  Garden 


Dahlias — Continued. 
Easily  wintered,  187. 
For  corsage  wear,  single  varieties 

best,  1 06,  107. 
Hints  on  grafting,  148,  149. 
Planting  the  seed,  105. 
Should  be  wintered  in  a  dry  cel- 
lar, 1 86. 
Transplanting,     and     treatment 

after,  105. 
Variety  desirable  for  cut  flowers 

and  garden  rows,  106. 
Worms  or  beetles   on,   how  to 

destroy,  106. 
Daisies,  107. 

Beds,  suitable  for  borders  of,  107. 
Protection  of,  in  winter,  107. 
Rockwork,  colours  suitable  for, 

107. 

Starting  the  seeds,  107. 
Day  Lily,  201. 
Deutzia  Gracilis,  198. 
Diagrams  for  planning  a  gar- 
den, 11-14. 

Dog-tooth  Violets,  191. 
Dolichos,  where  to  place  in  the 

hotbed,  35. 

Don'tS,  a  chapter  of,  253-257. 
Drainage,    good,    necessary    for 
rendering  soil  light  and  sandy, 

J7- 
Duck  mittens,  for  garden  work, 

250. 

Dusty-miller,border  plants  of,  8. 
Dwarf  Bijou  Begonia,  66. 


Earth  worms,  how  to  destroy, 
249. 

Eastern  exposure,  combination 
of  flowers  suitable  for  window- 
boxes,  92,  93. 

Edgings,  plants  used  for,  10. 

Egyptian  Lotus,  interesting  pe- 
culiarity of  leaves  of,  168, 


Egyptian  Lotus—  Continued. 
Suitable   for   growing   in    small 
ponds,  168. 

Eight-foot  flower-beds,  16. 

Elephant's  Ears,  149. 

Emperor  and   Empress  Nar- 
cissus, 191,  192. 

English    names    of    flowers, 
217-233. 

Erfordii  Begonia,  66. 

Erianthus  Ravenna?,  ornament- 
al grass,  5,  1 6. 

EschscholtZias,  as  a  border  for 
Pansy-beds,  118. 

Eulalia  univittata,  5,  16. 

Evergreen  Amaryllis,  162. 


Farfugium,  94. 

Feathers,  as  fertiliser  for  shrubs 
and  hardy  perennials,  28. 

Fences,  how  to  make  attractive, 
252. 

Ferns,  23,  88,  94,  246. 

Fertiliser    for   house-plants, 

2I5- 
Fertilisers,  23-29. 

Injurious  to  Begonias,  217. 
Necessary  for  Asparagus  Spren- 

geri,  216. 
Next  in  importance  to   a   good 

soil,  23. 
Filipendula,  herbaceous  Spiraea, 

197. 

Firefly  Antirrhinum,  for  bed- 
ding, 98. 

Flame  Lily,  183. 
Flats,    or   boxes,   treatment    of 

young  plants  in,  50. 
Floral    magazines,    helpful    in 

many    ways    to   the   amateur 

gardener,  257. 

Florence  Vaughan  Canna,  15. 
Florists'  sashes  for  hot-beds, 

32, 


&lpimbettcal  f nfcej: 


267 


Floss  Flower.     See  Ageratum. 
Flower-beds,      arranging     and 

marking  off,  6. 
General   effect   of   growing   one 

kind  of  flower  in,  10. 
Instructions  for  laying  out,  14. 
Instructions    for    making    solid 

beds  of  one  flower,  53. 
Water-supply  for,  5. 
Width  of,  7. 
Flower-pots,  must  not  be  filled 

to  the  brim  with  earth,  210. 
Flowering  Maples,  63. 
Flowers,   common   and   English 

names  of,  217-233. 
Many  ways   of   giving   pleasure 

with,  256. 
Necessary     for     a     twelve-foot 

foliage -bed,  14. 
Occasionally  appearing  in  two  or 

more  sections,  232,  233. 
Selecting,  for  the  sick-room,  256. 
Foliage-bed,    how    to    make    a 

twelve-foot,  14. 
Beds  facing  south  warmer  than 

others,  188. 
Design  of,  12,  13. 
Ideal  bed  for  early  bulbs,  188. 
Manuring  and  fertilising,  187. 
Soil  of,  should  have  good  natural 

drainage,  187. 
Foliage  plants,  ornamental,  from 

seed,  141-146. 
Formulas,  for  Bordeaux  Mixture, 

249. 

For  house-plant  fertiliser,  215. 
For  insecticides,  249. 
For  kerosene  emulsion,  250. 
For  Paris-green  solution,  250. 
Foxgloves,  in  the  cold-frame,  37. 
Freesia,  40,  192,  194. 

Hints  on  caring  for  and  raising, 

194. 
Freezing  of  soil  in  pots,  no 

harm  to  plants  or  bulbs,  214. 
French  Lilacs,  201. 
Blooming  season  of,  201. 


French  Lilacs — Continued. 
Planting  of,  201. 
Useful  as  backgrounds,  201. 
Fresh -air,  how  it  should  be  sup- 
plied, 213. 

In  the  living  room  necessary  to 
keep  insects  from  plants,  215. 
Fritillarias,  191. 
Frosted   plants,   treatment  for, 

214. 
Frozen  plants,  how  to  thaw  out, 

213. 

How  to  treat,  213. 
Fuchsias,  58,  88,  91,  93,  94. 
Fumitory,  Climbing,  129. 
Funkia  (Plantain    Lily),    or   Day 

Lily,  20 1. 

Impatient  of  disturbance,  201. 
Needs  protection  in  winter,  201. 
Suitable  soil  for,  201. 


Garden,  the  location  and  ar- 
rangement of,  3-16. 

Beds,  laying  out  the,  13,  14. 

Best  position  for  the  garden,  3. 

Fall  clearing  of  the,  203. 

Flower-beds,  elevated,  5. 

Flower-beds,  selection  of  flowers 
for,  10. 

Foliage  beds  for  lawns,  diagram 
of,  10,  12,  14,  15. 

How  to  prepare  the  flower- 
garden,  8. 

Lawns,  arrangement  of,  4. 

Ornamental  grasses,  beds  of,  16. 

Ornamental  plants  for  beds,  4. 

Parti-coloured  flower-beds,  ar- 
rangement of,  ii. 

Rose-garden,  design  for,  12. 

Scheme  for  permanent  garden, 
6. 

Shrubbery,  planning  a,  12. 

South  slope,  ideal  situation  for 
garden,  3. 


268 


The  Flower  Garden 


Garden — Continued. 

Walks,   arrangement  and   treat- 
ment of,  9. 

Garden  Spiraea,  197. 

Garden-walks,  marking  off  and 
measuring,  6. 

Gardener,  amateur,  advice  to  the, 
20. 

Geranium  seeds,  irregularity  of 

growth,  78. 
Geraniums,  39,  58,  59,  62,  76-78, 

89-92,  94,  192. 
Bruant,  91. 
Camphor,  91. 
Choice    varieties    produced    by 

seeds  from  hybridised  flowers, 

76. 
Developing     of,    a    fascinating 

study,  76. 
Easy  to  raise,  76. 
Flourish  best  in  the  sun,  211. 
Hints  on  growing,  78. 
In  the  sand-box,  39. 
Ivy,  78. 

Lady  Washington,  76. 
Most    satisfactory   for   south   or 

west  window-boxes,  91. 
Pelargonium,  77. 
Should  be  grown  close  to  glass, 

Souvenir    de    Charles    Turner, 

01. 

When  to  sow  seed,  76. 
Zonale,  77. 
German  Iris,  colour  effects  of, 

198,  109. 
Germination  ol  seeds,  time  for, 

228-232. 
Giant  Gassier  Pansy,  116. 

Cost  of  seed  of,  41. 
Giant  Crimson  Antirrhinum, 

for  bedding,  98. 
Giant  of  California  Carnation, 

how   to  raise,    pot    out,    and 

cultivate,  70. 
Giant  of  California  Petunia, 

84. 


Giant  Trimardeau  Pansy,  216. 

Cost  of  seed  of,  41. 
Giant  Welshman    Narcissus, 

192. 
Giant  White  Antirrhinum,  91, 

98. 
Giant   White    Comet    Aster, 

99. 
Giant    Yellow    Antirrhinum, 

for  bedding,  98. 
Giant  Yellow  Hibiscus,  108. 
Gladioli,     keep    well     in    winter 

stored  in  flour-sacks,  187. 
Gladiolus,  10,  22,  25,  152,  187. 
Bulbs  should  be  planted  deeply, 

152. 

Childsi,  152. 

Fall  and  winter  care  of,  152,  153. 
Plints  on  planting,  152. 
Improvement  in  culture  of,  152. 
Rapid  increase  of,  152. 
Reasons  for  planting  deeply,  152. 
Require  frequent  cultivation,  152. 
Should   be   planted   in   the   full 

sunshine,  10. 

Gladiolus-beds,  ashes  for  fertil- 
ising, 25. 

Glazing     and     painting     old 
window  sashes  for  hot- 
beds, 32. 
Glechoma,  suitable  for  the  north 

side  of  house,  91,  92. 
Glory  of  the  Snow,  191. 
Gloves,  gardening  without,  ruin- 
ous to  hands,  251. 
Gloxinia-cuttings,  treatment  of, 

60. 
Gloxinias,  37,  39,  48,  58,  60-62, 

78,  79,  151,  245,  246. 
An  excellent  place  for,  245,  246. 
Caring  for  the  bulbs,  79. 
High  temperature    required   for 

growing,  151. 
Hints  on  potting,  79. 
How  seeds  are  sown,  78. 
How  to  start  the  plants,  151. 
In  the  cold-frame,  37. 


&l$)afoettcal  f tifcej: 


Gloxinias — Continued. 
Keeping  soil  moist,  78. 
Mulch   preferable  to  cultivation 

for,  79. 
Must   be   protected   from    heat, 

cold,  and  draughts,  78. 
Period  of  blooming,  79. 
Potting,  78. 
Golden  Glow  (Rudbeckia),  hardy 

yellow  flower,  197. 
Golden     Saxatile     Alyssum, 

122. 

Gourds — 

Develop    rapidly   after    making 

root,  133. 

Good  for  covering  fences  or  un- 
sightly buildings,  i$L. 
Liable  to  cutworms,  133. 
Ornamental   feature  of  summer 

garden,  132. 

Seed  sown  early  in  season,  132. 
Gracillima  univittata  Eulalia, 

ornamental  grass,  5- 
Grand    Lilas,    blue    Hyacinths, 

192. 
Grass  walks    a    nuisance  to 

the  gardener,  9. 
Gravel  walks,  construction  of,  9. 
Green  fly,  remedies  for,  248. 
Gruss  an  Teplitz  Rose,  178. 
Guano  as  a  fertiliser,  28. 


H 

Hammock,   view  of   the   garden 

from  the,  4. 
Hanging-baskets — 

How  to  water,  210. 

Manettia  Vine  very  attractive  for, 

136.   m 
Plants  in,    require   more   water 

than  those  on  low  shelves,  214. 
Should  be    securely   hung   with 

copper  wire,  209. 
Thunbergias     valuable    for,    in 

winter,  136. 


Hardy  perennials,  planting  beds 

of,  JO. 

Hardy  plants- 
Moving    and    transplanting  of, 
196. 

Setting    out    in    Southern    and 

Northern  States,  196. 
Hardy  shrubs  and  plants  for 

fall  planting,  196. 
Harmonising  of  tints  in  ar- 
ranging    parti  -  coloured 
beds,  ii. 

Heeling-in,  definition  of,  190. 
Heliotropes,  n,  39,  59,  80,  §*, 
88,  89,  91,  93,  117. 

Care  of,  when  grown  as  house- 
plants,  81. 

Channels  should  be  opened  in 
roots  of,  to  allow  water  to  pass 
in,  210. 

Combined  with  Ageratum,  effect 
of,  81. 

Desirable  bedding  plants,  81. 

Lemoine's  seedlings  exceptional- 
ly large  and  early,  80. 

More  easily  raised  from  seed 
than  from  cuttings,  80. 

Proper  time  for  sowing  the  seed, 
80. 

Secret  of  successful  growing, 
80. 

Should  be  in  front  of  the  sand- 
box, 39. 
Hen  manure  suitable  for  cold 

soils,  23. 
Hepaticas,  256. 

Hibiscus  (Marshmallow),  u,  46, 
58,  103,  107-109,  203. 

Africanus,  hardy  annual,  108. 

An  herbaceous  perennial,  108. 

Beds  of,  ii. 

Blooms  freely  if  not  allowed  to 
seed,  46. 

Chinese,  58. 

Coccinea,  a  tender  perennial, 
108. 

Cultivation  of,  107,  108. 


270 


The  Flower  Garden 


Hibiscus—  Continued. 

Do  not  bear  transplanting  well, 
108. 

Flowers  the  first  season  if  started 
early,  108. 

Giant   Yellow,    partially  hardy, 
108. 

Increase  in  size  yearly,  109. 

Principal  varieties  of,  107. 

Should  be  potted  very  hard,  58. 

Six-year  clumps  superb,  109. 

Supports  for,  109. 

Time  for  planting,  108. 
Hickory     tussock-moth,     de- 
stroying cocoons  of,  204. 
Hints  on  planting  and  trans- 
planting, 54-56. 
Hints  on  potting,  57,  58. 
Hints  on  shifting  plants,  57. 
Hollyhocks,  n,  46, 109,  no,  203. 

Allegheny,  hardy  variety,  no. 

Attacks  of  insects  on,  no. 

Beds  of,  n. 

Planting,  109. 

Require    hilling  up   in  winter, 

1 10. 

Seed  of,  46. 

Sowing  the  seed,  109. 

Suitable  for  effective   grouping, 

109. 
Honeysuckle,  61,  252. 

Layering  valuable  for,  61. 
Hoof-parings,  good  for  the  pe- 
rennial flower-bed,  28. 
Horse  manure,  good  in  clayey 

soil,  23. 

Horsfieldi  Narcissus,  191,  192. 
House-plant  raising  a  most 

fascinating  work,  62. 
House-plants,  a  good   fertiliser 

for,  215. 

Care  of,  in  winter,  208-216. 
Cuttings  of,  easily  rooted,  50. 
Directions  for  handling,  58. 
From  seeds,  62-87. 
Hotbed,  the,  30-37. 

A  cheap  way  of  making  a,  32. 


Ho  tbe  d — Co  n  tin  ued. 

Best  position  for,  31. 

Care  and  attention  of,  36. 

Chicken  netting  for  use  as  screens 
in  the,  37. 

Construction  of  pit  of,  32. 

How  to  construct  a,  31-34. 

Screens  for,  36. 

Treatment  of  plants  in  the,  33,34. 
Hotbeds,  airing  and  protecting, 

253. 
Hotbed-sashes,  cost  of,  31. 

Proper  size  of,  31. 
Hot- water   bath,  gives   better 
results  than  insecticides,  250. 
Hyacinths,  38,  170, 188,  189,192. 

Alba  superbissima,  192. 

Baroness  Van  Thuyl,  192. 

Czar  Peter,  192. 

Grand  Lilas,  192. 

Hints  on  selecting,  192. 

Ida,  192. 

La  Grandesse,  192. 

Norma  gigantea,  192. 

Planting,  distance  apart  for,  188. 

Roi  des  Beiges,  192. 

Should  be  planted  alone,  188. 

Treatment  of,  and  potting  in  the 
fall,  192,  193. 

Use  of  cold-frame  for,  38. 

Varieties  of,  192. 

Wood,  191. 
Hyacinths,  Water,  170. 

Novelty  of,  170. 

Nuisance  of,  in  Florida  rivers, 
170. 

Paris  green  must  not  be  used  in 
water,  170. 

Roots  increase  rapidly,  170. 
Hypericum  Moserianum,  197. 


I 


Iceland  Poppies,  118. 
Ida,  yellow  Hyacinth,  192. 
Impatiens  sultana,  58. 


271 


Indian  Shot,  141. 
Insecticides,  246-252. 
Insects  in  the  Rosebud,  rem- 
edies for,  177. 

Instructions  for  raising  seeds 
and  young  plants  in  flats 
or  boxes,  50. 
Iris,  23,  166,  197. 

Care  required  in  raising  various 

kinds  of,  197. 
Should   be  divided  every   three 

or  four  years,  199. 
Transplanting  of,  196. 
Valuable  for  borders  on  drives 

and  walks,  198. 
See,  also,  Japanese  Iris. 
Italia  Cannas,  15. 
Ivy,    use    of,    for    covering   and 
protecting  walls  in  England, 
128. 

Ivy  Geraniums,  extra  care  re- 
quired to  keep  low  and  stocky, 
78. 


J 


Jackmanni  Clematis,  138. 

Japan  Lilies,  beds  of,  n. 

Japanese  Hop- 
Deserves     to     be     extensively 

grown,  133. 
Female   plant   only  bears  seed, 

133- 
Foliage  very  showy  and  effective, 

133. 

Pays  well  for  care  in  cultivation, 

133- 
Requires     an     elastic     support, 

134- 

Japanese  Iris,  best  place  for  set- 
ting out,  10. 

Has  no  insect  pest,  199. 

Moles  have  a  liking  for  roots  of, 
199. 

Wonderful  colours  and  size  of, 
199. 


Japanese  Morning-glory,  91, 

134- 

Grown  in  pots  by  Japanese,  134. 
Hints  how  to  raise  successfully, 

134,  135- 

Requires  support,  135. 
Should   be   started  in  house  or 

hotbed,  134. 

Japanese  Tassel  Aster,  99. 
June  and  July,  shrubs  and  plants 
that  bloom  in,  237,  239,  240. 

June  Roses  subject  to  insects, 

176. 
Justicia,  93. 

K 

Kaiserin     Augusta     Victoria 

Rose,  178. 

Kerosene  emulsion,  250. 
Kilrnarnock  Willow,  140. 
Krameri  Lily,  182. 


Lady-slipper.     See  Balsams. 
Lady  Washington  Geranium, 

76. 

La  Grandesse  Hyacinth,  192. 
Lantanas,  42,  46,  81-83,  92. 

Description  of,  Si. 

Make  fine  hedgerows,  83. 

May  seed  freely,  46. 

Not   a   desirable   plant   for  the 
house,  82. 

Starting  the  seed,  82. 

Treatment  of,  in  raising,  82. 

Weeping  Lantanas,  81,  83. 

Will  bloom  freely  in  the  house, 

83- 
Larkspur,  excellent  for  rear  beds, 

ii. 
Lavender,  n. 

Lawn,  a  neglected,  amount  of 
labour  involved  in  a,  6. 

Layering,  a  form  of  rooting  cut- 
tings, 61. 


272 


The  Flower  Garden 


Lay  ing  out  flower-beds,  13,14. 
Leaf-mould,  composition  of,  18. 
For  flower-garden,  7. 
For  use  in  boxes,  48. 
How  to  make,  21. 
Where  found,  18. 
Leaves,  an  excellent  protection  to 

plants  in  the  winter,  205. 
Lilies,  9,  ji,  12,   168,  179-184, 

204. 

Auratum  Lily  bulbs,  180. 
Best  time  for  planting,  183. 
Day,  20 1. 
Flame,  183. 
Funkia,  201. 
General   treatment  of  all   kinds 

of,  182. 

Hardy,  planting  of,  183. 
How     Japanese     protect     their 

plants,  1 80. 
Ideal  spot  for,  12. 
Injured  by  exposure  to  air  and 

thawings,  180,  181. 
Japanese,  181,  182. 
Krameri,  182. 
Left  to  themselves,  growth  of, 

i83; 

Longiflorum,  182. 
Plantain,  201. 
Washingtonianum,  182. 
Lilium    album,   description  of, 

181. 

Lilium  auratum,  180. 
Lilium  Brownii,  182. 
Lilium  candidum,  180. 
Must  be  planted  early,  180. 
Soil  required  for,  180. 
Lilium    giganteum,   the   most 
wonderful  and   tallest  variety 
of  Lily,  182. 
Lilium    rubrum,    most    easily 

grown,  1 8 1. 
Lilium    speciosum,    exceeding 

beauty  of,  181. 

Lily-bed,  the  hardy,  179-184. 
As  a  garden  investment,  179. 
Building  the  bed,  180. 


Lily-bed — Continued. 

Fibrous-rooted    plants,     hardy 
shrubs,    and   perennials    give 
best  results,  179. 
Selecting  a  site  for,  1 80. 
Lily,  Pond- 
Process  of  germination  of,  169. 
Sowing  the  seed  of,  169. 
Lily-pond — 

Cementing  a  pond,  166,  167. 

Constructing  a,  165. 

Diverting  a  small  stream  for  a, 

166. 
How  to  keep  clear  and  sweet, 

172. 

Objections  raised  to,  171. 
Renewing  water  in,  165. 
Zinc  tubs  for  small  water-ponds, 

167. 
Liquid  manure,  how  to  prepare, 

26,  27. 

How  to  use,  28. 

Little  Dorrit  Ageratum,  102. 
Loam,  the  best  garden  soil,  17. 
Longiflorum  Lily,  182. 
Lotus,  1 68. 

Lotus  Peliorhynchus,  92. 
Lychnis,    herbaceous  perennials, 

198. 

Semperflorens  plenissima,  198. 
Lychnis  Chalcedonica,  198. 

M 

Madame     (iunther     Nastur- 
tium, in. 
Manettia  Vine,  93,  136. 

Blooms  more   freely  when  pot- 
bound,  137. 

Daily  watering  required,  136. 
Satisfactory  for  winter  blooming, 

136- 

Time  for  repotting,  137. 
Manure,   preparation  of,  for  the 

garden,  24. 
Proper   use   of,   in   the   hotbed, 

32- 


8lpfmbettcai 


373 


Manure-barrel ,  how  to  handle, 

26,  27. 
Manure-water,  how  to  prepare, 

25,  26. 
Manures,  cow,  horse,  hen,  and 

sheep,  23. 

Quantity  necessary  for  use,  29. 
Maples,  flowering,  63. 
Marguerite    Carnations,   best 

for  outdoor  blooming,  70. 
Marshmallow.     See  Hibiscus. 
Maurandya,  46,  90,  91,  93,  135, 

246. 

A  beautiful  vine    for    window- 
boxes,  90. 
Height  of  plant  and  colours  of 

flowers,  135. 
Requires  no   special  treatment, 

135- 
Seed  of,  gathered  without  harm 

to  vine,  46. 

Suitable    for  trellises,    window- 
boxes,  and  vases,  135. 
Time  for  sowing  seed,  135. 
May,   trees,    shrubs,    and    plants 

that  bloom  in,  235,  236. 
Mealy  bug,  remedy  for  the,  on 

house-plants,  248. 
Metake  Bambusa,  171. 
Milk-and-Wine  Lily,  161.    See 

also  Crinum  fimbriatum. 
Miranda  Petunia,  84. 
Mixed  seeds,  variety  of,  62. 
Moisture-loving    plants,  best 

place  for  setting  out,  10. 
Moles,  liking  of,  for  roots  of  Jap- 
anese Iris,  199. 
Netting  and  traps  for,  199. 
Monkshood,  n,  46,  122. 

Excellent  for  rear  beds,  n. 
Montbretias — 

Desirable  for  cut  flowers,  153. 
Keep  well    through   winter    in 

flour  sacks,  187. 
May  be    grown    in    corners  of 

flower-bed,  153. 
Multiply  rapidly,  153. 


Montbretias—  Continued. 

Resemble  Gladioli  in  flower  and 

foliage,  153. 

Moonlight  Nasturtium,  m. 
Morning-Glories,    42,   44,   46, 

91,  94,  252,  256. 
Reaching  the   roof  by   strings, 

94'. 

Require  little  root  room,  94. 

Seed  of,  46. 

See    also    Japanese     Morning- 

Glories. 

Mountain  Fringe,  129. 
Mrs.  Edward  Andre  Clematis, 

138. 

Mrs.  Robert  Perry  Rose,  178. 
Muck   or  peat,  preparation  of, 

18,  19. 
Myosotis,  119. 


N 

Narcissi,  38,  188,  191,  192. 
Alba  plena,  119. 
All  species  are  hardy,  191. 
Emperor  and  Empress,  191,  192. 
Giant  Welshman,  192. 
Horsfieldi,  191,  192. 
Odoratus,  191. 
Paper  white,  192. 
Planting  of  various  varieties  o^ 

190. 

Poeticus,  191. 
Treatment  of,  and  potting  in  the 

fall,  192,  193. 
Trumpet  varieties  of,  192. 
Use  of  cold-frame  for,  38. 
Varieties  of,  191,  192. 
Von  Sion,  191,  192. 
Nasturtiums,  15,  45,  92,  94,  96, 

no,  in,  252. 

Chameleon,  new  variety,  in. 
Dwarf  varieties   very   attractive 

for  Canna-beds,  no. 
Flourish  well  in  elevated  beds, 

III. 


274 


The  Flower  Garden 


Nasturtiums — Continued. 

Grown  on  strings  and  trellises, 

in. 
Madame  Gunther,  mixed  variety, 

in. 

Make  excellent  edges  for  beds,  15. 
Moonlight,  pale   cream  variety, 

in. 

Require  abundant  root  room,  94. 
Saving  seed  of,  45. 
Sunlight,  new  variety,  in. 
Tall    varieties     make     effective 

beds,  in. 

Trailers,  not  climbers,  in. 
Will  not  bloom  well  in  shade, 

no. 

Nicotianas,  how  to  sow,  35. 
Nine-foot  flower-beds,  15. 
Niobe   Antirrhinum,  for  bed- 
ding, 98. 

Norma  gigantea  Hyacinth,  192. 
Northern  exposure,   combina- 
tion of  flowers    suitable    for 
window-boxes,  93,  94. 
Nymphseas,  168-170 

Hardy,  for  planting  in  soil  of 

Lily-pond,  168. 

Varieties  of,  suitable  for  amateur 
cultivation,  169. 


o 

Odds  and  ends,  chapter  of,  245- 

252. 

Odoratus  Narcissus,  191. 
Orchid-flowered  Cannas,  treat- 
ment of,  in  winter,  186. 
Oriental  Poppies,  118. 
Ornamental    foliage    plants, 

beds  of,  4. 

From  seeds,  141-146. 
Ornamental  grasses,  5. 
Nine-foot  bed  of,  16. 
On  lawns  recommended,  16. 
Ornithpgalum  arabicum,  192. 
Requires  high  temperature,  194. 


Ostrich  Feather  Aster,  99. 
Otaheite  Orange,  58. 
Oxalis,  Summer-blooming — 

Advantage    of    precocity    of 

growth,  154. 
Bermuda,  195. 
Desirable  for  borders,  154. 
Extensively  grown  in  parks  and 

public  gardens,  154. 
Good  substitute  for  other  plants 

that  have  failed  to  come  up, 

154. 

Hints  on  raising,  195. 
How  to  buy  and  set,  154. 
Most  easily  raised  of  all  bulbous 

plants,  154. 
Rapid  growth  of,  154. 


Pseonia.    See  Peony. 

Pansies,  10,  18,  23,  25,  34,  37, 

41,  44,  53,  67, 8 1,  84,  85,  112- 

118,  205,  206,  253. 
Aurora,  116. 

Best  place  for  planting,  10. 
Cold  weather,   care  of,  during, 

112,  113. 

Daily  care  of,  253. 
Fungoid    disease    and   mildew, 

remedy  for,  115. 
Germination,  period  of,  112. 
Giant  Gassier,  116. 
Giant  Trimardeau,  216. 
How  to  carry  Pansy  bed  through 

winter,  116,  117. 
How  to  raise  sturdy  plants,  1 12. 
In  the  cold-frame,  37. 
Planting,  best  place  for,  115. 
Seeds,  fresh,  every  year  for  best 

varieties,  116. 
Snow  Queen,  116. 
Soot  as  a  fertiliser  for,  25. 
Sowing  in  cold-frame  or  hotbed, 

112. 

Special  mixtures  of  seeds,  116. 


Pansies — Continued. 

Spring,  treatment  of  roots  in  the, 

"3- 

Time  for  sowing  seed,  112. 
Transplanting,  113. 
Watering  beds  of,  114. 
Pansy -bed,  the,  112-119. 

Proper  soil  for,  18. 
Pansy-seed— 

Should  be  grown  by  a  specialist, 

44. 

The  best  is  the  cheapest,  41. 
Papa  Canna,  15. 
Paper  White  Narcissus,  192. 
Paris  green,  100,  170,  172,  177, 

247, 249. 

Paris  green  solution,  250. 
Parti-coloured  beds  of  flow- 
ers, arrangement  of,  n. 
Pelargonium  Geraniums — 
Cuttings  of,  for  new  plants,  77. 
Time  for  blooming,  77. 
Very   satisfactory    when    raised 

from  seed,  77. 
Pennisetum    Ruppellianum, 

16. 
Peonies,  9,   n,  179,  200,  201, 

204,  206. 

Best  soil  and  location  for,  200. 
Raised  beds  of,  n. 
Peony  Aster,  99. 
Peony -beds,  should   be  heavily 
mulched  with  manure  in  the 
fall,  201. 
Perennial -beds,    must  be  well 

rounded  up,  204. 

Perennials,  benefited  by  re- 
moval of  withered  flowers, 
46. 

Hardy,  grouping  of,  in  flower- 
beds, 10. 

Perfection  Aster,  99. 
Perpetuals,  hardy,  176. 
Petunias,  9,  35,  42,  45,  58,  83- 

85,  93,  96,  117- 
Bloom  freely  in  the  house,  85. 
Burpee's  Defiance,  84. 


Petunias — Continued. 

Double  variety  more  suitable  for 
5,  vases,  and  bedding  out, 


Giant  of  California,  84. 
Growing  plants  of,  from  seed, 

How  to  distinguish  the  finer  va- 
rieties, 85. 

How  to  sow  seed  of,  35. 
Improvement  in  growth  of,  the 

last  few  years,  83. 
Instructions  for  raising,  84. 
Miranda,  84. 
Poor  or  inferior  plants  should  be 

removed,  85. 

Potting  and  caring  for,  85. 
Young  plants  require  great  care, 

84. 

Phacelia,  96. 
Phlox  Drummondi,  n,  16,  42, 

91,  96,  119. 
Beds  of,  ii. 

Border  of  dwarf  variety,  119. 
Germination  of  seed,  119. 
Phlox  subulata,  border    plants 

of,  8. 
Pinks,  grow  best  from  self-sown 

seed,  45. 
Plant  enemies,  increase  of,  246, 

247. 

Plant  growing,  failures  in,  58. 
Plant  lice,  or  green  fly,  remedies 

for,  248. 

Plantain  Lily,  201. 
Planting  seed,  34-36. 
Plants- 
Blooming    season    of    various, 

234-244. 

For  winter  blooming  should  not 
be  exposed  to  chilly  nights, 
208. 

How  to  treat  when  frozen,  213. 
Learning  to  keep,  254. 
Method  of  shifting  and  bedding 

out,  51. 
Need  room  to  develop,  253. 


276 


The  Flower  Garden 


Plants —  Con  tin  ued. 

No  more  should  be  raised  than 

there  is  room  for,  253. 
Proper  breathing  of,  211. 
Protecting  from  cold  and  sun, 

204,  205. 

Protection  for  tall  ones,  206. 
Received  by  mail,  treatment  of, 
before  being  put  in  window- 
boxes,  95. 
Saving   seed  and    giving   away 

cuttings,  254. 
Should  have  room  to  breathe  and 

grow,  208. 
Sudden   change  of  temperature 

should  be  avoided,  212. 
Support  should  be  given  to  such 

as  need  it,  212. 
Transplantation  of,  in   the  fall, 

196. 

Treatment  of,  for  winter  bloom- 
ing, 51. 

Wintering  of,  196. 
Poa,  an  edible  food  of  the  Sand- 
wich Islands,  149. 
Pond  Lily,  169. 
Poeticus  Narcissus,  191. 
Poeticus  ornatus   Narcissus, 

191. 

Polyanthus,  191. 
Poppies,  44,  117-119*  170. 
Hunnemannia  fumariaefolia,  118. 
Iceland,  118. 
Oriental,  118. 
Shirley,  117. 
Should  not  be  grown  too  closely, 

118. 

Value  of  seed  from,  44. 
Poppies,  Water,  170,  171. 

Attractiveness  of,  171. 
Poppy -seed,    sowing    in    the 

Pansy-bed,  117. 

Porches,  Thunbergias  valuable 
for  covering  foundations  of, 
136. 

Pot-bound  plants,  how  to  re- 
move, 57. 


Potting,  hints  on,  57,  58. 
Potting-soil,  always  keep  ready 
for  use,  40. 

How  to  obtain,  21. 
Primroses,  63,  86,  87,  246. 

Blooming  time,  86. 

General  treatment  of,  86. 

Potting,  86. 

Primula  obconica  grown  in  shal- 
low dishes,  87. 

Raising  from  seed,  87. 

Receptacles  for,  86. 

Repeated  shifting  aids  blooming, 
86. 

Root  room  necessary,  86. 
Primula  obconica,  87. 
Primulas,  48,  58. 
Princess  Caroline  Ageratum, 

10 1,  IO2. 


9 

Queen  Charlotte  Cannas,  15. 
Queen  of  the  North  Antirrhi- 
num, 98. 

R 

Radicans  Bignonia,  139,  140. 
Ragged   Robin   (Viscaria),    red, 

scented  flower,  198. 
Ramona  Clematis,  138. 
Red  Spider,  remedy  for,  248. 
Repotting,  meaning  of  term,  56. 
Repotting    house-plants     in 

summer,  40. 
Rex  Begonia,  66. 
Rhododendrons,  protection  of, 

in  Northern  winters,  206. 
Ricinus  (Castor-oil  Plant),  4,  g, 

14,   15,    18,  29,    35,  46,  121, 

144,  150,  200. 
Beds  of,  5. 
Good  background  for  low  shrubs, 

144. 


277 


Ricinus—  Continued. 
In  flower-beds,  14,  15. 
Most  tropical  looking  plant  in 

cultivation,  144. 
Position  of,  in  the  hotbed,  35. 
Proper  soil  for,  18. 
Seed  of,  46. 
Seeds  should  be  started  in  house 

pots,  144. 
Soil   must  be  heavily  manured 

and  well  watered,  144. 
Transplanting,  144. 
Zanzibar  varieties  best,  144. 
Rockwork,    Thunbergias     valu- 
able for  covering,  136. 
Roi  des  Beiges,  a  red  Hyacinth, 

192. 
Rose,  the,  need  of  constant  care 

of,  247. 
Rose- bed,  care  of  the  Summer, 

173-178. 

Choice  of  plants  for  the,  178. 
Cutting  and  pruning,  175*  I7& 
Hardy   Perpetuals,    caring    for, 

176. 
Insect  enemies  of  Roses,  176, 

177. 

Manuring,  175. 
Planting  the  bed,  175. 
Soil  suitable  for,  175. 
Sunny,  protected  situation  neces- 
sary, 175. 
Treatment  of  Roses  that  refuse 

to  bloom,  176. 

Rose-bug,  destruction  of,  249. 
Rose-bugs  and  beetles,  remedy 

for.  177. 

Rose  Campion  (Lychnis),  herb- 
aceous perennial,  198. 
Rose-cuttings,  handling  of,  59. 
Rose-garden,  design  for,  12, 13. 
Rose-hopper  or  thrips,  on  Rose 

leaves,  remedy  for,  177,  248. 
Rose  of  Sharon  (Althea) — 
Method  of  blooming,  202. 
Winter  care  of  young  and  old 
trees,  202. 


Rose-slugs,  how  to  get  rid  of, 

177.  248. 
Rose,  June,  173,  174. 

Cultivation  and  pruning  of,  173, 

174. 
Hardy  climbers,    treatment   of, 

174. 

Insects,  a  pest  to,  176. 
Labor  of  caring  for,  objectionable 

to  some,  173. 
Mulching  in  the  fall,  174. 
New  wood  should  be  encouraged, 

174. 

Thorniness  of,  173. 
Winter  protection  of,  174. 
Rose,  Tea,  174,  175. 

Excellent  for  summer  Rose-bed, 

174. 
Insects,     generally    free    from, 

176. 

Mildew,  how  to  avoid  and  rem- 
edy for,  177. 
Potting,  175. 
Transplanting  into  open  ground, 

175- 
Roses,  3,   17,   18,   23,  25,  27, 

37,139,  58,  59,  61,  173-178. 

252. 

American  Beauty,  178. 
Bride,  178. 
Climbing,  winter  protection  of, 

204. 

Gruss  an  Teplitz,  178. 
Kaiserin       Augusta      Victoria, 

178. 
Kept  in  house  in  winter,  how  to 

keep  free  from  pests  and  in- 

sects,  178. 

Mrs.  Robert  Perry,  178. 
North  winds  disastrous  to,  3. 
Proper  soil  for,  17. 
Soot  a  good  fertiliser  for,  25. 
Virginia  R.  Coxe,  178. 
Rubber    gloves    for    garden 

work,  250. 
Rubber-plants*  rooting  and  care 

of,  60. 


278 


The  Flower  Garden 


Rubber  sprinklers,  indispens- 
able for  watering  hanging- 
baskets,  214. 

Rudbeckia,  197. 

Ruffled  Giant  Petunia,  84. 


S.  A.  Nutt  Geranium,  for  south 

and  west  window-boxes,  91. 
St.   John's   Wort    (Hypericum 
Moserainum),  a  perennial,  197. 
Salt  pork,  for  keeping  moles  from 

Iris  roots,  200. 
Sal  via  (Flowering  Sage),  5,   14, 

15,  18,  29,  46,  120. 
Bonfire,  121. 
Clara  Bedman,  121. 
Desirable  for  bedding  purposes, 

120. 

Do  well  in  partial  shade,  120. 
Most  congenial  soil,  120. 
Root  readily  in  wet  sand,  121. 
Scarlet,  14,  15. 
Seed  germination,  121. 
Splendens,  5,  121. 
Subject    to    red    spider  in  the 

house,  120. 

When  to  start  seed,  120. 
White-flowered  variety,  121. 
Salvia  patens,  121. 

Seldom  seen  in  gardens,  122. 
Wonderful  blue  shade  of,  122. 
Salvias— 

Proper  soil  for,  18. 
Seed  freely,  46. 
San  Salvador  Cobaea,  130. 
Sandy    white    or  grey,   best  for 

potting,  21. 

Sand-box,  the,  38-40. 

A  fascinating  spot,  39. 

How  to  make  one,  38. 

Summer  storage  of  plants  in,  38. 

Saxatile,  golden,  122. 

Desirable  for  edging  or  rock- 
work,  122. 


Scilla,  189,  190,  192,  193. 
Scillas  and  Crocuses— 

A  pretty  way  to  grow,  190. 

Beds  of,  189. 

Lengthening    of     flower-stems, 

190. 

Protection  of,  189. 
Screens     for     the     hotbed, 

36. 

Scythe-boxes  make  good  win- 
dow-boxes, 94. 
Seed,  various  annuals  from,  98- 

iii. 
Seedlings,  blossom  in  the  natural 

course,  62. 

Seed-planting,  34-36. 
Seeds,    coarse  varieties,  how   to 

sow,  49.  ^ 
Fine  varieties   should  be   sown 

broadcast,  49. 
House   treatment  of  some   fine 

varieties,  48. 

Labelling  and  storing,  47. 
Need  little  light  while  germinat- 
ing, 49. 
Protection    of,    in    their    early 

stages,  30. 

Purchasing  of,  41-47. 
Should  be  gathered  when  ripe. 

Starting  in  flats,  48-52. 

Temperature  and  period  of  ger- 
mination, 32. 

Time  for  germination  of,  228- 
232. 

Uselessness  of  buying  cheap  va- 
rieties of,  42. 

Vitality  of  some  kinds  of,  42. 

What  kinds  to  save,  43,  44. 

Where  to  buy,  42. 

Where  to  plant  coarse,  35. 
September,  shrubs,   plants,  and 
bulbs  that  bloom  during,  242, 

243- 

Seteria  magnia,  16. 

Shade-loving  plants,  an  excel- 
lent place  for,  245,  246. 


&lpi)abettcal  f nfcej:        279 


Sheep    manure,    desirable   for 

house-plants,  23. 
Shell  Flowers,  153. 
Shelves  for  flowers  in  win- 
ter, 208. 
Should    be    securely    fastened, 

209. 

Shelter,  proper,  for  flowers,  3. 
«•  Shifting,"    meaning  of  term, 

56. 
Shirley  Poppies  in  the  Pansy - 

bed,  117. 

Shrubbery,  planning  a,  12. 
Shrubs,  blooming  season  of,  234- 

244. 
Spring-planted,  should  be  moved 

when  dormant,  196,  197. 
Shrubs  and  plants,  hardy,  for 

fall  planting,  196. 
Sir  Watkin  Narcissus,  or  Giant 

Welshman,  191,  192. 
Skirts,  suitable,  for  working  in 

the  garden,  257. 
Slop-water    should    not    be 

used   for  foliage   plants, 

27. 

Snapdragon.    See  Antirrhinums. 
Snow  Queen  Pansy,  116. 

Cost  of  seed  of,  42. 
Snowdrops,    a   pretty    way   to 

grow,  190,  191. 
Soapsuds  a   good   fertiliser, 

27. 

Sod,  preparing  garden,  8. 
Sod  borders,  involve  too  much 

care  in  flower-beds,  9. 
Soil,     preparation     of,     for     the 

flower-garden,  7. 
Replacing,  difficulties  of,  20. 
Unsuitable,  cause  of  many  fail- 
ures in  raising  plants,  19. 
Soils,  17-22. 

Solarium  Jasminoides,  93. 
Soot  as  a  fertiliser  for  flow- 
ers, 25. 
South  slope,  the  ideal  situation 

for  a  garden,  3. 


Southern  exposure,  combina- 
tion of  flowers  suitable  for 
window-boxes,  91,  92. 

Souvenir  de  Charles  Turner 
Geranium,  91. 

Spade,  results  secured  by  use  of, 
in  making  flower-beds,  7. 

Spading  flower-beds,  8. 

Speciosum  Lilies,  exceeding 
beauty  of,  181. 

Speciosum  roseum  Lily,  181. 

Speciosum  rubrum  Lily,  181. 

Sphagnum  moss,  for  wrap- 
ping Rubber-plants'  roots  in, 
60. 

Spiraea  filipendula,  198. 

Spiraea  Japonica,  198. 

Spiraeas- 
Anthony  Waterer,  197. 
Desirable  for  fall  or  spring  plant- 
ing, 196. 
Filipendula,  197. 
Garden,  197. 
Mealy  bug  on,  248. 
Van  de  Houttei,  197. 

Spring,  treatment  of  foots  and 
seeds  in  the,  113,  196. 

Spring-planted  shrubs,  196. 

Stakes  for  house  -  plants, 
40. 

Stocking  window-boxes,  95. 

Subsoil,  removing  for  flower- 
beds, 7. 

Sulpho-tobacco  soap,  a  remedy 
for  plant  lice,  248. 

Sulphur,  for  mildew  on  Pansies, 

JI5- 

Flower  of,  for  dusting  over  rose- 
leaves  to  prevent  mildew, 
177. 

Summer,  shrubs,  plants  and 
vines  that  bloom  all  the,  243, 
244. 

Sunflower,  California,  197. 

Sunlight  Nasturtium,  HI. 

Sun-loving    plants,    care    of, 

211. 


i8o 


The  Flower  Garden 


Supports  for  window-boxes, 

how  to  make,  94,  95. 
Surface-soil,    treatment  of,    for 

flower-beds,  7. 

Swanley  Blue  Ageratum,  102. 
Sweet  Alyssum,  5,  9,  14,  46, 

96,    121,    122. 

Little   Gem,  edging  for  flower- 
beds, 5,  14. 
Sows  its  own  seed,  46. 
Sweet-peas,  46,  122-124,  252, 
253- 

Bewildering  variety  of,  124. 

Culture  of,  122. 

Daily  care  of,  253. 

Habit  of  climbing,  123. 

Must  not  be  permitted  to  seed, 

46. 

Planting,  122. 
Sowing  seed  of,  best  time  for, 

122. 

Watering,  method  of,  123. 
Wire     supports    necessary    for 
growth,  123. 


Tea-roses,  37. 

Freer  from   insects    than  June 

Roses,  176. 
In  the  cold-frame,  37. 
Temperature,  a  sudden  change 
of,    should    be   avoided  with 
flowers,  212. 
Thawing  out  frozen    plants, 

213. 
Thermometer,  necessary  for  the 

hotbed,  35. 
Thunbergia  (Black-eyed  Susan), 

46,  47,  90,  92,  93,  136. 
Admirable  for  basket  or  bracket 

plants  in  winter,  136. 
Grow  freely  from  seed,  136. 
Red  spider  attacks,  136. 
Requires  sunny  situation,  136. 
Seed  may  be  gathered  from,  46. 


Thunbergia— Continued. 

Valuable  for  covering  low  trel- 
lises, 136. 
Tigridias,    beautiful    in    colour, 

153- 

Ephemeral  flowers  of,  153. 
Peculiar  leaf  of,  153,  154. 
Potting  and  bedding  out,  153. 
Tobacco,  use  of,  for  killing  plant- 
lice,  248. 

Tom    Thumb   Ageratum,    de- 
sirable for  edgings,  101. 
Tools  necessary  for  the  suc- 
cessful gardener,  245. 
Top-soil,  removal  of,  in  making 

flower-beds,  7. 
Transplanting,  instructions  for, 

54-. 

Seedlings,  50. 
The  proper  time  for,  54- 
Transplanting  and  repotting, 

Trailing  Fuchsia,  91. 
Trapping  moles  in  Iris-beds, 

200. 

Trees,  blooming  season  of,  234- 

244. 
Trellises,    Thunbergias   valuable 

for  covering,  136. 
Trumpet  Vine,  139. 
Tuberoses,  do  well  in  Gladiola- 

bed,  164. 
Double  Pearl,  blooms  but  once, 

163,  164. 
Must  be  started  in  a  warm  place, 

163. 

Plenty  of  water  required,  163. 
Potting,  163. 
Tulips,  1 88,  189,  193. 
Neglected  beds  of,  189. 
Planting,  distance  and  depth  for, 

1 88. 
Plants  of  same  height  and  season 

should  be  set  together,  189. 
Storing  away,  189. 
Twelve-foot  flower-beds,  14, 


u 

Umbrella=plants,    60,    73,   74, 

1 68. 

How  to  start  root,  60. 
Unsuitable  soil,  cause  of  many 

failures  in  raising  plants,  19. 
Urns,   Thunbergias  valuable  for, 

136. 

V 

Van  Houttei,  white  Spiraea,  197. 
Verbenas,  44,  45.  92,  96,  124- 

127. 
Colours  should  be  kept  separate, 

124. 

Enjoy  rock-work,  125. 
Thrive  in  any  good  soil,  125. 
Treatment  of  seed  before  plant- 
ing, 124. 

Vernon  Begonia,  66. 
Vincas  (Periwinkles),  15,  16,  46, 

94,  125. 

As  border  for  Canna-bed,  125. 
Bloom  more  freely  if  not  allowed 

to  seed,  46. 
Foliage  and  flowers,  colour  and 

texture  of,  125. 

Moisture,  fair  amount  of,  neces- 
sary, 126. 

White-flowered,  15,  16. 
Worthy     extensive    cultivation, 

125. 
Vines,  128-140. 

Prejudice  against,  128. 
Time  for  planting,  53. 
Training  of,  over  sides  of  the 

sand-box,  39. 
Walls      indestructible       when 

covered  with,  128. 
Violets,  23,  37. 
Dog-tooth,  191. 
Protection  of  cold-frame  for,  37, 

38. 

Virginia  Creeper,  128. 
Virginia  R.  Coxe  Rose,  178. 


Virgin's  Bower,  137. 
Viscaria     (Ragged     Robin),     a 

scented  garden  flower,  198. 
Von  Sion  Narcissus,  191,  192. 
Vulcan  Begonia,  66. 


w 

Walks,  garden,  construction  of, 

9- 

Washingtonianum  Lily,  182. 

Water  gardens,  104. 

Water  Hyacinths,  170. 

Water,  standing,  injures  roots  of 
all  plants,  204. 

Water-supply    for    elevated 
bed,  5. 

Watering  seeds  in  flats,  50. 

Watering  soil  in  boxes,  49. 

Watering-pot,  should   not   be 
used  in  sowing  seed,  36. 

Weeping  Lantana,  81,  83.   See, 
also,  Lantana. 

White,  the  most  valuable  colour 
in  the  garden,  n. 

Wild  Cucumber,  90,  91,  93,  96, 

132,  252. 

A  beautiful  background  for  Ge- 
raniums in  the  window-box, 
90. 

Willow,  Kilmarnock,  140. 

Window-boxes,    inside,    best 

support  for,  94. 
Cheap  and  available  boxes,  95, 

96. 

Combination  of  plants  suitable 
for  a  southern  exposure,  91, 
92;  for  eastern  exposure,  92, 
93 ;  for  northern  exposure,  93, 
94. 

Economical  arrangement  of,  96. 
Geraniums    best    for    south   or 

west  boxes,  91. 

How  to  care  for  and  raise  flow- 
ers in,  97. 
Longevity  of,  96. 


282 


The  Flower  Garden 


W  indow-boxes — Continued. 
Plants  in,  require  watering  every 

day,  253. 

Preserving  during  winter,  95. 
Quantity  of  plants  necessary  for, 

89,  90. 
Stocking,  95. 
Two  boxes  necessary    for    the 

season,  90. 
Window-boxes,  outside,  88- 

97- 
Add  to  cheerfulness  of  rooms, 

88. 
Plants  best  suited    to  the  light 

should  be  selected  for,  88. 
Proper  construction  of,  89. 
Suitable  plants  for,  88. 
Supply  of  water  necessary,  89. 
Window-sashes,  old,  for  use  in 

making  hotbeds,  32. 
Winter  Aconite,  191. 


Winter,  care  of  old  and  young 

trees  in  the,  202. 
Winter  protection  of  flowers 

and  shrubs,  203-207. 
Wire  netting,  judicious  use  of, 

in  the  flower  garden,  251. 
For  Moles,  199. 
Wood  Hyacinths,  191. 
Wooden   frames,   best  results 

from,    as    winter    protectors, 

203. 
Work-table,    indispensable     in 

cultivating  a  garden,  39. 
Worthless  seeds,  42. 


Zanzibar  varieties  of  Ricinus, 

best  for  cultivation,  144. 
Zonal e    Geraniums,    time   for 
blooming,  77. 


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